Part 4 (1/2)
”The cottages, bridges, villas, towers, rocks, and dark ruins of Gothic antiquity, are in unison with the surrounding objects, and the attention is frequently called fro the beauties of nature to pause on the works of art In the centre of the long valley which stretches to Llangollen, is erected a most stupendous aqueduct, by which the canal is conveyed froth of this a work of art and human industry, is, I was informed, three hundred yards, the aqueduct composed of cast iron, is supported on fifty stone pillars and arches, and the view of this irand beyond description, and contributes hten the effect produced by the whole scenery; for here grandeur and sublimity sit enthroned on the mountains, and solitude and human privacy, with their attendant charms, have fixed their abode in the vallies
”The beauties of the Vale of Llangollen certainly exceed every idea I had forrandeur, and on e, the
”LINES ON VISITING LLANGOLLEN
'Much have I heard, Llangollen, of thy scenes, And the wild landscapes of thystrea, Thy snow-topt , Thy fruitful vallies deep, where oft between Rise harace the scene
Where solitude and calm contentment dwell, And contemplation roves each rocky dell, Or cliht To watch the sinking shades of evening light; To view the foa te roar, Mark the blue e the dusky cloud; Yet, till this hourscenes by fancy's pencil wrought, Or drest in poetry's enchanting hues, And all the flatt'ring colours of the muse; But if in winter's stor landscapes warm, In summer's smiles it surely stands confest, That he who draws thee fairest paints thee best'”
Having thus seen the various a records, which so iven to the world, respecting the once faollen,” curiosity induced us to pay a visit to this ly in March, 1847, we made an excursion, in company with our respected Publisher, to the celebrated retreat of Plas Newydd; and through the favour of Mr Jacques, an intelligent and hospitable gentleollen, ere introduced to the present owners, Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, and met with a nified, and lady-like; totally free froid stateliness and pedantic formality, which a censorious world proverbially attributes to a state of elderly e remains in the same condition as in the days of Lady Eleanor and Miss Ponsonby; but its present possessors have introduced several judicious alterations in the interior, which, though carried out in strict harn of its forhtfully situated, and is well-adapted to realize the notion of the poet--
”'Tis pleasant froreat Babel And not feel the crush;”
but the site is not well chosen for developing the ollen affords; and, indeed, the entire arrangeestive rather of another poetical reat favour with anchorites and recluses--”Retire, the world shut out” We cannot agree with Miss Seward, who describes this herenius, taste, and sentiment” It is rather fantastical than tasteful, and savours more of eccentricity than sentiment In the Gothic entrance, there are undoubtedly many fine specimens of carved ork, some of which we suspect were the plunder of despoiled convents and churches during the continental wars of the last century; but classical, led in odd confusion, and with ”most admired disorder” The roos; the prospect fro-room is flat and tah ss of the paintedin the library, are re effect to the eye of the artist or the ade yet contains ed to the former owners; whose portraits adorn the fanciful little boudoir Disguised as they are by the strangeness of their costume, we should not like to hazard any opinion of our own as to their personal charms; especially as Miss Seward has been sous ”all about theossip says of the ”ladies,” whom she rhapsodizes as ”the enchantresses”
of Plas Newydd--
”Lady Eleanor is of ht, and somewhat beyond the _embonpoint_ as to plulow of luxuriant health She has not fine features, but they are agreeable; enthusiasm in her eye, hilarity and benevolence in her smile Exhaustless is her fund of historic and traditionary knowledge, and of every thing passing in the present eventful period
She expresses all she feels with an ingenuous ardour, at which, the cold-spirited beings stare I am informed that both these ladies read and speak es Of the Italian poets, especially of Dante, they are warm admirers Miss Ponsonby, somewhat taller than her friend, is neither slender nor otherwise, but very graceful Easy, elegant, yet pensive, is her address and manner
”Her voice, like lovers' watched, is kind and low”
A face rather long than round, a complexion clear but without bloom, with a countenance which, from its soft melancholy, has a peculiar interest If her features are not beautiful, they are very sweet and feh the pensive spirit within perive mirth to her smile, they increase its sweetness, and, consequently, her power of engaging the affections We see, through her veil of shading reserve, that all the talents and accomplishments which enrich the mind of Lady Eleanor, exist, with equal powers, in this her char friend”
We commend these pen and ink portraits to the notice of our readers without controversy; and the ratify their curiosity stillfro, with all due fidelity, excellent likenesses of the ”Ladies of Llangollen;” each, as _Ha the treasured relics which the cottage now contains, ere shewn the veritable crutch-headed walking stick, on which Lady Eleanor used to support her aged steps, when ra arounds of her mountain-home; and we also saw and handled the broad-brie to have been senius of a Seward, to have written an ode to that venerable head-dress! and in good truth, one ht almost fancy we heard the spirit of that a us, like _Gesler's_ captain, ”bon and honour it” Seriously, every little particular connected with the history and habits of the departed ”Ladies” is so anxiously prized at Llangollen, that we felt very grateful for the prompt kindness hich the present worthy possessors of the unique residence contributed to our information and ae of such of our readers as associate their notions of ”old ard for the canine and feline tribes, that Lady Eleanor Butler possessed a favourite dog of the turnspit-breed, called ”Trust;”
that Miss Ponsonby had a small white poodle, named ”Busy;” and that they had a joint interest in a popular cat, answering to the nains;” all of which four-footed doarden walks or at their quiet fire-side
The little domain of Plas-Newydd, if situated in some localities, would be esteemed a miniature paradise, but planted as it is a loveliness, its limited and soeht have suited the peculiar tastes and habits of the ”recluses;” but it is certainly very far inferior to the picturesque effect, which landscape gardening in the present day could _there_ produce The prettiest portions of thesea ro streay bed; and the rural walk by the gothic fount, into which a pellucidthe reuardian 'lion,' (which, under the name of a 'bear,' has been noted by an author e have quoted;) the melancholy quadruped is now considerably ”used up,” and excites a laugh at the burlesque on the ure and shrivelled hide present Plas-Newydd is unquestionably a delightful residence; and its adjacent pleasure grounds and gardens affordfacilities for those who love to make a practical study of horticulture; to ruminate amidst its tranquil retreats over the published works of some favourite authors; or to ”meditate,”
like the patriarch, at ”even-tide” on the wonders and glories of Eternal Power Apart therefore froular history of the ”Ladies of Llangollen” has invested this fair spot of earth, it presents to the tourist certain attractions, which the reflective explorer of the lovely vallies of the Dee should not neglect
We heard from some of the older inhabitants several anecdotes of the benevolence and charity of the departed ”Ladies,” whose hbourhood It has been said that on religious subjects, these ancient friends were divided in opinion; one being a Roman Catholic and the other a Protestant; but the parish clerk, an intelligent old ularly attended the services in the Church of Llangollen, and received the Sacrae during the last illness of Lady Eleanor Butler, from the vicar With all their eccentricity, their attach, and fervent character; else would they never have forsworn in the full blooant ease of courtly life for the dulland intellect, Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were no common persons; it ood old age and died honoured and respected;” and if ever the beings of a brighter and holier sphere are perlimpses on the world which they have left, their spirits may sometimes hover over the sacred spot where their ashes repose, and haunt thecurrent by the lowly church-yard of Llangollen
VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY
The picturesque ruins of this venerable structure stand in a lovely and sequestered valley, about two htful and inviting road as ever rambler need wish to tread
The Rev John Williams, in his learned description of this ancient monastery, says:
”The abbey was founded about the year 1200, {58a} and in conformity with the rule {58b} of the Cistercian fraternity, was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary The naenerally known to the Welsh had, however, a particular reference to the locality where it was situated: thus, 'Monachlog y Glyn,' 'Monachlog Glyn Egwestl,' 'Monachlog Pant y Groes' And in Latin it was called 'Abbatia {58c} de Valle Crucis,' and 'Abbatia de Llanegwest'
”The remains of the abbey extant at the present day consist of the church, and of a building on the southern side, part of which sees, and part to have been the refectory, with the dor, of which the northern side has been al of its roof, except in the eastern aisle of the southern transept In the midst of these hallowed precincts the rubbish is heaped up to a great height, caused, probably, by the fall of the northern wall, and by the remains of the roof:--the pave, is entirely concealed, and ash-trees grow luxuriantly upon theto the picturesque effect of the ruin, but saddening the heart of the antiquary We are unable, therefore, to determine the number of piers that formed the side of the nave; but from the space between the western end and the central piers, at the intersection of the transepts, we should conjecture this nu four arches on either side The choir ithout aisles, but each transept had one on the eastern side, which seems to have been used as a chapel The oldest portion of the church is the choir; the eastern end of which was lighted by three bold and lofty lancet arches, rising froht above the level of the pave, and by two proportionably sable was probably a sable is y of the western end of the nave In each of the northern and southern walls of the choir is a lancet ; and two siht, occur in each of the eastern walls of the transept aisles