Part 23 (1/2)

Along the plain, small clusters of brush protruded into it from the forest, or covered low st these copses, the tracks of buffaloes were very numerous

We travelled about ten miles north-west by north, and encamped at a small pool of water in a creek, in which the clayey ironstone cropped out Its water was so ium-trees, that Mr Phillips boiled and drank it like tea Before arriving at this creek, we had a thunder-stor our tents, our guides went out, and returned with a sar), and with pods of the rose-coloured Sterculia, which they roasted on the coals I succeeded in saving a great part of our reatly distressed by large horse-flies, and every now and then the poor brutes would come and stand in the s torht contributed very h alled besides, which was prevented only in two by theof their backs On this stage we again passed one of those oven-like huts of the natives, thatched with grass, which I have mentioned several times, and which Nyuall's tribe called ”Corambal” At the place where we encae hut were still visible, which indicated that the natives had profited by their long intercourse with the Malays and Europeans, in the construction of their habitations

Dec 14--When we started, intending to follow the foot-path, our native guides remained behind; and, when I had proceeded two or three miles, my companions came up to me and stated, that the natives had left us, but that they had given them to understand that the foot-path would conduct us safely to Balanda They had atteiven it up when Brown asked the left us, as the cloudy sky had preventedany latitude, and deterreat nu the ridges of the neck of the Peninsula Scattered Pandanus and drooping tea-trees grew on their banks as far as the fresh water extended; when they were succeeded by the salt-water tea-tree and the ed into stiff plains, without vegetation, or into uiera, and Pemphis The tracks of the buffaloes increased in nu in various directions, and made me frequently mistake them for the foot-path of the natives, which I eventually lost A course north 30 degrees west, brought us to easterly creeks, one of which I followed dohen Brown called out that he saw the sea We, therefore, went to the sea-side, and found ourselves at the head of a large bay, with an island to the north-east, and with headlands stretching far into the ocean, which was open and boundless to the northward It was Mount Morris Bay, with Valentia and Crocker's islands; the latter, however, appeared to us to be a continuation of the main land We noent to the north-west and ard, until we caain on westerly waters The country in the centre of the neck of the Peninsula, was very hilly, and soes rose, perhaps, from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet above the level of the sea; one or two hills were still higher They were all composed of a clayey ironstone, and clothed with patches of scrub, formed principally of Calythrix, and with a um, tea-trees, bloodwood, Livistona paletons The grass was dry, but high and dense; and buffalo tracks spread in every direction, particularly down the creeks, both to the eastward and ard

We followed a westerly creek in all its windings, in order to detect water in one of its rocky water-holes The rock was shaly, of a greyish colour, like the clay shale of Newcastle above the layers of the coal, butthe banks, and their verdure led me frequently to expect the presence of water We roves commenced, and had consequently to continue our journey Here we again carove swamps, and I followed it for about three miles farther, crossed several dry watercourses, and at last found some pools of rain water, in a sh to rees 32 minutes 11 seconds

Dec 15--I followed the foot-path of the natives, with the intention of continuing on it, until I caht of Mounts Bedwell and Roe If I had done so, much trouble would have been saved But, after we had travelled y, and I supposed that ere close to thosethem We went consequently to the northward, and after an hour's riding over a hilly, but openly timbered country, came to an easterly creek, which we followed down, until we found an abundance of water The upper part of this creek was very scrubby, and with but little grass I iton, and that the creek on which we encamped was probably the Warvi To ascertain this, I rode down the creek with Charley: it became more open; limited flats of sandy alluviurass, and with groves of Banksias; its holloere fringed with large drooping tea-trees The creek itself was a succession of shady water-holes, out of which, at our approach dashed buffaloes, three and four at a ti their alloped to the neighbouring thickets

The stiff sedges of the salt-water, and the salt-water tea-trees, made their appearance about three miles from our camp; and it is probable that the sea was scarcely half a h hills rose to the northward, openly timbered, but at their base with patches of scrub, and very stony Here we heard the distant cooees of natives, which we answered, going in their direction, until we came to a camp, in which we found an old lame man, ”Baki Baki,” and a short sturdy fellow, ”Ralish words, and were quite familiar with the settlement, and knew the Couide us the nextmade many inquiries about our stock of provisions and of tobacco I rees 26 ulus; which, allowing a possible error of a few miles, confirmed me in my belief, that ere at the head of the harbour; particularly as Baki Baki had toldfrom the settlement

Dec 16--When we arrived with our whole train at the camp of the natives, their behaviour was quite altered, and they noed as little inclination to guide us to the settleht to do so I persuaded Baki Baki, however, to go, at least part of the way; and,that he became tired, we mounted him on one of the horses, and led it by the bridle He pointed to the WNW as the direction in which the settlement lay We travelled about five roves of Livistona pal their slopes Here Baki Baki desired to disood road to Balanda, took his leave and returned Soon after we ca to the eastward, which we followed up for a long distance, before ere able to cross Our pack-horse becaed, and as it was so weak that it would not even make an effort to extricate itself, and as I supposed that ere near the settlement, we took off its pack-saddle and load, and left it behind

We crossed two or three more watercourses; and continued the course pointed out by the native, until it became very late, and I found myself compelled to look for water; particularly as our bullock showed evident sy knocked up I therefore followed the fall of the country to the north-east; and, in a short time, came to the sea-side We coton with the configuration of the bay before us, but nothing would agree exactly, although it bore a general resemblance to Raffles Bay

A narrow belt of brush covered the approaches to the water; but the scarlet Eugenia grew on the sandy flats towards the hilly forest; where we also found a new tree, a species of Anacardiuula;” it bore a red succulent fruit, forreyish one-seeded nut outside, like Exocarpus The fruit was extre; the envelope, however, contained such an acrid juice that it ate into and discoloured my skin, and raised blisters wherever it touched it: these blisters were not only followed by a simple excoriation, but by a deep and painful ulceration In the forest, weshoots of which we obtained with great difficulty, not then knowing how easily the natives strip the leaves and leafstalks I followed a a well beaten foot-path of the natives to the northward, crossed a creek, in the ed, which we extricated after great exertion; and, after two or three e fresh-water swa set, and our cattle, as well as ourselves, were miserably tired We were here visited by a tribe of natives, ell acquainted with the settle to assist us; and lish One of theh a hunchback, naave us to understand that we had coo to the south-west, in order to head Port Essington, and to follow its west coast, in order to arrive at Victoria We were, in fact, at Raffles Bay The natives knew every body in Victoria, and did not cease to give us all the news; to which we reat distance, and gave us so the state of exhaustion and depression in which ere, they tried to cheer us with their corrobori songs, which they acco tube of bamboo, by means of which they variously modulated their voices

Ithe afternoon

Dec 17--We started, with a willing guide, for the goal of our journey, and travelled to the south-west over a hilly country, covered with groves of the Livistona palm, which, as we proceeded becae creek, containing a chain of large water-holes went to the north-east, and diseued probably into Bremer's Bay We followed it for three or fourit, we had a very heavy thunder-storm; at the earliest hour we had ever witnessed one The Seaforthia palm because very abundant, and at last the forest was foruide showed us hoe could easily obtain the young shoots, by splitting the leaves and leafstalks; and we enjoyed a fine o any farther, and, as I then knew that the settlement was not very distant, I unloaded his, and left him to recruit for a few days; when I intended to send for hie palm became rarer, and entirely disappeared at the head of it We crossed several creeks running into the harbour, until we arrived at the Matunna, a dry creek, at which the foot-path from Pitchenelumbo (Van Diomen's Gulf) touched the harbour, and on which we should have coht We followed it now, crossed the Warvi, the Wainunoons or swarove thickets At the banks of the Vollir, sos exist, which induced Sir Gordon Bremer to choose that place for a settlement, and on which Victoria at present stands All these creeks were separated from each other by a hilly forest land; but srass, and bordered by Banksias, extended along their banks The forest was principally coueton, Pachyne the real Ironbark (Eucalyptus resinifera) was observed at the Warvi; but I expect it will be found entirely different The stringy-bark and the drooping tea-tree were the only useful timber near the settlement The Cypress-pine (Callitris) could, however, be obtained without any great difficulty from Mount Morris Bay, or Van Diemen's Gulf

On the Vollir, we cah hill; and, having passed the garden, with its fine Cocoa-nut pales burst suddenly upon us; the house of the Coht and separate from the rest We were most kindly received by Captain Macarthur, the Coton, and by the other officers, ith the greatest kindness and attention, supplied us with every thing anted I was deeply affected in finding ain in civilized society, and could scarcely speak, the words growing big with tears and e hat s journey, ement of his infinite kindness

After a ton, the schooner Heroine, Captain Mackenzie, arrived froe to Sydney, via Torres Strait and the Inner Barrier, a route only once before attempted with success

We embarked in this vessel, and arrived safely in Sydney, on the 29th of March To the generous attentions of Captain Mackenzie our party owe ot the privations of our late journey At Sydney, a reception awaited us, the warmth and kindness of which, it is out of my power to describe All classes pressed forward to testify their joy at our reappearance, which, we found, had been long despaired of, and to offer their aid in supplying our wants A public subscription was set on foot, which, in a very feeeks, by the liberal contributions which flowed in from all parts of the Colony, aislative Council, a ht forward, which, by the unanimous vote of that House, and the ready concurrence of His Excellency, Sir George Gipps, the Governor, devoted a Thousand Pounds out of the Public Revenue to our use

In the Appendix to this volume, will be found the very handsome letter, in which the Hon Mr E Deas Thomson, the Colonial Secretary, conveyed to me this resolution of the Governs taken at the School of Arts, on the 21st September, when His Honor, The Speaker, Dr C Nicholson, presented me with that portion of the public subscription, which the Co these documents before the Public, I will leave it to be supposed how vain would be any atteenerous people to whom I have inscribed this humble narrative

APPENDIX

LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR LEICHHARDT

Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney, 25th June, 1846