Volume I Part 27 (2/2)
About twoto Gloucester, we have a prospect frooodly vale and country Gloucester is a handsome city, considerable for the church and monu gallery is rare, being through a passage of twenty-five yards in a led cloister, and was, I suppose, either to show the skill of the architect, or so unseen in a recess in the ht hear whatever was spoken at either end This is above the choir, in which lies buried King Stephen[50] under a e The new library is a noble though a private design I was likewise pleased with the Severn gliding so sweetly by it
The Duke's house, the castle works, are now alhts did I see the town, considering how fatal the siege had been a few years before to our good King
[Footnote 50: King Stephen was buried at Favershay Evelyn alluded to is that of Robert Curthose, Duke of Norust, 1654 We set out toward Worcester, by a way thickly planted with cider fruit We deviated to the Holy Wells, trickling out of a valley through a steep declivity toward the foot of the great Malvern Hills; they are said to heal 's evil, leprosy, sore eyes, etc Ascending a great height above theland from South Wales, we had the prospect of all Herefordshi+re, Radnor, Brecknoch, Monmouth, Worcester, Gloucester, Shropshi+re, Warwick, Derbyshi+res, and 's road, toward Bristol, etc; so as I esteeust, 1654 This evening we arrived at Worcester, the Judges of assize and Sheriff just entering as we did Viewing the town the next day, we found the Cathedral much ruined by the late wars, otherwise a noble structure The town is neatly paved and very clean, the goodly river Severn running by it, and standing in a ust, 1654 We passed next through Warwick, and saw the castle, the dwelling house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture noble It is built on an ereen, a woody and plentifully watered country; the river running so delightfully under it, that itseats one should ht be reat two-handed sword, staff, horse-arht-errant Warwick is a fair old town, and hath one church full of ancientviewed these, I went to visit h a melancholy old seat, yet in a rich soil
Hence to Sir Guy's grot, where they say he did his penances, and died It is a squalid denon a goodly streaht be, it were capable of being made a most romantic and pleasant place Near this, ere showed his chapel and gigantic statue hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are likewise divers other caves cut, and some very capacious
The next place to Coventry The cross is re, comparable to any I had ever seen, except that of Cheapside in London, now demolished This city has many handsome churches, a beautiful wall, a fair free school and library to it; the streets full of great shops, clean and well paved At going forth the gate, they show us the bone, or rib, of a wild boar, said to have been killed by Sir Guy, but which I take to be the chine of a whale
[Sidenote: LEICESTER]
4th August, 1654 Hence, riding through a considerable part of Leicestershi+re, an open, rich, but unpleasant country, we cahold, a seat of ham, the shi+re town of Rutland, pretty and well built of stone, which is a rarity in that part of England, where most of the rural parishes are but ofas wretchedly as in the most i idle and sluttish The country (especially Leicestershi+re) ust, 1654 To the old and ragged city of Leicester, large and pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chies; however, famous for the tomb of the tyrant, Richard III, which is now converted to a cistern, at which (I think) cattle drink
Also, here in one of the churches lies buried the nificent Cardinal Wolsey John of Gaunt has here also built a large but poor hospital, near which a wretch has made him a house out of the ruins of a stately church
Saw the ruins of an old Roht to be of Janus Entertained at a very fine collection of fruits, such as I did not expect to ood ust, 1654 I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshi+re, famous for the tenure of the Barons (Ferrers), who hold it by taking off a shoe froh the street, unless redeemed with a certain piece of ilded shoes nailed up on the castle gate, which seee and fair Hence, ent by Brook, a very sweet seat and park of the old Lady Ca to the Duke of Buckinghaland, situate on the brow of a hill, built _a la moderne_ near a park walled in, and a fine wood at the descent
Noere co to Mr Heath, son of the late Lord Chief Justice of that na with the co by Belvoir Castle, built on a round e of hills, which affords a stately prospect, and is famous for its strenuous resistance in the late civil war
Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town and garrison Next, by Wharton House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth, a handso to the Marquis of Dorchester, and passed the famous river Trent, which divides the South froham
This whole town and county seely pleasant shi+re, full of gentry Here, I observed divers to live in the rocks and caves, much after the manner as about Tours, in France The church is well built on an eminence; there is a fair house of the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepont's; an ae streets, full of crosses; the relics of an ancient castle, hollowed beneath which are , and his hile there
This place is re the place where his Majesty first erected his standard at the beginning of our late unhappy differences
The prospects frohtful
15th August, 1654 We passed next through Sherwood Forest, accounted the land Then, Paplewick, an incomparable vista with the pretty castle near it Thence, stead Abbey, belonging to the Lord Byron, situatedmade a noble seat, accommodated as it is with brave woods and strealorious abbey church Next, by Mansfield town; then Welbeck, the house of the Marquis of Newcastle, seated in a bottom in a park, and environed oods, a noble yetNext to Worksop Abbey, almost demolished; the church has a double flat tower entire, and a pretty gate The s to the Earl of Arundel, and has to it a fair house at the foot of a hill in a park that affords a delicate prospect Tickel, a town and castle, has a very noble prospect
All these in Nottinghaust, 1654 We arrived at Doncaster, where we lay this night; it is a large fair town, faust, 1654 Passed through Pontefract; the castle faes both of late and ancient tiby the Rebels; it stands on a oodly show at a distance The Queen has a house here, and there are many fair seats near it, especially Mr
Pierrepont's, built at the foot of a hill out of the castle ruins We all alighted in the highway to drink at a crystal spring, which they call Robin Hood's Well; near it, is a stone chair, and an iron ladle to drink out of, chained to the seat We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of which we have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble seat), and in sight of divers other gentleoodly, fertile, atered, and wooded country, abounding with pasture and plenty of provisions
[Sidenote: YORK]
To York, the second city of England, fairly walled, of a circular for vessels of considerable burden on it; over it is a stone bridge eer than any I have seen in England, with a wharf of hewn stone, which makes the river appear very neat Butis St Peter's Cathedral, which of all the great churches in England had been best preserved froious, by co the nificent piece of Gothic architecture The screen before the choir is of stone carved with flowers, running work and statues of the old kings
Many of the reat rarity in these days and at this time, they showed me a Bible and Common Prayer Book covered with criilt; also a service for the altar of gilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, ewer, plates, chalices, patins, etc, with a gorgeous covering for the altar and pulpit, carefully preserved in the vestry, in the hollohereof rises a plentiful spring of excellent water I got up to the tohence we had a prospect toward Durham, and could see Ripon, part of Lancashi+re, the fah, and all the environs of that adardens, and tennis court; also the King's house and church near the castle, which was modernly fortified with a palisade and bastions The streets are narrow and ill-paved, the shops like London