Part 6 (1/2)
Their sheik, or chief, takes his seat on a carpet, while his followers sit in front of him and repeat pa.s.sages from the Koran. They then stand and repeat their formula of faith, ”_La illah_,” etc., bending forward and backward at each syllable. This recital, which is at first slow, becomes more and more rapid, until you can only distinguish the syllables _il_ and _lah_. The sheik then stamps his foot, and the Dervishes, growing frantic, quicken their swinging motion, shouting _lah_, and interposing every now and then the exclamation _Hu yia hu_, implying ”He, O He” (is G.o.d). The ninety-nine names or attributes of G.o.d are then recited, while the sheik counts the ninety-nine beads of his chaplet.
When the last bead is reached their fury knows no bounds, and, holding each other's hands in a circle, they swing forwards and backwards until they foam at the mouth, and, falling exhausted to the ground, lie in an apparent trance. This they claim to be spiritual ecstasy!
Another sect, the Mevlevis, find this ecstasy in whirling until they sink exhausted. The third Order the Bektas.h.i.+s, who are the most tolerant, maintain that the contemplation of G.o.d can be best attained by their carrying out their motto, ”Keep thy tongue, thy hand, and thy heart,” and by the observance of His precepts.
CHAPTER XI
GAMES
The Turk is too indolent by nature to care for any sports requiring physical exertion, and he would rather be a spectator than take an active part in them. There is, besides, a feeling among those that have reached the age of manhood, especially if they are holding some Government office, that their dignity would be lowered if they were seen engaged at play.
A very interesting and pretty sport is the _djirat_. Two companies of hors.e.m.e.n, armed with m.u.f.fled lances, or in some places the stalks of palm-leaves, give each other chase. The pursuers hurl their missiles when at full speed, and those a.s.sailed endeavour to avoid the stroke or to capture the weapon.
Watching ram-fights is a favourite recreation, and crowds gather round the village green to witness these huge creatures, with their long crumpled horns, das.h.i.+ng at each other at full speed. Their heads strike with a resounding thud, and you expect that a skull or two will be broken, but no, it is only fun, and the rams caper gracefully back, to return again to the charge.
c.o.c.k-fights are likewise in repute, and in Cyprus a spur is grafted on to the crest of the bird, giving it the appearance of a sort of winged unicorn.
Professional wrestling is much enjoyed. The two contending parties or _pehlivans_, as they are called, are frequently a negro and a white man; their attire is nothing but a leather pair of drawers. Their bodies are smeared over and made slippery with abundance of olive-oil. The struggle commences by their measuring distances and touching each other's shoulders; then they manoeuvre about and dodge each other, and finally come to grips, until the stronger forces his opponent to the ground.
Turkish wrestlers are so celebrated that they often find their way to this country.
Another entertainment is the ”Shadow Pantomime.” This performance consists in throwing shadows of little cardboard figures against a curtain, on the other side of which the spectators are seated. The exhibitors, carefully hidden from sight, work their marionettes with strings and wires, and are clever in making them move and bow, strike each other, and perform all sorts of feats and somersaults, while a ventriloquist makes them carry on the most animated conversation.
Horse-racing is seldom indulged in in Turkey, except among European residents. An effort made several years ago to introduce racing failed, because, it is alleged, foreign jockeys dared to allow their horses to beat the Sultan's stud. Occasionally, however, Turks get up children's races; they strap the youngsters to the saddle, give them the reins, and speed the horses off with a tremendous swipe.
Fox-hunting is not only unheard of, but is prohibited as cruel, and a Spanish bull-fight was attempted last year for the first time, only on the understanding that no blood would be shed.
Football has recently come somewhat into fas.h.i.+on, but it is only occasionally that the real game is played. Departure from rule is preferred to its observance, and often the game consists of mere kicking of the ball from one to another. This is done with great swagger and conceit, but without any of the true sporting dash.
Tennis is played to some extent, and bicycling is fairly popular, but princ.i.p.ally because it allows the rider to show off.
There are some keen sportsmen among the Turks; and hunting the wild boar offers lively sport coupled with a zest of danger, as these savage animals, if not killed outright, often turn and rip their a.s.sailants with their powerful tusks.
The ”gentle art” of fis.h.i.+ng is largely indulged in as a recreation, and the Bosphorus yields excellent sport. The favourite fis.h.i.+ng there is that of the _lufer_, which weighs from 1 to 3 pounds, and is caught by night, with bright lamps throwing down a beam of light from the boat into the water. A peculiar hook, soldered to a sinker, which is brightened with mercury, is used. Gourmet fishers often take a brazier, with live coals, in the boat, and grill and eat the fish as soon as it is secured.
[Ill.u.s.tration: A HOWLING DERVISH.]
Chess--that most antiquated of games--is known under the name of _satrach_, and differs somewhat from our own, but is as highly scientific. However sceptical we may be about the story in the ”Arabian Nights” of the monkey which played chess with a Grand Vizier, I can vouch for the accuracy of one regarding an Armenian banker who played it with Sultan Aziz. The stakes were properties belonging to the Crown, and so successful was the banker that, finally, his landed possessions extended from the Bosphorus to the Black Sea.
Backgammon is a favourite game; draughts differs slightly from our own, and there is a peculiar form of it played with pebbles, on a checkered board traced on a stone.
Cards are played to some extent, but as gambling and games of chance are forbidden by the Koran, cards are looked upon with suspicion, and their use discouraged. So also is betting, which ensnares young and old in our own country.
Among games for boys I may mention top-spinning. Turkish tops are made from hard wood, turned in a lathe, and painted with bands of various colours. They are spun with the thumb and the finger, or with a string, and then kept in motion with a whip and cord. A point in the game is to direct the top so that it should b.u.mp against the opponent's, and topple it over.
Kite-flying is popular, and in early spring hundreds of kites may be seen flying from the terraces over the house-tops. They are shaped like our own, and are made with bright-coloured paper, with long tails of paper strips. Little splints of wood or cane are attached to the tail for the purpose of entangling and capturing other kites. This is done by manoeuvring them about, letting them drop momentarily or rise suddenly, so as to swoop over their adversary and capture it. When these air-s.h.i.+ps have boarded, both the fliers pull in the string as rapidly as possible, and it sometimes happens that the vanquished kite is after all the victor.
Hop-scotch is as ancient as the hills, and is played in Turkey in much the same way as with us. So also are marbles and tip-cat, with the same risks, in the case of tip-cat, to the eyes of beholders as in this country.