Volume II Part 15 (1/2)
The highest hill on the south-west point,42 feet, received the naiving an account of our cruise A contiguous reef stretched out from the west side of the island for the distance of a mile, beyond which was the open sea
This reef extended two miles and a half to the North-North-West and four miles and a half to the southward Our observations were h, imrees 18 rees 9 minutes West from Swan River
LEAVE HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS
May 23
From Record Hill we had perceived that the sea was quite clear to the north and west beyond the reef, and being satisfied that we had reached the extre, and passed about a mile and a half from the reef to the north of the island in 26 fatho the western side of the reefs, gradually deepened the water to 42 fathorees East six miles and a half
We then had no bottom with 50 and 60 fathoms until noon, e had 122 fathorees East eleven miles and a half, just barely visible froular that we should have had bottoroup, whereas, e had not proceeded half so far from the southern portion we had no bottom with 200 fathoms
(Footnote Their extent in latitude therefore nearly corresponded with the old chart; and the apparent confusion in the shape given the been seen and then extended towards each other)
To ascertain if there were any more reefs to the ard,steered West-South-West, sounding occasionally with 200 and 220 fatho thirty-two ers, of which,in convinced us, we steered to the northward
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
It may be proper to conclude our account of Houtroups instead of one, as was for separated from Easter Group by a channel, the least width of which is four e between the latter and the Northern Group is six miles wide The Abrolhos extend in a North-North-West direction forty-eight reatest width of Easter and Pelsart Groups being twelve miles in a West-South-West direction In Easter Group the outer reefs arethere four miles from the nearest, which is Rat Island In the Northern Group the islands are more detached than in the others, and North Island is separated from them by a distance of ten ularity and saroups, and between the that they are not connected with each other, but rest on the outer extre out froht southerly inclination, the depth (29 fathoreater by four fathoroup On either side of the Abrolhos, at the same distance froeneral nature of the bottorey sandy mud or marl, but in more exposed situations this is not so compact, whilst broken shells areresemblance to that within the Great Barrier Reefs
After leaving the Abrolhos, as I have narrated, our progress to the northas unusually slow, and between the parallels of 26 degrees 50 ot into soundings varying froreatest depth the shi+p was forty miles from the land, and twenty 's Island, at the south point of Sharks Bay In passing round the north-west extreet sight of Ritchie's Reef; but, on this occasion, as on our passage from the Victoria to Swan River, it was not seen, and as no bottoned position on the chart, it must either have a very different one or does not exist
PROCEED TO THE COAST
The part of the North-west coast that had not been seen by Captain King, co a short distance to the east of Depuch Island, it was resolved that our survey of that part should begin there, and on the 9th of June the Beagle reached an anchorage off a sandy bay on the north-east side of that island As we drew near our progress was i the forenoons, which we found to prevail during our stay, being stronger at the full and change of thedirectly fro the tean about daylight at south, gradually veering and drawing round to the eastward as the day advanced, and subsiding again as rapidly after noon, leaving the evening and night generally calm
SEARCH FOR WATER
A search was immediately made for the stream of fresh water reported to have been found by the French, in Freycinet's voyage, on Depuch Island
As our stock was now very much reduced, and as our stay on the coast depended on the supply we could procure here, ere greatly concerned to find that our exa appeared parched up; wells were forthwith coht, but at the depth of twenty-one feet the water that poured into them was salt
Fortunately Mr Bynoe found a reservoir of water in theup from the north end of the sandy beach, and about a ot about six tons of tolerable water, although the labour of carrying it on the reat, the only road lying through the valley, which, as may be inferred from the rounded stones it is streith, soe colureenstone of which the island is composed, present, as the sun falls on their iron rusty surface, an appearance as if the sides of the valley were lined with red warriors The section presented to our view, by the deepest e sank at the ht kind of mould for six feet, then a layer of sand and shells of the sa on a coarse soft kind of reddish sandstone
FORESTIER GROUP
Depuch is the centre of a string of islands which bears the na the coast at the distance of fro about eightan elevation of 514 feet; whereas the smaller islands, sorass, are none of theh They are of a forritty yellow sandstone, in many places quite honeycombed, with some low sandhills superih Depuch Island is one vast pile of reddish-coloured blocks, scattered about in the greatest possible confusion, so basaltic columns, its outline from seaward appears even In the valleys, and on some of the ht layers of soil, affording nourishrass, a few bushes, and several stunted eucalypti; but on the whole the vegetation of the island is extrehest point we had a view over the reat distance It appeared to be flat, with the exception of some isolated rocky hills, of a forht, and about six miles froht miles a very remarkable pyra frorees West Froe patches of the level country, we inferred that they were covered with a salt efflorescence; and it is probable that a very great portion of it is occasionally flooded, being cut up by a nu tides, especially when they occur simultaneously with the north-inds that prevail on this coast during the roup of islands is so connected with the main by extensive sandbanks, that at loater it is possible to walk across to them; and of this facility the natives no doubt avail themselves to procure turtle
It appears indeed to be only on such occasions that they can visit Forestier Group, asno traces of rafts on this portion of the coast Depuch Island would seem to be their favourite resort; and we found several of their huts still standing They were constructed of boughs and twigs fixed in the ground, and joined overhead in a circular shape Over this was thrown a loose rass
NATIVE DRAWINGS
The natives are doubtless attracted to the place partly by the reservoirs of water they find a the rocks after rain, partly that theythe various objects that attract their attention, on the s the hard red outer coating, and baring to view the natural colour of the greenstone, according to the outline they have traced Much ability is displayed in many of these representations, the subjects of which could be discovered at a glance The number of specimens was immense, so that the nativesthe period of ti, as I examined with interest the various objects represented--the huures, the animals, the birds, the weapons, the doe life--on the curious frame of mind that could induce these uncultivated people to repair, perhaps at stated seasons of the year, to this lonely picture gallery, surrounded by the ocean-wave, to admire and add to the productions of their forefathers No doubt they expended on their works of art as much patience and labour and enthusiaselo in adorning the walls of St Peter or the Vatican; and perhaps the admiration and applause of their fellow countrye of popes and princes, and the laudation of the civilized world, to the great masters of Italy There is in the hue in a sort of minor creation--to tread hues that revolve within it, and to form, from its own ideas, a mimic representation of the actual world This is the source of all art and all poetry; of every thing, in fact, which tends to adorn and refine our nature It is this uncontrollable desire to work on and fashi+on the rough ives the first iress of improvement And wherever we discern the faintest indication that such a principle is at work, there we may securely hope that development will ultimately take place Until we find a nation which has never attee from the circle of its mere animal wants--which has never exhibited the least inclination to develop the , but is absolutely indifferent to ornament--which leaves its weapons uncarved, its skin unpainted, free froeneral efficacy of civilization These savages of Australia, as we call them, who have adorned the rocks of Depuch Island with their drawings, have in one thing proved theyptian and the Etruscan, whose works have elicited so much admiration and afforded food to so many speculations--nahtest trace of indecency