Part 9 (1/2)

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 116. Circular-Plane.]

The _universal plane_, Fig. 117, is a combination of various molding-, rabbeting-, matching- and other planes. It is capable of many adjustments and applications. The princ.i.p.al parts of this plane are: a _main stock_, _A_, with two sets of transverse sliding arms, a _depth-gage_, _F_, adjusted by a screw, and a _slitting cutter_ with stop, a _sliding section_, _B_, with a vertically adjustable bottom, the _auxiliary center bottom_, _C_, to be placed when needed in front of the cutter as an extra support or stop. This bottom is adjustable both vertically and laterally. _Fences_, _D and E_. For fine work, fence _D_ has a lateral adjustment by means of a thumb-screw. The fences can be used on either side of the plane, and the rosewood guides can be tilted to any desired angle up to 45, by loosening the screws on the face. Fence _E_ can be reversed for center-beading wide boards. For work thinner than the depth of the fence, the work may overhang the edge of the bench and fence _E_ be removed. An _adjustable stop_, to be used in beading the edges of matched boards, is inserted on the left side of the sliding section _B_. A great variety of cutters are supplied, such as: molding, matching, sash, beading, reeding, fluting, hollow, round, plow, rabbet, and filletster. Special shapes can be obtained by order.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 117. Universal Plane.]

_The Use of the Universal Plane._ Insert the proper cutter, adjusting it so that the portion of it in line with the main stock, _A_, will project below the sole the proper distance for cutting.

Adjust the bottom of the sliding section, _B_, so that the lowest portion of the cutter will project the proper distance below it for cutting. Tighten the check nuts on the transverse arms and _then_ tighten the thumb-screws which secure the sliding section to the arms.

The sliding section is not always necessary, as in a narrow rabbet or bead.

When an additional support is needed for the cutter, the auxiliary center bottom, _C_, may be adjusted in front of it. This may also be used as a stop.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 118. Iron Spokeshave.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 119. Pattern-maker's Spokeshave.]

Adjust one or both of the fences, _D_ and _E_, and fasten with the thumb-screws. Adjust the depth-gage, _F_, at the proper depth.

For a _dado_ remove the fences and set the spurs parallel with the edges of the cutter. Insert the long adjustable stop on the left hand of the sliding section. For slitting, insert the cutter and stop on the right side of the main stock and use either fence for a guide.

For a _chamfer_, insert the desired cutter, and tilt the rosewood guides on the fences to the required angle. For _chamfer beading_ use in the same manner, and gradually feed the cutter down by means of the adjusting thumb-nut.

There are also a number of planelike tools such as the following:

The _spoke-shave_, Fig. 118, works on the same principle as a plane, except that the guiding surface is very short. This adapts it to work with curved outlines. It is a sort of regulated draw-shave. It is sometimes made of iron with an adjustable mouth, which is a convenient form for beginners to use, and is easy to sharpen. The _pattern-makers spokeshave_, Fig. 119, which has a wooden frame, is better suited to more careful work. The method of using the spokeshave is shown in Fig.

120. (See p. 100.)

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 120. Using a Spokeshave.]

The _router-plane_, Figs. 121 and 122, is used to lower a certain part of a surface and yet keep it parallel with the surrounding part, and it is particularly useful in cutting panels, dadoes, and grooves. The cutter has to be adjusted for each successive cut. Where there are a number of dadoes to be cut of the same depth, it is wise not to finish them one at a time, but to carry on the cutting of all together, lowering the cutter after each round. In this way all the dadoes will be finished at exactly the same depth.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 121. Router-Plane.]

The _dowel-pointer_, Fig. 123, is a convenient tool for removing the sharp edges from the ends of dowel pins. It is held in a brace. The cutter is adjustable and is removable for sharpening.

The _cornering tool_, Fig. 124, is a simple device for rounding sharp corners. A cutter at each end cuts both ways so that it can be used with the grain without changing the position of the work. The depth of the cut is fixed.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 122. Using a Router-Plane.]

2. BORING TOOLS.

Some boring tools, like awls, force the material apart, and some, like augers, remove material.

The _brad-awl_, Fig. 125, is wedge-shaped, and hence care needs to be taken in using it to keep the edge across the grain so as to avoid splitting the wood, especially thin wood. The size is indicated by the length of the blade when new,--a stupid method. The awl is useful for making small holes in soft wood, and it can readily be sharpened by grinding.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 123. Dowel-Pointer.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 124. Cornering Tool.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 125. Brad-Awl.]