Part 7 (1/2)
Squab with Fig Foie Gras
Squab, also known as a young domestic pigeon, will soon be a popular dish at Downton Abbey once the second world war erupts. During that war, while other meat is rationed, pigeon meat will be left alone. Until that happens, delicate and delicious (not to mention sumptuous) dishes like this would impress any visiting dignitaries, as squab is considered a delicacy.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
For Squabs 4 whole squabs 8 cloves garlic 4 bay leaves 2 cups sea salt 4 cups duck fat 12 cup brewed Darjeeling tea, at room temperature 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter, at room temperature For Fig Foie Gras 112 pounds slightly chilled foie gras, veins removed Coa.r.s.e sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 6 slices white bread, cut into rounds 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 4 black mission figs, halved 2 medium onions, finely chopped 12 cup port 1 orange, juiced 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar 1 tablespoon brown sugar 12 teaspoon orange zest For squabs: Remove the b.r.e.a.s.t.s and legs from each squab. Crush together the garlic and bay leaves, and mix together in a large bowl with the sea salt. Pack the squab legs in the salt mixture and cure for 45 minutes to 1 hour, then lightly rinse under cold water. Place the legs and duck fat in a large saucepan, bring to a simmer, and cook until the legs are tender. Remove from fat and allow to cool.
Pour brewed tea and b.u.t.ter in a food processor and blend; then place b.u.t.ter mixture in a medium-sized Ziploc bag with the duck b.r.e.a.s.t.s.
Bring a large saucepan of water to no less than 135F and no more than 140F (do not cook above 140F). Put the Ziploc bag with the squab b.r.e.a.s.t.s in the warmed water, and poach until medium rare. Remove b.r.e.a.s.t.s from bag, then roast them skin-side down until crispy, about 510 minutes.
For fig foie gras: Line a warmed platter with paper towels. Pull apart the 2 lobes of foie gras. Cut each lobe into 1-inch sections, then score the top of each section. Season with sea salt and pepper. Sear the sections in a dry pan for 2530 seconds per side. Remove sections to platter.
Lower heat to medium-low and remove a small amount of the duck fat. Place duck fat in a small skillet and fry the bread in fat until brown, about 23 minutes per side. Remove fat from pan, then coat with olive oil. Briefly brown the figs, then add onions and cook together for 35 minutes. Mix together port, juice from 12 an orange, and balsamic vinegar. Use mixture to deglaze the pan, cooking mixture down for 23 minutes. Add b.u.t.ter, white sugar, brown sugar, orange zest, salt, and pepper to complete the sauce.
Gently place one piece of foie gras on each individual toast. Top with figs, then drizzle with port sauce. Serve with squab.
Etiquette Lessons The Baronne Staffe, the be-all and end-all of French etiquette, warns hosts to never invite people richer than themselves. After all, it would be the host's duty to serve food and wines on the level to which the guests are accustomed, which, for some (not the Crawleys), would be more difficult than others. Fortunately, this dish is worthy of even the greatest of dignitaries.
Roasted Rosemary Cornish Game Hen
Don't let the name fool you - this hen is not actually a game bird, but a type of domestic chicken. Originating from the county of Cornwall, one of the poorest areas of the United Kingdom, the Cornish game hen would be a familiar sight to both the aristocrats and the staff of Downton Abbey. (Whether the staff ever had the chance to try this dish is another story.) Nonetheless, this incredibly small bird was considered a delicacy, and would be eaten with great aplomb at a formal dinner.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
4 Cornish game hens 14 cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 lemons, quartered 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 20 cloves garlic 13 cup apple juice 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth 23 cup dry white wine 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, for garnish Preheat oven to 400F.
Rub hens with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then thoroughly season hens with salt and pepper. Place 2 lemon wedges and 2 teaspoons of chopped fresh rosemary in cavity of each hen.
Lightly pour a tablespoon of olive oil in a large roasting pan, spreading evenly. Place hens in pan, and carefully arrange garlic cloves around each hen. Roast in oven for 30 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350F.
In a medium-sized mixing bowl, stir together apple juice, chicken broth, wine, and remaining olive oil. Pour juice over hens, then roast hens for 3035 minutes or until they are golden and juices run clear. Hens should be basted with pan juices every 1015 minutes.
Place hens on a serving platter. Do not discard pan juices. Lightly cover hens with aluminum foil to trap heat as you transfer pan juices and garlic cloves to a small saucepan. Boil juices and garlic cloves until liquids reduce by half and reach a saucelike consistency, about 710 minutes. To serve, cut hens in half lengthwise and arrange on plate. Spoon sauce over and place garlic around hens. Garnish with rosemary sprigs and serve.
Etiquette Lessons In both Victorian and Edwardian England, it was considered impolite to leave a single piece of uneaten food on the table. Once Service a la Russe was introduced, this was easier to avoid. However, if a piece of food was left behind on a serving plate, it was the host's job to beg a chosen guest to eat it. Not doing so would give the host bad luck, while following through was said to grant the guest good luck. Some particularly superst.i.tious guests would save a choice morsel on their plate for last as a treat, hence the phrase ”saving the best for last.”
Roast Quail with Fig Sauce
As Downton Abbey is the perfect estate for hunting game, it's likely that Lady Mary and her guests would hunt their fair share of quail. Mrs. Patmore would take that quail and make a delicious dish to serve as the fourth or fifth course of the dinner party following the hunt.
YIELDS 46 SERVINGS For Quail 4 cups dry white wine 14 cup plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 bay leaves 12 semi-boneless quail 12 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons vegetable oil For Fig Sauce 12 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 2 cups fresh figs, halved lengthwise, stems discarded 14 cup finely chopped shallots 12 cup celery, chopped 1 cup dry red wine 112 cups veal demi-glace 3 tablespoons fig balsamic vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper In a medium-sized pot, boil white wine, 14 cup of the salt, and bay leaves. Once boiled, set aside and let cool. Submerge quail in this brine and refrigerate for 46 hours.
While brining, make the sauce: Heat 12 cup of the b.u.t.ter in a medium-sized skillet over medium-high heat. Brown figs for 35 minutes. Transfer figs to a medium-sized bowl. Place shallots and celery into skillet and brown for 35 minutes. Add wine and 1012 browned fig halves (reserving the rest) and boil, stirring repeatedly while mas.h.i.+ng figs, until wine is reduced to a syrup, about 5 minutes. Mix in demi-glace and bring mixture to a boil. Whisk in balsamic vinegar. Heat to a rolling boil for 3 minutes, then pour through a fine-mesh sieve into a heavy saucepan, discarding solids. Stir in tarragon, salt, and pepper.
Preheat oven to 350F. While the oven preheats, free quail from fridge and pat dry. Cover quail with melted b.u.t.ter, and salt and pepper generously.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter and 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium-sized skillet over moderately high heat for 45 seconds. One by one, brown half the quail for 1015 minutes, transferring browned quail to a large baking pan, placing them breast-side up. Add remaining b.u.t.ter and oil to skillet, and continue to brown the remaining six quail.
Roast quail until just cooked through, about 1015 minutes. Add reserved browned figs to pan for the last 23 minutes of roasting.
Bring sauce back to a low bubble, stirring in remaining 2 tablespoons of b.u.t.ter until b.u.t.ter is fully incorporated with the sauce. Arrange quail and figs on a large serving platter. Pour leftover pan juices into sauce. Serve sauce on the side in an elegant sauce container.
Etiquette Lessons By the 1920s, it was proper etiquette for the guests to arrive for a function no later than 8 P.M., and for the dinner to be finished no later than 10:30 P.M. With the advent of Service a la Russe, the time for 6-hour dinners of the Victorian era had pa.s.sed. Of course, it helped that, after World War I, many of the courses were cut.
Crispy Roast Duck with Blackberry Sauce
While entertaining guests, the Earl of Grantham might perhaps offer a bit of hunting - should the weather permit. Although foul such as pheasants or wild game like hare might be preferred, should a guest kill a mallard or some other duck, it would not go to waste. Mrs. Patmore could certainly use the duck in a fine recipe such as this one to offer the guests a taste of their own hunting prowess.
YIELDS 23 SERVINGS 12 cup plus 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 14 cup white sugar 13 cup dry white wine: Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc 14 cup orange juice 14 cup lemon juice 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 112 cups frozen blackberries, thawed 134 cups chicken broth 2 tablespoons Cognac 1 tablespoon Vermont maple syrup 4 (5- to 6-ounce) duck breast halves with skin Kosher salt to taste Black pepper to taste Additional blackberries for presentation Melt 12 cup b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium-high heat.
Slowly stir in sugar, stirring until sugar thoroughly dissolves and sauce turns a deep amber color, about 58 minutes. Pour in wine, orange juice, lemon juice, and red wine vinegar. Still stirring, bring entire mixture to boil.
Add berries and chicken broth to sauce; continuing to boil until sauce thickens and is reduced to about 112 cups, stirring occasionally. This will take about 2030 minutes.
Add Cognac and maple syrup. Using the back of a spoon, mash the berries into the mixture. Set aside.