Part 11 (1/2)
The ringing of a bell announced the c.o.c.k-fight in the main beneath the cocoanut-trees. It was near the market-place, where venders of betel-nut, tobacco, cigarettes, and _tuba_ squatted on the ground, their wares exposed for sale on mats. As the spectators crowded in, the gatekeeper would mark their bare feet with a red stamp, indicating that admission had been paid. On booths arranged within the last inclosure, _senoritas_ sold hot chocolate and raisin-cakes and beer. Tethered to little stakes, and straining at their leashes, the excited game-c.o.c.ks, the descendants of the jungle-fowl, screamed in exultant unison. The small boys, having climbed the cocoanut-palms, clung to the notches, and looked down upon the scene of conflict.
Little brown men, squatting around the birds, were critically hefting them, or matching couples of them in preliminary bouts, keeping a good hold of their tails. There was the wicked little Moro Bangcorong, the trainer of birds that never lost a fight. There was Manolo, the Visayan dandy, who on recent winnings in the main, supported a small stable of racing ponies at Cebu. The person entering a bird deposits a certain amount of money with the bank. This wager is then covered by the smaller bets of _hoi poiloi_. When a ”dark” bird is victorious, and the crowd wins, an enthusiastic yell goes up. But just as in a public lottery, fortune is seldom with the great majority. As the bell rings, the spectators press close around the bamboo pit, or climb to points of vantage in adjacent scaffolding. A line is drawn in the damp earth, and on one side all the money wagered on the favorite is arranged, which must be balanced by the coin placed by opposing betters on the other side. There is a frantic rus.h.i.+ng around at the last moment to place bets. The Chinaman waves a ten-_peso_ bill excitedly, and clamors ”_buenting! buenting!_”--meaning that he puts his money on the speckled bird. Somebody on the other side cries out ”_guingan!_” or ”green,” and thus they both find takers for their ”_sapi_.” Then the _presidente_, who referees the fight, sends two policemen to clear out the ring; the sheaths are removed from the razor-sharp steel spurs; the two c.o.c.ks are held opposite each other, and are simultaneously launched into the arena. Ruffling, and facing each other with their necks outstretched, ”blood in their eyes,” and realizing to the full extent the danger of the situation, they prepare to fight it out to death. A quick stab, and the victim, trembling violently, a stream of red blood trickling down its leg, drops at the first encounter, and the fight is over.
While no record has been kept of how the bets were placed, every one seems to remember, and the money is handed over honestly. If Filipinos were as honorable in all their dealings as they are in this, they would be ideal people to do business with; for although they will beg and borrow, or even steal, to get the money which is wagered at these ”combats,” they will never evade a debt of honor thus incurred. Regarding gambling as a livelihood, or a profession in good standing, they devote their best hours to the study and the mastery of it. They, with their false philosophy, believe that wealth is thus produced, and that there is a gain for every one.
The list of fights progresses, some of the c.o.c.ks only giving up the struggle after a last dying kick has been directed at the breast of the antagonist, who, desperately wounded, summons strength for one triumphant, but a rather husky, crow. Sometimes both birds are taken from the c.o.c.kpit dead. The bird that loses a fight through cowardice is rent limb from limb by the indignant owner, and is ignominiously hung upon the bamboo paling,--bird of ill omen, that has ruined the finances of a family, mortgaged the house and carabao, and plunged its owner into debt for the next year!
Sometimes a ”free for all” is subst.i.tuted for the dual contest. Eighteen or twenty fighting-c.o.c.ks will be arranged in a large circle, dropped at the same time in the ring, and set to work. Half of the birds, not realizing what is going on, will innocently start to scratch for worms, or set out on a search for seeds. It is amusing then to see the astonished look they give when suddenly confronted by a couple of antagonists. They settle their disputes in bunches of three and four, and soon the ring is full of chickens running to get out of danger, maimed and crippled, or still innocently scratching after worms. There was a little white c.o.c.k at the recent main at Oroquieta, who avoided every fight without, however, leaving the arena. The game old buzzard that belonged to _Capitan_ A-Bey--a bird with legs like stilts and barren patches in his foliage--had put down every challenger in turn. Confronted by two birds at once, he seemed to say, ”One side, old fellow, for a moment; will attend to your case later”--which he did. Dizzy and staggering from loss of blood, still ”in the ring,” he sidled up to the immaculate white bird that had so ingeniously evaded every fight. It was a case of out-and-out bluff. If the little bird had struck, he must have won. A single look, however, at his reprehensible antagonist sufficed. The little bird made a direct line for the gate, while _Capitan_ A-Bey's old rooster, with defiance in his look and voice, was carried away in triumph. In the parade next day, where the competing game-c.o.c.ks were exhibited, the ”buzzard,” though he was exempt from taking part in the proceedings, led the procession and was loudly cheered.
My introduction to polite society in Filipinia was certainly auspicious. ”Betel-Nut Sal,” the wife of the constabulary sergeant, had a birthday, and invited everybody to the dance and the reception which would take place in the jail. The _Senorita_ Tonio, most prominent of the receiving ladies, was engaged when I arrived, in meting out gin to the visitors. Her teeth were red from betel-chewing, and a cigarette hung from the corner of her mouth. The orchestra, armed with guitars and mandolins, had seated themselves upon a bench, barefooted with their legs crossed, ready to begin. The insufficiency of partners for the ladies had necessitated letting out most of the prisoners on parole. A certain young dandy who had been locked up on charge of murder, was the hero of the hour. While he was dancing, soldiers with their Remingtons guarded the door. I was induced to try a dance with Tonio. The hum of music could be heard above the ”clack-clack” of the carpet-slippers tapping on the floor. Then suddenly the _senorita_ swore a white man's oath, and stopped. Her carpet-slipper had come off, and as she wore no hosiery, the situation was indeed embarra.s.sing. Our hostess asked us twenty times if everything was satisfactory, and finally confessed that she had spent almost a year's income for the refreshments. ”Dancee now; _manana_, was.h.i.+e, was.h.i.+e.”
I must tell you of Bernarda's party. ”We expect you for the eating,”
read the invitation, and when dinner was all ready I was sent for. Then we sat down to a feast of roast pork, rice, and goat-flesh, with a rather soggy cake for the dessert. At most b.a.l.l.s it is customary for the ladies to be seated first at the refreshment-table, where the most substantial articles of diet are boiled ham with sugar frosting, cakes flavored with the native lime, and lemon soda. Like the coy nun in Chaucer's ”Prologue,” she who is most elegant will take care not to spill the food upon her lap, eat with the fingers, or spit out the bones. At wedding feasts the gentlemen are given preference at the table.
When the orchestra arrived--a trifle late after a six-mile hike through muddy roads and over swollen streams--the company was more delighted than a nursery. The orchestra began the program with the piece ent.i.tled ”Just One Girl,” to which the people sang Visayan words. Vivan, the old clown, in clumsy commissary shoes, skated around the floor to the amus.e.m.e.nt of the whole a.s.sembly. The chair-dance was announced, and the most favored _senorita_ occupied a chair set in the middle of the room. A dozen suitors came in order, bowing low, entreating her not to reject their plea. One after another they were thrown down, and retired crestfallen. But at last the right one came, and waltzed off with the girl triumphantly. There was a salvo of applause, the more intense because in this case an engagement had been practically announced. No native ball would be complete without the symbolistic dance which so epitomizes Filipino character. This is performed by a young lady and her partner wielding fans and scented handkerchiefs, advancing and retreating with all kinds of coquetries.
Long after midnight, when the party broke up with the customary horse-play, the accommodating orchestra, who had enjoyed the evening with the rest, still playing ”Just One Girl,” escorted the a.s.sembly home.
Chapter XVIII.
Visayan Ethics and Philosophy.
He is the drollest little person in the world--the Filipino of the southern isles. He imitates the sound of chickens in his language and the nasal ”nga” of the carabao. He talks about his chickens and makes jokes about them. As he goes along the street, he sings, ”_Ma-ayon buntag_,” or ”_Ma-ayon hapon_,” to the friends he meets. This is his greeting in the morning and the afternoon; at night, ”_Ma-ayon gabiti_.” And instead of saying, ”Thank you,” he will sing, ”_Deus mag bayud_” (G.o.d will reward you), and the answer, also sung, will be ”_gehapon_” (always)--just as though it were no use to look for a reward upon this world.
You wonder how it is that he can spend his life rooted to one spot, like a tree, pa.s.sing the days in idleness. He is absorbed in his own thoughts. If you should ask him anything he would not hear you; he is far away in his own dreamland. You must wake him up first, and then repeat your question several times. If you should have instructions for him, do not give them to him all at once. A single idea at a time is all that he can carry in his head. If he has not been broken in to a routine, he will chase b.u.t.terflies upon the way, influenced ever by the pa.s.sion of the moment. There is no yesterday or no to-morrow in his thoughts. What he shall find to eat to-morrow never concerns him. Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof.
Many mistakes have been made in the hasty judgment of the Filipino character. Such axioms as ”Never trust a native under any circ.u.mstances;” ”Never expect to find a sense of grat.i.tude;”
”Never believe a word a native says,” are only too well known in Filipinia. The Spanish influence has been responsible for most of the defects as well as for the merits of the native character. Then, the peculiar fas.h.i.+on of the Oriental mind forbids his reasoning according to the Occidental standards. Cause and effect are hazy terms to him, and the justification of the means is not regarded seriously. His thefts are in a way consistent with his system of philosophy. You are so rich, and he so poor. The Filipino is at heart a socialist. But he does not steal indiscriminately. If it is your money that he takes, it is because he needs it to put up on the next c.o.c.k-fight. If he selects your watch, it is because he needs a watch, and nothing more. The Filipino, when he transacts business, has two scales of prices,--one for the natives, and another for Americans. He reasons that because Americans are rich, they ought to pay a higher price for what they get than Filipinos do. He would expect if he bought anything from you that you would make a special rate for him regardless of the value of the article in question. You would have to come down to accommodate his pocketbook.
The Filipino code of ethics justifies a falsehood, especially if the end in view should be immediate. He lies to save himself from punishment, and he will make a c.u.mulative lie, building it up from his imagination until even the artistic element is wanting, and his lie becomes a thing of contradictions and absurdities. When questioned closely, or when cross-examined, his imagination gets beyond control, and it is possible that he believes, himself, the ”fairy tales” he tells. Fear easily upsets his calculations, and he runs amuck. But he will not betray himself, although he will deny a friend three times. He may be in an agony of fear, but only by the subtlest changes could it be detected.
The Spaniards, when they left out grat.i.tude from his curriculum, made up for the deficiency by inculcating strict ideals of discipline. The Filipino never has had much to be grateful for, and he regards a friendly move suspiciously. But he admires a master, and will humbly yield to almost any kind of tyranny, especially from one of his own race. The poorer cla.s.ses rather like to be imposed upon in the same way as the Americans appreciate a humbug.