C327 Tang suit and tang suit (2/2)
According to APEC standards, men's tang suit should be a kind of collar, lapel, collar and the border of the front of the door, rolled with a colorless material; two pieces of front garment, no discount, a row of seven grape buttons at the front of the door, two pieces of rear garment, back seams, two sleeves, shoulder pads, clothes with a fork at the left and right of the seams.
Therefore, the so-called Tang suit was not Han clothing but a full man uniform. To be honest, if Xiao Wen wore this kind of clothing, he would be alright in Tang Kingdom, at most, he would just receive strange looks.
However, if he were to wear these clothes outside Ming Kingdom, which was a Han Chinese country with conflicts with the Tatar, it would probably arouse hostility.
As for the history of the Tang suit, it should be a kind of round collar robe.
The round-necked robe first appeared in the Shang Dynasty, and the idol of the person unearthed on the right can testify.
As the Han Dynasty gradually unified the dress, the round neck robe was worn as an undergarment.
After the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the Northern Wei, which was founded by the inferior people, began to dress as a formal dress, and was popular in Sui and Tang Dynasties and the late Ming dynasties.
According to the records of the Hu Clothes Examination by Wang Guowei, in the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the Hu clothing was used as the regular uniform in the Northern Dynasties, the Han nationality in the Southern Dynasties was used as the military uniform, the ratio was similar to that of the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It has a long history and complex changes. The round collar is also called the group collar, which is a kind of non-collar type.
The collar was round, with a hard lining, and the collar was stapled with buttons. A round collar robe is a narrow sleeve with a round collar. According to the records of the Tang Dynasty, the Son of Heaven wore red and yellow robes. He wore a towel, tied nine rings, and six pairs of boots.
Through the development of the Sui and Tang dynasties, this kind of clothing gradually spread throughout the country, and can be worn by any man or woman in a round collar and gown.
The men's round collar and robes were mostly of pure color, without any decorative patterns.
The woman's round neck robe was bright in color and had many patterns. In Dunhuang mural, the Uighur portrait ”Madame Duguo's Rites of Buddha” has the image of a woman wearing a round neck robe.
The convenience and comfort of the collar are self-evident, and it is also popular today.
A round collar robe is also called a ”robe” or a ”top collar robe”. A robe is a jacket, while a shirt is a simple shirt. Later on, it was referred to as a robe.
After the left and right lapels of the robe were folded over each other in front of the chest, the lapels were lifted to the neck with a belt or button and fixed at the side of the neck. The appropriate cutting was used to form a circular collar.
A round neck robe is originally a straight sleeve or an arrow sleeve and is worn as a regular uniform.
When it came to Song Ming, it became a frock coat, and officials wore more.
The pattern also developed into a large sleeve, and there were many patterns such as Pu Zi or a variety of wild, qilin patterns.
And according to the famous works of the Tang Dynasty painter Yan Li-ben, ”the map of the chariots” depicted this scene: Chastity Monastery 15 years (641), Tuofan Luodan went to the capital to welcome Princess Wen Cheng to Tibet, and Tang Taizong received him.
The scene on the right was about Tang Taizong sitting on a chariot. Three people were standing on the left. One of them was wearing a felt hat and a brocade robe. The other two were officials of Tang Dynasty. The characters in the painting were all wearing narrow sleeved round collars. Even the emperor was no exception.
It could be said that the round-collared robe was a very popular style of clothing in the Tang Dynasty.
Tang Chinese calligraphy ordered Ma Zhou to discuss: ”Rites without clothes, three generations of the system of deep clothes. Please add ”O”, ”Xiu”, ”You”, ”O”, for the scholar. ”Those who open it will have their name written on it, and those who don't wear it will have to wear it.”
Zhangsun Wuji further suggested, ”A person wearing robes will receive 100%. Ferguson, Purple and Green are all considered to be of similar quality. A concubine will receive 100% white.”
The Sui and Tang Dynasties then took the turtleneck as their uniform. During this period, the round neck robe developed two types, one was the ”open” type, namely the ”split” type. One type is closed, with a horizontal addition at the bottom of the pendulum to indicate the search for ancestral system. There were buckles on both sides of his neck, and then there were buckles on the following points, a total of four places. He then wore a walking belt around his waist, a headband, pants, and boots, and a round neck tunic. This was the standard set of a round neck robe.
Xiao Wen pondered for a moment, and felt that since he was going out in his own right to be friends, there was no problem in wearing the round collar robe.
According to the memories of his body, most of the people around him wore these kinds of clothes when he was in the Southern Tang Dynasty.
Therefore, wearing this kind of clothes, it could be said that Xiao Wen had gone back to his hometown tradition.