Part 20 (1/2)

[Ill.u.s.tration: Pneumatic Door-Opener]

bra.s.s, E, soldered to the end of the cylinder. All this apparatus is on the inside of the door and is connected by a small rubber tube, F, to a secret mouthpiece placed at some convenient location. A small piece of spring bra.s.s, screwed to the door frame, will open the door about 1/2 in. when the operator blows in the mouthpiece, or if the door is within reach of the mouthpiece, the operator may push the door at the same time that he blows, thus doing away with the spring, which is only used to keep the door from relocking.

One way of making the air connection with the outside is to bend the tube F around and stick it through the keyhole. Few burglars would ever think to blow in the keyhole.

--Contributed by Orton E. White, Buffalo, N. Y.

** A Homemade Water Motor [66]

By MRS. PAUL S. WINTER

In these days of modern improvements, most houses are equipped with a was.h.i.+ng machine, and the question that arises in the mind of the householder is how to furnish the power to run it economically. I referred this question to my husband, with the result that he built a motor which proved so very satisfactory that I prevailed upon him to give the readers of Amateur Mechanics a description of it, hoping it may solve the same question for them.

A motor of this type will develop about 1/2 hp. with a water pressure of 70 lb. The power developed is correspondingly increased or decreased as the pressure exceeds or falls below this. In the latter case the power may be increased by using a smaller pulley. Fig. 1 is the motor with one side removed, showing the paddle-wheel in position; Fig. 2 is an end view; Fig. 3 shows one of the paddles, and Fig. 4 shows the method of shaping the paddles. To make the frame, several lengths of scantling 3 in.

wide by 1 in. thick (preferably of hard wood) are required. Cut two of them 4 ft. long, to form the main supports of the frame, AA, Fig. 1 ; another, 2 ft. 6 in. long, for the top, B, Fig. 1; another, 26 in. long, to form the slanting part, C, Fig. 1; and another, D, approximately 1 ft., according to the slant given C.

After nailing these together as shown in the ill.u.s.tration, nail two short strips on each side of the outlet, as at E, to keep the frame from spreading.

Cut two pieces 30 in. long. Lay these on the sides of the frame with their center lines along the line FF, which is 15 in. from the outside top of the frame. They are shown in Fig. 2 at GG. Do not fasten these boards now, but mark their position on the frame.

Two short boards 1 in. wide

[Ill.u.s.tration: Detail of Homemade Waterwheel]

by 1 in. thick (HH, Fig. 2) and another 1 in. by 1-1/2 in. (I, Fig. 2) form a substantial base.

Cut the wheel from sheet iron 1/16 in. thick, 24 in. in diameter.

This can be done roughly with hammer and chisel and then smoothed up on an emery wheel, after which cut 24 radial slots 3/4 in. deep on its circ.u.mference by means of a hacksaw. On each side of the wheel at the center fasten a rectangular piece of 1/4-in. iron 3 by 4 in. and secure it to the wheel by means of four rivets; after which drill a 5/8 in. hole through the exact center of the wheel.

Cut 24 pieces of 1/32-in. iron, 1-1/2 by 2-1/2 in. These are the paddles. Shape them by placing one end over a section of 1-in.

pipe, and hammer bowl shaped with the peen of a hammer, as shown in Fig. 4. Then cut them into the shape shown in Fig. 3 and bend the tapered end in along the lines JJ, after which place them in the slots of the wheel and bend the sides over to clamp the wheel.

Drill 1/8-in. holes through the wheel and sides of the paddles and rivet paddles in place. Next secure a 5/8-in. steel shaft 12 in.

long to the wheel about 8 in. from one end by means of a key. This is done by cutting a groove in the shaft and a corresponding groove in the wheel and fitting in a piece of metal in order to secure the wheel from turning independently of the shaft. Procure two collars or round pieces of bra.s.s (KK, Fig. 2) with a 5/8-in.

hole through them, and fasten these to the shaft by means of set screws to prevent it from moving lengthwise.

Make the nozzle by taking a piece of 1/2-in. galvanized pipe 3-1/2 in. long and filling it with babbitt metal; then drill a 3/16-in.

hole through its center. Make this hole conical, tapering from 3/16 in. to a full 1/2 in. This is best done by using a square taper reamer. Then place the nozzle in the position shown in Fig.

1, which allows the stream of water to strike the buckets full in the center when they reach the position farthest to the right.

Take the side pieces, GG, and drill a 1-in. hole through their sides centrally, and a 1/4-in. hole from the tops to the 1-in.

holes. Fasten them in their proper position, with the wheel and shaft in place, the shaft projecting through the holes just mentioned. Now block the wheel; that is, fasten it by means of wedges or blocks of wood until the shaft is exactly in the center of the inch holes in the side pieces. Cut four disks of cardboard to slip over the shaft and large enough to cover the inch holes.

Two of these are to be inside and two outside of the frames (one to bear against each side of each crosspiece). Fasten these to the crosspieces by means of tacks to hold them securely. Pour melted babbitt metal into the 1/4-in. hole to form the bearings. When it has cooled, remove the cardboard, take down the crosspieces, and drill a 1/8-in. hole from the top of the crosspieces through the babbitt for an oil-hole.

Secure sufficient sheet zinc to cover the sides of the frame. Cut the zinc to the same shape as the frame and let it extend down to the crosspieces EE. Tack one side on. (It is well to tack strips of heavy cloth--burlap will do--along the edges under the zinc to form a water-tight joint.) Fasten the crosspiece over the zinc in its proper position. Drill a hole through the zinc, using the hole in the crosspiece as a guide. Then put the wheel in a central position in the frame, tack the other side piece of zinc in place and put the other crosspiece in place. Place the two collars mentioned before on the shaft, and fasten so as to bear against the crosspieces, in order to prevent the wheel and shaft from moving sidewise. If the bearings are now oiled, the shaft should turn easily and smoothly. Fasten a pulley 4 or 6 in. in diameter to the longest arm of the shaft.