Part 7 (2/2)
Beef Khao Soi SERVES 6 6 OR MORE OR MORE
The Chile Paste1 whole dried red New Mexico or ancho chile2 to 4 whole dried chiles de arbol or japonais chiles or other small hot dried red chiles2 teaspoons coriander seeds teaspoon curated nutround cinnaetable oil3 arlic cloves, chopped fine Toast lightly in a dry skillet over rant, first the New Mexico chile, followed by the chiles de arbol, coriander seeds, curant, durind Then add each to a food processor Add the nuter Pulse to coetable oil overAdd the shallots, stirring theolden After 5Reduce the heat a bit if the oil is spattering or the shallots begin to brown darkly Cook about 10 olden Pour the oil through a fine strainer into a heatproof container and reserve it Spread the shallot mixture out on a couple of thicknesses of paper towels to cool briefly and crisp
Add to the food processor and puree to a thick paste The chile paste can be used ihtly covered for up to several days
The Noodles1 pounds thin dried egg noodles, about the size of fettuccine, Chinese or Italian2 tablespoons coconut milk, freshly arlic oil and vegetable oil for deep-frying Take one-third of the noodles (8 ounces), break thee bowl, and cover them ater Let them sit in the water until they become pliable, about 30 minutes Strain off the water and scatter the noodles on a clean dish towel to dry, patting thehly
While that batch of noodles softens, bring a large pot of salted water to a vigorous boil and in it cook the re 1 pound of noodles until quite tender, a bit softer and creamier than for al dente pasta Drain the cooked noodles and place thee bowl Toss them with the coconut ether Reserve them at room te the noodles Add to it the shallot-garlic oil and at least 2 inches of vegetable oil and heat to 350F In several batches, deep-fry the 8 ounces of noodles that were soaked and patted dry Fry until crispy and lightly golden, about 2 minutes Remove with a slotted spoon or strainer to paper towels
The Broth and Beef1 pounds boneless top sirloin steak, sliced across the grain into thinstrips, about inch across and 2 inches long1 teaspoons curry powder1 cup coconut cream (not cream of coconut), freshly made if possible3 cups coconut milk, freshly made if available cup plus 2 tablespoons soy sauce1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce, or ar, or brown sugar cup sliced scallion rings, both green and white portions cup chopped cilantro leaves2 teaspoons to 1 tablespoon fresh lie the steak pieces with the curry powder
In a large heavy skillet with high sides, or a Dutch oven, bring the coconut creah heat Stir in the chile paste and reduce the heat to medium Cook for about 2it into the mixture well, and cook until the meat loses its raw color Pour in the coconutthe heat as needed to keep a bare siar Sier, until the broth has thickened just enough to have some body to it and the steak is quite tender Add the scallions in the last 2 or 3Taste and addMix in cilantro and enough liar and coconut Keep the broth warm If it thickens beyond soupy, add a little water to thin it
Putting It All Together1 tablespoon ground dried chiles de arbol or japonais chiles or other fairly hot dried red chiles, wares, from 2 medium limesAbout cup finely diced shallotsCilantro leavesThai fish sauceAbout 1 cup packaged Thai or Chinese pickled cabbage or reens, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped, optionalChopped peanuts and/or shredded coconut, optional Place as garnishes into individual bowls the chile in oil, limes, shallots, cilantro, Thai fish sauce, and optional pickled cabbage, peanuts, and/or coconut
In soup plates or large individual bowls, arrange equal portions of the boiled noodles Ladle broth over each portion, distributing the steak equally Scatter with the fried noodles and serve Guests garnish their bowls as they wish, fros Start with chopsticks to slurp the noodles, then alternate with Chinese ceramic spoons or other soupspoons to finish the broth
INDIA
”WHAT THE hell IS THAT?” BILL POINTS OUTSIDE, where explosions light the night sky on our plane's approach to the Murief,” Cheryl says, ”it looks like Baghdad out there”
”Well, if crazies of so at us, they must be poor shots None of the blasts seem close”
Everyone has told us to expect the unpredictable in India, but this seems pretty extreme for an introductory howdy-do
It is, as we soon find out Our arrival coincides with the biggest night of the Hindu New Year celebration known as Diwali, the Festival of Lights All the city is ablaze, though in a fashi+on as under control as anything ever gets here A greeter from our hotel, the Taj Mahal, welcomes us at the airport and explains the occasion ”This is our biggest annual religious holiday and also the ht of the year, kind of like a combination of Christmas and New Year's Eve on the saht and for the next couple of days”
His account continues while he escorts us to the hotel limousine for transportation into the heart of the city, provided as a part of our package for an executive-club-floor roo With a special Internet rate, the deluxe room costs only a little , but the staff extends special attention and courtesies to the guests, including airport transfers, a club lounge with coistration and checkout, and a private butler-cue Even at a normal time, and especially now it seems, the city formerly known as Bombay can be as chaotic as any metropolis on earth, but we've ensured ourselves a means to retreat at will to one of its caloes on, ”you will see lights everywhere because on this night the Goddess Lakshmi, the provider of wealth, descends from the heavens to bless people with prosperity Fahts so she will find their homes” When he turns us over to our driver, he tells us, ”Ask hi you don't understand on your ride dohich will take a little longer tonight than the usual hour” Every neighborhood we pass through, even the slu with candles, bonfires, lanterns of all kinds, and strings of twinkling white lights
”Incredible!” Cheryl exclaih I know it's partially an illusion”
”Light in our religion,” the driver says, ”represents goodness and spiritual wisdonorance”
”What about the flowers?” Cheryl asks, peering out at houses and shanties bedecked with golden olds and other blossos to Lakshive flowers to friends and fa with sweets and other festive foods”
”The wo on the streets,” Bill says, ”look just as radiant, dressed in glorious silks”
”That's part of the celebration,” the driver explains ”Families who can afford it et new dresses and jewelry for Diwali”
”Oh,” Billthat the notion ca so raptly
Our car reaches the Taj Mahal right atup to a se Bernard Shaw stayed in this building not , well before the h-rise tower, he claira It's easy to understand the sentiment The edifices differ substantially, of course, but both are architectural wonders; this one designed in an aam of Asian, Moorish, and Florentine styles The other sports a in, to be sure, but our nest sustains roreets us in the reception area, escorts us to our roolasses of cha you a deck of cards,” he says, ”if you want to celebrate Diwali that way”
”What do you mean?” Bill, the poker player, asks
”It's a tradition to gamble on cards today The Goddess Parvati played dice with her husband Lord shi+va on Diwali night and decreed that people should gamble then, too Winners are supposed to prosper in the next year and losers get another chance for success the following year The real losers are people who don't try their luck, because legend says they will be reborn as donkeys in their next life”
”You better bring us a deck,” Cheryl says quickly Bill decrees we'll play two hands of Texas hold 'e us both a chance to win Bill takes the first pot and then folds his cards on the second hand, forfeiting to Cheryl Oureven the fate of the deal With pure good luck and no advance planning, we've arrived in Muht hour on the most exultant day of the year If it's all about karma, aswith a full tank
In tourish nut One of our ues, a master journalist at the New York Times, New York Times, told us before we left, ”No matter how much you like to chart your own course on a trip, India rules It will always throw you tricky curves” In recognition of the difficulties, roup tour or pay an expert to handle their planning in detail Neither option appeals to us; we've never traveled like that and don't want to begin now Perhaps we're too stubborn, a complaint each of us has made about the other a few times before told us before we left, ”No matter how much you like to chart your own course on a trip, India rules It will always throw you tricky curves” In recognition of the difficulties, roup tour or pay an expert to handle their planning in detail Neither option appeals to us; we've never traveled like that and don't want to begin now Perhaps we're too stubborn, a complaint each of us has made about the other a few ti about the situation with Cheryl, Bill carefully picks hotel companies in our two destinations, Mumbai and the state of Kerala, that have the resources and experience to deal with all our local arrange to his research, they charge a premium for their accommodations and services, but that seems reasonable in India if they can deliver The Taj Mahal certainly does, at least for guests on its executive-club floors
In our rooold cover the bed, s, and chairs, matched handsoht sprays of orchids play counterpoint to the white-and-graythe quarters, the desk provides hookups for every iinable electronic device, and for their downti the gadgets after our poker game, Cheryl says, ”We could probably launch the space shuttle froht now just by the , we're off to explore our neighborhood on foot For ht continues Crackers pop loudly all around us, and ladies parade past in their finery Other locals go back to work Crowds surround the massive arch in front of the hotel called the Gateway of India, waiting for boat transportation or trying to peddle goods to the captive audience When Gandhi and his allies ended British colonial rule in 1947, the last of the occupying soldierssail ho behind some institutional infrastructure and a widespread use of the English language
While hawkers open stands on the sidewalks and a h the streets, daring pedestrians to dally Many of the vehicles are black-and-yellow Ao Rusty and battered, with meters welded on the top of a front fender, they look coe paper at the hotel, the drivers resist government efforts to modernize because they can repair the old cars theasoline on the market The taxis, as well as the buses and trucks, flaunt strings of olds and other flowers, pale, red, and fuchsia shades