Part 7 (1/2)

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 43.--Period Henry VIII.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 44.--Cap shapes. Period Henry VIII.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 45.--Variety of shapes and slas.h.i.+ng. Henry VIII.]

Long coats were still worn of the shape described at the end of the 15th century, but a short surcoat was the mode, reaching just below the knee, sleeveless, or with the various hanging sleeves of this period, the fronts usually turned back to form a wide collar, either round or square in shape on the shoulder, or at times falling to a deep square at the back.

The sleeves were full in the upper part, tightening to the wrist, sometimes open up to the elbow and laced, or they were pleated into a full round shape at the shoulder. Puffs and slas.h.i.+ngs increased in these designs, and by 1520 we find the sleeves mostly divided into puffed and slashed forms, which grew to fantastic proportions.

Very short, tight breeches or trunks, with a front flap or codpiece, were decorated to match the body design and colour schemes; they increased in length to the knee, or just below, during this reign, and usually finished in a serrated roll.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Plate XI.--16 Leather Boots and Shoes. Between 1535 and 1860.

1. 1740-1780.

2. 1535-1550.

3. 1680-1700.

4. 1645-1690.

5. 1665-1685.

6. 1690-1710.

7. 1845-1860.

8. 1790-1820.

9. 1665-1670.

10. 1800-1820.

11. 1820-1840.

12. ”

13. 1815-1850.

14. 1760-1780.

15. 1650-1670.

16. 1630-1660.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 46.--Footwear, 1510-1540.]

Shoes were of the square form, some very short in front, held on by a strap across the instep, others with fronts to the instep. The corners were often brought out to a point on each side of the toes, and the mode of decorating with slas.h.i.+ng and punctures made them very interesting. The sides of these shoes are very low, from to 1 inch, and no heels are seen. A big, round shape was also favoured, which increased in width till a proclamation forbade it exceeding 6 inches.

Chains were still a decorative feature round the neck, and the belt carried a sword and pouch, or, amongst the working cla.s.ses, other necessities.

SIXTEENTH CENTURY. THE REIGNS OF EDWARD VI AND MARY.

FEMALE.

In the reign of Edward VI, which was so short, as also in that of Mary, there was little time to form a real character. These reigns form developing links to the Elizabethan era, so I have taken them in one chapter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 47.

FIG. 48.