Part 67 (1/2)
'You may thank heaven for some of the work they did. But for them, you would not be here to-day in a land of freedom.'
'Too much freedom,' said Mrs. Dallas. 'I believe it is good to have a king over a country.'
'Well, go on from Charing Cross, won't you,' said Miss Frere. 'I am interested. I never studied a map of London before. I am not sure I ever saw one.'
'I do not know which way to go,' said Pitt. 'Every step brings us to new a.s.sociations; every street opens up a chapter of history. Here is Northumberland House; a grand old building, full of its records.
Howards and Percys and Seymours have owned it and built it; and there General Monk planned the bringing back of the Stuarts. Going along the Strand, every step is full of interest. Just _here_ used to be the palace of Sir Nicholas Baron and his son; then James the First's favourite, the Duke of Buckingham, lived in it; and the beautiful water-gate is yet standing which Inigo Jones built for him. All the Strand was full of palaces which have pa.s.sed away, leaving behind the names of their owners in the streets which remain or have been built since. Here Sir Walter Raleigh lived; _here_ the Dudleys had their abode, and Lady Jane Grey was married; here was the house of Lord Burleigh. But let us go on to the church of St. Mary-le-Strand. Here once stood a great Maypole, round which there used to be merry doings.
The Puritans took that down too, mother.'
'What for?'
'They held it to be in some sort a relic of heathen manners. Then under Charles II. it was set up again. And here, once, four thousand children were gathered and sang a hymn, on some public occasion of triumph in Queen Anne's reign.'
'It is not there now?'
'Oh, no! It was given to Sir Isaac Newton, and made to subserve the uses of a telescope.'
'How do you know all these things, Mr. Pitt.'
'Every London antiquary knows them, I suppose. And I told you, I have an old uncle who is a great antiquary; London is his particular hobby.'
'He must have had an apt scholar, though.'
'Much liking makes good learning, I suppose,' said the young man. 'A little further on is the church of St. Clement Danes, where Dr. Johnson used to attend divine service. About _here_ stands Temple Bar.'
'Temple Bar!' said Miss Frere. 'I have heard of Temple Bar all my life, and never connected any clear idea with the name. What _is_ Temple Bar?'
'It is not very much of a building. It is the barrier which marks the bound of the city of London.'
'Isn't it London on both sides of Temple Bar?'
'London, but not the City. The City proper begins here. On the west of this limit is Westminster.'
'There are ugly a.s.sociations with Temple Bar, I know,' said Miss Frere.
'There are ugly a.s.sociations with everything. Down here stood Ess.e.x House, where Ess.e.x defended himself, and from which he was carried off to the Tower. _There_, in Lincoln's Inn fields, Thomas Babington and his party died for high treason, and there Russell died. And just up here is Smithfield. It is all over, the record of violence, intolerance, and brutality. It meets you at every turn.'
'It is only what would be in any other place as old as London,' said Mrs. Dallas. 'In old times people were rough, of course, but they were rough everywhere.'
'I was thinking'-- said Miss Frere. 'Mr. Dallas gives a somewhat singular justification of his liking for London.'
'Is it?' said Pitt. 'It would be singular if the violence were there now; but to read the record and look on the scene is interesting, and for me fascinating. The record is of other things too. See,--in this place Milton lived and wrote; here Franklin abode; here Charles Lamb; from an inn in this street Bishop Hooper went away to die. And so I might go on and on. At every step there is the memorial of some great man's life, or some noted man's death. And with all that, there are also the most exquisite bits of material antiquity. Old picturesque houses; old crypts of former churches, over which stands now a modern representative of the name; old monuments many; old doorways, and courts, and corners, and gateways. Come over to London, and I will take you down into the crypt of St. Paul's, and show you how history is presented to you there.'
'The crypt?' said Miss Frere, doubting somewhat of this invitation.
'Yes, the old monuments are in the crypt.'
'My dear,' said Mrs. Dallas, 'I do not understand how all these things you have been talking about should have so much charm for you. I should think the newer and handsomer parts of the city, the parks and the gardens, and the fine squares, would be a great deal more agreeable.'