Part 5 (1/2)
Edwardian Chicken Tikka Masala
While it may seem strange to encounter an Indian dish during Edwardian times, this soup arrived on the British culinary scene around 1903, when Edward VII was proclaimed Emperor of India. While there is great debate over the ethics of such a proclamation, the deliciousness of this dish was never in doubt. In fact, former Labor Secretary Robin Cook made headlines in 2001 when he claimed in a speech that Chicken Tikka Masala was ”Britian's true national dish.” Whether this dish is more British than fish and chips or trifle remains to be seen - but if you are a fan of spice, like the daughters of Downton Abbey, don't shy away from this feast!
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
For Chicken 1 cup plain yogurt 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons ground c.u.min 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground red pepper 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, minced 12 teaspoon kosher salt 3 boneless, skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, cut into bite-sized pieces 4 long skewers For Sauce 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 clove garlic, minced 1 jalapeno pepper, minced 1 teaspoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon garam masala 12 teaspoon kosher salt 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce 1 cup heavy cream 14 cup fresh cilantro, chopped In a large metal bowl, thoroughly whisk yogurt, lemon juice, c.u.min, cinnamon, cayenne pepper, black pepper, red pepper, ginger, and 12 teaspoon salt. Stir in chicken, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. The longer you let the chicken marinate, the more tasty it will be.
Preheat a grill for high heat. Whether or not you soak your skewers is up to you. According to Cook's Ill.u.s.trated, it is not necessary.
Lightly grease the grill grate. Skewer chicken, discarding marinade. Grill chicken until juices run clear, approximately 5 minutes per side.
To make sauce: Melt b.u.t.ter over medium-low heat in a large skillet. Saute garlic and jalapeno for 12 minutes. Season with coriander, c.u.min, paprika, garam masala, and 12 teaspoon salt. Let simmer for 35 minutes, then stir in tomato sauce and heavy cream. Simmer on low heat about 2530 minutes or until sauce thickens.
Remove chicken from skewers and add to sauce, thoroughly coating chicken pieces. Simmer for 57 minutes. Remove from skillet and sprinkle with cilantro. If desired, pair with basmati rice and naan. Use garlic naan for extra spice.
Times Gone By One of the most popular books on running a household in Victorian and Edwardian England, Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management, was published in 1861. Among its various cleaning tips, hostess guidelines, and oh-so-proper English recipes could be found a recipe similar to this one above... showing that even the unfairly stereotyped stuffy Victorians didn't mind a bit of spice in their lives!
Crawley Family Chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with Caper Cream Sauce
This dish combines the Edwardian love for capers/salty appetizers in a fancy entree. As this is a relatively inexpensive yet still elegant dish to offer, this would be a staple for dinners at Downton Abbey when no guests are present.
YIELDS 4 SERVINGS.
4 boneless, skinless chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s 2 teaspoons lemon pepper 1 teaspoon sea salt 12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons fresh dill 112 teaspoons garlic powder 12 cup fresh lemon juice 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 clove garlic, diced 12 teaspoon sugar 2 tablespoons dry white wine 12 cup heavy cream 2 tablespoons capers, drained and rinsed Thoroughly season chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with lemon pepper, sea salt, black pepper, dill, and garlic powder. Then marinate chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s for at least 2 hours in lemon juice.
Melt b.u.t.ter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and sugar, and saute for 5 minutes. Then place b.r.e.a.s.t.s in skillet and increase heat to medium-high. Turn chicken frequently until brown, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and cook b.r.e.a.s.t.s for 57 minutes or until b.r.e.a.s.t.s are cooked through. Remove chicken, cover with foil, and keep warm.
Increase heat to high, and whisk in wine and heavy cream. Whisk until mixture is reduced to a saucelike consistency, about 23 minutes. Remove from heat, then stir in capers. Pour sauce over chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s and serve.
Suggested Pairings For a different - yet nonetheless caper-filled - sauce, Mrs. Patmore could serve these chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s with a Cajun remoulade sauce. This remoulade sauce includes mayonnaise, anchovies, capers, mustard, herbs, and pickles.
Chapter 4.
FOURTH AND FIFTH COURSES: JUICY JOINTS AND SUCCULENT STEAKS.
The joint - a large piece of meat cooked in one piece - often offered with vegetables (see Chapter 6), would be cut on a heating rack called a rechaud and then served, followed by sorbets and cigars for the men. The sorbets were meant to cleanse the palate, though with the addition of cigars the men's mouths wouldn't be cleansed for long. Regardless, with the advent of Service a la Russe, the joint would lose its impressiveness. Writer James Austen-Leigh lamented how dinners were suddenly ”carved and handed round by the servants, instead of smoking before our eyes and noses on the table.” That said, these joints and steaks pack quite a powerful punch and would be impressive to the inhabitants of Downton Abbey in their own way!
Seven-Hour Leg of Lamb
This is a cla.s.sic recipe that every experienced cook would have in her repertoire. It's fun to imagine Mrs. Patmore trying to teach patience to an already fl.u.s.tered and somewhat ditzy Daisy. And yet, it is important to note that, whereas this recipe might be traditionally known as ”seven-hour leg of lamb,” the long cook time reflects a time past when animals were tougher and older than the ones we eat today. Nowadays, cooking this leg of lamb for 5 hours is more than enough cooking time.
YIELDS 1012 SERVINGS 1 (5- to 6-pound) lamb leg, bone in 14 cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 4 large onions, quartered 4 large carrots, quartered 1 head of garlic, cloves halved 4 bay leaves 4 teaspoons dried thyme 4 teaspoons rosemary 2 (750 ml) bottles dry white wine 5 pounds large red potatoes, peeled and quartered 4 tomatoes, peeled and chopped Preheat the oven to 400F. Rub lamb with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper.
Layer onions, carrots, garlic, bay leaves, thyme, and rosemary in an ovenproof dutch oven large enough to hold lamb. Place lamb on top of onions and carrots.
Roast lamb uncovered in oven for 45 minutes.
Remove dutch oven with lamb from oven, leaving the oven on. Place dutch oven on top of stove, then slowly pour the white wine over the lamb. Cover and bring mixture to a boil. Return dutch oven with lamb, now covered, to the oven. Roast for an additional 4 hours or until lamb is fork tender but still not falling off its bone. (Please note that the timing will vary depending on the size and age of the lamb, not to mention the pan used.) Be sure to check on lamb every half-hour; if lamb begins to burn, reduce heat.
When lamb is tender, add potatoes and tomatoes to stock. Cover dutch oven and roast until potatoes are cooked through, about 45 minutes1 hour. By now the lamb should be very tender and juicy, literally falling off the bone.
Times Gone By This recipe has indeed been modernized a bit, as few households during the Edwardian era had gas stoves. In fact, most large country estates used a range in lieu of a ”gas cooker” well into and even after World War I. Mrs. Patmore would have been thankful for a basic refrigerator, which back then consisted of two compartments - one for food and the other for ice to keep the food cold. A sub-zero refrigerator (especially one with an icemaker) would have given Mrs. Patmore a heart attack!
Stuffed Leg of Lamb with Almond Fig Sauce
The Sunday roast was a traditional meal served at all middle-cla.s.s homes, offered as proof to both the families themselves and to anyone visiting that they could afford such a feast. This dish, however, is rather fancy for a Sunday roast, and would likely be enjoyed as the roast course at Downton Abbey.
YIELDS 6 SERVINGS.
12 cup prunes, coa.r.s.ely chopped 14 cup dried cranberries 1 tablespoon creme de ca.s.sis liqueur 1 tablespoon red currant jelly 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, minced 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, minced 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 12 teaspoon ground coriander 1 (4-pound) boneless leg of lamb, rolled and tied 1 cup roasted almonds, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped mint 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 12 cup balsamic vinegar 4 tablespoons honey 13 cup figs, thinly sliced 14 cup unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped Preheat oven to 400F.
Combine prunes, cranberries, creme de ca.s.sis, and red currant jelly in a small bowl; set aside. In another small bowl, combine thyme, rosemary, salt, pepper, and coriander and set aside. There is no need to refrigerate.
Roll lamb out on a flat, clean counter or cutting board. Trim off any thick parts so that meat is evenly thick. Cover lamb with 1/2 -34 of the herb mixture.
Add almonds and mint to prune mixture, stirring until thoroughly combined, then evenly spread mixture all over the lamb. Roll up the meat and tie with twine at 1-inch intervals. Cut 1015 slits about 1-inch deep into the top of lamb, inserting chopped garlic into each depression. Rub meat all over with olive oil, sprinkle with remaining herbs.