Part 14 (1/2)
They now proceeded to visit the interior of the town. The houses were built of mud, and erected on the sides of the hill, appearing as if one were pulled on the other. The pa.s.sages or streets between them are narrow, and in two or three instances, some excavations were made through the rocks. The ascent was steep in some places, and they had to pa.s.s through the mosque before they arrived at the highest portion. From this they had a line view of Wadey s.h.i.+ati in every direction, running nearly east and west; in the former direction it was well inhabited as far as Oml' Abeed, which is the westernmost town. Many houses were in ruins, and many more were approaching to that state, still it was called the new town, although its appearance little ent.i.tles it to that appellation; but the ancient inhabitants lived in excavations in the rocks, the remains of which are very distinct. At the bottom of the hill, they entered several, not much decayed by time. At a hundred yards, however, from the base of the hill, and now used as a burying-ground, there is a subterranean house, of large dimensions, and probably the residence of the great personage. Dr. Oudney and Clapperton entered this excavation, and found three extensive galleries, which communicated only by small openings, on pa.s.sing through which, they had to stoop considerably.
The galleries were, however, high, and of considerable length, about one hundred and fifty feet, and each had several small recesses, like sleeping rooms. The whole had neatness about it, and showed a taste in the excavation. There are no traces of similar abodes in Fezzan.
The people are so afraid, and so superst.i.tious, that scarcely one of the town had ever entered it. They were astonished when the Europeans entered it without ceremony, and two, encouraged by their example, brought them a light, by which they were enabled to look into the different recesses.
On the 6th July, they started, with a beautiful moonlight, over a sandy plain, with a great many small hillocks. They stopped at Dalhoon, a well nearly filled up with sand, and containing water so brackish that they were unable to drink it. They started again, and got in amongst the sand-hills. Their new guide proved neither such an active man, nor so experienced a pilot, as their old Tuarick, as they had several times to retrace their steps.
After visiting several places of no particular note, they arrived at Ghraat, and were soon visited by a number of Hateeta's relations, one of whom was his sister; some were much affected, and wept at the sufferings that had detained him so long from them. A number of his male relations soon came, and many of the inhabitants of the town.
The ladies were a free and lively set. They were not a little pleased with the grave manner in which their visitors uttered the various complimentary expressions. Hateeta was not well pleased with something he had heard, but he told them not to be afraid, as he had numerous relations. They informed him that fear never entered their b.r.e.a.s.t.s, and begged him not to be uneasy on their account.
Early on the following morning, numerous visitors paid their respects to Hateeta, and were introduced in due form to the Europeans, who felt the length of time spent in salutations quite fatiguing, and so absurd in their eyes, that they could scarcely at times retain their gravity. The visitors were mostly residents of the city, and all were decorated in their best. There were also a sedateness and gravity in the appearance of all, which the dress tended greatly to augment.
In the afternoon, they visited the sultan. Mats had been spread in the castle in a small anti-chamber. The old man was seated, but rose up to receive them, and welcomed them to his city. He apologized for not waiting on them, but said he was sick, and had been very little out for some time. He had guinea-worm, and cataract was forming in his eyes. He was dressed in a nearly worn-out robe, and trousers of the same colour, and round his head was wrapped an old piece of yellow coa.r.s.e cloth for a turban. Notwithstanding the meanness of the dress, there was something pleasing and prepossessing in his countenance, and such as made them quite as much at home, as if in their tents. They presented him with a sword, with which he was highly pleased. Hateeta wished it had been a Bornouse; but they had none with them which they considered sufficiently good. They were led away by the t.i.tle sultan, having no idea that the Tuaricks were so vain; for they used to fill them with high notions of the wealth and greatness of the people of Ghraat.
On the whole, their interview was highly pleasing, and every one seemed much pleased with their visitors. The old sultan showed them every kindness, and they had every reason to believe him sincere in his wishes. After their visit, they called at the house of Lameens, son of the kadi. He was a young man of excellent character, and universally respected. His father was then in Ghadames, arranging, with some of the other princ.i.p.al inhabitants, the affairs of the community. He had left directions with his son, to show the strangers every attention. His house was neatly fitted up, and carpets spread on a high bed, on which the visitors seated themselves. Several of the people who were in the castle came along with them, and by the a.s.sistance of those, who could speak Arabic, they were able to keep up a tolerably good conversation. On inquiring about the Tuarick letters, they found the same sounds given them as they had before heard from others. They were here at the fountain-head, but were disappointed at not being able to find a book in the Tuarick language; they were informed, that there was not one extant.
In the evening Hateeta's kinswomen returned. They were greatly amused, and laughed heartily at their visitors blundering out a few Tuarick words. It may be well supposed they were very unfit companions for the ladies, as they spoke no other language than their own, and the strangers knew very little of it. Still, however, they got on very well, and were mutually pleased. Dr. Oudney could scarcely refrain laughing several times, at the grave manner which Clapperton a.s.sumed. He had been tutored by Hateeta, and fully acted up to his instructions; no Tuarick could have done it better. Their friend Hateeta was anxious that they should s.h.i.+ne, if not make an impression on the hearts of the ladies, and therefore read a number of lectures to Clapperton, as to the manner in which he should deport himself. He was directed not to laugh nor sing, but to look as grave as possible, which Hateeta said would be sure to please the grave Tuaricks. The liveliness of the women, their freeness with the men, and the marked attention the latter paid them, formed a striking contrast with other Mahommedan states.
They now proceeded to take a circuit of the town, and during their walk they fell in with a number of females, who had come out to see them. All were free and lively, and riot at all deferred by the presence of the men. Several of them had fine features, but only one or two could be called beautiful. Many of the natives came out of their houses as they pa.s.sed along, and cordially welcomed them to their town. It was done with so much sincerity and good heartedness, that they could not but be pleased and highly flattered.
In the evening they heard a numerous band of females, singing at a distance, which was continued till near midnight. The women were princ.i.p.ally those of the country. This custom is very common among the people, and is one of the princ.i.p.al amus.e.m.e.nts in the mountain recesses. Hateeta said they go out when their work is finished, in the evening, and remain till near midnight, singing and telling stories; return home, take supper, and go to bed.
CHAPTER XXI.
Dr. Oudney and his companions now determined to return to Mourzouk, where they arrived in November, and on the 29th of the same month, they again departed, accompanied by nearly all those of the town, who could muster horses; the camels had moved early in the day, and at Zerzow, they found the tents pitched. From Zerzow to Traghan there is a good high road, with frequent incrustations of salt. A marabout of great sanct.i.ty, is the princ.i.p.al person in Traghan, as his father was before him. After being crammed as it were by the hospitality of this marabout, they left Traghan for Maefen, an a.s.semblage of date huts, with but one house. The road to this place lies over a mixture of sand and salt, having a curious and uncommon appearance. The path, by which all the animals move for some miles, is a narrow s.p.a.ce, or strip, worn smooth, bearing a resemblance both in appearance and hardness to ice.
Quitting Maefen, they quickly entered on a desert plain, and after a dreary fourteen hours march for camels, they arrived at Mestoota, a maten or resting place, where the camels found some little grazing, from a plant called ahgul. Starting at sunrise, they had another fatiguing day, over the same kind of desert, without seeing one living thing that did not belong to the kafila, not a bird, nor even an insect; the sand is beautifully fine, round, and red. It is difficult to give the most distant idea of the stillness and beauty of a night scene, on a desert of this description. The distance between the resting places is not sufficiently great, for the dread of want of water to be alarmingly felt, and the track, though a sandy one, is well known to the guides. The burning heat of the day is succeeded by cool and refres.h.i.+ng breezes, and the sky ever illumined by large and brilliant stars, or an unclouded moon. By removing the loose and pearl-like sand, to the depth of a few inches, the effects of the sunbeams of the day are not perceptible, and a most soft and refres.h.i.+ng couch is easily formed. The ripple of the driving sand resembles that of a slow and murmuring stream, and after escaping from the myriads of fleas, which day and night persecute you, in the date-bound valley in which Mourzouk stands, the luxury of an evening of this description is an indescribable relief. Added to the solemn stillness, so peculiarly striking and impressive, there is an extraordinary echo in all deserts, arising probably from the closeness and solidity of a sandy soil, which does not absorb the sound. They now arrived at Gabrone. The Arabs watch for a sight of the high date trees, which surround this town, as sailors look for land, and after discovering these land marks, they shape their course accordingly.
Here Major Denham joined his companions, whom he found in a state of health but ill calculated for undertaking a long and tedious journey.
During the stay of the major at Mourzouk, he had suffered from a severe attack of fever, which had kept him for ten days in his bed, and although considerably debilitated, yet he was strong in comparison with his a.s.sociates. Dr. Oudney was suffering much from his cough, and still complaining of his chest. Mr. Clapperton's ague had not left him, and Hillman had been twice attacked so violently, as to be given over by the doctor. They all, however, looked forward anxiously to proceeding on their journey, and fancied that change of scene and warmer weather, would bring them all round.
Gabrone is not unpleasantly situated; it is surrounded by sandhills and mounds of earth, covered with a small tree, called _athali._ The person of the greatest importance at Gabrone, is one Hagi el Raschid, a large proprietor, and a marabout. He was a man of very clear understanding and amiable manners, and as he uses the superst.i.tion of the people as the means of making them happy, and turning them from vicious pursuits, we become, as it were, almost reconciled to an impostor.
They departed from Gabrone at 11 o'clock, a.m. The marabout accompanied Boo Khaloom outside the town, and having drawn, not a magic circle, but a parallelogram on the sand, with his wand, he wrote in it certain words of great import, from the Koran; the crowd looked on him in silent astonishment, while he a.s.sumed a manner both graceful and imposing, so as to make it impossible for any one to feel at all inclined to ridicule his motions. When he had finished repeating the fatah aloud, he invited the party singly to ride through the spot he had consecrated, and having obeyed him, they silently proceeded on their journey, without repeating even an idea.
They pa.s.sed a small nest of huts in the road, prettily situated, called El Bahhi, from whence the women of the place followed them with songs for several miles. Having halted at Medroosa, they moved on the next morning, and leaving an Arab castle to the south-east, and some table-top hills, they arrived at Kasrowa by three in the afternoon.
On the 9th December, they were to arrive at Tegerhy. The Arabs commenced skirmis.h.i.+ng as soon as they came within sight of it, and kept it up in front of the town for half an hour after their arrival.
They were to halt here for a day or two, for the purpose of taking in the remainder of their dates and provisions, and never was halt more acceptable. Almost the whole of the party were afflicted with illness; the servants were all so ill, that one of the negro women made them a mess of kouscasou, with some preserved fat, which had been prepared in Mourzouk, it was a sorry meal, for the fat was rancid, and although tired and not very strong, Major Denham could not refuse an invitation about nine at night, after he had laid down to sleep, to eat camels' heart with Boo Khaloom; it was woefully hard and tough, and the major suffered the next morning from indulging too much at the feast.
The Tibboos and Arabs kept them awake half the night with their singing and dancing, in consequence of the bousafer or feast, on entering the Tibboo country. Boo Khaloom gave two camels, and the major and his party gave one. The sick seemed to gain a little strength; they had succeeded in purchasing a sheep, and a little soup seemed to revive them much, but they feared that Hillman and one of the servants must be left behind. However distressing such an event would have been, it was impossible for men, who could not sit upright on a mule, to commence a journey of fifteen days over a desert, during which travellers are obliged to march from sunrise until dark.
The morning of the 12th December was beautifully mild. After breakfast, all seemed revived, but it was with great pain that Major Denham observed the exceeding weakness of Dr. Oudney and Hillman; he fancied that he already saw in them, two more victims to the noxious climate of central Africa.
Almost every town in Africa has its charm or wonder, and Tegerhy is not without one. There is a well just outside the castle gates, the water of which, they were told most gravely, always rose when a kafila was coming near the town; that the inhabitants always prepared what they had to sell, on seeing this water increase in bulk, for it never deceived them. In proof of this a.s.sertion, they pointed out to Major Denham, how much higher the water had been previously to their arrival, than it was at the moment, when they were standing on the brink. This Major Denham could have explained, by the number of camels that had drunk at it, but he saw it was better policy to believe what every body allowed to be true, even Boo Khaloom exclaimed, ”Allah! G.o.d is great, powerful, and wise. How wonderful!
Oh!” Over the inner gate of the castle, there is a large hole through to the gateway underneath, and they tell a story, of a woman dropping from thence a stone on the head of some leader, who had gained the outer wall, giving him by that means the death of Abimelech in sacred history.
The natives of Tegerhy are quite black, but have not the negro face; the men are slim, very plain, with high cheek bones, the negro nose, large mouth, teeth much stained by the quant.i.ty of tobacco, and _trona_ or carbonate of soda, which they eat, and even snuff, when given to them, goes directly into their mouths.
The young girls are most of them pretty, but less so than those of Gabrone. The men always carry two daggers, one about eighteen inches, and the other six inches; the latter of which is attached to a ring, and worn on the arm or wrist. A Tibboo once told Major Denham, pointing to the long one, ”This is my gun, and this” showing the smaller of the two, ”is my pistol.”