Part 4 (1/2)
[Ill.u.s.tration: A Bombay Memon.]
Would you learn how the Memon and the Rangari--two of the most notable inhabitants of the city--pa.s.s the waking hours? They are early risers as a rule and are ready to repair to the nearest mosque directly the Muezzin's call to prayer breaks the silence of the approaching dawn, and when the prayers are over they return to a frugal breakfast of bread soaked in milk or tea and then open their shops for the day's business. If his trade permits it, the middle-cla.s.s Memon will himself go a-marketing, taking with him a ”jambil” or Arab-made basket of date-leaves in which to place his vegetables, his green spices, his meat and a little of such fruit as may be in season. His other requisites,--flour, pulse, sugar and mola.s.ses,--come to him in what he calls his ”khata,”--his account with a neighbouring retail-dealer. He is by no means beloved of the Bombay shop-keeper, for he is strict in his observance of the ”sunna” which bids him haggle ”till his forehead perspires, just as it did in winning the money”. The Bombay shop-keeper commences by asking an exorbitant price for his commodities; our Memon retorts by offering the least they could possibly fetch; and the battle between the maximum and the minimum eventually settles itself somewhere about the golden mean, whereupon the Memon hies him homewards as full of satisfaction as Thackeray's Jew. In many cases the mother of the house or the sister, if old, widowed and in the words of the Koran ”despairing of a marriage,” performs the business of shopping and proves herself no less adept than her kinsman at driving a bargain.
About mid-day the Memon or Rangari has his chief meal consisting of leavened or unleavened bread, meat curry or stew or two ”kababs” or fried fish, followed perhaps by mangoes, when in season; and when this is over he indulges in a siesta whenever his business allows of it. The afternoon prayers are followed by re-application to business, which keeps him busy in his shop until 8 or 9 p.m., when he again returns home to a frugal supper of ”khichdi.” It is hardly a satisfying meal, and many young Memons indulge in a fresh collation before retiring to rest. The ”khichdi” finished, the young members of the family set forth for their evening resorts, nor forbear to take such refreshment as the city offers on their journey. They purchase a gla.s.s of ice-cream here, accept a cup of tea offered by a friend there or purchase a tumbler of ”faludah,” which plays the same part in the Mahomedan life of Bombay as macaroni does in the life of the Neapolitan. It consists of rice-gruel, cooked and allowed to cool in large copper-trays and sold at the corners of Mahomedan streets. On receiving a demand, the Faludah-seller cuts out a slice from the seemingly frozen ma.s.s, puts it into a large tumbler mixes sugar and sherbet with it, and then hands it to his customer who swallows the mixture with every sign of deep satisfaction.
If possessed of a conveyance the middle-cla.s.s Memon will drive about sunset to the Apollo Bunder, Breach Candy or the Bandstand. Happy possessor of a tolerably decent horse and victoria, he considers himself above the conventionalities of dress, and thus may be seen in the skull-cap, waist-coat, long white s.h.i.+rt and trousers which const.i.tute his shop or business-attire, attended not infrequently by little miniatures of himself in similar garb. Reaching the Bunder he silences the importunity of the children by a liberal purchase of salted almonds and pistachios or grain fried in oil, and pa.s.ses an hour or so in discussing with a friend the market-rate of grain, cotton, _ghi_, or indigo.
If young, the middle-cla.s.s Memon and Rangari is fond of the native theatres where he rewards Parsi histrionic talent by a.s.siduous attention and exclamations of approval. He and his friends break their journey home by a visit to an Irani or Anglo-Indian soda-water shop, where they repeat the monotonous strain of the theatre songs and a.s.sure themselves of the happiness of the moment by asking one another again and again:--”Kevi majha” (what bliss!) to which comes the reply ”Ghani majha” or ”sari majha”
(great bliss!). Then perhaps, if the night is still young, they will knock up the household of a singer and demand a song or two from her. Phryne cannot refuse, however late the hour may be, but she has her revenge by charging a very high price for her songs, which her ”ustads” or musicians take care to pocket beforehand. Home is at length reached, and there after a final supper of ”malai ke piyale” (cups of cream) and hard-boiled eggs the young Memon disappears until the morrow. The older and more settled members of the community amuse themselves till mid-night by congregating in the tea and coffee shops of the city and there discussing the general trend of trade. Others have formed unions, which a.s.semble at the house of each member in turn and spend a few hours in singing the ”maulud” or hymns on the birth of the Prophet (upon whom be peace). These hymns, in pure Hejazi verse, are sung in different measures and are not unpleasant to the ear at a distance. Another peculiar Memon custom is the street-praying for rain. A number of men and boys a.s.semble about 9 p.m., in the street and sing chants set to music by some poet of Gujarat or Hindustan. The chants are really prayers to G.o.d for rain, for forgiveness of sins and for absolution from ingrat.i.tude for former bounties. One with a strong voice sings the recitative, and then the chorus breaks in with the words ”Order, O Lord, the rain-cloud of thy mercy!” Thus chanting the company wanders from street to street till midnight and continues the practice nightly until the rain falls.
A Rangari betrothal though simple enough in itself contains certain elements of interest. The father of the bridegroom usually informs the Patel of the caste that his son's betrothal will take place on a certain day, and on the evening of that day the bridegroom's retinue, accompanied by the Patel and various friends and relations, journeys to the house of the bride. After the company has fully a.s.sembled someone brings forward a cocoanut on a tray with a few copper coins beside it. The Patel then asks why the cocoanut has been brought, to which one of the bride's supporters replies ”It is for the betrothal of the daughter of Zeid with Omar.” This feature of the ceremony is obviously of Hindu origin and must be a legacy of the days when the Rangaris, not yet converted to Islam, belonged to the Hindu Khatri or Kshattriya caste of Gujarat and Cutch. For the loose copper coins, which till recently were styled ”dharam-paisa,” must be lingering remnants of the Brahman ”daks.h.i.+na,” which always accompanied the ”shripal”
or auspicious fruit; while among Hindus from the very earliest ages cocoanuts have been sent by the bride to the bridegroom, sometimes as earnest of an offer of marriage, sometimes in token of acceptance. After this ceremony is complete the parties cannot retract, the ceremony being considered equivalent to a ”nikah” or actual registration by the Kazi; and this fact again discovers the Hindu origin of the Mahomedan Rangaris and of their customs, for among foreign Musulmans the betrothal is a mere period of probation and is terminable at the desire of either party. The ”dharam-paisa” usually finds its way into the pocket of the street-Mulla, who has a room in the neighbouring mosque and is charged with the circulation of invitations to all members of the Rangari jamat to a.s.semble at the bride-groom's house for the betrothal-ceremony.
XIII.
THE SIDIS OF BOMBAY.
AN AFRICAN REEL.
Among the most curious of the modern portions of Bombay City one may reckon Madanpura, which lies off Ripon Road and is commonly known as the home of the Julhais or Muhammadan weavers from Northern India. It is a rapidly growing quarter, for new chals and new shops spring up every year and quickly find a full complement of tenants from among the lower cla.s.ses of the population. Amongst those who like the Julhais have moved northward from the older urban area are the Sidis or Musulmans of African descent, who supply the steams.h.i.+p companies with stokers, firemen and engine-room a.s.sistants, and the dockyards and workshops with fitters and mechanics. A hardy race they are, with their muscular frames, thick lips and crisp black hair--the very last men you would wish to meet in a rough-and-tumble, and yet withal a jovial people, well-disposed and hospitable to anyone whom they regard as a friend. If they trust you fully they will give you _carte blanche_ to witness one of their periodical dances, in which both s.e.xes partic.i.p.ate and, which commencing about 10-30 p.m., usually last until 3 or 4 o'clock the following morning. They are worth seeing once, if only for the sake of learning how the Sidis amuse themselves when the spirit moves them.
Imagine a bare white-washed room, opening directly upon the street, the walls of which boast of no ornament save a row of tom-toms, and the sides and window ledges of which are lined with an expectant crowd of Sidis of varying age, from the small boy of eight years to the elderly headman or patel, who is responsible for the good behaviour of the community and is the general arbiter of their internal disputes. This is the Sidi Jamatkhana or caste-hall: and long before you reach the door threading your way through a crowd of squatting hawkers, your ears are a.s.sailed by the most deafening noise, reminding you forcibly of the coppersmith's bazaar with an accompaniment of rythmic drumming. The cause is not far to seek. In the centre of the room two Sidis are sitting, in c.o.c.k-horse fas.h.i.+on, astride what appear to be wooden imitations of a cannon and beating the parchment- covered mouths of their pseudo-steeds with their hands; at their feet a third Sidi is playing a kind of _reveille_ upon a flattened kerosine oil-tin; and in the corner, with his back to the audience, an immense African--an ebony Pan blowing frenzy through his wide lips--is forcing the whole weight of his lungs into a narrow reed pipe. The noise is phenomenal, overpowering, but is plainly attractive to Sidi ears; for the room is rapidly filling, and more than one of the spectators suddenly leaps from his seat and circles round the drummers, keeping time to the rythm with queer movements of his body and feet and whirling a ”lathi” round his head in much the same fas.h.i.+on as the proverbial Irishman at Donneybrook Fair.
Meanwhile there is some movement toward in the half-light of the inner room. From time to time you catch a glimpse of the black sphinx-faces, immobile and heavy-eyed, framed in scarves bearing a bold pattern of red monkeys and blue palm-trees: and as the din increases the owners of those inscrutable faces creep out and sink down upon a strip of china matting on the far side of the room. They are the wives and daughters of the community--some of them young and, from the Sidi point of view, good to look upon, others emulating the elephant in bulk, but all preternaturally solemn and immovable. Here and there among the faces you miss the well- known type. The thick prominent lips yield place to more delicate mouths, the shapeless nose to the slightly aquiline, for there are half-breeds here, who take more after their Indian fathers than their African mothers, and who serve as a living example of the tricks that Nature can play in the intermingling of races.
[Ill.u.s.tration: Sidis of Bombay.]
And now the piper in the corner sets up a wilder strain; the drummers work till their muscles crack, now looking as if they were undergoing torture, now turning half-round to have a joke with a fresh arrival, until the tension reaches breaking-point and with a shout some ten men dash forward and forming a ring round the musicians commence the wild ”Bomo” dance, even as their savage ancestors were wont to do in past ages round the camp-fires of Africa. Watch them as they move round. They are obviously inspired by the noise and are bent heart and soul upon encouraging the laggards to join in, One of them, as he pa.s.ses, shouts out that he sails by the P. and O. ”Dindigul” the next day and intends to make a night of it; another is wearing the South African medal and says he earned it as fireman-serang on a troops.h.i.+p from these sh.o.r.es; while a third, in deference to the English guest, gives vent at intervals to a resonant ”Hip, hip, Hurrah,” which almost drowns the unmelodious efforts of the ”maestro” with the kerosine-tin. The ”Bomo” dance is followed with scarce a pause by the ”Lewa,” a kind of festal revel, in which the dancers move inwards and outwards as they circle round; and this in turn yields place to the ”Bondogaya” and two religious figures, the ”Damali” and ”Chinughi,” which are said when properly performed to give men the power of divination.
Long ere the ”Lewa” draws to a close, the women have joined in. First two of the younger women move from the corner, one of them with eyes half- closed and preserving a curious rigidity of body even while her feet are rythmically tapping the floor: then two more join and so on, until the circ.u.mference of the dancing-circle is expanded as far as the size of the room will allow and not a single woman is left on the china matting. Some of them are as completely under the spell of the music as the men, but they exhibit little sign of pleasure or excitement on their faces; and were it not for an occasional smile or the weird shriek they raise at intervals, one might suppose them all to be in a state of hypnotism. Perchance they are. The most vivacious of them all is the old Patelni, who since the death of Queen Sophie has been in almost complete control of the female portion of the Sidi community. She has no place in the chain of dancing fanatics but stands in the centre near the drummers, now breaking into a ”pas seul”
on her own account, now urging a laggard with all the force of a powerful vocabulary, beating time the while upon the shoulder of the nearest drummer.
So the revel progresses, sometimes dying down into a slow movement in which only the hoa.r.s.e breathing of the men, the tap-tap of female heels, is heard; and anon breaking into a kind of gallop, punctuated with shouts of ”Bravo” ”Hip, hip, Hurrah” and the queer dental shriek, which our friendly serang tells us is the peculiar note of the African reveller. But at length Nature a.s.serts her sway; and after the dancing has lasted almost without interruption for three hours, the Sidi Patel, Ha.s.san, gives permission for a brief recess, during which he introduces to the spectators the son of the Sidi chief Makanda,--a fine specimen of manhood whose six-foot stature belies the fact that he is still according to Sidi views a minor incapable of looking after his own interests. At this juncture too an itinerant coffee-seller limps into the room with his tin can and cups and is straightway pounced upon by the breathless performers, who apparently find coffee better dancing-powder than any other beverage.
”How much” you ask him ”do you charge per cup?”
”Saheb,” comes the answer, ”for two rupees you can treat the whole gathering, men, women and children to a cup apiece; for this coffee is of the best!” So we pay our footing in kind and bid adieu to the dancers who are prepared to continue the revels till the early hours of the morning. As we turn the corner into Ripon Road, we catch a final glimpse of our bemedalled serang executing a fandango on the door-step, and of the Sidi Patel with a cup of hot coffee in his hand shouting in broken English, ”Good-night, G.o.d Save the King!”
XIV.