Part 22 (1/2)

==CRIMSON AND SCARLET SHADES, including Carmine and Ruby.==

==TALL.==

Coreopsis atrosanguinea 3 Helichrysum, Fireball 3 Poppy, Giant Double, Scarlet 3 Polygonum, Ruby Gem 2-1/2 Malope, Red 2 Nasturtium, Tall, Improved Lucifer Cl.

Nasturtium, Tall, Black Prince Cl.

==MEDIUM.==

Chrysanthemum atrococcineum 2 Clarkia elegans, Salmon scarlet 2 ” ” Firefly 2 G.o.detia, Double Crimson 2 Poppy, Cardinal 2 Cacalia coccinea 1-1/2 Coreopsis cardaminifolia, Dwarf 1-1/2

==DWARF.==

Candytuft, Improved Carmine 1 ” Dark crimson 1 Centranthus macrosiphon 1 G.o.detia, Crimson King 1 ” Scarlet Queen 1 ” Lady Albemarle 1 Linum grandifiorum rubrum 1 Nasturtium, Dwarf, Scarlet Queen 1 ” ” King Theodore 1 ” King of Tom Thumbs 1 Viscaria cardinalis 1 Collomia coccinea 3/4 Coreopsis, Dwarf Crimson 3/4 Eschscholtzia, Ruby King 3/4 G.o.detia, Afterglow 3/4 ” Lady Albemarle, dwarf 3/4 Saponaria, Scarlet Queen 1/2 Virginian Stock, Crimson King 1/2 Viscaria, Dwarf Carmine 1/2

Yet one other method of growing annuals calls for special mention. It is not fully recognised that a number of subjects, usually a.s.sociated only with beds and borders, may also be flowered with the greatest ease under gla.s.s in winter and early spring. Those who have not hitherto attempted the culture of annuals in this way will be delighted with the charming effects produced. Among the subjects most suitable for the purpose are Alonsoa; the Star and Dunnettii varieties of Annual Chrysanthemum; =Clarkia elegans; = Dimorphotheca; =Gypsophila elegans=; Linaria; =Nemesia Suttoni=; Nicotiana, Miniature White and =N. affinis=; Phlox, Purity, one of the most lovely pot plants for the conservatory and of especial value for decorative work at Easter; Salpiglossis; and the pretty blue, Cineraria-like, Swan River Daisy. From the fact that these annuals are of the hardy or half-hardy types it will be readily understood that no great amount of heat is required to bring them to maturity; indeed, the more hardy the treatment the better for their well-doing. Seed should be sown during August or September in pots or pans placed in a cool frame, the seedlings being p.r.i.c.ked off into other pots as soon as they have attained a suitable size. As colder weather approaches, transfer to the greenhouse or conservatory, and provided the night temperature is not allowed to fall below 45 all should be well.

During the day give the plants the maximum of air whenever weather permits.

==Hardy Annuals.==--The seeds should be sown on a carefully prepared surface from which large stones have been removed, and the clods must be broken, but the soil should not be made so smooth as to become pasty under rain. Sow thinly, in rows s.p.a.ced to agree with the height of the plant, cover with a very slight coat of fine dry earth--the smallest seeds needing but a mere dusting to cover them--and, from the first, keep the plants thinned sufficiently to prevent overcrowding.

Spring-sown annuals are worthy of a better soil than they usually have allotted them, and also of more careful treatment. It is not wise to sow earlier than March or later than the middle of April. In the after-culture the most important matter is to keep the clumps well thinned. Not only will the bloom of crowded plants be comparatively poor and brief, but by early and bold thinning the plants will become so robust, and cover such large s.p.a.ces of ground with their ample leaf.a.ge and well-developed flowers, as really to astonish people who think they know all about annuals, and who may have ventured after much ill-treatment to designate them 'fugacious and weedy.' Although the sowing of hardy annuals direct on to beds and borders where the plants are wanted is economical in labour and avoids the check which transplanting occasions, the practice of raising annuals on specially prepared seed-beds and p.r.i.c.king out the plants to blooming quarters is sometimes followed. The soil into which they are transferred for flowering should be deeply dug, thoroughly broken up, and, if at all poor, liberally manured. It is an excellent plan also to sow hardy annuals outdoors in autumn, but it is needless to say more on this subject here, as it is dealt with fully at page 313.

==Half-hardy Annuals.==--Give these as long a period of growth as possible to insure a vigorous plant before the season of flowering. The best time for sowing is February, or the beginning of March; for although some kinds may with advantage be sown earlier, it is safer, as a rule, to wait for suns.h.i.+ne and full daylight, so as to keep up a steady and continuous growth. The soil for the seed-pans should be rich and fine.

Good loam, improved by the addition of thoroughly decayed manure and leaf-mould, with sufficient sand to render the texture porous, will suit all kinds of annuals that are sown in pans under gla.s.s. Sow the seed thinly, cover very slightly, and lay squares of gla.s.s over to keep a uniform degree of moisture without the necessity of watering. Should watering become necessary, take care to avoid was.h.i.+ng the seeds out. If the pans or pots are stood in a vessel containing several inches depth of water until sufficient has been absorbed, there will be no occasion to pour water on the surface. A gentle heat is to be preferred; when germination is too rapid it tends to the production of weak plants. As soon as the young plants appear, remove the gla.s.ses and place the seed-pans in the fullest light, where air can be given without danger to them. A dry east wind blowing fiercely over them will prove a blast of death. If they have no air at all, they will be puny, rickety things, scarcely worth planting out. Choice varieties should be carefully p.r.i.c.ked out into pans and pots as soon as large enough; this will promote a fine, stocky growth and a splendid development of flowers.

Take care not to plant out until the weather is favourable, for any great check will undo all your work, and make starvelings of your nurslings. If you cannot command heat for half-hardy annuals, sow in the first week in April, put the pans in a frame facing south, and the seeds will soon grow and do well. If that is too much trouble, sow in the open border early in May, making the border rich and friable, that they may have a good chance from the first.

==Tender Annuals.==--These require the same general treatment as advised for half-hardy annuals. But it is desirable to sow in a stronger heat than is necessary for annuals that are to be planted out. It is also requisite to be in good time in p.r.i.c.king out the seedlings, for if they get much drawn they cannot make robust pot plants. A light, rich, perfectly sweet soil, containing a fair proportion of sharp sand, is necessary to insure plants worth having. It is also important to get them into separate small pots as soon as possible, and to s.h.i.+ft them on to larger and larger pots, until they have sufficient pot room for flowering, after which s.h.i.+ft no more. As soon as these pots are filled with roots, give very weak manure water constantly until the plants are in flower, and then discontinue it, using instead pure soft water only.

==Hardy Biennials and Perennials.==--These are often sown in pans or boxes, and are p.r.i.c.ked off when large enough into other pans or pots before they are transferred to beds or borders. The system has certain advantages in insuring safety from vermin and proper attention, for it is an unfortunate fact that too many cultivators consider it needless to thin or transplant sowings made in beds or borders. The plants are frequently allowed to struggle for existence, and the result is feeble attenuated specimens which, with trifling care and attention, might have become robust and capable of producing a bountiful bloom in their season. Still, it should be clearly understood that all the hardy biennials and perennials may be grown to perfection by sowing on a suitable seed-bed in the open ground, protecting the spot from marauders of all kinds, and by early and fearless thinning or transplanting. As a rule, we advocate one s.h.i.+ft before placing the plants in final positions.

==ABUTILON==

==Half-hardy greenhouse perennial==

Handsome plants, two feet or more in height, can be produced from seed and flowered in a single season. They are useful for training to greenhouse walls, and they may also be transferred to open borders for the summer. When employed for the latter purpose, the plants should be lifted and put into pots about the end of August, after there has been a penetrating shower. In the absence of rain a soaking of water on the previous day will prevent the soil from falling away from the roots.

February and March are the right months for sowing seed, and for the pots any fairly light compost will answer. p.r.i.c.k off the seedlings when about an inch high, putting the plants in down to the seed-leaves. They must never be allowed to suffer for want of water, nor should they be starved in small pots. The growth had better not be hurried at any stage; the plants will then develop into shapely specimens with very little care.

==ACHIMENES==

==Greenhouse or stove perennials==

Although Achimenes can be propagated by division of the tubers, the simpler method of raising a supply from seed has become a common practice. During March or April sow in pots or pans, and while quite small transfer the seedlings to separate pots. It is important to insure free drainage, especially as frequent watering is a necessity while the plants are in active growth. Achimenes are generally kept in a high temperature; but they do not really need so much heat as Gloxinias, and in a warm greenhouse they can be flowered without the least difficulty.

This is one of the finest subjects for growing in hanging-baskets.