Part 3 (1/2)
The ”New Mackinaw,” as it is called, distant seven miles from the Old, is on an island about nine miles in circ.u.mference, and covers an area of six thousand acres. Its extreme elevation above the lake is about three hundred and twelve feet. The village and fortress are situated on the southeastern extremity of the island, where there is a good harbor protected by a water battery. The island remained in possession of the British until 1793, when it was surrendered to the United States. It was retaken in 1812, but restored again by the treaty of Ghent, in 1814. It is situated in North lat. 45 54', West lon. 84 30' from Greenwich, being 7 30' west from Was.h.i.+ngton. It is three hundred and fifty miles north of Chicago and about three hundred miles north from Detroit, and about two hundred and fifty miles west of Collingswood, Canada. The fort stands on an elevated ground about two hundred feet above the water. The town contains at present three hotels, six boarding houses, eight dry-goods stores, and seven groceries. Its public buildings are a Court House, Jail, Custom House, Post Office, and Express Office. There are two Churches, the Roman Catholic and Presbyterian.
The first thing we shall notice as a natural attraction on the island, is what is called ”The Arch Rock.” This is a natural arch projecting from the precipice on the northeastern side of the island, about a mile from the fort, and elevated about one hundred and forty feet above the level of the water. Its abutments are formed of calcareous rock, and have been produced by the falling down of great ma.s.ses of rock, leaving a chasm of eighty or ninety feet in height, and covered by the arch which spans it of fifty or sixty feet sweep. The scene presented by cliff and chasm is one of wild grandeur. Like the Natural Bridge of Virginia, it possesses an attraction to all fond of natural curiosities, sufficient of itself to justify a visit to the northern lakes. The view from the beach is particularly grand. Before you is a magnificent arch suspended in mid air. Indian tradition says that this wonderful arch was formed by the giant spirits who inhabited this island. Geological tradition, however, indicates that it was formed by the action of the waters, which were at a remote period much higher than at the present time.
The next object which strikes the attention of the visitors is the ”Sugar Loaf Rock,” a high, isolated, conical rock which, resting upon the elevated plateau that forms the next highest point of the island from that of Fort Holmes, exhibits a rise of some sixty to eighty feet. This is but little less than the elevation of the ridge which forms the crowning plan of the island, and upon which the dismantled post of Fort Holmes is seen, being separated therefrom by a distance not exceeding one hundred and fifty yards. By what violent throe of nature it has become severed from the adjacent ridge, of which it no doubt, formed a part, is matter of curious inquiry. Has nature done this by gradual recession, or by the slow upheaval of the land? On inspection, this rock is found cavernous, slightly crystalline, with its strata distorted in every conceivable direction. In its crevices grow a few cedars and vines. As the visitor approaches it by the road side its effect is grand and imposing; still more so, perhaps, when beheld from the top of the ridge, where its isolated position with its bold form, breaking the outline of the island, strikes the beholder with wonder and admiration.
Robinson's Folly is a high bluff, northeast from the village of Mackinaw, half a mile from the mission house. Soon after the settlement of the modern Mackinaw, Capt. Robinson, of the English army, then commanding this port, had a summer house built on the brow of this bluff, now called Robinson's Folly, for the purpose of enjoying the prospect from that cool and elevated spot. Often he and his brother officers resorted there during the summer days, to while away lonely and tedious hours. Pipes, cigars, and wine, were brought into requisition. No Englishman at that period was without them; in fact, no hospitality or entertainment was complete without them. They were indeed isolated; the nearest white settlements being then Detroit, Green Bay, Saut St. Mary, and Chicago. Communications with these places were not frequent.
A few years after, from the action of the elements, the brow of the bluff, where Robinson's Folly stood, was precipitated to the base of the rock, where the fragments can now be seen, which disastrous event gave rise to its name.
The ”Scull Rock,” half a mile or three quarters northwest from the rear of Fort Mackinaw, is chiefly noted for a cavern, which appears to have been a receptacle for human bones, many of which were still to be observed about its mouth a few years ago. The entrance is low and narrow, and seems to promise little to reward the labors of exploration. It is here probably that Alexander Henry was secreted by the chief Wawatam after the horrid ma.s.sacre of the British garrison at Old Mackinaw.
Chimney Rock well repays the trouble of a visit, with the other points of interest on the island.
Dousman's Farm, two miles west from the Village of Mackinaw, consists of a section of land; the road to the English or British landing pa.s.ses through it, also to Scott's or Flinn's Cave, which is on the northwestern portion of the farm. There are three springs of cold delicious water on this farm, two of them are shaded by beech and maple trees. This farm yields yearly from eighty to one hundred tons of hay, besides a large quant.i.ty of potatoes and other farm produce.
Davenport's Farm, about one and a half miles from the village, is situated on the southwestern portion of the Island. At the base of the bluff, on the south part of this farm, is the Devil's Caves, and near them is a beautiful spring of clear cold water, shaded by evergreens and other trees. Half way up the bluff, which is nearly, if not fully, three hundred feet high at this point; stands out, detached from the limestone, an isolated rock, in appearance similar to the Sugar Loaf Rock, which some persons have called the Lover's Leap; it is worth the trouble of a visit, which a few minutes walk from the village accomplishes. There are several points called Lover's Leap, so called by romantic visitors, within the last few years. A gentleman from Chicago, has purchased this farm, and report says that several summer-houses are to be built upon it, which will enhance the beauty of this locality.
Wm. M. Johnston Esq., furnishes the following tradition of Lover's Leap:
”The huge rock called the 'Lover's Leap' is situated about one mile west of the village of Mackinaw. It is a high perpendicular bluff, one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet in height, rising boldly from the sh.o.r.e of the lake. A solitary pine tree formerly stood upon its brow, which some Vandal has cut down.
”Long before the pale faces profaned this island home of the Genii, a young Ojibwa girl, just maturing into womanhood, often wandered there, and gazed from its dizzy heights and witnessed the receding canoes of the large war parties of the combined bands of the Ojibwas and Ottawas speeding south, seeking for fame and scalps.
”It was there she often sat, mused and hummed the songs Ge-niw-e-gwon loved; this spot was endeared to her, for it was there that she and Ge-niw-e-gwon first met and exchanged words of love, and found an affinity of souls existing between them. It was there she often sat and sang the Ojibwa love song--
'Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, Mong-e-do-gwain, in-de-nain-dum, Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, Wain-shung-ish-ween, neen-e-mo-shane, A-nee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode, A-nee-wau-wau-sau-bo-a-zode.'
I give but one verse, which may be translated as follows:
A loon, I thought was looming, A loon, I thought was looming: Why! it is he, my lover, Why! it is he, my lover; His paddle, in the waters gleaming, His paddle in the waters gleaming.
”From this bluff she often watched and listened for the return of the war parties, for amongst them she knew was Ge-niw-e-gwon; his head decorated with war-eagle plumes, which none but a brave could sport.
The west wind often wafted far in advance the shouts of victory and death, as they shouted and sang upon leaving Pe-quod-e-nong (Old Mackinaw), to make the traverse to the Spirit, or Fairiy Island.
”One season, when the war party returned, she could not distinguish his familiar and loving war shout. Her spirit, told her that he had gone to the Spirit-Land of the west. It was so: an enemy's arrow had pierced his breast, and after his body was placed leaning against a tree, his face fronting his enemies, he died; but ere he died he wished the mourning warriors to remember him to the sweet maid of his heart. Thus he died far away from home and the friends he loved.
”Me-she-ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua's heart hushed its beatings, and all the warm emotions of that heart, were chilled and dead. The moving, living spirit of her beloved Ge-niw-e-gwon, she witnessed continually beckoning her to follow him to the happy hunting grounds of spirits in the west--he appeared to her in human shape, but was invisible to others of his tribe.
”One morning her body was found mangled at the foot of the bluff. The soul had thrown aside its covering of earth, and had gone to join the spirit of her beloved Ge-niw-e-gwon, to travel together to the land of spirits.”
Another point of interest and curiosity is the Devil's Punch Bowl, situated south from the gateway, as you enter the farm of the late J.
Dousman, Esq.
This Island which rises like a gem on the brow of the lakes, is favored by the clearest and most healthful atmosphere, and washed by the purest and most transparent water in the world, imparting the most pleasurable sensations imaginable. When this enchanting region shall become fully known, Saratoga, Cape May, and Mount Was.h.i.+ngton will be forgotten by those who fly from the heat and dust of our inland cities, to breathe a pure air and drink health-giving waters.
A traveler in 1854, thus describes this interesting locality, ”Everything on the island is a curiosity, the roads or streets that wind around the harbor or among the grove-like forests of the island, are naturally pebbled and macadamized, the buildings are of every style, from an Indian lodge to an English house, the island is covered with charming natural scenery, from the beautiful to the grand, and one may spend weeks constantly finding new objects of interest, and new scenes of beauty. The steamers all call here on their way to and from Chicago, and hundreds of small sail vessels in the fis.h.i.+ng trade have here their head quarters. Drawn upon the pebbled beach, or gliding about the bay, are bark canoes, and the far-famed Mackinaw boats, without number. These last are the perfection of light sail boats, and I have often been astonished at seeing them far out in the lake, beating up against winds that were next to gales.”
We are indebted to Mr. Johnston for the following official list, giving the number of sail vessels and steamers that have pa.s.sed through the Straits of Mackinaw during the _day time_, as reported to the Revenue department, for six months, ending September 30th, 1859.
Barques. Brigs. Schr's. Steamers.
April, 14 9 101 47 May, 9 11 177 82 June, 15 13 221 194 Next 3 mon's 98 61 764 353 --- --- --- --- 136 94 1263 586