Part 11 (2/2)

30th.--We had 13 feet water last night when the tide was in, but it was not until the flood had made two hours that we floated. The night was as fine as the last and calm. There was a light air of west wind when we got under weigh, with which and the flood-tide we slipped alongsh.o.r.e pretty fast. In an hour or two the wind began to fly about from all points, with calms between, so that even with the help of our oars we only made 22 miles; and not being able to reach Seal River, we ran into a small bay--the only spot that appeared clear of stones for some miles--about 12 miles north of it. Here abundance of drift wood was found, with which the men lighted fires sufficiently large for the coldest winter night. The evening was very warm, and the musquitoes were troublesome. The country inland is well wooded. Great numbers of mallard, teal, pintails, and long-tailed ducks were seen, but only two or three were shot.

31st.--Left our harbour as soon as the tide permitted, which was at 7 A.M. A light but fair breeze from N. by W. gradually increased, so that we made a fine run across b.u.t.ton's Bay, which is as full of rocks and shoals as represented in the charts, and entering Churchill River a few minutes after 1 P.M., landed in a small cove a few hundred yards above the Old Fort.

On visiting the Company's establishment, I found that Mr. Sinclair was absent at York Factory; but I was very kindly received by Mrs. Sinclair, and liberally supplied with everything we required for the continuation of our voyage. As we had carried away our bowsprit, Turner was set to make a new one.

I received many letters from much valued friends, and after remaining for a few hours, returned to the boats at 9 P.M. in order to be prepared for starting early in the morning, should wind and weather prove favourable. The stock of provisions on hand was eight bags of pemmican and four cwt. of flour. We left Ouligbuck and his son at Churchill.

3rd September.--For the last two days the wind had been fair, but blowing a gale, with such a heavy sea that we could not proceed. The weather was so cloudy that I could obtain no observations; I therefore employed most of my time in shooting Esquimaux curlews, which were so abundant near the Old Fort that I bagged seven brace in a few hours.

This morning the wind s.h.i.+fted more to the westward, and becoming more moderate, we got under weigh at 9 A.M. There was still a heavy swell outside and at the entrance of our little harbour. Whilst coming out in the dawn of the morning three seas came rolling in one after the other, and broke completely over the bows of the boat, was.h.i.+ng her from stem to stern. I thought she would have filled, but we got into deep water before any more seas caught her. The Magnet was even more roughly handled in following us, having s.h.i.+pped much water and struck heavily on the rocks--fortunately without damage. The wind died away, and during the morning s.h.i.+fted to south. We, however, reached Cape Churchill, and at 8 P.M. cast anchor under its lee, exactly opposite an old stranded boat.

4th.--We had a breeze from S.W. by S. to-day, which enabled us to get along the coast sixteen or eighteen miles during the flood. It blew so hard in the afternoon that we required to double-reef our sails. The weather was very warm, the thermometer being as high as +60 in the shade. A Canada nuthatch (_sitta Canadensis_) flew on board to-day, and was very nearly caught. There were a good many ducks and geese near the place where we landed to get fresh water. Between thirty and forty of the former and two of the latter were shot. The boats were allowed to take the ground, after two hours' ebb, on a fine s.h.i.+ngle beach, on which a considerable surf was breaking.

5th.--It was calm all night. At 3 this morning the boat floated, and we pushed out a short distance from sh.o.r.e to be ready for the first fair wind. At half-past seven a light air sprung up from N.E., but did not increase till past noon, when there was a fine breeze. A meridian observation of the sun gave lat.i.tude 58 26' 14” N. At 5 P.M. we were opposite the mouth of Broad River, lat.i.tude 58 7' 0” N. Thermometer at noon +56.

6th.--We were under weigh this morning a little before daylight with the wind from N.E. The weather was so thick that we could not see more than a hundred yards ahead. We, however, ran on by soundings until I thought we were near North River, and then kept insh.o.r.e until we got sight of land, which proved to be close to Nelson River, across which we stood, directing our course by compa.s.s, and coming in directly opposite the beacon. We arrived at York Factory between 9 and 10 o'clock, P.M. and were warmly welcomed by our friends, who had not expected to see us until next summer.

In justice to the men under me, let me here express my thanks for their continued good conduct under circ.u.mstances sometimes sufficiently trying;--in fact, a better set of fellows it would be difficult to find anywhere.

As to their appearance when we arrived at York Factory, I may adopt the words of Corporal M'Laren in charge of the Sappers and Miners who are to accompany Sir John Richardson,--”By George, I never saw such a set of men.”

FOOTNOTES:

[5] The dovekie, or black guillemot (_Uria grylle_), breeds in great numbers in the Orkney islands. I believe ornithologists are mistaken in supposing that this bird becomes white or rather grey during the winter.

It is only the young birds that are so; the old ones are seen in winter without any change in the colour of their summer plumage.

[6] This place is laid down on the chart as an island, but is a peninsula according to the account we received from the Esquimaux.

APPENDIX.

LIST OF MAMMALIA,

_Collected during Mr. Rae's Expedition, with Observations by J.

E. Gray, Esq., F.R.S. &c._

1. _Mus Musculus._ Linn. York Factory. Probably introduced from Europe.

2. _Arctomys Parryi._ Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. p. 158, tab. 10.

3. _Lepus Glacialis._ Leach. Richardson, Faun. Bor. Amer. 221.

MYODES.--The specimens brought by the expedition have enabled me to make some corrections in the characters a.s.signed to these species. I may observe that the large size or peculiar form of the claws which has been regarded as a character of the species, appears to be peculiar to one s.e.x--probably the males.

1. _The upper cutting teeth narrow, smooth without any longitudinal groove. Thumb with a compressed curved acute claw._ (Lemnus).

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