Part 1 (1/2)
Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835.
by James Forbes.
PREFACE.
The continental gardens and botanical collections having been rarely visited by the British gardener, his Grace the Duke of Bedford, with his usual anxiety for the promotion of useful knowledge, very liberally and kindly proposed in the autumn of 1835 that I should undertake a Horticultural Tour, through several parts of Germany, Belgium, and France, with a view of inspecting the different collections and productions cultivated in some of the most celebrated horticultural establishments in these countries.
The notes which are now submitted to the public contain a cursory detail of the various gardens and objects that came under my observation during a tour occupying a s.p.a.ce of eight weeks,--a period of time which the reader will readily understand required the utmost diligence on my part to fulfil the objects I had in view. Yet I was enabled to investigate such modes of culture as were adopted in the princ.i.p.al gardens, where the produce appeared in any way superior to our own; to become thoroughly acquainted with the different systems practised at various seasons of the year would have required an actual residence of many months.
In the mode of forcing fruits and management of the kitchen garden department, the English gardener will find but little abroad superior to what he is daily accustomed to see at home. It must however be observed that the zeal and anxiety displayed throughout Germany in the cultivation and increase of their collections of plants are in no way inferior to our own. In fact, in succulent plants they far surpa.s.s us; more particularly in their collections of Cacteae, which appeared to be a favourite tribe in the princ.i.p.al establishments on the continent. They are certainly deserving of a more extensive cultivation in this country than they have hitherto obtained. Their various shapes, numerous spines, angles, and the splendid flowers of many of the species, form an interesting and pleasing addition to our botanical establishments; and of all plants requiring the protection of the greenhouse and artificial heat, the Cacteae may be cultivated at the least expense, and exact less attendance than is generally requisite for hothouse plants. The Palmae are also extensively cultivated throughout the continent, and notwithstanding many of them are planted in gloomy habitations they were in general very healthy, and evidently more suitable inhabitants for such structures than the deciduous or hard-wooded species. The hothouses erected for the cultivation of plants throughout the Prussian dominions consist of opaque roofs, furnished only with upright lights, which are ill adapted for the flowering or bringing to perfection many of the tender species.
In most parts of Germany the pleasure grounds are very deficient in evergreens, frost being so intense in that country that the _Rhododendron pontic.u.m_, _Arbutus_, _Laurustinus_, _Daphne_, _Portugal_, and even common _Laurel_, require the protection of the greenhouse during the winter season. If these grounds, however, are deficient in evergreens, they are richly decorated, in most instances, with ornamental vases, statues, and numerous groups of fine sculpture, which contribute greatly to the embellishment of a pleasure-ground. As far as architecture and sculpture are concerned, the continental royal gardens far surpa.s.s those in England; but there did not appear to me in the quarters I visited to be a spirit for garden-improvement equal to that which is so generally prevalent in this country.
It now only remains for me to take this opportunity of returning my thanks to those whose kindness afforded me considerable facilities in viewing the different gardens described in this tour; they are, however, more especially due to those horticulturists of Germany by whose liberality I have been enabled to add above six hundred new and curious plants to the splendid collection at Woburn Abbey, entrusted to my care; and I must add, that I found a cheerful inclination, in most instances, to enter into a correspondence for the mutual exchange of plants and seeds. The few remarks on different objects, not immediately connected with Horticulture, which I have ventured to introduce, will it is hoped be received with that indulgence which my imperfect acquaintance with such matters may require.
J. F.
JOURNAL OF A HORTICULTURAL TOUR, IN 1835.
August 19th. Left the Custom House at six o'clock, a. m., by the William Joliffe steam-packet, for Hamburgh; but having a strong easterly wind a-head, we did not pa.s.s the sunk light until a little past four o'clock in the afternoon.
20th. Sailing at the rate of six miles per hour; still a strong easterly wind a-head, but a beautiful day, and the sky clear from clouds; about twelve o'clock we were about twenty-five miles off the Texel, with a fresh breeze still right a-head.
21st. A beautiful day, but the wind still continuing against us, we sailed only at the rate of seven miles per hour. About nine o'clock in the morning the small isle of Heligoland made its appearance, much to the gratification of the pa.s.sengers, this island being only a hundred miles from Hamburgh. It is said to contain from three to four thousand inhabitants, who are chiefly occupied in fis.h.i.+ng; haddocks and lobsters are very abundant in its immediate neighbourhood, which are taken in great numbers to the Hamburgh as well as the London markets. The island is said to be nearly a mile in length, and about half a mile in breadth, and now belongs to the British government. At twenty minutes past twelve o'clock we entered the Elbe, where two light s.h.i.+ps are stationed, in consequence of the sandbanks, which are rather dangerous in that part of the pa.s.sage.
The island of Newark-Farm is distant only from three to four miles from the mouth of the Elbe; the houses and cattle were now pleasing objects in view. About three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Cuxhaven, which is a small sea-port town, and is in the territory belonging to the town of Hamburgh. It is a very fas.h.i.+onable bathing spot: and a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen a.s.sembled at the haven when the steam packet neared the sh.o.r.e. About four o'clock we experienced some heavy drops of rain, with very loud claps of thunder, and towards evening numerous broad flashes of lightning, very vivid, which appeared to skirt along near the ground. On pa.s.sing along the Elbe, we found it much crowded with numerous sailing vessels, making the best of their way to and from Hamburgh. These, with a variety of handsome church-spires peeping out amongst various clumps of trees on both sides of the river, gave the scenery a pleasing and picturesque appearance. We have also here at the same time in view a part of the king of Denmark's dominions, as well as a portion of the Hanoverian territories.
August 22nd. Arrived in the harbour at Hamburgh at half-past twelve o'clock in the morning; but by the time we got out our luggage, and boats to take us ash.o.r.e, it was getting close on to eight o'clock.
Shortly after my arrival I proceeded to Flottbeck, to see the nursery gardens of Mr. Booth, which are situated close by the banks of the Elbe, about four English miles from Hamburgh. In this nursery I was much gratified by the extensive collection of plants; there are about one hundred acres of ground under nursery stock, consisting princ.i.p.ally of ornamental trees and shrubs, including a great variety of new species, that I had not previously seen in any of our British nurseries. Mr.
Booth is a most enthusiastic practical botanist, and spares no expence for the introduction of new and rare plants to his collection. He has arranged along the edges of a walk which is nearly a mile in length a collection of hardy trees and shrubs, which are so planted that the different species of each genus are brought at once under view for comparison. The whole are arranged according to the _Natural System_ of _Jussieu_. The herbaceous ground contains above four thousand species of hardy perennial plants: there are also above twelve hundred different varieties of roses. The hothouses allotted for the growth of exotics and Cape plants are about five hundred feet in length, with a range of pits nearly four hundred feet long for the low and half-hardy species. The collection of _Cacteae_ here amounts to nearly four hundred different species; amongst them are many curious and interesting sorts.
There are also some fine specimens of palms, and numerous fine exotics; the collection of Cape and New Holland plants is likewise very extensive. The pa.s.sion for _Orchideae_ has also extended to this part of Germany; Mr. Booth has a great variety of this tribe of plants, and is building a house solely for their cultivation: he is likewise constructing pits, for the growth of the pine-apple. He has a very fine collection of the _Genus Pinus_, and shewed me several new species that he had raised from seeds, which were considered to be new and undescribed sorts. I saw a species much resembling our _Pinus pal.u.s.tris_, with fine long foliage. Mr. Booth calls it the pal.u.s.tris _excelsa_, and informs me that it grows to a great height, and is perfectly hardy, having stood this winter ten degrees of frost, Reaumur, which is equal to twenty three Fahrenheit, without sustaining the least injury, although quite exposed.
I could not but admire the neatness in which the plants and grounds in this extensive establishment were kept, and notwithstanding the extreme dryness of the weather, (not having had any rain for nine weeks in that part of the country,) the plants were looking all in a healthy and flouris.h.i.+ng state; but the watering of such a collection for so many weeks must have been attended with an enormous expence.
August 23rd. Being accompanied by Mr. Booth, we proceeded along the banks of the Elbe to the villa of M. de la Camp, which is situated close by the road, commanding a most beautiful view of the Elbe and its s.h.i.+pping, as well as Finkenwarder, an island on the opposite side of the Elbe, the one half of which belongs to Hanover, and the other half to Hamburgh. This island produces a very hardy species of oak, which was found there some years ago, and is called the _Quercus Falkenbergense_.
M. de la Camp has formed a very complete vineyard on the banks of the Elbe, which was in a very prolific state, as were also the vines that formed an arbour to the front of this gentleman's house.
From this we next proceeded some miles further along the Elbe banks, to the seat of Mr. Baur at Blankanese. This gentleman is a wealthy merchant, and has expended an immense sum of money in the formation of his grounds, according to the English system of gardening. He has formed numerous walks and artificial banks, that command extensive views of the Elbe. These walks and banks, were staked out by Mr. Baur personally, who, I have no hesitation in saying, has displayed a very superior taste; they are remarkably well executed: in short, the banks and valleys appeared as if they had been formed by nature, but they are princ.i.p.ally the work of art. I however regretted not to find a corresponding taste for good plants, to keep pace with the other extensive ground improvements that this gentleman has completed and is proceeding with.
Close by the Elbe are situated several small forcing houses for fruits, a greenhouse, orangery, and some low pits for the cultivation of the pine-apple, which has been grown here for several years; but they do not seem yet to have made much progress in the cultivation of this fruit. In front of these houses there is a terrace-wall, that separates the garden-ground from the Elbe, which washes up against it. The stones with which this wall was built were brought a distance of from four to five hundred miles (from Saxony) for this purpose; and it is executed in a very superior manner. On the highest part of the grounds there has been lately erected a handsome Chinese paG.o.da, which commands a beautiful prospect of the Elbe and its s.h.i.+pping, as well as the opposite island and Hanoverian dominions. A round tower also been lately built, which forms a pretty object in these grounds; several other objects of interest are also to be seen dispersed in various parts, which are considered superior to any other gardens in the neighbourhood of Hamburgh, and are consequently much frequented every Sunday by visitors, as on that day it is open to the public. We were obliged to take our departure from them much sooner than I could have wished, owing to a very heavy shower of rain which continued for a considerable time; and it being the only rain of any consequence that had fallen in the course of nine weeks, it was very agreeable to that part of the country.
Mr. Baur has recently built in these grounds a very handsome house, according to the English style of building, but it is not yet inhabited.
It was impossible not to admire the very superior and substantial manner in which the works are all executed in this gentleman's establishment.
On my return from this place to Flottbeck, I then proceeded back to Hamburgh: when on my way I was much surprised to observe bricklayers in some places busy at work, although Sunday. Towards the evening, the rain had quite abated; I then made the best of my way for the Botanic Gardens, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, on a part of the ground which, during the reign of Buonaparte, formed a strong fortification, but these have recently been demolished: they are now laid out as a public promenade for the inhabitants of the town, and likewise a Botanical establishment for the cultivation of plants, and from its beautiful situation, it is certainly one of the best chosen sites for this purpose that has come under my observation. It appeared to be of considerable extent, and irregular form, sloping in part of it, down to the old rampart ditch, which now forms a handsome piece of water, bounding the garden, and separating it from the promenade on the opposite side, which being laid out as a pleasure ground, with clumps of trees and shrubs on the gra.s.s, when viewed from the Botanic Garden, gives a stranger the idea that it is a part of the Botanical establishment, giving the latter a much more extensive appearance than it actually possesses. The extent of hothouses for the growth of exotic and Cape plants, is rather limited, and did not seem to be more than about two hundred and fifty feet in length. I here observed some very fine specimens of _Cacteae_, and likewise several rare species of _Palms_, such as the _Zamia_, _Frideriis_, _Guilielmi_, _aetensteinii_, _Lehmanii_, _Caffra_, and _Horrida_. I also was much delighted by seeing in flower, a very pretty plant, called the _Olendorfia proc.u.mbens_, which I believe has not yet made its appearance in England. A great portion of the ground in this establishment is occupied by trees and shrubs, which are cultivated for sale, for the support of the garden, consequently much ground is taken up by these, which ought to be a.s.signed to single specimens. In the herbaceous ground, there is also an extensive collection of hardy perennial plants.
August 24th. Went at five o'clock in the morning, to see the fruit and vegetable market, which seemed to be well supplied with fruit and culinary vegetables. I observed large quant.i.ties of the new Orleans plum, summer Bergamot pear, and the black cherries, which appeared to be larger than the same sort (Hertford blacks,) grown in this country.
The _Haricot bean_, is also in great repute in Germany, and certainly deserves to be more extensively cultivated in this country, than it hitherto has been, as it forms an excellent subst.i.tute for the _French bean_ or the _scarlet runner_, which is cultivated here in preference.
After seeing the fruit and vegetable market, I next proceeded to view the promenade which surrounds the greater part of the town, and adds greatly to the comfort of the inhabitants, as well as to the beauty and scenery of the immediate vicinity of Hamburgh. This promenade is laid out very tastefully with numerous clumps of trees and shrubs, various capacious walks leading to different points of view, and objects around the town, sloping towards the old rampart ditch, which is now formed into a handsome irregular piece of water, which enlivens the scenery, and gives the promenade an appearance equal to any pleasure ground in this country. The side facing the town of Altona, is really beautiful; the s.p.a.ce of ground leading from the Hamburgh gate, at the Altona side of the town, is very picturesque, especially as we approach towards the Harbour or Docks, whither we are guided by a broad walk, leading to a high projection, or point of view, where we have a delightful prospect of the s.h.i.+pping on the Elbe, with its surrounding scenery for several miles in extent. The formation of this promenade was commenced about sixteen years ago, is now annually progressing, and advancing towards completion, under the superintendance of Mr. Altuman, who has displayed great taste, in his arrangement of the walks, clumps of trees, and shrubs, as well as the formation of the water. The _Alster Lake_, is situated at the north side of the town, extending about twelve miles in that direction, and adds considerably to the beauty of the scenery in that neighbourhood. It also contributes greatly to the convenience of the town, as numerous boats, with various commodities, are brought to Hamburgh on its surface. The promenades leading to the town of Altona, are also deserving of notice; long avenues intersecting each other are here formed, by double rows of the Lime, Elm, and Poplar trees, with large s.p.a.ces of gra.s.s lawn, intervening betwixt them. After making a tour round the promenade, I next proceeded to view the princ.i.p.al parts of the town, and its churches, which are very splendidly fitted up. The streets of Hamburgh are narrow and paved with round stones, which are not very agreeable to those unaccustomed to walk upon them; the most fas.h.i.+onable part of the town is the side next the Alster Lake, which is much frequented in the evenings.
After getting my pa.s.sport examined and signed, and securing a place in the diligence for Berlin, I next accompanied Mr. Booth the seedsman, (brother to the nursery man,) in a drive round the outskirts of the town, where there are some pretty villas, and also various tea gardens, which, although a week day, appeared to be well attended. I was rather surprised to find at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen a.s.sembled in front of a small theatrical performance, which it appeared was the daily practice in that part of the country, the ladies being occupied sewing and knitting, and others drinking coffee. The town of Hamburgh is said to contain above a hundred thousand inhabitants, and they certainly appeared to me to be in a very flouris.h.i.+ng state. In short the general appearance and respectability of the inhabitants, that prevailed throughout the town and its vicinity was very striking. At eight o'clock in the evening, I took my departure from Hamburgh, by the _Schnell-post_, (diligence) for Berlin, which was accomplished in one day and two nights travelling; here I had a good specimen of diligence _expedition_, especially for the first eight hours, being placed in one of the bye chaises, which is only calculated to hold four pa.s.sengers, and is of much less dimensions than the main diligence, and much lighter; I fully expected every moment to be upset, as a great part of this road between Hamburgh and Boisenburgh, is full of large deep ruts that kept us completely on the rock for many miles, but after we pa.s.sed the latter town, we then had an excellent road, yet the speed of our crawling conveyance was but very little increased. The roads throughout all the Prussian territories that I have travelled on, appeared to be in excellent repair.