Part 12 (1/2)

16. 1770-1780.

17. 1740-1780.

18. 1786-1796.

19. 1774-1784.

20. 1775-1790.

21. Sole of shoe No. 22.

22. 1776-1800.

23. 1780-1790.]

The neck had the same lawn bind with a long lace ruffle, and the coat the same full cut as in the last reign, and the large rounded cuff was still in favour, but many varieties of size were now worn. A vertical pocket is seen occasionally on cloth coats, also a cape and turned-down collar are noted, while several appear with a very small upright collar. b.u.t.tons were still worn on some coats, right down the front; but on many coats the b.u.t.tons stopped level with the pocket.

A short-skirted coat came in amongst the dandies towards the end of the reign, and was stiffened out on the skirts; these mostly had a tighter sleeve and cuff. The same decorations continued in use. Waistcoats were much the same, and were cut to the length of the coats, or about four inches shorter; they were b.u.t.toned higher, the lace often falling outside.

Breeches were the same in cut, fastened with six b.u.t.tons and a buckle at the side of the knee. The stockings, usually decorated with clocks, were still worn rolled outside the knee amongst smart people. The stiff high boots or gaiters generally had a full curved piece at the top, and short gaiters to the calf are also to be noticed.

The shoes were square-toed or of a roundish form, with a short or rather high square front, and heels of various heights. Patches and make-up were used by the fops, and swords and sticks carried, the latter being very high, to 46 inches.

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE II. FEMALE.

The hair was treated in much the same manner as with George I up to the end of this reign--gathered back from the forehead to a bunch of curls at the back. The small hats and caps, often worn together, continued of the same character; the dresses also remained similar in cut. The sack-back dress was supreme in the fifties, when it was set with panniers, together with the hoops, but the latter were not so much worn towards the end of this reign, except for the ”grand dress.” Quilted petticoats were much worn, but flounces are not a feature on the skirts till the latter part of this period. The simpler dress was of various lengths, and was at times worn quite short up to 1740. The corset bodice was still in use, with lawn sleeves: square cuffs and lace ruffles held the lead throughout this time, but the fan-shaped sleeve finish to the elbow, in the same material as the dress, began to appear about 1750, generally with a waved or scalloped edge. Pointed toes and high-heeled shoes continued, with either tied or buckled latchets, and long gloves and mittens were in use.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 92.--Three hoops and four pannier forms.

Types 1725-1760.

1750-1780.

1740-1770.

1700.

1720-50.

1735-65.

1780-90.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 93.

_Quilted designs on Petticoats, 18th century._]

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE II. MALE.

Wigs with double points at the back, short curled or of long pigtailed shapes, some with side curls, others curled all round the front, were worn. Large bows and bags, or no bows, finished the back hair, and the bow to the front of the neck was in use from the early part of this reign. Long coats, as in the last reign, and short coats with stiffened skirts were used; many with braided seams and fronts, also a braided opening at the back. Large round cuffs and big square ones, caped coats, and coats with turn-down collars were all in the mode, and the ”maccaroni” fas.h.i.+ons started about 1760, with absurdities in small hats, clubbed wigs, and very short coats. High sticks and crook sticks, canes and swords continued in use.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XXII.--

(_a_) Linen Dress. 1795-1808.

_Pattern of Bodice, see p. 316._ (_b_) Silk Bodice. 1825-30.

(_c_) Silk Bodice. 1818-25.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 94.--Wig types, second half 18th century.