Part 6 (1/2)

VARIATIONS For a spicy Moroccan version, add 1 crushed garlic clove, a pinch of cayenne, teaspoon paprika, teaspoon ground c.u.min, and 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves.

For a Lebanese version, mix in 1 to 2 tablespoons of pomegranate mola.s.ses (see page 7), plus 2 crushed garlic cloves and 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley.

EGGPLANT PUReE with with YOGURT YOGURT Yourtlu Patlican Salatasi Yogurt softens the flavors and adds to the creamy texture of this refres.h.i.+ng puree.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 or 3 eggplants (weighing about 1 pounds)juice of to 1 lemon2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 cup strained Greek-style yogurt2 to 3 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)saltTo garnish: 1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley or mint (optional) p.r.i.c.k the eggplants with a pointed knife to prevent them from bursting in the oven. Place them on a large piece of foil on a baking sheet and roast them in a hot oven pre-heated to 475F for about 45 to 55 minutes, or until they feel very soft when you press them and the skins are wrinkled. When cool enough to handle, peel and drop them into a strainer or colander with small holes. Press out as much of the water and juices as possible. Still in the colander, chop the flesh with a pointed knife, then mash it with a fork or wooden spoon, letting the juices escape through the holes.

Beat in the lemon juice, olive oil, yogurt, garlic, if using, and a little salt. Serve garnished, if you like, with parsley or mint.

TARAMA Gray mullet roe was originally used in Turkey for this famous dip (also known under the Greek name taramasalata taramasalata ) but smoked cod's roe has now generally replaced it. This is a world away from what you can buy ready-prepared and is really worth making. Serve it with Turkish or pita bread. ) but smoked cod's roe has now generally replaced it. This is a world away from what you can buy ready-prepared and is really worth making. Serve it with Turkish or pita bread.

SERVES 6 TO 8 1 slice of white bread, crusts removed7 ounces smoked cod's roejuice of 1 lemon3 tablespoons sunflower oil2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Soak the bread in water. Skin the smoked cod's roe and blend in the food processor. Add the bread, squeezed dry, the lemon juice, sunflower oil, and olive oil and blend to a creamy consistency that should still be a little rough, adding 1 or 2 tablespoons of water, if necessary.

CUc.u.mBER and and YOGURT SALAD YOGURT SALAD Cacik This salad is popular throughout the Middle East. Unless it is to be eaten as soon as it is made, it is best to salt the cuc.u.mber and let the juices drain before mixing with the yogurt; otherwise it gets very watery. If possible, use the small cuc.u.mbers sold in Middle Eastern and Asian stores-they have a finer flavor than the large ones. Cacik Cacik is served as part of a is served as part of a meze meze and also as a side dish-to be eaten with spoons from little individual side bowls-to accompany pies, meat dishes, and rice. It even makes a lovely cold summer soup. Use plain whole-milk yogurt. and also as a side dish-to be eaten with spoons from little individual side bowls-to accompany pies, meat dishes, and rice. It even makes a lovely cold summer soup. Use plain whole-milk yogurt.

SERVES 4 TO 6 4 small cuc.u.mbers or 1 large onesalt2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)2 sprigs of finely chopped mint or dill, or 2 teaspoons dried, crushed mint Peel and dice or grate the cuc.u.mbers, or cut them in half lengthwise, and then into half-moon slices. Unless the salad is to be served immediately, sprinkle with salt and leave for to 1 hour in a colander for the juices to drain.

Beat the yogurt in a serving bowl with the crushed garlic, if using, and the mint or dill, and fold in the cuc.u.mber. Add a little salt, taking into account the saltiness of the cuc.u.mber if you have salted it, although most of the salt will have gone with the drained juices.

EGGPLANT SLICES with with WALNUTS WALNUTS and and GARLIC GARLIC Cevizli Patlican This strongly flavored version of a very common meze meze originates in Georgia, where walnut trees abound. There is plenty of garlic, but it is not overpowering because it is fried. The eggplant slices can be deep-fried, but I prefer them roasted in the oven. They should be served cold, and they can be made in advance. originates in Georgia, where walnut trees abound. There is plenty of garlic, but it is not overpowering because it is fried. The eggplant slices can be deep-fried, but I prefer them roasted in the oven. They should be served cold, and they can be made in advance.

SERVES 6 2 pounds eggplants.e.xtra virgin olive oil2 to 3 tablespoons wine vinegarsalt6 to 7 garlic cloves, crushed1/3 cup walnutshandful of chopped flat-leaf parsley Wash the eggplants and cut them lengthwise into slices a little more than a quarter of an inch thick. Place them on a well-oiled piece of foil on an oven tray and brush them with olive oil on both sides. Cook in an oven preheated to 475F for about 20 minutes, or until lightly browned and soft, turning them over once.

Arrange them on flat serving plates, then brush with vinegar and sprinkle lightly with salt.

Soften the garlic in 1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium heat until the aroma rises, but do not let it color. Finely chop the walnuts in a food processor and mix with the chopped parsley in a bowl. Add the garlic with another tablespoon of olive oil and a sprinkling of salt, mix well, and spread this paste on the eggplant slices.

PEPPERY BULGUR SALAD Kisir Kisir is a salad from Gaziantep. You need the fine-ground (not medium) bulgur, which you can find in Middle Eastern stores. The chili pepper gives it a thrilling zing but you can leave it out. Serve the salad with little lettuce leaves that can be used as scoops. is a salad from Gaziantep. You need the fine-ground (not medium) bulgur, which you can find in Middle Eastern stores. The chili pepper gives it a thrilling zing but you can leave it out. Serve the salad with little lettuce leaves that can be used as scoops.

SERVES 6 1 cup fine bulgur cup boiling water1 tablespoon tomato pastejuice of 1 lemons5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil to 1 fresh red or green chili pepper, finely choppedsalt5 to 7 scallions3 tomatoes (about 11 ounces), diced cup chopped flat-leaf parsley2 tablespoons chopped mint leavesTo serve: 2 Little Gem (baby romaine) lettuces Put the bulgur into a bowl, pour the boiling water over it, stir, and leave for 15 to 20 minutes, until the grain is tender. Don't be tempted to add more water since the juice from the lemons and tomatoes will soften it further.

Add the tomato paste, lemon juice, olive oil, chili pepper, and some salt and mix thoroughly. Trim the green tops off the scallions, then slice them finely. Add them and the diced tomatoes to the bulgur mixture, together with the parsley and mint and mix well.

Serve with the small lettuce leaves stuck around the edges of the salad. Another way is to roll the bulgur mixture into oval b.a.l.l.s the size of a small egg and to place each one in the hollow of a lettuce leaf.

VARIATION Add 1 to 2 tablespoons of pomegranate mola.s.ses (see page 7) to the dressing. This gives the grain a sweet-and-sour flavor.

LEEKS with with EGG EGG and and LEMON SAUCE LEMON SAUCE Terbiyeli Pirasa An egg and lemon sauce is one of Turkey's culinary signature tunes. A touch of sugar gives it a slight sweet-and-sour taste. I like making this dish, which can be served hot or cold, with baby leeks, but larger ones can be used instead.

SERVES 4 TO 6 1 pounds baby leekssalt2 egg yolksjuice of 1 lemons1 teaspoon sugar Wash the leeks in running water, making sure you remove any dirt trapped between the leaves. Trim the root ends and the tough tops of the green leaves.

Boil the leeks in salted water until tender, then drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Pour this cooking water back into the pan and bring to the boil.

In a small bowl, beat the egg yolks and lemon juice with the sugar. Pour in a little of the hot cooking water and beat well, then pour the egg and lemon mixture into the pan, beating vigorously, for seconds only until the sauce thickens slightly. Be careful not to let it boil or it will curdle. Add a little salt, if necessary, to taste.

Serve the leeks hot or cold with the sauce poured over.

CELERIAC with with EGG EGG and and LEMON SAUCE LEMON SAUCE Terbiyeli Kereviz Celeriac is a popular winter vegetable in Turkey. The creamy, gently sweet-and-sour sauce enhances its delicate flavor. It is as good cold as it is hot.

SERVES 4 1 celeriac (weighing about 2 pounds)juice of 1 lemonsalt1 teaspoon sugar2 egg yolks Cut away the k.n.o.bbly skin of the celeriac and cut the flesh into -inch cubes. (It is a very hard root and you will need to use a big strong knife and quite a bit of force.) Put the celeriac cubes in a pan and barely cover with water. Add the juice of lemon, some salt, and the sugar, and simmer, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until just tender.

Just before serving, beat the egg yolks with the remaining lemon juice in a little bowl. Beat in 2 to 3 tablespoons of the cooking water, then pour the egg and lemon mixture into the pan, stirring vigorously. Heat through, stirring constantly, but do not let it boil or the egg will curdle.

Serve hot or cold with the sauce poured on top.

ROASTED EGGPLANTS and and BELL PEPPERS BELL PEPPERS with with YOGURT YOGURT and and PINE NUTS PINE NUTS This is one of my favorites. It makes a good first course as well as a vegetarian main dish. The vegetables can be served hot or cold and the yogurt should be at room temperature. I mix the two kinds of yogurt-plain whole-milk and strained Greek-style yogurt-to get a thick creamy texture that still pours well.

SERVES 6 4 small eggplants (about 2 pounds)3 large red bell peppers1 tablespoon lemon juice4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalt and black pepper cup plain whole-milk yogurt cup strained Greek-style yogurt2 garlic cloves, crushed cup pine nuts p.r.i.c.k the eggplants with a pointed knife to prevent them exploding in the oven. Place them and the peppers on a large piece of foil on a baking sheet and roast in an oven pre-heated to 425F for about 45 to 60 minutes, until the eggplants feel soft when you press them. Turn the peppers one half turn after 25 minutes and take them out before the eggplants when they are soft and their skins are blackened in places.

As the peppers come out of the oven, drop them in a strong plastic bag and twist to seal it closed. When cool enough to handle, peel them, remove and discard the stems and seeds, and cut them in half or in 4 lengthwise.

When they are cool enough to handle, peel the eggplants and drop into a colander. Press the flesh gently to let the juices run out. Cut each into 4 pieces and turn them in a little lemon juice to prevent them from discoloring.

Put the eggplants and peppers on one side of a shallow serving plate. Dress with 3 tablespoons olive oil, salt, and pepper and mix gently. Mix the two types of yogurt together, beat in the garlic and some salt, and pour onto the other side of the plate.

Just before serving, fry the pine nuts in the remaining oil, stirring, until very lightly browned, and sprinkle over the yogurt. Pa.s.s the dish round for people to help themselves.

ROASTED VEGETABLES with with YOGURT YOGURT and and FRESH TOMATO SAUCE FRESH TOMATO SAUCE A very traditional meze meze is fried eggplants served with yogurt and tomato sauce. I like to do the same with a mix of roasted vegetables, and I serve them either hot or cold. It is the kind of thing you can do easily in large quant.i.ties for a party. It can be done a day in advance, cooking the vegetables in batches, if necessary, and reheating them, if you wish, on the day. The yogurt should be at room temperature. The tomato sauce has a sweet-and-sour flavor and is served cold. is fried eggplants served with yogurt and tomato sauce. I like to do the same with a mix of roasted vegetables, and I serve them either hot or cold. It is the kind of thing you can do easily in large quant.i.ties for a party. It can be done a day in advance, cooking the vegetables in batches, if necessary, and reheating them, if you wish, on the day. The yogurt should be at room temperature. The tomato sauce has a sweet-and-sour flavor and is served cold.

SERVES 6 2 medium eggplants3 fleshy red or green bell peppers3 fat zucchini4 medium red or white onions.e.xtra virgin olive oilsalt2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt2 teaspoons dried mint1 to 2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)FOR THE TOMATO SAUCE3 garlic cloves, chopped1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 pounds tomatoes, peeled and chopped1 tablespoon sugarsaltgood pinch of ground chili pepper or flakes2 tablespoons wine vinegar Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and then into -inch-thick slices. Cut the peppers in half through the stem end, remove the seeds, and cut them in half again, lengthwise. Cut the zucchini into -inch slices crosswise. Cut the onions into quarters.

Each type of vegetable should be placed on separate pieces of foil on baking trays since they take different times to cook. Sprinkle the vegetable pieces generously with olive oil and with a little salt and turn them around with your hand so that they are lightly oiled all over.

Roast them in your hottest preheated oven for about 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender and lightly browned, taking each type of vegetable out as they are done.

Serve the roasted vegetables hot or cold. They should be placed on a large serving dish and pa.s.sed around with a bowl of yogurt into which you have beaten a little salt, dried mint, and, if you like, crushed garlic, and a bowl of the following tomato sauce.

Heat the chopped garlic in the oil for a few seconds only, stirring, until the aroma rises. Add the tomatoes, sugar, salt, and chili pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, until reduced and thick. Add the vinegar toward the end.

ZUCCHINI FRITTERS Kabak Mucveri Fried onions, feta cheese, and herbs lift what is otherwise a bland vegetable. These little fritters can be served hot or cold. They can be made in advance and reheated.

SERVES 4 1 large onion, coa.r.s.ely chopped3 tablespoons vegetable or sunflower oil, plus more for frying1 pound zucchini, finely chopped3 eggs3 tablespoons all-purpose flourblack pepper2 to 3 sprigs of mint, chopped2 to 3 sprigs of dill, chopped7 ounces feta cheese, mashed with a fork Fry the onion in 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat until it is soft and lightly colored. Add the zucchini and saute, stirring, until they, too, are soft.

In a bowl, beat the eggs with the flour until well blended. Add pepper (there is no need of salt because the feta cheese is very salty) and the chopped herbs, and mix well. Fold the mashed feta into the eggs, together with the cooked onions and zucchini.

Film the bottom of a preferably nonstick frying pan with oil and pour in the mixture by the half ladle (or 2 tablespoons) to make a few fritters at a time. Turn each over once, and cook until both sides are browned a little. Drain on paper towels.

BEETS with with YOGURT YOGURT Pancar Salatasi Beets may be boiled or roasted, but I think roasting, which takes much longer, gives them a deliciously intense flavor. It is best to buy small ones because they take less time to cook. Or, of course, you can buy them already cooked.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 pounds beets2 garlic cloves, crushed (optional)2 cups strained Greek-style yogurt2 tablespoons lemon juice6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilsalthandful of chopped mint or flat-leaf parsley Cut the stems and leaves about of an inch above the beets. To boil them, cook them in plenty of boiling salted water until tender-small ones will take about 30 minutes, larger ones about 1 hours. To roast them, put them on a sheet of foil on a baking sheet, cover them with foil, and roast in the oven at 400F for 2 to 3 hours, depending on their size, until one feels tender when you cut right through with a pointed knife. You could cut them in half (lay them cut side down) and reduce the cooking time considerably.