Part 44 (1/2)
HOW TO KEEP EGGS.--To preserve the interior of an egg in its natural state, it is necessary to seal the pores of the sh.e.l.l air-tight, as the air which finds its way into the egg through the pores of the sh.e.l.l causes gradual decomposition. Various methods are devised to exclude the air and thus preserve the egg. A good way is to dip perfectly fresh eggs into a thick solution of gum-arabic,--equal parts of gum and water,--let the eggs dry and dip them again, taking care that the sh.e.l.ls are entirely covered with the solution each time. When dry, wrap separately in paper and pack in a box of sawdust, bran, salt, or powdered charcoal, and cover tightly to keep out the air.
There is a difference of opinion as to which end should be placed down in packing; most authorities recommend the smaller end. However, an experienced poultryman offers the following reasons for packing with the larger end down: ”The air-chamber is in the larger end, and if that is placed down, the yolk will not break through and touch the sh.e.l.l and thereby spoil. Another thing: if the air-chamber is down, the egg is not so liable to shrink away.”
It would be well for housekeepers to make the test by packing eggs from the same lot each way and noting the result.
Melted wax or suet may be used to coat the sh.e.l.ls. Eggs are sometimes immersed and kept in a solution of lime water, a pound of lime to a gallon of cold water, or simply packed in bran or salt, without a previous coating of fat or gum. By any of these methods they will keep for several weeks. Eggs, however, readily absorb flavors from surrounding substances, and for that reason lime water or salt solution are somewhat objectionable. Nothing of a disagreeable odor should be placed near eggs.
Eggs for boiling may be preserved by placing in a deep pan, and pouring scalding water over them. Let them stand half a minute, drain off the water, and repeat the process two or three times. Wipe dry, and when cool, pack in bran.
Eggs should be kept in a cool, not cold, place and handled carefully, as rough treatment may cause the mingling of the yolk and white by rupturing the membrane which separates them; then the egg will spoil quickly.
The time required for the digestion of a perfectly cooked egg varies from three to four hours.
It is generally conceded that eggs lightly cooked are most readily digested. What is generally termed a hard-boiled egg is not easily acted upon by the digestive juices, and any other manner of cooking by which the alb.u.men becomes hardened and solid offers great resistance to digestion.
TO BEAT EGGS.--This may seem trivial, but no dish requiring eggs can be prepared in perfection, unless they are properly beaten, even if every other ingredient is the best. An egg-beater or an egg-whip is the most convenient utensil for the purpose; but if either of these is not to be had, a silver fork will do very well, and with this the beating should be done in sharp, quick strokes, dipping the fork in and out in rapid succession, while the egg should grow firmer and stiffer with every stroke. When carelessly beaten, the result will be a coa.r.s.e and frothy instead of a thick and cream-like ma.s.s. Use a bowl in beating eggs with an egg-beater, and a plate when a fork or egg-whip is employed.
If the white and yolk are used separately, break the sh.e.l.ls gently about the middle, opening slowly so as to let the white fall into the dish, while retaining the yolk in one half of the sh.e.l.l. If part of the white remains, turn the yolk from the one half to the other till the white has fallen. Beat the yolks until they change from their natural orange color to a much lighter yellow. The whites should be beaten until firm and dry enough not to fall from the bowl if turned upside down. The yolk should always be beaten first, since, if the white is left to stand after being beaten, a portion of the air, which its viscous nature allows it to catch up, escapes and no amount of beating will render it so firm a second time. Eggs which need to be washed before breaking should always be wiped perfectly dry, that no water may become mingled with the egg, as the water may dilute the alb.u.men sufficiently to prevent the white from becoming firm and stiff when beaten.
In cold weather, it is sometimes difficult to beat the whites as stiff as desirable. Alb.u.men is quite susceptible to temperature, and this difficulty may be overcome by setting the dish in which the eggs are beaten into warm water--not hot by any means--during the process of beating. In very hot weather it is often advantageous to leave the eggs in cold or ice water for a short time before beating. When a number of eggs are to be used, always break each by itself into a saucer, so that any chance stale egg may not spoil the whole. If the white or yolk of an egg--is left over, it may be kept for a day or two if put in a cool place, the yolk thoroughly beaten, the white unbeaten.
_RECIPES._
EGGS IN Sh.e.l.l.--The usual method of preparing eggs for serving in this way is to put them into boiling water, and boil or simmer until they are considered sufficiently cooked. Alb.u.men, of which the white of the egg is composed, is easiest digested when simply coagulated. The yolk, if cooked at all, is easiest digested when dry and mealy. Alb.u.men coagulates at 160, and when the boiling point is reached, it becomes hardened, tough, and leathery, and very difficult of digestion. If the egg were all alb.u.men, it might be easily and properly cooked by dropping into boiling water, allowing it to remain for a few seconds, and removing it, since the sh.e.l.l of the egg would prevent its becoming sufficiently heated in so short a time as to become hardened; but the time necessary to cook properly the white of the egg would be insufficient for the heat to penetrate to and cook the yolk; and if it is desirable to cook the yolk hard, the cooking process should be carried on at a temperature below the boiling point, subjecting the egg to a less degree of heat, but for a longer time. The most accurate method is to put the eggs into water of a temperature of 160, allowing them to remain for twenty minutes and not permitting the temperature of the water to go above 165. Cooked in this way, the white will be of a soft, jelly-like consistency throughout, while the yolks will be hard.
If it is desired to have the yolks dry and mealy, the temperature of the water must be less, and the time of cooking lengthened. We have secured the most perfect results with water at a temperature of 150, and seven hours' cooking. The temperature of the water can be easily tested by keeping in it an ordinary thermometer, and if one possesses a kerosene or gas stove, the heat can be easily regulated to maintain the required temperature.
Another method, although less sure, is to pour boiling water into a saucepan, draw it to one side of the range where it will keep hot, but not boil, put in the eggs, cover, and let stand for twenty minutes. If by either method it is desired to have the yolk soft-cooked, lessen the time to ten minutes or so, according to the hardness desired. Eggs are best served as soon as done, as the white becomes more solid by being kept in a hot sh.e.l.l.
It should be remarked that the time necessary to cook eggs in the sh.e.l.l will vary somewhat with the firmness of the sh.e.l.l, the size of the eggs, and the number cooked together.
EGGS IN SUNs.h.i.+NE.--Take an earthen-ware dish which will stand heat and also do to use in serving the eggs. Oil it and break therein as many eggs as desired; sprinkle lightly with salt, and put into the oven for two or more minutes till the eggs are set. Have ready some hot tomato sauce prepared as for Tomato Toast; pour the sauce over them, and serve.
EGGS POACHED IN TOMATOES.--Take a pint of stewed tomatoes, cooked until they are h.o.m.ogeneous or which have been rubbed through a colander; season with salt if desired, and heat. When just beginning to boil, slip in gently a half dozen eggs, the sh.e.l.ls of which have been so carefully broken that the yolks are intact. Keep the tomato just below the boiling point until the eggs are cooked. Lift the whites carefully with a fork as they cook, until they are firm, then p.r.i.c.k them and let the yellow mix with the tomato and the whites. The whole should be quite soft when done, but showing the red of the tomatoes and the white and yellow of the eggs quite distinctly. Serve on toast. If the flavor is agreeable, a little onion.
EGGS IN CREAM.--Put a half cupful or more of cream into a shallow earthen dish, and place the dish in a kettle or pan of boiling water.
When the cream is hot, break in as many eggs as the bottom of the dish will hold, and cook until well set, basting them occasionally over the top with the hot cream. Or, put a spoonful or two of cream into individual egg or vegetable dishes, break a fresh egg in each, and cook in the oven or in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water until the white of the egg is well set.
POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS.--Break each egg into a saucer by itself.
Have a shallow pan half filled with scalding, not boiling, water on the stove. If desired, a little salt and a tablespoonful of lemon juice may be added. Slip the eggs gently from the saucer upon the top of the water, holding the edge of the saucer under water to prevent the eggs from scattering; dip the water over them with a spoon and let them stand five minutes, or until the yolk is covered with a film, and the white is firm but not hardened; keep the water just below the boiling point. Take out the eggs one by one on a skimmer, and serve in egg-saucers, or on slices of nicely browned toast moistened with a little sweet cream, as preferred. If one is especially particular to keep the shape of the eggs, an egg poacher should be used, or a set of m.u.f.fin-rings may be laid in the bottom of the pan, and the eggs turned into the rings.
POACHED EGGS WITH CREAM SAUCE.--Poach eggs as in the foregoing, and pour over them a sauce made according to direction on page 351.
QUICKLY PREPARED EGGS.--A good way to cook quickly a large number of eggs, is to use a large-bottomed earthen dish, which will stand the heat and in which the eggs may be served. Oil it well; break the requisite number of eggs separately, and turn each carefully into the dish; sprinkle lightly with salt; set the dish in the oven or in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water for a few minutes until the eggs are set, then serve.
SCRAMBLED EGGS.--Beat four eggs lightly, add a little salt if desired, and half a cup of milk or cream. Have ready a hot, oiled saucepan; turn the eggs in and cook quickly, stirring constantly until firm, but soft.