Part 83 (1/2)

A very pretty trick, that can be worked in your own parlor, will produce as much sensation as a fake ”medium.” In all appearance, a violin, mandolin or guitar, placed on a table, will begin to produce music simply through stamping the foot and a few pa.s.ses of the hand. The music will not sound natural, but weird and distant.

The trick is done by placing the end of a small stick on a music box in the bas.e.m.e.nt of the house and allowing the other end to pa.s.s up through the floor and table top so it will project about 1/16 in. The stick may be placed by the side of, behind or through the center of a table leg. Be careful not to have any obstruction in the way of the stick. The instrument is placed sideways on the protruding end of the stick. The ”fake” work of invoking the ”spirit” is performed and ended by stamping the foot, which signals the operator in the bas.e.m.e.nt to start the machine, and the violin seemingly produces music without anyone touching it.

So impressive are the results, that many people really think the spirits of the departed are playing the violin with unseen hands.

The music is transmitted through the stick from the music box to the violin.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The Music Produced by the Phonograph is Transmitted to the Viohn on the Second Floor by the Aid of a Long Stick]

** Sizing a Threaded Hole [295]

It sometimes becomes necessary to transfer the size of a threaded hole from some out-of-the-way place to the shop in order to make a piece to fit it. With proper tools this is easy; without them, it might be difficult. One thing is always at hand and that is wood.

Whittle a stick tapering until it starts in the hole. Then turn it into the hole and a fair thread will be made on the wood. The stick can be carried in the pocket without risk of changing the size, as would be the case with ordinary calipers.

** Leaded-Gla.s.s Fire Screen [295]

The main frame of the fire screen shown in Fig. 1 is made from two pieces of 1/2-in. square bar iron. The longest piece, which should be about 5-1/2 ft. long, is bent square so as to form two uprights, each 28 in. long and measuring 26 in. across the top.

The bottom crosspiece can be either riveted or welded to the uprights. Two pairs of feet, each 6 in. long and spread about 8 in. apart, are shaped as shown in Fig. 2. These are welded to the lower end of the uprights.

The ornamental scrollwork on the frame is simple and effective, and is easy to construct, says Work, London. The scrolls are attached to the frame by means of 3/16-in. round-head machine screws. The leaf ornament at the

[Ill.u.s.tration: Completed Fire Screen and Parts]

termination of the scroll is shaped and embossed as shown in Fig.

3. The metal used for the scrolls is 3/16 in. thick by 1/2 in.

wide. The leaf ornament is formed by turning over the end of a piece of metal and working it together at a welding heat, and then shaping out the leaf with' a chisel and files, after which they are embossed with a ballpeen hammer.

The center is made from colored gla.s.s of special make for leaded work. The design is formed in the lead, of which a cross section is shown in Fig. 4. Use care to give the lead a symmetrical outline. The design should be drawn full size on a large sheet of heavy paper and the s.p.a.ces to be occupied by the lead cut out so as to leave the exact size and shape of each piece of paper the same as wanted for each piece of gla.s.s. These are used as patterns in marking the gla.s.s for cutting. The gla.s.s is cut the same as ordinary window gla.s.s. The gla.s.s, lead, border and special flux can be purchased from an art gla.s.s shop.

After the gla.s.s is cut, the work of putting the pieces together with the lead between them is begun. Secure a board as wide as the screen--several narrow boards put together will do and begin by placing one vertical side border, A, Fig. 5, and the base border, B, on it as shown. Place the corner piece of gla.s.s, C, in the grooves of the borders, cut a long piece of lead, D, and hold it in place with two or three brads or glazier's points. The piece of lead E is cut and a small tenon joint made as shown in Fig. 6.

While the piece of lead D, Fig. 5, is held by the brads, the piece E can be fitted and soldered. The soldering is done with a hot soldering iron and wire solder, using rosin as a flux, or, better still, special flux purchased for this purpose. After the joints are soldered, the piece of gla.s.s F is put in place and the lead held with brads as before until the cross leads are fitted and soldered. The brads are then removed, the gla.s.s piece as shown by the dotted lines put in, and the leads around it held with brads until the crosspieces are put in and soldered. This method is pursued until the gla.s.s is complete, then the two remaining vertical and top pieces of border are put on and all corners soldered.

The leaded gla.s.s is held in the iron frame by means of eight U-shaped clips, as shown in Fig. 7. A hole is drilled in the frame for the retaining screw, the latter being tapped to the base of the clip. Special screws may be made with ornamental heads, as shown in Fig. 8, and used for securing the side scrolls and clips together.

** A Revolving Teeter Board [297]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Details of Teeter Board ]

The accompanying sketch shows the details of a revolving teeter board for the children's playground that can be constructed in a few hours. Secure a post, not less than 4 in. square and of the length given in the drawing, and round the corners of one end for a ring. This ring can be made of 1-in. strap iron and it should be shrunk on the post. Bore a 3/4-in. hole in the end of the post for the center pin to rest in. Make three washers 3-in. in diameter and 1/4 in. thick and drill 3/4-in. holes through their centers.

Drill and countersink two smaller holes for 2-in. wood screws in each washer. Fasten one of these washers to the top of the post as shown. The post is now ready to be set in the ground. Coa.r.s.e gravel should be packed tightly about it to make it solid.

Concrete is much better if it can be secured.

To make the swivel you will need two 1/4 by 5 by 8-in. plates, rounded at the top as shown, and two wood blocks, A and B, each 3-1/2 by 5 by 10 in. Drill the lower ends of the plates for four 2-1/2-in. lag screws and the upper ends for a 5/8-in. bolt. Fasten the plates to the block B, then drill a 3/4-in. hole as shown and fasten the two remaining washers to the block, one on each side and central with the hole. Bore a 5/8-in. hole lengthwise through the block A for the 5/8-in. rocker bolt. This bolt should be 11-1/2 in. long.

The teeter board is made of a 2 by 12-in. plank about 12 ft. long.