Part 28 (2/2)
The market which was held this evening in the town, had a most imposing and brilliant appearance, from the immense of lamps used by the trades-people.
Their visitors, who continued with them until late in the evening, were innumerable, and the noise of the women's tongues was as loud and disagreeable as ever. For some time nothing could quiet them: threats and entreaties were disregarded or laughed at, till at last, they were compelled to resort to the childish expedient of spurting water in their faces from a large syringe. On seeing and feeling the effects of this fearful instrument, they became alarmed and ran away.
On the following day, May 2nd, a fetish priest came to see them, and was about to treat them with the usual harangue of his profession, but they contrived to put a stop to it, by bribing him with a few needles. Nothing particular was observed in this fellow's ornaments or dress, but his person presented a strange and singular appearance.
The colour of his skin was like that of whitish brown paper; his eyebrows and eyelashes were of a silvery whiteness, and his eyes of a bright blue, notwithstanding which, the negro features were strongly and distinctly marked on his countenance. The man's parents were both natives, and quite black, and it was found impossible to ascertain the reason of this extraordinary deviation from the common laws of nature.
They received an abundance of kindness from the good old chief of this place, and his endeavours to make them comfortable were imitated by many of the more respectable inhabitants.
The path recommended by the friendly chief of Coosoo, lay due east from the town, and they pursued their journey on it, on the morning of the 3rd of May. Robbers were stated to be lurking about, and therefore they conceived it prudent, if not absolutely necessary, to take every precaution for the safety of the mission, they, therefore, loaded their own guns and pistols, and armed all their men with swords and muskets. Their Jenna messengers being unacquainted with the new route, the governor of Coosoo had furnished them with two armed foot guides, whose weapons were bows and arrows, besides a horseman, armed at all points, to bring up the rear of the party.
With all these warlike preparations and equipments, a few harmless women, who were terrified at the appearance of the travellers, were the only individuals whom they met with on the path during a ride of two hours, which brought them to a town called Acboro. The town itself was very small, but its dilapidated walls, which enclose an immense extent of ground, would lead the observer to suppose, that it was formerly of much greater magnitude. Within the walls, were three granite hills, two on one side, and the other on the opposite side of the town. All their bases were of solid stone, but their summits consisted of loose blocks, from the interstices of which, trees and stunted vegetation shot forth. Besides these hills, immense ma.s.ses of granite rock were seen piled upon each other in different parts. On the whole, Acboro was one of the wildest and most venerable looking places that the human mind could conceive; the habitations of the people alone, lessening that romantic and pleasing effect, which a first sight of it produces.
Shortly after their arrival, the governor sent them a sucking pig and some other presents, and seemed highly pleased that circ.u.mstances had thrown them in his way. ”White men do nothing but good,” said he, ”and I will pray that G.o.d may bless you, and send more of your countrymen to Youriba.”
Instead of the people running and scrambling to see them, the good-natured ruler of this place excluded the ma.s.s of them from visiting their yard, and came very civilly to ask their permission for a few of his friends to look at them. John Lander was too weak and indisposed to gratify their curiosity by rising from his couch, so his brother went out to exhibit his person, and suffered himself to be examined rather minutely, which must have had a very ludicrous effect, to see the European undergoing an examination by a posse of black inquisitors, just as if he had been a horse or a bullock at Smithfield. They, however, separated tolerably well pleased with each other.
On May the 4th, three men, inhabitants of Acboro, were captured by a gang of restless, marauding scoundrels, who are denominated here, as elsewhere, ”War-men of the path,” but who are, in reality, nothing more nor less, than highway robbers. They subsist solely by pillage and rapine, and waylaying their countrymen. The late governor of Acboro was deposed and driven from the town by his own people, for his indifference to their interest, and the wanton cruelty, with which he treated them and their children. At different times he seized several individuals of both s.e.xes, and sold them as slaves, without a.s.signing any cause for the act. This drew on him the vengeance of the friends and relatives of the sufferers, who prevailed on the town's people to arise with them and punish the aggressor. The latter soon found that his party were too weak to withstand the attacks of the exasperated populace, and he fled to a remote village, where he was residing at the time of the arrival of the Landers. The inhabitants of Acboro immediately elected a more humane and benevolent governor in his stead.
They rose this morning at an early hour, and John Lander finding himself sufficiently recovered to ride on horseback, they bade farewell to the governor of Acboro, and quitted the town by sunrise, taking care to use the same precaution against robbers as on the preceding day. In an hour and three quarters, they entered an open and delightful village called Lazipa. An a.s.semblage of Fellata huts stood near it, by which their beautiful cattle were grazing. Many of the bullocks were as white as snow, others were spotted like a leopard's skin, and others again were dotted with red and black on a white ground. A Fellata girl presented them with a bowl of new milk, which was very agreeable and refres.h.i.+ng, and after drinking it, they bade adieu to the Fellatas and their cattle for ever.
They had not travelled a great way from Lazipa, before they had to cross a large mora.s.s, on the borders of which a very large and handsome species of water-lily flourished in great perfection. They crossed this mora.s.s without difficulty or trouble, and with the same facility also two small streams, which intersected the road. At nine A.M., they arrived at Cootoo, which like Lazipa is an open village, but the former is by far the most extensive of the two. A person, who may have travelled from Penzance in Cornwall to the Land's End, and observed the nature of the soil, and the blocks of granite which are scattered over its surface, will have a very good idea of the country between Acboro and Cootoo, only that in the latter, it is much more woody.
After leaving Cootoo, however, the aspect of the surrounding scenery speedily changed, and became infinitely more pleasing. The soil was more rich and deeper; patches of verdure and cultivated land were more frequent, the latter being neatly fenced; fine handsome trees, with their spreading branches and thick foliage, embellished the country in every direction, and extended to the eastern horizon. It might have been supposed that these trees had been carefully planted by the hand of man, for they grew at equal distances from each other, and none seemed to interfere with the order, beauty, and regularity of its neighbour. The soil between them was covered with a soft green turf, which rendered the whole view remarkably pleasant. It was over this delightful landscape that they travelled; the morning was cooled by a refres.h.i.+ng south-east wind, and the travellers, which is not often the case, were both on good terms with themselves, and gratified by everything around them. At length, they came in sight of numerous herds of fine cattle, attended by little boys, and shortly afterwards, they arrived at a clean and neat Fellata village, the inhabitants of which were employed in feeding calves, and other occupations connected with an African farm. They then crossed a small stream, and entered a town of prodigious extent, called Bhoo, which was fortified with a triple wall and moats. Without being exposed to the customary tiresome formalities, they were immediately conducted to the residence of the governor. The usual conversation pa.s.sed between them, and after they had returned to their hut, a bullock was sent them, with yams, bananas, and a huge calabash of new milk, which did not contain less than six gallons, and the travellers sat down to enjoy themselves in perfect good humour.
In the afternoon, a message was delivered to them, signifying that the governor's head minister would be very glad to see them, and would thank them to visit him in the course of the day. John Lander, however, having experienced a relapse, his sufferings were such as to prevent him leaving the hut, and his brother was, therefore, obliged to go alone. After a pleasant walk of about two miles, he arrived at the habitation of the minister, by whom he was very kindly received.
The compliments of the day only were exchanged between them, and the numerous wives, and large family of the master of the house, who are on these occasions generally exhibited to a stranger, having amply gratified their curiosity by an examination of his person, the interview terminated and he presently returned to his abode, after promising to visit the minister again on the following day.
Bhoo lies north-east of Acboro, and is built on the slope of a very gentle and fertile hill, at whose base flows a stream of milk-white water, and behind which is the Fellata hamlet already mentioned. Its immense triple wall is little short of twenty miles in circuit; but besides huts and gardens, it encloses a vast number of acres of excellent meadow land, in which bullocks, sheep, and goats feed indiscriminately. By the hasty view obtained of it, the town in some degree resembled Kano, but there is no large swamp like that which intersects the latter city. Bhoo was formerly the metropolis of Youriba, but about half a century ago, the reigning prince preferring the plain at Katunga, the seat of government was transferred there, since which Bhoo has materially declined in wealth, population, and consequence, although it is still considered a place of great importance, and the second town in the kingdom. It is bounded on all sides by hills of gradual ascent, which are prettily wooded, and commands an extensive horizon. The land in the vicinity of the town presents a most inviting appearance, by no means inferior to any part of England in the most favourable season of the year. It appears to be duly appreciated by the Fellatas, so great a number of whom reside with their flocks in different parts, that the minister candidly declared he could not give any information of their amount. These foreigners sell their milk, b.u.t.ter, and cheese in the market at a reasonable rate. The latter is made into little cakes about an inch square, and when fried in b.u.t.ter is very palatable. It is of the consistence and appearance of the white of an egg, boiled hard.
Agreeably to the promise which Richard Lander made to the chief, he left his brother to the care of old Pascoe and his wife, and hastened to pay his respects to the chief's head man or minister. It appears that this man was placed in his present situation by the king of Katunga, as a kind of spy on the actions of the governor, who can do nothing of a public nature, without in the first place consulting him, and obtaining his consent to the measure. Yet he conducted himself so well in his disagreeable office, that he won the good will, not only of the governor of the town, but also its inhabitants.
A kind of rivalry existed between the minister and his master, but then it was a rivalry in good and not in bad actions. Hearing that the governor had sent the travellers a bullock, and something besides, he presented Richard Lander with a similar one, and a large calabash of _Pitto_ (country beer,) which Lander distributed amongst those who had accompanied him. A bottle of honey completed the list of presents, and they were forthwith forwarded to their habitation, but Richard Lander remained a considerable time afterwards with the chief. He was filled with amazement at the formation and ticking of Lander's watch, which he gazed on and listened to with transport. The spurs which he wore, also excited his eager curiosity, and he examined them with the greatest attention. He hoped, he said, that G.o.d would bless them both, and that they had his best wishes for their safety. He remarked further, that white men wors.h.i.+pped the great G.o.d alone, and so did black men also, and that every blessing of life was derived from that source.
On the return of Richard, he found his brother extremely ill, he had been so faint and sick during his absence, that his recovery seemed doubtful, but in a few hours afterwards he became better. In the afternoon they sent to the governor and the minister, who had behaved so handsomely to them, three yards of fine red cloth, a common looking-gla.s.s, tobacco pipe, a pair of scissors, snuffbox, and a large clasp knife. The tobacco pipe was much admired, but the red cloth was the most valued; with the whole, however, they were both perfectly well pleased, and were extravagant in their expressions of grat.i.tude.
One of the bullocks was slaughtered this morning, and about two thirds of it distributed by the governor and his chief man to the poor in the town; the remainder of the carca.s.s was divided equally amongst the attendants of the travellers, who appeared by no means anxious to leave the place, while their present, unusually good fare, was to be had.
John Lander was now so far recovered as to excite a hope that they might be able to proceed on their journey, on the following day. His recovery was, however, considerably r.e.t.a.r.ded by the continual noises to which he was subject. Perhaps, of all evils that can afflict a sick person, noises of any kind are the greatest. In Africa, whether a person be ill or well, it is exactly the same, nothing like peace or quiet is any where to be found; independently of the continual fluttering of pigeons, which roosted close to their ears, the bleating of sheep and goats, and the barking of numerous half-starved dogs, they were still more seriously annoyed by the incessant clatter of women's tongues, which pursued them every where, and which it was believed nothing less than sickness or death on their part could eventually silence. The shrillness of their voices drowns the bleating of the sheep, and the yellings of the canine race; and notwithstanding all the exertions of Richard Lander, seconded by those of their attendants, their noise in this town considerably r.e.t.a.r.ded the recovery of his brother. A person in England might be inclined to think lightly of this matter, but it is indeed a grievance, which can ill be borne by an invalid languis.h.i.+ng under a wasting disease, and who has equally as much need of rest and silence as of medicine. Besides those grievances, the shouts of the people outside the yard, and the perpetual squalling of children within it, the buzzing of beetles and drones, the continual attacks of mosquitoes and innumerable flies, form a host of irritating evils, to which a sick person is exposed, and to which he is obliged patiently to submit, until by a relief from his disorder, he is obliged to stand upon his legs, and once more take his own part. But even then noises a.s.sail his ear, and he does not enjoy the happiness of perfect silence unless he enters a grove or forest.
They were this morning, visited by a party of Fellatas of both s.e.xes.
They differed but little either in colour or feature from the original natives of the soil. In dress and ornaments, however, there was a slight distinction between them. They displayed more taste in their apparel, and wore a greater number of ornaments round the neck and wrists; they paid also great attention to their hair, which the women plait with astonis.h.i.+ng ingenuity. Like that of the young woman, whom they met at Jenna, their heads exactly resembled a dragoon's helmet. Their hair was much longer of course than that of the negro, which enables the Fallatas to weave it on both sides of the head into a kind of _queue_, which pa.s.sing over each cheek is tied under the chin.
Another company of Fellatas came to them in the evening, for they had never beheld a white man, and curiosity had led them to their habitation. They brought with them a present of a little thick milk, of which they begged the travellers' acceptance, and then went away highly gratified with the interview. The behaviour of the whole of them was extremely reserved and respectful; nothing in the persons of the travellers excited their merriment, on the contrary, they seemed silently to admire their dress and complexion, and having examined them well at a distance, seemed grateful for the treat.
In the mean time, the kindness and generosity of the governor of Bhoo continued unabated; instead of diminis.h.i.+ng, it seemed to strengthen; he literally inundated them with milk, and he was equally lavish with other things. It gave them unmixed pleasure to meet with so much native politeness and attention from a quarter, where they the least expected it, and at a time also, when it was the most required.
After they had retired to rest, a Fellata woman came to their dwelling, bringing with her a number of eggs of the guinea-hen, and a large bowl of milk fresh from the cow, as a return for a few needles they had given her in the afternoon. This circ.u.mstance is mentioned merely to show the difference between the Fellatas and the Youribeans, in point of grat.i.tude for favours which they may have received. The latter are very seldom grateful, and never acknowledge grat.i.tude as a virtue. The indifference, unconcern, and even contempt, which they often evinced on receiving the presents which the Landers made them, was a proof of this, and with a very few exceptions, they never observed a Youribean to be sincerely thankful for any thing.
On the following morning, John Lander was able to sit on horseback, and as they were on the point of taking their departure, the governor came out to bid them farewell, and presented them with two thousand kowries to a.s.sist them on their journey.
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