Part 16 (1/2)
TRAVELS
through NORTH AMERICA,
during the YEARS 1825 AND 1826
By His Highness, BERNHARD, DUKE OF SAXE-WEIMAR EISENACH
IN TWO VOLUMES
VOL II
PHILADELPHIA: CAREY, LEA & CAREY--CHESNUT STREET
1828
Skerrett--Ninth Street, Philadelphia
TRAVELS, _&c_
CHAPTER XV
_Journey to Charleston, and Residence in that City-- from the 11th to the 19th of December, 1825_
On the 11th of December, ere prepared before five o'clock to travel in the e from Columbia to Charleston, one hundred and twentybefore, involved himself in a quarrel with a watchiven him a stab with a knife It was feared that the watchman, as the father of a family, would die The coachman was ied to ree was unable to find another white driver sooner, and according to law, no negro could convey the United States' mail
Our company was very pleasant; I especially re Mr Ra well-inforaree in a wretched boat, and on the right bank of the river, passed through a little place called Granby, which formerly had been a German settlement, called Saxe-Gotha
The road ithout exception, sandy, swae travelled very slowly, and for the greater part of the way, I left it behind, being on foot It was nearly a continued forest, composedin such quantities, that the appearance was far froardenia trees increased, and also of the _yucca gloriosa_, which until noere situated principally in the neighbourhood of the dwellings We also saw more live oaks here, of which the ti, because it does not rot, and cannon-shot in striking it produce no splinters
Towards evening, we passed the village of Orangeburg, ooden houses We supped in a solitary house, and at the sa from Charleston, in which we took seats It had been built for General La Fayette, and was naht: the day had been pleasant, the night, however, was extremely cold: I suffered considerably, as I sat upon the coach-box, where I always took e of free air and prospect
We travelled during the forenoon of the 12th of Deceh a forest The number of live oaks increased, and they were really beautiful The solitary fan-like macaw trees, which we took notice of, were small The yuccasCharleston, was Dorchester We then passed by an old church, nearly in ruins, called St Andrehich has survived since the tiovernment It stands in the midst of a venerable church-yard, under lofty live oaks and hickories, with palraves The whole had a picturesque aspect The plantations succeeded each other reeable appearance, and every thing showed th, in the afternoon, we left the continued forest, and entered upon an open swauished as a seaport, lies upon a tongue of land, formed by the rivers Ashley and Cooper: we crossed the Ashley to reach the city A causeway, constructed of fascines, passes through the swamp to the ferry The river is three-quarters of a ht-horse teae, which formerly crossed the river here, was destroyed by a severe storht bank, in the vicinity of Charleston, an entirely novel spectacle expanded itself to my view The houses of the suburb, were, for the e trees, with most splendid ripe fruit, monthly roses in full bloo plants displayed thereater part of the habitations have piazzas and spacious balconies Upon the walls and colureat nuhted with this southern climate
Charleston has a population of forty thousand inhabitants, about twenty-five thousand of these are free The city is regularly built, the streets cross each other at right angles The smallest streets are paved, all have brick side-walks The paving-stone is imported from the northern states, on this account it is an expensive article, and the paving of the streets can only be gradually effected In the suburb we passed through a street which was a log causeway The principal part of the houses are, it is true, built of wood, and all are, as I ales, on account of the frequent prevalence of severe teood taste I took up my abode in Jones's Hotel, a well supported and finely situated house, whose host was a mulatto I had the pleasure to eneral of the arton I entleman who had travelled overnor of the state, Mr Wilson, with his young and accoe, spoke French, German, Spanish, and Italian, and understood Latin and Greek; lastly, Major Massias, ared me to remain at home a whole day The weather was also unpleasant and storrees, which degree of cold is here extremely uncommon In the uished inhabitants: from Dr Tidyman, whom I had known in Philadelphia; from Mr Lowndes, to whom I had introductory letters; from Dr Johnson, mayor of the city; from Messrs Pitray and Viel, French eres, French consul; from Mr Bacott, hom I had arrived yesterday, and froers were also in the hotel, so that I did not lack entertain was related to ed in a conspiracy to murder all the white n was found out, and it was discovered that the original projectors were free negroes out of the limits of the state, who travelled in the northern section of the union, and in part were become Methodist preachers They had returned home and preached freedoislature of this state has adopted very severe precautionary laws against free negroes and mulattoes One of them is, that no individual of this description, if he have once left the state, shall be permitted to return The wife of our host, Jones, found herself in this predicae to New York, her native city, and now dared not to atteht a free black servant with me, he would have been taken from me, and put in custody till I should have left the state, or I must deposit a considerable security for him