Part 16 (1/2)

There are some smaller 2-cup molds (the Corinthian column is adorable) or English china pudding basins that will fit in the small or medium rice cooker, but the following recipes are designed for a 1 quart (6-cup) mold. If you use a 3-cup mold, just cut the recipe in half. While so many other of the metal molds are beautiful, they may be too tall for the rice cooker cover to sit properly and enclose the steam.

The technique for steaming is simple. The mold is b.u.t.tered and never filled past two-thirds to allow for expansion. Snap on the lid or cover. It is set on a rack or trivet in rapidly simmering water that should come halfway up the sides of the mold. In the large rice cooker, that is at the 5-cup line on the side of the bowl. It is important to check periodically in case the water has boiled off and needs to be replenished, but we found the rice cooker to be very efficient here; about 1 inches of water boiled off every 25 to 30 minutes.

Warm steamed puddings should have a complementary sauce, ice cream, or liqueur-flavored whipped cream to proclaim them ready to eat.

How to Make Individual Steamed Puddings Spoon the batter into well-b.u.t.tered ceramic ramekins, china pudding basins, Pyrex custard cups, or even ovenproof coffee cups, filling them two-thirds full. Securely cover each with a piece of b.u.t.tered aluminum foil and crimp the edges to seal. Set the steaming rack in place in the bottom of the cooker or place a wire rack in the bottom of the cooker and arrange the molds on the rack (they can be touching); you will probably have to steam in two batches. Pour in 1 to 2 inches of hot water, reaching only halfway up the molds. Turn on the cooker and bring the water to a boil. Steam until set, 25 to 35 minutes, depending on the size of the cups. Remove from the cooker with metal tongs and place on a wire rack. Remove the foil cover, run a knife around the sides to release the pudding, and turn out onto the rack. Serve warm or at room temperature with a sauce of choice. The small puddings are great to douse in a teaspoon of brandy and ignite (carefully) at serving time.

english pudding with cranberries and walnuts This is an Americanized version of the very traditional, very beloved English pudding called spotted d.i.c.k, which originally called for shredded suet and raisins. We discovered this recipe while researching recipes to run with a newspaper story on the food eaten by Harry Potter and his cohorts. This pudding is unusual because there are no eggs or b.u.t.ter in the ingredients and it still makes a luscious, nicely textured pudding. It takes literally minutes to combine. Serve with a package of Bird's custard sauce made according to the package instructions, if you want to be very English, or else use the following recipe for old-fas.h.i.+oned boiled custard.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8 to 10 cup hot water cup light mola.s.ses2 teaspoons baking soda teaspoon salt teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamon1 cups all-purpose flour (Beth uses White Lily bleached all-purpose flour, a southern favorite, unsifted right out of the bag)2 cups fresh or frozen (and thawed) cranberries cup chopped walnutsEnglish Custard Sauce (page optional optional) 1. Set up the rice cooker for steaming by placing a small trivet or wire cooling rack in the bottom of the rice bowl. Fill the bowl one-quarter to one-third full of hot water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. If the water boils before you are ready to steam the pudding, flip the switch to the Keep Warm position (switch back for cooking). Generously grease or coat the inside of a 1-quart (6-cup) round melon-shaped tin pudding mold with a clip-on lid with b.u.t.ter-flavored nonstick cooking spray.

2. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients in the order given with a large rubber spatula. Stir well with a folding motion until evenly moistened.

3. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared mold, filling it two-thirds full; snap on the lid. Set the mold on the trivet or wire rack in the bottom of the cooker, making sure it is centered and not tipped. Close the cover and reset the cooker for the regular cycle to bring back to a rolling boil, if necessary. Set a timer and steam for 1 hour, checking a few times to be sure the water doesn't boil off. Check the pudding for doneness; it should feel slightly firm to the touch, yet slightly moist. It should be puffed, rising to fill the mold, and a cake tester inserted in the center should come out clean. Unplug the machine to turn it off.

4. Using oven mitts, carefully transfer the mold from the steamer to a wire rack and remove the lid. Let stand for a few minutes, then turn upside down to unmold the pudding onto the rack or a serving plate.

5. Serve still warm, cut into wedges, or at room temperature, with custard sauce, if you like.

english custard sauce YIELD: 2 cups2 cups whole milk cup sugar1 teaspoon cornstarch5 large egg yolks1 teaspoons pure vanilla extract or 1 tablespoons Amaretto 1. In a medium-size saucepan over medium heat, scald the milk. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl or food processor, combine the sugar and cornstarch. Whisk in the egg yolks and vanilla. Beat hard with a whisk or process briefly until light colored and foamy. Whisking constantly, or with the food processor running, add the hot milk gradually to the egg mixture. Pour the custard back into the saucepan.

3. Cook the sauce gently over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a whisk, until just slightly thickened and smooth, and the sauce coats a spoon, about 5 minutes; do not boil. Pour the sauce into a storage bowl and let cool to room temperature. Refrigerate, covered, until serving time. Serve cold, pouring a little vanilla extract or Amaretto around each wedge of pudding.

persimmon pudding with brandy sauce The apple of the Orient is our orange globe of fall called the persimmon, a sign that the holidays are here in California. The neighborhoods are dotted with trees outfitted with the fetching pointed ovals. It's easy to beg a few because most trees are so abundant and it is a much misunderstood old-fas.h.i.+oned fruit. You want the goopy Hachiya persimmon, which is pointed at the base, not the crisp, flatter Fuyu, which is good in salads. You can freeze the ripe fruit whole or store the pulp in plastic storage containers, so you can have persimmon pudding, bread, or cookies in the summer. If someone says they don't like persimmons, just serve them a slice of this spicy-sweet pud; they will love it.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8 to 103 to 4 very ripe Hachiya persimmons (jelly-like)1 cups sugar cup ( stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted3 tablespoons Cognac2 large eggs1 cups unbleached all-purpose flour1 tablespoon ground cinnamon teaspoon salt cups chopped pecans cup dark raisins or dried cherries1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice2 tablespoons hot water2 teaspoons baking sodaBrandy Sauce 1. Set up the rice cooker for steaming by placing a small trivet or wire cooling rack in the bottom of the rice bowl. Fill the bowl one-quarter to one-third full of hot water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. If the water boils before you are ready to steam the pudding, flip the switch to the Keep Warm position (switch back for cooking). Generously grease or coat the inside of a 1-quart (6-cup) round melon-shaped tin pudding mold with a clip-on lid with a b.u.t.ter-flavored nonstick cooking spray.

2. Remove the stems and skins from the persimmons (we slit them open and squeeze out the gooey pulp). Mash the pulp to make 1 to 1 cups. In a large bowl, whisk together the pulp, sugar, b.u.t.ter, Cognac, and eggs; beat until smooth. Switching to a large rubber spatula, stir in the flour, cinnamon, salt, pecans, raisins, and lemon juice; beat until combined. In a small bowl, stir together the hot water and baking soda. Pour into the batter and stir until well mixed.

3. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared mold, filling it two-thirds full; snap on the lid. Set the mold on the trivet or wire rack in the bottom of the cooker, making sure it is centered and not tipped. Close the cover and reset the cooker for the regular cycle to bring back to a rolling boil, if necessary. Set a timer and steam for 1 hour and 10 minutes, checking a few times to be sure the water doesn't boil off. Check the pudding for doneness; it should feel slightly firm to the touch, yet slightly moist. It should be puffed, rising to fill the mold, and a cake tester inserted in the center should come out clean. Unplug the machine to turn it off.

4. Using oven mitts, carefully transfer the mold from the steamer to a wire rack and remove the lid. Let stand for a few minutes, then turn upside down to unmold the pudding onto the rack or a serving plate.

5. Serve still warm, cut into wedges, or at room temperature, with spoonfuls of the Brandy Sauce.

brandy sauce YIELD: 3 cups1 large egg cup unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted and still hot1 cup sifted confectioners'sugarDash of salt2 teaspoons Cognac2 teaspoons Amaretto1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract1 cup cold heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks In a medium-size bowl, beat the egg until light colored with an electric mixer. On low speed, drizzle in the b.u.t.ter, which will cook the egg; beat on medium-high speed for 15 seconds to thicken. Beat in the sugar, salt, Cognac, Amaretto, and vanilla, then fold in the whipped cream. Refrigerate in a covered container up to 2 hours before serving. Stir gently with a whisk, if necessary, before serving.

mohr im hemd Mohr im Hemd, or Moor in a s.h.i.+rt, is a Viennese steamed chocolate and ground nut pudding topped with whipped cream to make a pure black-and-white dessert. It emerges as a delicate spongy cake with an almost oozy center, which is exactly the way it should be. Pure elegance. If you use a very bittersweet chocolate like Sharffen Berger, you don't have to use the two different chocolates, just 5 ounces of the one. This is a recipe Beth got from one of her all-time favorite cooking teachers, baker and pastry artist Diane Dexter.

MACHINE: Large (10-cup) rice cooker ;on/off onlyCYCLE: RegularYIELD: Serves 8 to 104 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped1 ounce unsweetened chocolate cup (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter2 slices dried-out white bread (sweet French bread or egg bread), crusts removed and pulled into pieces1 cup (4 ounces) whole almonds cup warm heavy cream teaspoon pure almond extract2 tablespoons all-purpose flour cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar4 large eggsPinch of salt1 cups cold heavy cream3 tablespoons sifted confectioners'sugar 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1. Place the chocolates and b.u.t.ter in the top of a double boiler and melt over simmering water.

2. Place the bread in a food processor and grind to coa.r.s.e crumbs. You will have about 1 cup coa.r.s.e-ground fresh bread crumbs. Add the almonds and process with the bread crumbs until finely ground. Place the mixture in a medium-size bowl and add the cup warm cream and almond extract. Stir and let stand for 5 minutes.

3. Set up the rice cooker for steaming by placing a small trivet or 5-inch-diameter wire rack in the bottom of the rice bowl. Fill the bowl one-quarter to one-third full of hot water, close the cover, and set for the regular cycle. If the water boils before you are ready to steam the pudding, flip the switch to the Keep Warm position (switch back for cooking). Generously grease or coat the inside of a 1-quart (6-cup) round melon-shaped tin pudding mold with a clip-on lid with b.u.t.ter-flavored nonstick cooking spray. Combine the flour and 2 table spoons of the granulated sugar and dust the mold.

4. In a medium-size mixing bowl, beat the eggs, the remaining 2.3 cup granulated sugar, and the salt, using an electric mixer on high speed, until thick and light colored, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, with a large rubber spatula, add the melted chocolate to the soaked crumbs. Fold the egg mixture into the crumb-chocolate mixture.

5. Sc.r.a.pe the batter into the prepared mold, filling it two-thirds full; snap on the lid. Set the mold on the trivet or wire rack in the bottom of the cooker, making sure it is centered and not tipped. Close the cover and reset the cooker for the regular cycle to bring back to a rolling boil, if necessary. Set a timer and steam for 1 hour, checking a few times to be sure the water doesn't boil off.

6. Meanwhile, whip the 1 cups cold cream with an electric mixer in a medium-size bowl until just thickened; add the confectioners'sugar and vanilla. Beat until soft peaks form. Refrigerate until serving.

7. Check the pudding for doneness; it should feel slightly firm to the touch, yet slightly moist. It should be puffed, rising to fill the mold, and a cake tester inserted in the center should come out clean. Unplug the machine to turn it off. Using oven mitts, carefully transfer the mold from the steamer to a wire rack and remove the lid. Let stand for a few minutes, then turn upside down to unmold the pudding onto the rack or a serving plate.

8. Serve the pudding still warm, cut into wedges, or at room temperature, with spoonfuls of the whipped cream. Pa.s.s the extra whipped cream in a separate bowl.

WHAT IS THE BEST DESSERT CUSTARD CUP?There are three main types of heatproof individual dishes suitable for steaming custards. The following recipes are designed to be used in these types of containers.Apilco and Emile Henri brands, available from specialty cookware stores, come in 3-inch-diameter ramekins with a -cup (4-ounce) capacity. Four of these will fit comfortably in the 10-inch-diameter steamer basket. If you are using a smaller rice cooker with the metal steamer tray insert, you will only be able to fit three at one time. The Apilco ramekin, really a miniature souffle dish, is always made of plain white French porcelain, while Emile Henri ceramics come in a range of earthy colors.Pyrex custard cups, easily available in most supermarkets and hardware stores, are 4 inches in diameter with a -cup (6-ounce) capacity. One-half cup of custard fits in this size as well. Three of these will fit comfortably in the 10-inch-diameter steamer basket (in the large rice cooker). If you are using a smaller rice cooker with the metal steamer tray insert, you will only be able to fit two custard cups at one time; cover and refrigerate the extra custard, steaming in batches.If you use the stacked 10-inch-diameter steamer baskets, you can double any recipe and steam a double rack of custards at one time. That means you can place two Pyrex cups on each level to steam the entire recipe at one time.

alchemy for RICE LEFTOVERS Plain Rice and Green Tea (Ochazuke) j.a.panese-Style Leftover Rice Soup Fried Shrimp Brown Rice Plain Fried Rice, Egg, and Peas Mushroom Fried Rice with Walnutsand Scallions Sausage and Portobello Fried Rice Fried Wild Rice with Chicken and Vegetables Poo Khao Phat Supparot (Thai Pineapple Fried Jasmine Rice with Crab) Smoky Seafood Fried Rice Saute of Corn, Brown Rice, and Fresh Basil Black Bean,Corn, and Rice Salad with Green Chile Vinaigrette Waldorf Rice Salad Lentil and Brown Rice Salad Curried Rice Salad Autumn Rice and Wheat Berry Salad Barley Salad with Fresh Dill and Vegetables Quinoa Tabboule j.a.panese Rice and Cabbage Salad Wild Rice Salad with Cranberries and Berry Vinaigrette Creamy Rice Salad with Fresh Fruits Rice Pancakes Savory Wild Rice Pancakes Leftover Risotto Pancakes b.u.t.termilk Rice Breakfast Pancakes Once you get comfortable with your rice cooker, you will find how easy it is to make and enjoy fresh rice on a daily basis. With that comes the inevitable: leftover rice. While rice is fluffy and moist when hot, the same component that keeps it this way ”retrogrades” (a technical term to describe the hardening of the starch in the center of each grain) when chilled. The degree of retrogradation is slightly different in each rice, depending on how much starch is in the rice. A lot of cooks especially like jasmine rice for its ability to stay a bit softer after refrigeration than other white rices. Short- and medium-grain rices, ones that end up with a lot of starch surrounding the grain after cooking, will retrograde into a solid ma.s.s (risotto is a good example here). A dish like fried rice or a stuffing is perfect with hardened, crunchy rice; it holds its shape during secondary cooking. The best rice salads are made with rice that has not been refrigerated first. Just let the rice sit on the counter, covered, as long as overnight before adding the other ingredients; the rice is perfectly safe and will not spoil quickly. Of course, after adding the other ingredients, you must refrigerate the salad.

We keep leftovers in small plastic freezer bags, ready to be defrosted overnight in the refrigerator or in the microwave, to add to recipes. The first preparation that comes to mind for leftover rice is fried rice, improvised in the kitchen and made anew with each batch. Rice is also a great ingredient in other recipes, such as in soups, fried rice, rice salads, and pancakes, just to name a few. We have a.s.sembled a selection here to get you inspired, but remember your leftover rice for stuffings, ca.s.seroles, m.u.f.fins, and yeast breads as well.

plain rice and green tea (ochazuke) Ochazuke is as simple as it gets: plain cooked rice warmed up with brewed green tea, in roughly the same proportions as cereal and milk. is as simple as it gets: plain cooked rice warmed up with brewed green tea, in roughly the same proportions as cereal and milk. Ochazuke Ochazuke is such popular j.a.paneseAmerican family food that it even has a baby talk name: is such popular j.a.paneseAmerican family food that it even has a baby talk name: cha-cha gohan cha-cha gohan ( (cha-cha refers to the tea; refers to the tea; gohan gohan is rice). The rice can be fresh from your rice cooker's Keep Warm cycle or at room temperature. If it has been refrigerated, you may wish to reheat it slightly, either in the rice cooker or in the microwave. At the very least, remove it from the fridge while you prepare the tea. It can be a snack, a quick, light meal, or a way to end a family supper. If you wish, you can eat your tea rice with j.a.panese pickles or a pickled plum (umebos.h.i.+). is rice). The rice can be fresh from your rice cooker's Keep Warm cycle or at room temperature. If it has been refrigerated, you may wish to reheat it slightly, either in the rice cooker or in the microwave. At the very least, remove it from the fridge while you prepare the tea. It can be a snack, a quick, light meal, or a way to end a family supper. If you wish, you can eat your tea rice with j.a.panese pickles or a pickled plum (umebos.h.i.+).

YIELD: Serves 21 cups cooked j.a.panese-style white rice1 cup freshly brewed hot green tea Divide the rice between two bowls. Pour the hot tea over the rice and serve.

j.a.panese-style leftover rice soup This is a type of zosui zosui, the quick j.a.panese rice porridge made with cooked rice (as opposed to okai okai or or okayu okayu, which is made on the Porridge cycle or on the stove with raw rice). It is a great fridge-emptier for lunch the day after you've fixed a chicken dinner and have just one or two pieces left over. This recipe is from Julie's friend Sharon Noguchi, who learned to make it when she lived in Tokyo.

YIELD: Serves 22 large or 3 small dried or fresh s.h.i.+take mushrooms3 cups waterOne 1-inch square kombu (the seaweed used to make Das.h.i.+) cup grated carrot cup cooked skinless chicken cut into small chunks (or use another type of rather plain cooked meat)1 cup sliced Napa cabbage leaves cut crosswise inch thick cup frozen pet.i.te peas1 cups cooked j.a.panese-style white rice1 or 2 large eggsSalt (optional)Prepared chile sauce, chile paste, or chile oil, or a few drops of soy sauce (optional) 1. If you are using dried mushrooms, soften them by soaking in hot water to cover for 30 minutes, or microwave them. To microwave, place the mushrooms in a container just large enough to hold them and add water just to cover. Cover the container tightly with plastic wrap and micro wave on high for 2 minutes. Let the mushrooms rest until they are cool enough to handle. Drain.

2. Meanwhile, place the water in a medium-size saucepan. Gently clean the kombu square by wiping it with a damp paper towel, but do not remove the white powder, which adds flavor. Place the kombu in the water. Turn the heat to high. When the water boils, turn off the heat.

3. To prepare the softened mushrooms, trim off the tough stems and discard. Slice the caps as thinly as possible. If you are using fresh mushrooms, simply trim away the stems and thinly slice the caps. Add the mushrooms to the pan with the kombu, along with the carrot and chicken, and turn the heat to high again. Stir in the cabbage and peas. When the mixture comes to a boil, stir in the rice. Gently pour in the beaten egg in a swirl pattern, letting it set for a few seconds before stirring. The result will be threads of egg. Cook 2 to 3 minutes more, until the rice begins to soften.

4. Serve immediately, seasoned (if you wish) with salt to taste; a dash of chile sauce, paste, or oil; or just a few drops of soy sauce.

FRIED RICE.

Giving recipes for fried rice is like giving recipes for tossed green salad. Yes, you can go to the store, buy specific items, and follow a recipe if you wish, but few salads are actually made that way. In reality, salad-makers open their crisper drawers and toss in what's there. Leafy greens, yes, and the rest depends on what's on hand.

It's pretty much the same with fried rice, which is popular in many Asian countries, and in the United States, too. ”Fried rice for dinner is a staple for me,” says Judith Dunbar Hines, cultural liaison for the city of Chicago and former cooking teacher and recipe development consultant. ”I always make double the amount of rice, usually Thai jasmine, keep two-inch chunks of bacon in the freezer, then mix and match with what is in the refrigerator-bits of raw or cooked vegetables and leftover chicken or pork. It is a different dish every time.” To make fried rice, you need rice, of course, some kind of onion, and whatever else you like-eggs, garlic, vegetables, bits of meat or seafood; all of these are good. Using some of these ingredients-or none of these-is also fine. Your seasoning can be as plain as a dash of salt and pepper or a splash of soy sauce or fish sauce, or you can use more elaborate bottled condiments such as oyster sauce and chile paste.

Usually cookbooks have only one or two fried rice recipes at best, so we took it upon ourselves to gather a few favorite recipes from friends who are fried rice lovers. In the pages that follow, you can find some really special recipes. But first, here are some general tips for making fried rice. After reading them, you'll be ready to clean out your own refrigerator!

CLICK TO SEE THE BASICS : FRIED RICE.

fried shrimp brown rice This recipe is adapted from one in All American Waves of Grain All American Waves of Grain by Barbara Grunes and Virginia Van Dynckt (Henry Holt, 1997), one of Beth's favorite books. The recipe has had a few trans.m.u.tations with every making, but it is a delightfully savory fried rice with small shrimp (we like to use the 51/60 count). The omelet is a snap to cut into strips with a nice pair of kitchen shears, such as ones made by KitchenAid, with blades that are as sharp as a paring knife and used only for food. We use the authors' tip to use very cold rice (made the day before), even frozen rice that has just been taken out of the freezer before stir-frying, which seems to be especially important when using tender brown rices. by Barbara Grunes and Virginia Van Dynckt (Henry Holt, 1997), one of Beth's favorite books. The recipe has had a few trans.m.u.tations with every making, but it is a delightfully savory fried rice with small shrimp (we like to use the 51/60 count). The omelet is a snap to cut into strips with a nice pair of kitchen shears, such as ones made by KitchenAid, with blades that are as sharp as a paring knife and used only for food. We use the authors' tip to use very cold rice (made the day before), even frozen rice that has just been taken out of the freezer before stir-frying, which seems to be especially important when using tender brown rices.

YIELD: Serves 4 to 6 cup dried s.h.i.+take mushrooms3 tablespoons vegetable oil or Asian sesame oil2 large or extra-large eggs, lightly beaten1 large egg white, beaten until foamy2 teaspoons dry white wine2 teaspoons cornstarch pound small shrimp, sh.e.l.led, rinsed, and patted dry4 green onions, white parts and 3 inches of the green parts, chopped1 heaping cup bean sprouts cup coa.r.s.ely grated carrot cup finely diced celery cup finely diced zucchini2 ribs bok choy, chopped, or cup chopped fresh green beans cup reduced-sodium tamari (a thick, strong soy sauce)4 cups cold cooked brown rice, such as long-grain brown Texmati, Wehani, or red riceAsian sesame oil, for serving (optional) 1. Soak the mushrooms in boiling water to cover until nice and soft, about 30 minutes, or microwave, covered tightly with plastic wrap, for 2 minutes. Let cool before draining. Trim away and discard the stems. Mince the caps and set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a 10-inch skillet or wok. Pour in the beaten whole eggs. When they have set, turn the omelet over with 2 spatulas; cook briefly on the second side, but do not brown. Slide the omelet out of the pan onto a plate; cut into thin strips with kitchen shears or a knife.

3. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the egg white, wine, and cornstarch. Add the shrimp and toss to coat.

4. Wipe out the skillet or wok with a paper towel and add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over high heat. Add the shrimp mixture and stir-fry until lightly cooked, about 30 seconds. Transfer the shrimp to a bowl, leaving any liquid in the pan. Add the mushrooms, green onions, sprouts, carrot, celery, zucchini, and bok choy; stir-fry until cooked and warmed through, a few minutes. Add the tamari and rice; stir-fry, breaking up any clumps of rice, until nice and hot, about 5 minutes. Stir in the shrimp and cook until hot.

5. Serve the rice immediately, with a drizzle of sesame oil over the top, if desired.