Part 5 (1/2)

DEAR SIR,--Yours of 10th inst. is received. We would recommend for pistol cartridges our Wing Shot, No. 2 or No. 3 grain, or Western Sporting, _Fg_ or _FFg_ grain. Yours truly,

ORIENTAL POWDER MILLS.

THE HAZARD POWDER COMPANY, MANUFACTURERS OF GUNPOWDER, NEW YORK.

_Editor of The Rifle_:--

DEAR SIR,--Yours of the 9th just received. The difference of opinion is so varied regarding the best powder for pistol cartridges that we hesitate to recommend. The calibre may be .32 or .45; yet, if the pistol barrel be long, it requires for accurate shooting a much coa.r.s.er grain powder than does a short barrel. We enclose herewith our circular and diagram card, and remain,

Yours truly, THE HAZARD POWDER CO.

(EXTRACT FROM CIRCULAR.)

For pistol-shooting--A fine grain is preferred, of ”Electric,” ”American Sporting,” or ”Kentucky Rifle.”

In addition to the American brands of black powder mentioned is the American wood powder, which is favored by some pistol-shots on account of its non-fouling qualities. The English powder, Curtis & Harvey No. 3, is also excellent. It is quite clean and uniform, but its cost is very high, the expense of a pound being about $1.50. The American Powder Works'

products are used by many experts, the Hazard's Kentucky Rifle is also a favorite brand, but there are many opinions as to the best powder; if a shooter get good results with a certain brand, it is wisdom to use it exclusively, if possible, as the different brands vary considerably in strength and effect elevations. Mr. F. J. Rabbeth, an acknowledged expert in fire-arms, has devoted considerable time to experimenting with powders, shooting many hundred shots at a rest, with revolvers fitted with fine sights, to learn, if possible, the merits of different brands of powder for pistol-shooting. His experiments with wood powder show excellent results; but a majority of the pistol-shots at the present time do not seem to favor this kind of powder, but there exists a feeling that before long a powder will be produced which will cause less fouling than that in use at the present time, and such a compound will be welcomed by pistol-shots.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Score of 90 out of a possible 100, at 30 yards, with gallery ammunition, in .44-calibre Smith & Wesson Russian-model revolver, made by Mr. F. E. BENNETT, at Walnut Hill, Ma.s.s., Oct. 12, 1887. Reduced one-half.]

After placing the powder in the sh.e.l.l the bullet is inserted, generally without a wad, and seated in the sh.e.l.l. In cartridges with full charges the bullet is generally seated with a tool made expressly for the purpose.

With reduced charges, a round ball is often used, which is seated down in the sh.e.l.l touching the powder. It is then necessary to lubricate the cartridge, and as there are no cannelures to hold the grease, it is necessary to place the lubrication around the upper edges of the bullet.

There are several ways of doing this, the most approved manner being to place a bit of cold lubricant in each sh.e.l.l after the bullet has been seated, then with a plug with a concave end, of about the same diameter as the sh.e.l.l, force the lubricant down on top of the bullet, and by a few turns of the plug the lubricant will be placed evenly around the edge of the ball. Evenly distributing the lubricant is essential to secure even shooting.

If desirable to make the bullets, we cannot add anything to the directions given by Mr. F. J. Rabbeth to the readers of THE RIFLE in a recent issue, from which we extract the following:--

”Ever since the combination of cartridge manufacturers went into effect, by which the prices of bullets were advanced some 20 per cent., I have been tempted to tell riflemen what I know about making bullets, thereby enabling such as have not mastered the art, but who have the time and inclination,--as also the disposition to save a penny,--to quickly acquire it, and at the same time become independent of all combinations of bullet-makers in the future.

”It is evident from the quality of moulds furnished by the various manufacturers that there has been very little effort by any of them to furnish their customers with a practical implement. Indeed, I believe their policy has usually been to discourage people from making their own ammunition. I have searched the market through and have never yet found a thoroughly practical mould on sale. In fact, as compared with a first-cla.s.s implement, a large majority of these things are absolutely worthless; but it would take too much s.p.a.ce to point out all their various defects, and it will be much easier to describe how a good mould should be made. To begin, the mould should be of bra.s.s or composition, as lead flows to that metal better than iron or steel, and is worth more than the difference in cost. The two halves should be pivoted together, like a pair of blacksmith's tongs (not like a nut-cracker, as many of them are), with a large, well-fitted hinge-screw, with a body part one-eighth larger than thread part, so that it may be screwed solid against this enlarged body part without binding the mould too tightly together. Unless these hinge-screws are so fitted with shoulder they are continually working loose, and causing delay and trouble. After the mould is pivoted together and properly jointed, it should have one well-fitted dowel-pin placed as far from the pivot-screw as possible in the centre of the mould-head. The mould should be ample in size at the pivot or hinge, and at the head, so that it will not be likely to get sprung out of adjustment by rough usage; also that its ma.s.s may retain heat, and so preserve a more uniform temperature while in use. The cut-off should be of cast-steel, one-eighth to three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and pivoted on a substantial, well-fitted screw, with enlarged body part, as described for hinge-screw, and for the same purpose, _i.e._, that it may stay put when secured to place.

”The sprew-hole for any ordinary-sized bullet should not exceed one-tenth inch in diameter. The cut-off should project about one and a half inches beyond mould-head, and should swing far enough to one side to entirely uncover the base of the bullet. The shanks of the mould should be adapted to receive wood handles, and with handles attached, for comfort in use, should measure about nine inches to hinge-screw.

”For melting the lead a small plumber's kettle should be had that will hold, when full, about twenty pounds. For dipping from this, a small Monroe ladle, with round nozzle that will enter the counter-sink or sprew-hole of the cut-off. Heat the mould till it is near the melting temperature of lead, and when the lead in kettle is sufficiently hot, dip from kettle with ladle. Apply mould to nozzle while in a horizontal position, then while still holding mould in contact, quickly elevate ladle above mould, holding them in that position for a few seconds. This gives the full pressure of the lead in the ladle on the mould while it is cooling, and by this method as perfect a bullet can be cast as can be made by swaging. They can be cast at the average rate of 225 per hour. A gas stove is much the best means of melting the lead, as a more even temperature can be maintained; but it is not difficult to cast good bullets, using almost any kind of a coal fire.

”The lead and moulds should be kept at a temperature that will require a few seconds, say five to ten, for the lead in the sprew-hole to solidify after the ladle has been separated from the mould. This is the true test; and while this temperature is maintained, the bullets will be cast perfect. The mould should be held over the kettle while casting, so that any lead spilled may fall into main body.

”The best method for lubricating grooved bullets is to mix beeswax and cylinder or other heavy oil,--one part oil to four beeswax. Procure a pair of ordinary ten-cent tweezers, file away the centre so they will grasp the bullet near the point and not slip off too readily. Dip the bullets to cover all the grooves, and set them on a board to cool. When cool, remove surplus lubricant by forcing bullets through a tube the size of bullet.

This is cheaply made by cutting off the head of a sh.e.l.l and soldering a tapering tin extension to the sh.e.l.l, say six inches long. Shove this tube on to the bullets as they stand on the board, and empty the tube as often as it fills with bullets. If the grooves are not too wide--they should not be more than 1/25-inch wide, say twelve to the inch--this method will give perfect lubrication. Another method about equally good is to set a quant.i.ty of bullets in a shallow pan, points up, then to pour melted lubricant among them till there is sufficient in the pan to cover all the grooves; set aside till lubricant is sufficiently cooled, then use the tube as described above to remove surplus. Bullets so cast and lubricated will do very fine shooting either with clean or dirty barrel.”

Cartridges should not be exposed to the sun, and should be kept in a dry, cool place.

CHAPTER IX.

THE POSSIBILITIES OF THE REVOLVER.

_Results of Revolver-firing up to Fifty Yards._