Part 31 (1/2)

”I know that some of your people are better Christians than some who bear the name,” replied the Hindu gentleman politely. ”Benares is so holy, and the Ganges is so holy, that hundreds of thousands visit it as the Mussulmans visit Mecca. Men of wealth, and those who have the means without being rich, come to this city when they feel that they have been seized with a malady likely to prove fatal; for to die here with the Hindu is a pa.s.sport to eternal happiness. But I am talking too long, though there is much more that might be said; but perhaps it could be better said on board of that launch my friend mentions, and in sight of the temples, towers, and other objects of interest.”

In the middle of the afternoon the train arrived at its destination; and the party proceeded in carriages to the western suburb, the location of the cantonment, or English quarter of the city.

CHAPTER x.x.xIII

A STEAMER TRIP UP AND DOWN THE GANGES

Clarke's Hotel, at Secrole, received the tourists, and everything was in readiness for them when they arrived. Lord Tremlyn had announced the coming of himself and his large party, and a person of his distinction and influence could command anything he desired. The rest of the day was given to rest, though in the evening Sir Modava talked to the tourists about the city.

Early the next morning the party were conveyed to the river, where they embarked in a steam-yacht which had been provided for their use. It was more than a launch; for its standing-room would seat the whole company, while an awning was spread over a portion of the upper deck, from which a full view of the sh.o.r.e could be obtained. The city is on the north sh.o.r.e of the river, which has an easterly course in this portion of India, and the houses are packed in about as thickly as they can be.

”This is the Dasasvamedh Ghat,” said Sir Modava, with a smile. ”I thought you might wish to recall it after you get home to America. I think it is rather pleasant to know the names of places one has visited.”

”We could not speak the word now without an hour's practice, and I am sure not one of us will know it when we get to the other side of the Atlantic,”

said Mrs. Belgrave.

”You can write it down in your diaries.”

”We might as well attempt to copy the top of a tea-chest,” added Louis.

The ladies were a.s.sisted on board of the steamer.

The captain was a very gentlemanly Englishman; and he was all devotion to the wants of his pa.s.sengers, who seated themselves on the promenade deck.

The steamer belonged to the government; and she was fitted up in the most comfortable manner, though it was not so gaudy as the craft of a maharajah would have been. The ghat was at the western extremity of the crescent to which Sir Modava had alluded, and from this point the town looked like an amphitheatre.

The river is ordinarily about half a mile wide, but in the season of high water it is double that width. The captain called the attention of the party to the ghat as they receded from it, the broad flight of stairs being a rather wonderful sight to the strangers, though they had seen something of the kind before in Delhi and Cawnpore.

The steps are adorned with small temples with plenty of spires. Near the top of the flight was the Man Munder, the great observatory. Though the building is plain, as a whole, Captain Carlisle pointed out a highly ornamental window, with a profusion of handsome brackets. The stairs on the city side of the river were unlimited as far as the eye could see. Behind them was a forest of spires, domes, and cupolas.

”You ought to have left the ghat before sunrise,” said the captain, who was walking up and down the deck, with an eye on the Hindu pilot. ”Then you would have been in time to see the sight of the day, for the appearance of the sun is the holy moment for the natives to plunge into the holy river.

For miles along the sh.o.r.e the ghats are thronged at the first appearance of the orb of day, and there is a continuous murmur of voices. No matter how cold the water is, they dive in and swim like fishes. You can see a thousand heads in the water along the sh.o.r.e at any moment. Then they support themselves on the surface, and gaze motionless at the sun as it mounts in the sky.”

”Are you a sailor, Captain Carlisle?” asked Louis, who thought he was rather poetic for an uneducated man.

”Not as the commander of your s.h.i.+p would understand it, though I was in command of a Thames steamer, and fell into the same business when I came to India,” replied the captain, laughing at the question. ”My father was a good Baptist; he wanted to make a minister of me, and I was educated far enough to enter the university; but I concluded that I did not like the business, and took to steamboating.”

”But aren't the women as religious as the men?” inquired Captain Ringgold.

”More so, if anything. But they come down to the river before sunrise and take their swim. If you had been here this morning you would have seen them coming out of the water just as the men are ready to go in, and you would have observed them in their white garments, dripping like drowned rats.

That paG.o.da you see ahead of us with the bell tower and s.h.i.+ning in gilt is the only temple the Buddhists have in Benares.”

”We are coming now to the Munikurnika Ghat. It is a five-syllable word, but you can easily p.r.o.nounce it,” said Sir Modava, who thought he would ”spell”

the captain for a time; and he was quite as familiar with the banks of the Ganges.

”And it is quite musical,” added the captain.

”p.r.o.nounce u like double o, and the rest of the letters as in English, and you can speak it without choking,” said the Hindu gentleman. ”But there are some letters in Hindu that have no equivalents in English.”