Part 43 (1/2)
They do not transplant well, and therefore a showery day should, if possible, be selected for moving them. In the absence of rain, be liberal with water. They are very brittle, and should have a position somewhat sheltered from the full force of the wind; and as they revel in suns.h.i.+ne, the more roasting the season the finer will be the flowers.
==JULY==
==Antirrhinum.==--A sowing in drills during the present month or August will supply plants for flowering next year. Transfer direct from the seed-bed to the positions where they are intended to bloom.
==Calceolaria.==--If more plants are wanted, sow again. Among the seedlings which we left last month just as they had been p.r.i.c.ked off, it will soon be evident that there is a wide difference between the strength of the plants. As a rule, the most robust are those in which yellow largely predominates. These make bright and showy decorative plants, but the colours that are especially valued by florists will probably come from the seedlings which are weakly in the early stage.
Hence these should be specially prized, and under skilful management they may be grown into grand specimens. The thumb pots for Calceolarias need careful preparation with crocks covered with clean moss or vegetable fibre, and they must be filled with rich porous compost.
Transfer the plants with extreme care, and place them in a sheltered part of the greenhouse or in a shaded frame, allowing free access of air on the leeward side. If aphis has to be dealt with--and it is very partial to Calceolarias--fumigation is the best remedy. Choose a quiet evening for the operation; on the following day carefully water the plants and shade them from the sun.
==Campanula.==--The perennial varieties may still be sown, either in pans or in the open. Give them a good light soil, and do not stint the supply of water.
==Cyclamens== which are forward enough should be s.h.i.+fted into 48-sized pots. Follow up the process until all are re-potted.
==Lobelia.==--In pots or pans sow seed of the perennial varieties to provide plants for the borders next year. Pot off singly when ready, and protect in a cold frame through the winter.
==Mimulus== sown in the open ground will flower in the following spring.
If possible, make the seed-bed in a moist retentive soil and in a shaded situation.
==Primula.==--To force the growth of this plant is to ruin it. The most satisfactory results are invariably obtained from specimens which have matured slowly, and have been treated as nearly hardy after the seedling stage. From this month up to the middle of September it will be quite safe to expose them freely, day and night, except in inclement weather.
Even in the winter protection is only needed from frost, damp, and keen winds.
==AUGUST==
==Annuals and Biennials, Hardy.==--In the majority of English gardens the spring display of bulbous flowers is too often followed by a dreary blank, which is almost unredeemed by a touch of colour, except that afforded by the late Tulips and a few other flowers which are relatively unimportant. The brilliance of the Crocuses, Hyacinths, and early Tulips serves to throw into relief the comparative barrenness which follows.
And the contrast is rendered all the more striking by the cheerful spring days. It is at this juncture that annuals and biennials from summer or early autumn sowings light up the garden with welcome ma.s.ses and bands of fresh and vivid colouring. They are then so valuable that it is surprising they are not more commonly grown, especially as the cost of seed is very trifling. Even the transitory character of some of them is an element in their favour, for they do not interfere with the summer bedding arrangements. Such flowers as Pansy and Viola, however, produce a long-continued show of bloom.
The following list contains the varieties which are best adapted for the purpose:--
Alyssum, Sweet Antirrhinum Asperula azurea setosa Calandrinia umbellata Calendula officinalis fl. pl.
Candytuft Cheiranthus Allionii Chrysanthemum, Morning Star Chrysanthemum, Evening Star Chrysanthemum inodorum plenissimum Chrysanthemum segetum gr.
Clarkia Collinsia Coreopsis Cornflower Erysimum Eschscholtzia Gilia tricolor G.o.detia Iceland Poppy Larkspur, dwarf rocket Leptosiphon Limnanthes Douglasii Linaria, pink Nemophila Nigella, Miss Jekyll Papaver glauc.u.m Phacelia tanacetifolia Poppy, s.h.i.+rley Saponaria calabrica Scabious Silene Sweet Sultan Venus' Looking-gla.s.s, purple Virginian Stock Viscaria Whitlavia
Sow thinly, not later than the middle of the month in cold districts, but September will be early enough in the Southern counties. Drills are preferable to broadcasting, because the beds are more easily weeded and kept in order. Thin the rows early, so that the plants may become stout and hard before winter overtakes them. Early in the new year transplanting must be resorted to during open weather if the plants are to be flowered in heavy soil; but on light, rich land, sow where they are intended to bloom.
==Annuals under Gla.s.s.==--The flowers available for winter and spring blooming are naturally few in number compared with those which fill gardens and conservatories during the summer months. But it is not generally realised that several favourite outdoor annuals are as serviceable for flowering under gla.s.s in the short days of the year as they are for growing in the open ground in summer, and they are the more valuable for winter and spring use as no elaborate system of cultivation is needed. Any greenhouse or conservatory from which frost can be excluded will grow these annuals well. Seed should be sown in August or September, in pots or pans placed in a cool house or frame. When the seedlings have made some progress, p.r.i.c.k them off into the pots in which they are wanted to flower, and grow steadily on, bearing in mind always that the most important point is to keep the plants as hardy as possible by giving air at every favourable opportunity. The following varieties are especially suitable for winter and spring flowering under gla.s.s:--Alonsoa; The Star and Dunnettii varieties of Annual Chrysanthemum; Clarkia elegans; Dimorphotheca; Gypsophila elegans; Linaria; Nemesia Suttoni; Nicotiana, Miniature White and N. affinis; Phlox, Purity; Salpiglossis; and Swan River Daisy.
==Asters== for indoor decoration should now be lifted from beds or borders and potted. It is worth a little trouble to accomplish the task with the least possible injury or disturbance to the roots. Light soils should have a good soaking of water on the previous evening, to prevent the mould from crumbling away.
==Carnation.==--Seed may still be sown as advised in April; but to carry the plants safely through the winter it is necessary to have them strong before cold weather sets in.
==Chionodoxa== can be forced with the same ease as Roman Hyacinths. A 48-sized pot will accommodate several bulbs.
==Cinerarias== are frequently placed in the open during this month and September, and as it tends to impart a hardy const.i.tution, the practice is to be commended. A north border under a wall will suit them, but the proximity of a hedge should be avoided. Before the plants are put out see that they are quite clean, or it may be necessary to restore them to the house in order to rid them of some troublesome pest.
==Clarkia.==--The varieties of the Elegans cla.s.s make very handsome pot plants, and to insure the requisite number seed must be sown in well-drained pots during this month or early in September.
==Cyclamen.==--Where Cyclamens are extensively grown it is usual to make the first sowing in August, and many gardeners regard this as the most important period for securing healthy young seedlings. A common mistake with beginners is to raise them in too high a temperature. On this and other points useful suggestions will be found in the article commencing on page 256.