Part 1 (1/2)

Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia

by Ludwig Leichhardt

PREFACE

In preparing this voluations to Captain P P King, R N, an officer whose researches have added so entleman has not only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of obtaining thehis surveys of the coasts parallel to my track

To S A Perry, Esq, Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map I shall ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous attention hich he listened to the details of my journey

From the Rev W B Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every assistance which his high scientific acquireive

I take this opportunity of publicly expressing enerous assistance they have afforded me on this occasion, and for the warh to take in the success ofenterprise

LUDWIG LEICHIJARDT

SYDNEY, September 29th, 1846

INTRODUCTION

ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION--PARTY FORMED--LEAVE SYDNEY FOR BRISBANE--PARTY ENLARGED--OUTFIT AND STORES

On my return to Moreton Bay, from an exploratory journey in the country northward of that district, which had occupied me for two years, I found that the subject of an overland expedition to Port Essington on the North Coast of Australia, was occupying much attention, as well on the part of the public as on that of the Legislative Council, which had earnestly recommended the appropriation of a sum of money to the amount of 1000 pounds, for the equipment of an expedition under Sir Tho object Some delay was, however, caused by the necessity of co with the Secretary of State for the Colonies; and in theto start from Adelaide to proceed across the Continent

Frothe difficulties of travelling through a brokenprivations of every sort, ”I was inspired with the desire of atte it,” provided I could be assisted in the expense that would necessarily be incurred for the outfit, and could find a few coly and patiently subn theuidance

I had well considered this interesting subject in all its bearings, and had discussed it withdistrict; ere generally of opinion that it was practicable, under the plan I had marked out: but with others, particularly at Sydney, I had to contend against a strong but kindly meant opposition to my journey Soretted that I should leave so pro a field of research as that which offered itself within the limits of New South Wales, and in which they considered I had laboured with so the last two years Others considered the undertaking exceedingly dangerous, and even the conception of it madness on my part; and the consequence of a blind enthusiasm, nourished either by a deep devotion to science, or by an unreasonable craving for fame: whilst others did not feel the aout with an intention of co suicide I was not, however, blind as to the difficulties of the journey which I was determined to undertake; on the contrary, and I hope ht they would be reater indeed than they eventually proved to be; but, duringdistricts, I had so accustomed myself to a comparatively wild life, and had so closely observed the habits of the aborigines, that I felt assured that the only real difficulties which I could meet ould be of a local character And I was satisfied that, by cautiously proceeding, and always reconnoitring in advance or on either side of our course, I should be able to conduct rassy and atered route; and, if I were so fortunate as to effect this, I felt assured that the journey, once coton Buoyed up by this feeling, and by confidence in uments of my friends, and commenced my preparations, which, so far as my own slender means and the contributions of kind friends alloere rather hurriedly coust, 1844

As ourorder, our preparations were confined more to such provisions and stores as were actually necessary, than to anything else But I had frequently reason to regret that I was not better furnished with instru water apparatus, to ascertain the elevation of the country and ranges we had to travel over The only instruments which I carried, were a sextant and Artificial Horizon, a Chronometer, a hand Kater's Compass, a small Thermometer, and Arrows the plan of my journey I had li ed to decline their offers, and confine myself to the stated number, as it was intimately connected with the principles and theSydney, my companions consisted of Mr James Calvert; Mr John Roper; John Murphy, a lad of about 16 years old: of William Phillips, a prisoner of the Crown; and of ”Harry Brown,” an aboriginal of the Newcastle tribe:with ht of the 13th August, for Moreton Bay, in the stean,” Captain Cape; and I havethe liberality and disinterested kindness of the Hunter's River Steae for e was unusually long, and, instead of arriving at Brisbane in three days, ere at sea a week, so that my horses suffered ly poor On arriving at Brisbane, ere received with the greatest kindness by my friends the ”Squatters,” a class principally coentleh principles, and whose unbounded hospitality and friendly assistance I had previously experienced during entlemen and the inhabitants of Brisbane overloaded me with kind contributions, much of which, however, to avoid any unnecessary increase to e, I found myself coo the advantage oftoo cue, and therefore interfering with the arrange

My means, however, had since my arrival been so much increased, that I was after e,--to increasepersons were added to the expedition:--Mr

Peson, a resident of the district; Mr Gilbert; Caleb, an Ainal native of the Bathurst tribe Mr Hodgson was so desirous of accoations, I could not refuse hiht be useful Of Mr

Gilbert I knew nothing; he was in the service of Mr Gould, the talented Zoologist who has added so e of the Fauna of Australia, and expressed hi important observations as to the limits of the habitat of the Eastern Coast Birds, and also where those of the North Coast co the progress of the journey, that, from a desire to render all the service in ed to yield to his solicitations, although for soentlemen equipped themselves, and added four horses and two bullocks to those already provided

Perhaps, of all the difficulties I afterwards encountered, none were of sofrom Brisbane Much rain had fallen, which filled the creeks and set they and soft as to render them almost impassable It took us the whole day to transport our party, cattle, and provisions over the river, and the operation was not concluded before sunset; but, as it was a fine ht, I deterht be Fortunately, my friends had lent me a bullock dray to convey a portion of our stores as far as Darling Downs; but, having purchased a light spring cart, it was also loaded; and, flattering ave orders toand assisting our horses to drag the cart through the boggy road, we arrived, at about one o'clock in the , at Cowper's Plains, about ten miles from Brisbane

I now found my cart an impediment to our movements; but, as it had been an expensive article, I did not despair of its becoy country A few days afterwards, however, an accident settled the question; the horses ran aith it, and thereby the shaft was broken, and the spring injured, so that I was compelled to leave it; which I then did most cheerfully, as it is always easier to man to yield to necessity, than to adopt an apparently inconvenient measure by his own free will The load was removed to pack-horses, and we proceeded with co the hospitality of the settlers as we passed on, and carrying with us their best wishes