Volume I Part 27 (1/2)
REMARKABLE HEADLANDS PORT STEPHENS
I have before spoken of the change in the features of this portion of the eastern coast Here a nuht, suddenly presented themselves to our vieo of theinal names of Yacaba and Tomare, constitute the entrance points of Port Stephens The sea-face of Toh line of cliffs, fro only a narrow entrance When in this I noticed that a round hill at the south end of a distant range, was over the opening between the first island and the northern shore of the harbour Within the entrance are extensive sandbanks, leaving between them and the south shore a narrow, and in some parts deep, channel, subject to a rapid streae estuary, about fifteen th, contracted near the centre to a width of about a mile, which is further lessened by the presence of a woody islet, the same I have before alluded to Nearly two le anchored off the settle village called Carrington, on the western shore of the harbour
TAHLEE
On the side of a hill, half a mile to the ard, is the residence of the superintendent, a situation which, to enhance the pleasure of our visit, was held by Captain PP King, RN Tahlee, the name of this spot, surpassed in beauty all I have ever seen in Australia It stands on the crest of a steep grassy slope, over which are scattered numerous se, interspersed with golden fruit, contrasting char At the foot of this declivity, a screen of trees rising to a considerable height, alh breaks here and there allow small patches to be seen, athhich a native canoe occasionally glides to and fro along the water on a fine calreatly enhance the beauty of the scene They belong to a party of natives who have taken up their quarters near Tahlee, and who, though by no means a fine race, have always been well disposed towards Europeans
Unfortunately they areacquired the habit fro woman and her husband form part of the dohted as surprised with the richness of the vegetation, when compared with its dry parched appearance at Sydney--another of the striking contrasts characteristic of Australia
At Captain King's table I tasted the wonga-wonga pigeon; it is the largest of any of the Australian kinds, and the flesh is very white and rich It is a difficult bird to shoot, as it always keeps in the thickest foliage, and is strong and quick on the wing
Through the kindness of the same friend I was also enabled to enjoy a ride into the country, during the interval between the observations for rating the chronometers
RIVER KARUAH
I had to ascend the Karuah river, flowing into the north-west corner of Port Stephens, for twelve miles, to a place called Boorral, the furthest point at which it is navigable, and where all goods are landed for the Company's stations up the country Mr Ebsworth the treasurer of the Coe, al two picturesque reaches of the Karuah
About two h and steep banks, densely covered with creepers, acacias, and other vegetation of a tropical character, all quitein festoons, the ends of which are ie of the Company's stock,in reaching Stroud, about seven her up on the eastern bank of the river It is the head-quarters of the Coe, each cottage having its neat little garden I was very e, and was delighted to find the inhabitants of a re such vivid recollection of tastes so characteristic of English the land in the neighbourhood of Stroud, one of which was by what they call ringing the trees; that is to say, they cut off a large circular band of bark, which, destroying the trees, renders theer of this practice was, that in stor the lives of persons or stock passing In the thickets near Stroud, great numbers of the Lyre Bird are found They receive their names from the shape of their tails, which one could hardly suppose so s no other beauty, could possess
TRIP UP THE COUNTRY
At Mr White's hospitable cottage, I entlemen on their way to the Hunter river, and as fortunately the route I proposed taking, lay in that direction, we started together early the nextthe Karuah, our road for so path between very steep hills Six e trending North-West froh, the debris from which enrich the flats of the Karuah on its eastern, and the Willia to soalloped dohile hunting wild cattle, thesport known in Australia--useful, inas down to the plains and enticing away the tah nature of the country, in which the sport is pursued
WILD CATTLE
The wild cattle invariably keep on high ranges, and froet at, and it is only to leeward that one can approach theled out, and after a desperate and trying gallop over a rugged country, the huntsside one of these Kings of the Forest, and wondering how an aniet over the country at such a pace Ju round others, he at last finds hi a pistol fro up so as ales a well directed ball just behind the fore shoulder This is the most critical moment Great command of your horse is required, for the bull, if not e on his pursuer, and puts his nerves and judgment to a severe test
On these occasions almost incredible feats of horsemanshi+p are performed; and nearly precipitous slopes are descended I have seen similar exploits nowhere but in Chile, where horses are ridden down the sides of frightful ravines on their haunches at half speed for bets; but in that country the severity of the bit gives the rider a power over his steed unknown elsewhere
INCIVILITY OF A SETTLER
We crossed the Williams river, about fifteen miles South-West from Stroud, and after nearly another hour's ride came to a place called Wallaroba I was here doomed to experience the only instance of incivility I ever found in Australia It was late in the afternoon of a cold blustering day, and having breakfasted early, ere prompted to test the hospitality of a Mr Chap It was the only one we had seen during the day, and knowing the possibility of our being h coats, and rode up to the house as s in the gateway of the garden fronting the house, which he nearly filled; but although presenting a John Bull's exterior, there was a great deficiency of the national character within After introducing ourselves we asked for a little milk, but were refused on the plea that there was none at the station Our surly inforhtat the nu near, and then at the speaker, we turned and left hiust
(Footnote Escaped convicts, who live by plundering the settlers, taking also their lives if any resistance is offered I reentlereat value, and the owner thought he would try an experi in a jocular manner, that he would tie a card with his address round the aniht knohere to return hie to say his experiment succeeded, as the horse was sent back a short tiht at the inn to which we had been directed, and nextdifferent There had been a hoar frost during the night, and theAbout ten ht me to the end of my journey at Cam yr Allyn, the residence of Mr Boydell A few miles from this place, I passed the house of a Mr Townsend, the road close to which was literally through a garden of roses, which in the freshness of the rance
Mr Boydell's residence is on a rich spot of ground, on the banks of the Allyn river, which runs a North-North-West, and distant about six miles to the eastward, where it attains an elevation of three or four thousand feet
SAGACITY OF THE HORSE
The country in the neighbourhood is very hilly, and intersected by deep narrow valleys or ravines I was very acity displayed by the horses in crossing these They et near the botto down at a ain an impetus that shall carry them up the opposite acclivity The first tiht, I iined he was about to run aith , he made a rush in a doard direction and was across the valley before I could look round
All the hills in this part of the country, showed singular sloping sides to the South-West, whilst on the opposite, they were alenerally found on their sides, and granite on their summit On the Allyn, I noticed the same kind of rich limestone, that I found on the west bank of the Karuah, two miles within the entrance These two spots are about thirtyto the transition series, and on the shore of Port Stephens, they consist of porphyry, basalt, and greenstone