Part 2 (1/2)
VARIATION Add the peel of a preserved lemon (see page 7) and about 12 green olives at the same time as the herbs.
ARTICHOKE and and FAVA BEAN SALAD FAVA BEAN SALAD with with PRESERVED LEMON PRESERVED LEMON Slada L'Korni Wal Ful I use the frozen artichoke bottoms obtainable from Middle Eastern and Asian grocers, who also sometimes sell frozen skinned fava beans. Some supermarkets sell freshly sh.e.l.led fava beans. You do not need to remove the skins if they are young. If you wish to use fresh artichokes, see page 8. 8.
SERVES 4 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 teaspoon ground c.u.min teaspoon ground ginger (optional)3 to 4 garlic cloves, crushed7 ounces artichoke bottoms, defrosted, quartered or halved7 ounces fresh fava beans (sh.e.l.led weight)saltpeel of preserved lemon (see page 7)To garnish: 8 green olives (optional) In a pan, stir the oil with the c.u.min, ginger, if using, and garlic, then put in the artichoke bottoms and the fava beans. Cook over low heat for a moment, stirring, until the aroma of the garlic rises.
Almost cover with about 1 cup water and add salt. Simmer, covered, for the first 5 minutes, then uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes, until the beans are very tender and the sauce is reduced. Add the preserved lemon, cut into thin slices, toward the end.
Serve warm, garnished, if you like, with a few olives and a little more thinly sliced preserved lemon peel.
SPINACH SALAD with with PRESERVED LEMON PRESERVED LEMON and and OLIVES OLIVES Salkh Bil Hamid Wal Zaytoun Preserved lemons bring one of the defining flavors to Moroccan salads and are often used together with olives. Cook the spinach in two batches if your saucepan is not large enough for all the bulky spinach leaves. Keep back 4 4 or or 5 5 whole olives as a garnish. whole olives as a garnish.
SERVES 6 TO 8 2 pounds fresh spinach3 garlic cloves, chopped3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or argan oil (see page 31)peel of preserved lemon, chopped (see page 7) cup violet olives, pitted and choppedsalt and black pepper Wash the spinach and remove the stems only if they are thick and hard. Put the leaves in a large pan, cover with a lid, and set over low heat until the leaves crumple into a soft ma.s.s. They will steam in the water that clings to them in 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well.
Heat the garlic in 1 tablespoon of oil in a large pan until the aroma rises. Add the chopped preserved lemon peel, the chopped olives, and the cooked spinach. Season with salt and pepper, mix well, and cook over high heat for a moment or two.
Stir in the remaining oil, garnish with the reserved olives, and serve cold.
TOMATOES STUFFED with with ROAST PEPPERS, TUNA, CAPERS, ROAST PEPPERS, TUNA, CAPERS, and and OLIVES OLIVES Tamatem Ma'Amrine The tomatoes can be served hot or cold. I prefer them cold. For vegetarians, they make an elegant main dish accompanied by a potato or carrot salad. Use large or beefsteak tomatoes.
SERVES 6 4 red bell pepperssalt3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oilone 7-ounce can of tuna, flaked2 tablespoons capers4 tablespoons chopped black olivespeel of preserved lemon, chopped (optional) (see page 7)2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley6 large tomatoes Place the peppers on a sheet of foil on an oven tray under a preheated broiler, 2 to 3 inches from the broiler. Turn them until their skins are black and blistered all over. Alternatively-and more easily-roast them in the hottest oven for about 30 minutes, or until they are soft and their skins blistered and blackened, turning them once after 15 minutes.
To loosen the skins further, put them in a strong plastic bag, twist it shut, and leave for 10 to 15 minutes. Another old way that has the same effect is to put them in a pan with a tight-fitting lid for the same length of time. When the peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them and remove and discard the stems and seeds. Now cut the peppers into strips about inch wide. Mix with the rest of the ingredients except the tomatoes.
Cut a small circle around the stalk of each tomato and cut out a cap. Remove the center and seeds with a pointed teaspoon. Fill the cavities with the roast pepper mixture and replace the caps. Arrange in a shallow baking dish and bake in a preheated oven at 350F for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the tomatoes are a little soft. Keep a watch, however, that they do not fall apart.
CHICKPEAS with with TURMERIC TURMERIC Hummas In Morocco, this is considered ”poor food.” It is eaten hot with bread to soak up the juices. You could make it with canned chickpeas, in which case it would take only a few minutes to cook, but for a large quant.i.ty like this, it is worth using dried chickpeas, as their taste and texture is better and they will have time to absorb the flavors. You need to soak them in water for a few hours or overnight.
SERVES 6 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 large onion, chopped4 garlic cloves, crushed teaspoon ground turmeric1 cups dried chickpeas, soaked in plenty of water overnightsalt and black pepper3 tablespoons chopped cilantro3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a large pan and fry the onion until lightly colored. Add the garlic and stir for a moment or two. Stir in the turmeric, then add the drained chickpeas.
Cover with about 2 cups water and simmer for 1 hours, or until the chick-peas are very tender, adding salt and pepper when they have softened, and extra water if it becomes too dry. The liquid should be reduced to a thick sauce at the end of the cooking.
Stir in the chopped cilantro and parsley and cook for 5 minutes more.
VARIATIONS A grander version served as a first course is made with teaspoon saffron threads or powder instead of the turmeric.
Add the juice of 1 lemon at the end.
Dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight, or the canned variety, drained, can be used in the same way as chickpeas.
PEAS and and FAVA BEANS FAVA BEANS with with MINT MINT and and GARLIC GARLIC Jekban Wal Ful Bil Na'na I am lucky enough to find freshly sh.e.l.led fava beans and peas at my local supermarket. If you grow your own, or have a source of really young vegetables, use them, but it is better to use frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois and fava beans rather than old fresh ones. and fava beans rather than old fresh ones.
SERVES 4 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil7 ounces young fava beans (sh.e.l.led weight)salt7 ounces young peas (sh.e.l.led weight)1 teaspoon sugarblack pepperhandful of chopped mintjuice of lemon Heat the garlic in 1 tablespoon oil for a few seconds only, stirring. Before it begins to color, add the fava beans and a little salt, and barely cover with water. Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes, until the beans are tender.
Add the peas, sugar, pepper, a little more salt, the mint, and lemon juice and simmer, covered, until the peas are tender. If they are very young, this takes only a minute. (If you are using older peas, put them in at the same time as the beans.) They do not need to be covered with water as they cook in the steam, but do not let the vegetables dry out. Add a little water, if necessary, and reduce excess liquid by cooking uncovered.
Stir in the remaining olive oil and serve hot or cold.
FISH CAKES Kefta Bil Hout These Moroccan fish cakes can be served as a first course with green salad leaves. They also make good finger food for a party. Use cod, haddock, or another firm white fish.
MAKES 15 FISH CAKES 1 pound firm, white fish fillets, skinned1 teaspoons ground c.u.mingood pinch of chili pepper to 1 teaspoon salt3 garlic cloves, crushed1 egg, beaten lightlypeel of to 1 preserved lemon, finely chopped (see page 7) (optional)handful of chopped flat-leafed parsley or cilantro, or a mix of bothabout 5 tablespoons all-purpose flourolive oil for deep-fryingTo garnish: 1 lemon, cut into wedges
Cut the fish fillets into pieces and put them in the food processor with the rest of the ingredients except the flour and oil. Process for about 5 seconds only, until it is finely chopped and the ingredients are well mixed. It is important not to let it turn into a paste.
Sprinkle the flour onto a plate. Wet your hands, take a lump of the fish mixture the size of a small egg, roll it into a ball, and flatten it. Do the same with the rest of the mixture, then turn the fish cakes in the flour to cover them all over.
Shallow-fry the cakes in hot oil until browned, turning them over once. Lift them out and drain on paper towels. Serve hot or cold, accompanied by lemon wedges.
VARIATION You can use the same fish mixture as above to make b.a.l.l.s rather than cakes. These are very good poached in a tomato sauce. For the sauce, fry 4 to 5 finely chopped garlic cloves in 2 tablespoons olive oil for a moment or two, add 2 pounds peeled and chopped tomatoes, 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar, salt, a pinch of chili pepper, and cook for 10 minutes. Roll the fish mixture into b.a.l.l.s, drop them into the sauce, and simmer for 5 minutes.
LITTLE PIES with with FRESH GOAT CHEESE FRESH GOAT CHEESE and and OLIVES OLIVES Briwat Bil Jban Use a soft, fresh-tasting, mild goat cheese for these little pies. Use the fillo in sheets that measure Use the fillo in sheets that measure 12 12 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 7 7 inches, which you can find fresh in some supermarkets, or use the large sheets measuring inches, which you can find fresh in some supermarkets, or use the large sheets measuring 19 19 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches and cut them in half. See the note on fillo on page inches and cut them in half. See the note on fillo on page 9. 9.You can freeze these pies and you can put them straight from the freezer into the oven without thawing, but they will need a little more cooking time. They make elegant and tasty party fare.
MAKES 20 TRIANGLES 10 ounces fresh goat cheese1 egg, beaten lightly14 black olives, pitted and chopped10 large or 20 small sheets of fillo (see above) stick (6 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter, melted First, prepare the filling by mixing the goat cheese with the beaten egg and olives.
Take out the sheets of fillo from their wrapper only when you are ready to use them since they dry out quickly, and cover them with plastic wrap when you are not using them.
Keeping the first sheet of fillo on the pile, brush it lightly with melted b.u.t.ter. Fold it lengthwise to produce a strip about 3 inches wide. Brush the top of the strip lightly with melted b.u.t.ter. Take a heaping teaspoon of filling. Place it at one end of the strip, about 1 inches from the edge, and fold the end over the filling. Now pick up a corner and fold diagonally, making a triangle. Continue to fold, trapping the filling, until the whole strip has been folded into a triangular parcel. Make sure that you close any holes as you fold so that the filling does not ooze out.
Place the little parcels close to each other on a greased baking sheet. Brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter, and bake in a preheated oven at 350F for 30 minutes, or until crisp and golden.
Serve them hot or warm. You can make them in advance and warm them up.
MEAT CIGARS Briwat Bil Kefta In Morocco, these briwat bil kefta briwat bil kefta are made with are made with warka warka (see page (see page 29 29 ) and deep-fried, but it is not only much easier to use fillo and to bake them, but the result is very good. See the note on fillo on page ) and deep-fried, but it is not only much easier to use fillo and to bake them, but the result is very good. See the note on fillo on page 9. 9. I used sheets measuring about I used sheets measuring about 6 6 inches inches [.dotmath] [.dotmath] 12 12 inches. It is very good finger food to serve at a party. inches. It is very good finger food to serve at a party.
MAKES ABOUT 60 CIGARS cup vegetable oil1 medium onion, chopped finely1 pounds ground beef or lamb2 teaspoons ground cinnamon teaspoon ground gingersaltblack pepper or good pinch of ground chili pepper3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley3 tablespoons chopped cilantro5 eggs, lightly beaten1 pound large fillo sheets2/3 cup melted b.u.t.ter or vegetable oil First prepare the filling. Heat the oil in a large skillet, and saute the onion in the oil until softened. Add the meat, spices, salt, and pepper or chili pepper, and cook, crus.h.i.+ng the meat with a fork and turning it over, for 5 to 10 minutes, until it changes color. Then stir in the chopped parsley, cilantro, and the beaten eggs, and cook gently for a moment or two, stirring all the time, until the eggs set to a creamy consistency. Let the filling cool. Taste and add more spices and pepper, if you like.
With large scissors, cut all the sheets of fillo together, without separating them, into 3 strips of about 6 inches [.dotmath] 12 inches, and put the three piles together in one pile so that they do not dry out. Brush the top sheet very lightly with melted b.u.t.ter or oil.
Put a tablespoon of filling in a line along one of the short ends, about inch from the three edges. Roll up like a cigar, folding in the long sides at the halfway point so that the filling does not fall out, then continue to roll, letting the sides unfold so that the cigars appear open.
Place the rolls side by side on a greased baking tray, brush the tops with melted b.u.t.ter, and bake in a preheated oven at 350F for 30 minutes, or until golden.
Serve them hot. You can make them in advance and warm them up.
VARIATIONS Before serving, dust the rolls first with confectioners' sugar and then with cinnamon.