Part 4 (1/2)

Heat the olive oil in a wide pan, and put in the onions. Half-cover with about 1 cup water and add a little salt and pepper. Braise for about 35 minutes, covering the pan at first, then removing the lid to reduce the liquid. Cook, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid has disappeared and the onions are soft and brown in the sizzling oil. They will be ready when the point of a sharp knife goes in easily. Add the honey and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes, until the onions are caramelized and soft enough to, as they say in Morocco, ”crush with the tongue.”

Serve very hot. Accompany the lamb with the onions, and pa.s.s around salt and pepper for the meat, which is needed to mitigate the sweetness of the onions.

TAGINE of KNUCKLE KNUCKLE of of VEAL VEAL with with ARTICHOKES ARTICHOKES and and PEAS PEAS Tagine Bil Korni Wal Jelban Ask your butcher to saw the knuckle of veal into rounds, retaining the marrow in the center of the bone (as for Italian os...o...b..co os...o...b..co ). You can buy very good frozen artichokes, which come from Egypt, from Middle Eastern stores. They come in packages weighing ). You can buy very good frozen artichokes, which come from Egypt, from Middle Eastern stores. They come in packages weighing 14 14 ounces and containing about ounces and containing about 9 9 small artichoke bottoms. If you want to use fresh artichoke hearts or bottoms, see page small artichoke bottoms. If you want to use fresh artichoke hearts or bottoms, see page 8. 8.Use young fresh peas or frozen pet.i.ts pois. pet.i.ts pois.

SERVES 4 stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter or 3 tablespoons sunflower oil1 onion, chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed or chopped finely teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon saffron threads4 thick rounds cut from the knuckle of vealsalt and black pepperone 14-ounce package frozen artichoke bottoms, defrostedjuice of lemonpeel of to 1 preserved lemon (optional) (see page 7)14 ounces fresh young peas (sh.e.l.led weight), or frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois, defrosted2 tablespoons chopped coriander8 green olives (optional) Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in a wide pan or ca.s.serole. Put in the onion, garlic, ginger, saffron, and meat. Cook over a low heat for about 5 minutes, turning over the meat.

Cover with water, season with salt and pepper, and simmer, with the lid on, for 1 to 2 hours, or until the meat is so tender it almost comes away from the bone. If necessary, add water to keep the meat covered, and stir occasionally to make sure it does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Remove the lid toward the end to reduce the sauce.

Add the artichoke bottoms, cut in half or quartered, lemon juice, and preserved lemon peel cut into strips, if using, and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the peas and coriander, and, if you like, the olives. Cook for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. The sauce should be reduced and thick.

TAGINE of KNUCKLE KNUCKLE of of VEAL VEAL with with FENNEL FENNEL Tagine Bil Bisbas Bulb fennel has an attractive intense aniseed flavor. Follow the above recipe for Tagine Tagine of Knuckle of Veal (page 103) but, instead of artichokes and peas, use 4 medium-size fennel bulbs. Trim the base, cut away the hard ends of the round stalks, and remove the outer layer if it is stringy or bruised. Cut in half or quarters, lengthwise. Add to the meat and cook for 30 minutes, or until very soft. of Knuckle of Veal (page 103) but, instead of artichokes and peas, use 4 medium-size fennel bulbs. Trim the base, cut away the hard ends of the round stalks, and remove the outer layer if it is stringy or bruised. Cut in half or quarters, lengthwise. Add to the meat and cook for 30 minutes, or until very soft.

TAGINE of KNUCKLE KNUCKLE of of VEAL VEAL with with EGGPLANTS EGGPLANTS Tagine Bil Brania For this tagine tagine, follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Knuckle of Veal with Artichokes and Peas (page 103), but instead of adding the artichokes and peas at the end, serve the meat with a puree of mashed eggplants poured over it. of Knuckle of Veal with Artichokes and Peas (page 103), but instead of adding the artichokes and peas at the end, serve the meat with a puree of mashed eggplants poured over it.

Roast 2 pounds of eggplants in the hottest oven. Peel, chop, and mash them as described on page 8. Heat 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil in a skillet with 4 crushed cloves of garlic. When the aroma rises, add the eggplant puree with a squeeze of lemon and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Pour over the meat and heat through just before serving.

You can also add a 14-ounce can of chickpeas, drained of their water, to the meat toward the end of the cooking.

LAMB TAGINE with TAGINE with POTATOES POTATOES and and PEAS PEAS Tagine Bil Batata Wal Jelban The best lamb to use for this tagine tagine is either boned shoulder or neck fillet. Trim away some of the excess fat before cooking. Some supermarkets sell fresh sh.e.l.led peas, which are young and sweet, but frozen is either boned shoulder or neck fillet. Trim away some of the excess fat before cooking. Some supermarkets sell fresh sh.e.l.led peas, which are young and sweet, but frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois will also do very well. If the olives are very salty, soak them in water for up to an hour. will also do very well. If the olives are very salty, soak them in water for up to an hour.

SERVES 6 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 onion, chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed1 teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon saffron threads3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb, cut into 6 to 8 piecessalt and black pepper2 pounds new potatoes, peeled1 pound fresh young peas (sh.e.l.led weight) or frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois, defrostedpeel of 1 to 1 preserved lemon (optional) (see page 7)16 or more green olives2 tablespoons chopped coriander2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a wide pan or ca.s.serole. Put in the onion, garlic, ginger, saffron, and meat. Cook on low heat for about 5 minutes, turning over the meat. Cover with water, season with salt and pepper and cook, covered, over low heat, for 1 to 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, turning the pieces over once in a while.

Add the potatoes, cutting any large ones in half. Top up the water, if necessary, and cook 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Then add the peas, preserved lemon peel cut into thin strips, if using, olives, coriander, and parsley, and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes longer, or until the peas are tender and the sauce reduced and thick.

VARIATION Young fava beans can be used instead of peas, but they will need to be cooked for at least 10 minutes.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and PEARS PEARS Tagine Bil Bouawid This is a recipe that is similar to the chicken tagine tagine on page on page 93 93, but the result is quite different. The sweetness of the pears goes surprisingly well with the lamb. Choose firm pears; if the fruit is too soft, they tend to collapse during the cooking. Comice and Bosc are good varieties. Use a boned shoulder of lamb or neck fillets, and trim only some-not all-of the fat. but the result is quite different. The sweetness of the pears goes surprisingly well with the lamb. Choose firm pears; if the fruit is too soft, they tend to collapse during the cooking. Comice and Bosc are good varieties. Use a boned shoulder of lamb or neck fillets, and trim only some-not all-of the fat.

SERVES 6 TO 8 3 pounds boned shoulder of lamb5 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil1 onion, choppedsalt and plenty of black pepper teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon saffron threads1 pound (about 2 cups) shallots or baby onions3 large pears stick (2 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter Cut the meat into 6 or 8 pieces, and put it into a wide pan with 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat; turn to brown the pieces all over. Add the chopped onion and barely cover with water. Stir in salt and pepper, ginger, cinnamon, and saffron, and simmer, covered, over a low heat for 1 hours, turning the pieces over a few times.

To peel the onions or shallots, blanch them in boiling water for 5 minutes and, when cool enough to handle, peel off the skins and trim the roots. Saute them in a skillet in 2 tablespoons oil over a low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, shaking the pan, until the onions have slightly colored. Then add them to the meat and cook for a further 30 minutes, until the meat is very tender and the baby onions are so soft that, as they say in Morocco, ”you can crush them with your tongue.” Toward the end of the cooking time, cook uncovered to reduce the sauce. There should be only a small amount of liquid remaining.

Wash the pears. Quarter and core them but do not peel them. Saute them in a large skillet in a mixture of b.u.t.ter and the remaining tablespoon of oil over medium heat until their cut sides are slightly brown and caramelized. If they have not softened right through (that depends on their size and degree of ripeness), put them into the pan over the meat, skin side up, and continue to cook, covered, until they are very tender. It could be 15 minutes, but you must watch them as they can quickly fall apart.

Serve the meat with the pears, arranged skin side up, on top.

VARIATIONS Stir in 1 to 1 tablespoons of clear honey when you put in the pears, and adjust the seasoning so that there is enough salt and plenty of pepper to mitigate the sweetness.

Add cup blanched almonds to the meat at the start. They will soften during the cooking.

Instead of pears, sharp green apples, such as Granny Smiths, may be used.

Use veal instead of lamb.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and QUINCES QUINCES Tagine Bil Sfargal Follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) but instead of the pears, use 3 quinces, weighing about 2 pounds. Quinces are now available for several months, starting in the fall, as they are imported from various countries, which have different seasons. of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) but instead of the pears, use 3 quinces, weighing about 2 pounds. Quinces are now available for several months, starting in the fall, as they are imported from various countries, which have different seasons.

Wash and scrub the quinces. Boil them whole for about 1 hour, or until they feel soft. The time varies greatly depending on their size and degree of ripeness, so watch them and do not let them fall apart. Drain them and, when cool enough to handle, cut them into quarters, then cut away the cores but do not peel them.

In a large skillet, saute the quarters in a little sunflower oil until the cut sides are brown. This gives them a delicious caramelized flavor. Alternatively, for a honeyed version, saute the quinces in a mixture of stick (2 tablespoons) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted with 1 tablespoon sunflower oil and 1 tablespoons clear honey. You may also add cup walnut halves, which gives a wonderful contrast of texture.

Put the quinces-caramelized or honeyed-in the pan with the meat, skin side down, and cook until they are soft but, again, watch them so that they do not fall apart. If there is not enough room, lift out the meat and put in the fruits, returning the meat to heat through before serving. Serve hot, with the quinces, skin side up, on top of the meat.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with APRICOTS APRICOTS Tagine Bil Mashmash The combination of lamb and apricots has become popular in America, and with good reason-they go beautifully together. Follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) until the meat is very tender and the sauce reduced. Instead of the onions and pears, pit 2 pounds fresh apricots, add them to the meat, and cook for minutes, only until they soften. of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) until the meat is very tender and the sauce reduced. Instead of the onions and pears, pit 2 pounds fresh apricots, add them to the meat, and cook for minutes, only until they soften.

Another particularly splendid version (my favorite-which you must try) is with dried apricots. Soak 1 pound dried apricots in water for an hour or longer, drain, and cook for about 1 hour in water to cover (you will need to keep adding water) until they are very soft. Then let the liquid reduce to practically nothing. Add 2 tablespoons clear honey and stick (2 tablespoons) unsalted b.u.t.ter, and cook, stirring, until the apricots begin to turn brown and caramelize. Pour them on top of the meat when serving. Sprinkle the dish, if you like, with cup blanched almonds fried in 1 tablespoon sunflower oil until lightly browned.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with DATES DATES and and ALMONDS ALMONDS Tagine Bil Tmar Wal Loz In an Arab culture born in the desert, dates have something of a sacred character. Considered the ”bread of the desert,” they symbolize hospitality and are much loved and prestigious. You would find this dish at wedding parties. Some people find it too sweet, so you might prefer it, as I do, without the optional honey. The dates give it a slightly sticky texture. Use the semi-dried moist varieties from California or the Deglet Nour dates from Tunisia.

SERVES 6 TO 8 3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter or cup sunflower oil2 onions, finely chopped teaspoon saffron threads teaspoon ground gingersalt and plenty of black pepper1 cinnamon stick1 to 2 tablespoons clear honey (optional)1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 cups dates, pittedTo garnish: cup blanched almonds; 3 tablespoons sesame seeds (optional) Trim any excess fat from the lamb and cut into 6 or 8 pieces. Heat the b.u.t.ter or 3 tablespoons oil in a large pan, put in the meat, and brown it lightly all over. Take out the meat, put in the onions and cook, stirring, until they begin to color. Stir in the saffron and ginger and return the meat to the pan. Add salt and pepper and the cinnamon stick. Cover with water and simmer, covered, for 1 to 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender, turning the pieces occasionally.

Take out two pieces of meat in order to make room in the pan, stir in the honey, if using, and the ground cinnamon and more pepper (it needs plenty to counterbalance the sweetness). Move the meat around so the honey and cinnamon is spread around and then return the two pieces of meat. Cook until the sauce is reduced, turning the meat over as you do. Add the dates and cook 5 to 10 minutes more.

Fry the almonds in the remaining tablespoon of oil until lightly golden. Leave whole or coa.r.s.ely chop, and sprinkle over the meat when serving, adding lightly toasted sesame seeds, if you like.

VARIATION Stuff the pitted dates with walnut halves. In this case, omit the almonds and sesame seeds.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with PRUNES PRUNES and and ALMONDS ALMONDS Tagine Bil Barkok Wal Loz This is the best-known fruit tagine tagine outside Morocco. Restaurants in Paris accompany it with couscous outside Morocco. Restaurants in Paris accompany it with couscous seffa seffa made with fine-ground couscous (see page made with fine-ground couscous (see page 28 28 ) with plenty of b.u.t.ter, one bowl of boiled chickpeas, and another of stewed raisins. The best prunes to use are the moist Californian ones, which are already pitted. ) with plenty of b.u.t.ter, one bowl of boiled chickpeas, and another of stewed raisins. The best prunes to use are the moist Californian ones, which are already pitted.

SERVES 6 TO 8 3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb4 tablespoons sunflower oil1 large onion, chopped finely or grated2 garlic cloves, chopped1 teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon saffron threadssalt and plenty of black pepper2 teaspoons ground cinnamon pound (about 2 cups) prunes (see above)To garnish: cup blanched almonds; 3 tablespoons sesame seeds (optional) Trim any excess fat from the lamb and cut it into 6 or 8 pieces. Put the meat in a pan with 3 tablespoons of the oil, onion, garlic, ginger, saffron, salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Cover with water and simmer gently, with the lid on, for 1 to 2 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep it covered.

Add the prunes and the remaining cinnamon. Stir well, adjust the seasoning, and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes more, until the sauce is reduced and thickened.

Fry the almonds in the remaining tablespoon of oil until they are lightly colored, and sprinkle these over the meat before serving. If you wish, you can also garnish with lightly toasted sesame seeds.

VARIATIONS Put the almonds in with the meat from the start of the cooking. They will become soft.

Add 1 to 2 tablespoons clear honey at the same time as the prunes.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with CHESTNUTS CHESTNUTS Tagine Bil Kastal Follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Lamb with Prunes and Almonds (page 111) until the meat is very tender and the liquid reduced to a thick sauce. But instead of prunes, add 14 ounces frozen and defrosted, or vacuum-packed, peeled chestnuts and cook for 10 minutes, or until the chestnuts are soft and heated through. You could add 1 tablespoon clear honey with the chestnuts, in which case, adjust the seasoning; you will need quite a bit of pepper to mitigate the sweetness. The sauce should be reduced and creamy. In this version, leave out the almonds and sesame seeds. of Lamb with Prunes and Almonds (page 111) until the meat is very tender and the liquid reduced to a thick sauce. But instead of prunes, add 14 ounces frozen and defrosted, or vacuum-packed, peeled chestnuts and cook for 10 minutes, or until the chestnuts are soft and heated through. You could add 1 tablespoon clear honey with the chestnuts, in which case, adjust the seasoning; you will need quite a bit of pepper to mitigate the sweetness. The sauce should be reduced and creamy. In this version, leave out the almonds and sesame seeds.

PREPARING COUSCOUS - BASIC RECIPE This is an easy foolproof method of preparing the precooked couscous available in America (see page 28). I make it straight in the round clay dish in which it will be served with its broth and other accompaniments. In Morocco, 500 grams (1.2 pounds) serves 4 people but by standards in America, it is enough for 6. If you are cooking for 8 or 10 people, it is worth making 2.4 pounds, if only because a mountain of couscous looks good.

You need the same volume of salted water as couscous.

Put 2 cups couscous in an oven dish. Gradually add 2 cups warm salted water, made with to 1 teaspoon salt, stirring vigorously so that it is absorbed evenly. Leave to swell for about 10 minutes, then mix in 2 tablespoons oil and rub the couscous between your hands above the bowl to air it and break up any lumps. That is the important part.