Part 23 (1/2)

and the extremity of this island of Malaita is in 8; it is distant from the island of Santa Isabel 14 leagues; it has 5 or 6 islets at the extremity, which are, each of them, 2 leagues in circuit. There are two islets in the middle, between the two large islands. The name of the Isle of Ramos suggested itself for this Island of Malaita, because it was discovered on Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos).[225]

[223] The point of Meta is probably near the place where the chief of that name lived. _Vide_ page 203.

[224] ”Norueste sueste quarta de leste hueste” is the bearing given in the MS. The distance of 52 leagues very closely corresponds with the distance indicated on the present chart between the west end of Malaita and Ontong Java. (_Vide_ appendix: note iv.)

[225] Through an unconscious error in the translations by Mr.

Dalrymple and Capt. Burney of the account given by Figueroa, the name ”Isle of Ramos” has been applied in modern charts to an islet nearly in the middle of the pa.s.sage between Isabel and Malaita. For further particulars consult Note VI. of appendix.

”Coasting further along from this bay, we saw a fleet of more than seven large canoes making for the sh.o.r.e where there were fisheries. The canoes came on with us; and many Indians shot their arrows at us with great shouting. The 'maestre de campo,' on seeing their daring, ordered some muskets to be fired; and one Indian was killed and the rest took to flight. On the following day, which we made the 14th of April, running further along the coast to the east-south-east (?) we sailed nearly 6 leagues. Here the Indians came out to us in a friendly manner, bringing cocoa-nut and other things which we needed. Here we saw a hog, which was the first we had seen. The next day we went further out in quest of the point and extremity of this island, running to the south-east. From the bay to the point of the island, the coast ran north-west and south-east.

There are some islets near this point; and from this point to the bay is 14 leagues. I took the lat.i.tude and found it to be barely 9. At this point, two canoes came out to us with fighting-men, in order to question an Indian whom we had on board, one of the two we took from Meta. They shot their arrows at us; and when we fired a musket to frighten them, they fled.

”On the following day, which we reckoned the 16th of the month, being at the extremity of this island, we named it Cape Pueto;[226] and from here we discovered some islands to the south-east,[227] which are 9 leagues from this cape. Some lie north-by-west and south-by-east;[228] and others north-west and south-east. And we approached them this day with a fair wind, sailing to the south-east. We arrived at ten o'clock in the night at an island which was a league and a half in circuit; and there we anch.o.r.ed. It is low and beset with reefs. We sailed around it. It has many palms, is inhabited; and it was there we pa.s.sed the night. When it dawned, we were desirous to land but could not on account of the numerous shoals and reefs. It was named 'La Galera.' Here a canoe came off to us carrying 50 men whom we perceived to be ready for battle... .[229] It preceded us to another large island which was a league distant. It was soon joined by many canoes both small and large; and in (one of) them came a leading taurique. He came and approached us in a friendly manner, and gave us beads (chaquiza), of the kind they wear, which resemble those that are found in Puerto-viejo.[230] The 'maestre de campo' gave him a good reception; and in token of peace presented him with some things which we had on board. Soon the taurique commanded the men in the canoes to take the brigantine in tow and bring us into the harbour, which they did. After we were inside, the 'maestre de campo' landed with 18 soldiers; and I remained with 12 on board the brigantine. The Indians soon took up their weapons, and hurled stones at us, and jeered at us because we asked for provisions. Seeing their insolence, some shots were fired at them, and two Indians were killed.

Thereupon they fled, leaving their houses defenceless. This island is called in the language of the Indians, Pela.[231] And there is a chain of five islands, which lie east and west one with another. The first of these, which we came to, was at the east end, for we were pursuing our discoveries from East to West; it lies with the Cape Prieto north-west and south-east, 9 leagues from the said cape. It will be in circuit 12 leagues. It is well peopled by natives and has many huts and towns and ... .[232] To this island we gave the name of Buena Vista from its appearance; it seemed to be very fertile, and was well-peopled; and the rest are as above mentioned. They go naked, without any covering _whatever_, and have their faces patterned (tattooed).[233] There are many inhabited islands around. I took the lat.i.tude here, and found it to be 9 south of the equinoctial. It runs east and west.

[226] The name of this cape is spelt in three different ways in this MS., viz., Puerto, Pueto, and Prieto. The latter is that adopted in Figueroa's account. Puerto seems to be the correct name as no reason is given in the journal for using the epithet of ”black” (prieto); but the last is employed in the present chart.

[227] In the account of Figueroa this bearing is given as south-west, which, as pointed out by Pingre, Fleurieu, and Burney, is in contradiction to the other bearings, and was by all three authors replaced by that of ”south-east.”

[228] ”Norte sur quarta del norueste sueste.”

[229] As the meaning is obscure, I have here omitted the following: ”and coming close to us” which is followed in the Spanish by ”no nos dijo cosa nise movieron contra nosotros,” which I have left untranslated.

[230] A town in the province of Quito, in the kingdom of Peru.

[231] Gela is the present native name of the Florida Islands.

(Codrington's ”Melanesian Languages,” p. 522, _circa_). Consult Note VII. of the geographical appendix.

[232] ”Lugares formados y juntos.” These words, which I have not translated, are to be found unaltered in Figueroa's account, and have been rendered thus by Dalrymple ”places cultivated and enclosed.”

[233] ”Las caras labradas.”

”On Good Friday of this same year we went from this island to another a league distant. We found in it abundance of cocoa-nuts; and we placed a quant.i.ty on board the brigantine for our sustenance. Whilst we were at this island, a canoe came off to us with three Indians; they left us to go from there to the large island; and they offered us hogs, but we did not want them.

”On arriving at the large island, the 'maestre de campo' landed and came to a town which was on high-ground. Here they gave him two hogs, which he brought off with him to the s.h.i.+p, having met with no bad treatment; and we returned to pa.s.s the night at the islet (?). This day was Holy Sat.u.r.day. On the following day, which was the Feast of the Resurrection, we skirted the south coast of the island; and from here we went to another island, which is a league from it. On our arrival, there came off to us more than 20 canoes of fighting-men, who planned taking us to their town and capturing us, and displayed much delight amongst themselves. I ordered the anchor to be weighed that we might get to a better place, because we were almost touching the shoals. When the Indians saw that we were about to s.h.i.+ft our position, they got into their canoes in a great hurry with their bows and arrows, and clubs, and many stones; and in a very fierce manner they began to shoot their arrows and stones at us. Seeing their daring, we replied with the muskets; and many Indians were killed, and the whole were repulsed; and they rallied and came on to the attack with greater fury; but this time they suffered even more, and for the second time they were repulsed and routed. There were more than 700 Indians. We took three canoes; but afterwards we abandoned two and kept the other. Deserting their towns, they went off with many howls and cries to the higher land in the interior. Soon the 'maestre de campo' landed with 20 men: and he endeavoured to bring off some provisions to the brigantine, and to restore friends.h.i.+p with the natives; but from their dread of the muskets they would never approach; and they kept much in advance of them calling to each other by conch-sh.e.l.ls and with drums. Seeing that there was no help for it, we set fire to a house, after having taken possession of the island in the name of His Majesty, as in the case of the other islands; and we gave it the name of 'La Florida.' This island is in lat.i.tude 9 and lies east and west with the island of Buenavista. It is 25 leagues in circuit, and is a fine island in appearance, with many inhabitants, who are also naked as in the other islands; and they redden their hair, eat human flesh, and have their towns built over the water as in Mexico.[234]

[234] In the present day the natives of Florida built their houses on piles. See p. 60, of this work.

”This day we went on to other islands which are further to the east in the same lat.i.tude. The first has a circuit of 25 leagues. We had not resistance from them (the Indians); because they had already come to know that they could not overcome us, if we were prepared for them. To this island, we gave the name of San Dimas. We did not go to the remaining islands that we might not hinder ourselves. We named the one San German, and the other the Island of Guadalupe.” (_Vide_ Note VII. of the Geographical Appendix.)

”The next morning we went to another very large island which is on the south side of the five islands. In the middle of the way, or half-way between them, is an island which we named Sesarga. It is 8 leagues in circuit. This island is high and round and well-peopled; with plenty of food, _mames_ and _pa.n.a.les_[235] and roots and hogs [which have no grain to eat?]. In the middle of this island there is a volcano, which is continually emitting great smoke. It has a white streak which resembles a road descending from the higher parts down to the sea. This island is in lat.i.tude 9. With the island of Buenavista it lies north-west and south-east (?).[236] Five leagues from this island, there came out 5 canoes; and they gave us a fish, telling us by signs that we should go with them to their island, and that they would give us hogs. The Indians went away; and we slept this night at sea.

[235] Figueroa gives for _mames_, _ynanimes_; and for _pa.n.a.les_, _panays_. In the first instance, ”yams” are probably meant; whilst, in the second case, Burney suggests that by _panays_ the ”breadfruit” may be referred to. Fleurieu hints that it may be the application of the name of the ”parsnip” to some other vegetable.

The ”taro” is evidently here alluded to.

[236] In Note VII. of the Geographical Appendix, I have treated of the question relating to the identification of the islands which lie between Cape Prieto and the north coast of Guadalcanar, with the Spanish discoveries. In so doing, I have re-opened a discussion that excited considerable interest a century ago, but which has since, notwithstanding the efforts of Burney and Krusenstern, been almost forgotten. Those acquainted with these islands will recognise in Sesarga the present Savo.

”On the next day, which was the 19th of April, we arrived at the great island, which we had seen, and came upon a town of the Indians. There is a large river here; and there came out canoes to the brigantine, and some Indians who were swimming, and some women and boys. They gave us a rope, and towing us, carried us to the sh.o.r.e. When we were close to the beach, they began to throw stones at us, saying, 'Mate,' 'Mate,' meaning that they were going to kill us.[237] Some shots were fired, which killed two of them, and immediately they left us and fled. The 'maestre de campo' landed with 20 men, and took possession as in the case of the other islands. In the town was found, in small baskets, a large quant.i.ty of provisions, of roots, and ginger which is plentiful in this island.

We put on board the brigantine what we could, including a hog. The same evening, we embarked; and we gave this island the name of Guadalca.n.a.l and to the river that of Ortega. I took the lat.i.tude, and found it to be in 10. With the higher part of Buenavista, it lies north and south 9 leagues, and with that of Sesarga north-west and south-east. From here we determined to return to where we had left the s.h.i.+ps. We, therefore, started on the return voyage. Running back to the island of Santa Isabel, we pa.s.sed by the island of Sesarga, which is called in the language of the Indians 'Guali.' Pursuing our way, we came close to Cape Prieto. We sailed along the south coast and arrived at an island, 7 leagues from Cape Prieto, which lies with the island of Sesarga north-by-west[238] 15 leagues. The taurique of this island, Beneboneja by name, called it the island of Veru. It is a league from that of Santa Isabel. The pa.s.sage (entrada), which is on the south-east side of the island of Beru (Veru), has a fine harbour that is able to hold a thousand s.h.i.+ps: it is 6 leagues in length, has a depth of 12 to 8 fathoms, is very clear (of shoals), and has an outlet to the north-west a league in length.[239] This channel[240] runs west-north-west to the cape of this island, where there is a large town which has more than 300 houses. The Indians received us in a friendly manner, giving us a hog: and because they would not give us more than a hog, we seized three canoes; and when they saw that we had taken these canoes, they ransomed them, giving for two canoes two hogs. We saw in this island some pearls that the Indians brought, which they did not hold in much esteem. They also brought us some tusks[241] that seemed to belong to some large animal, of which they have many: and they told us that we should take them and give them back their canoe. I considered that we should restore their canoe and accept these tusks: but the 'maestre de campo' was not willing to do so. This island is in lat.i.tude 9?. We named it the island of Jorge.[242]

[237] There is here a strange coincidence. The natives in using the word ”mate”--a widely spread Polynesian word for ”dead”--were unconsciously making a correct use of the Spanish verb ”matar,” to kill.