Part 16 (1/2)

For fastening a turned ornament (or ”finial”) to the end of a cornice pole a double pointed screw (known in the trade as a ”dowel screw”) is used, one half of which is screwed into each part of the pieces to be joined.

VENEER KEYING.--Fig. 346 ill.u.s.trates the method of strengthening the corners of boxes which are made of 1/4-in. or 3/8-in. timber, by securing the corners with veneer keys. The box is mitred and glued in the usual manner, and after allowing sufficient time for the glue to set, saw kerfs are made as shown at _a a_. A piece of thin saw-cut veneer is afterwards glued into the saw kerfs, and when dry the face is levelled off flush.

This method is often used previous to veneering the face side of the box with rare veneers, and it is also useful for repair work. Note that the saw cuts are made at an angle. Small picture frames are sometimes keyed instead of nailed.

MUNTIN AND SKIRTING JOINT.--In the case of panelled rooms it is usually necessary to scribe the muntins (or uprights) to the skirting. The method is shown in Fig. 347. The bead moulding of the skirting is only partly removed, as indicated, leaving a solid portion to which the muntin is skew-nailed.

COT JOINT.--At Fig. 348 is shown an interesting joint used largely in the making of Indian cots. The ill.u.s.trations indicate how the cross bar and end bar are mortised into the leg. A turned hardwood peg fits into a suitably provided hole and locks the tenons, which are dry jointed (not glued) in position. The head of this peg forms an ornament (A) at the top of the leg and should fit tightly in position. At B are seen the end and cross bars in their relative positions when apart from the leg. C shows the end bar and cross bar when the cot is fixed, but in this ill.u.s.tration the leg is purposely left out of the drawing for a clear representation. D shows the joints of the leg portion when the part of the leg above the line at A is sawn off. The hardwood peg is shown at E.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 347.--Fixing Muntin to Skirting.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 348.--Joint for Home-made Cot.]

SIDEBOARD PILLARS, ETC. (Fig. 349).--For economy, sideboard pillars are sometimes built up as indicated, the ”shaft,” the ”base,” and the ”swell”

being made up of three distinct pieces. Turned pins are left on the shaft and the base, and these are secured at the joint by the use of a double-pointed screw called a dowel screw. This does away with the necessity of reducing the squares at the top of the wood and thus getting the turning out of a large piece of wood.

NOTCHED JOINTS.--Fig. 350 is a ”notched joint,” where two joists, or scantlings, cross each other, the object of the joint being to prevent the joists moving from their position without materially weakening them.

For an end notch, see Fig. 352.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 349.--Method of Building up Turnings.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 350.--Notched Joint.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 351.--The Saddle Joint.]

The ”saddle joint” (Fig. 351) is used for connecting upright posts to heads or sills of framing, and undoubtedly takes its name from its similarity to the way in which the saddle fits the horse. It does not weaken the framing as does a mortise and tenon joint, and shrinkage has little effect upon the joint. The ”cogged joint,” used for connecting purlins to rafter and joists to girders, is ill.u.s.trated in Fig. 353.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 352.--End Notch.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 353.--Cogged Joint.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 354.--Birdsmouth Joint.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 355.--Another type of Birdsmouth Joint.]

BIRDSMOUTH JOINTS.--Fig. 354 is a ”birdsmouth joint,” a simple joint which can be readily made by the handsaw, used when a spar fits on the wall plate. A nail is shown securing it in position.

Fig. 355 shows the birdsmouth joint where the spar runs over the _outside_ of the wall plate, thus allowing a fixing for an ornamental finish.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 356.--Rafter and Tie Beam Joint.]

RAFTER JOINT.--Fig. 356 shows an everyday joint, as used at the juncture of the princ.i.p.al rafter and the tie-beam in roof truss work. A sketch of piece A is shown separated, and it should be noted that the depth of the cut portion B should not be more than one-fourth of the total width of the tie-beam.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 357.--Method of Pelleting the Corner of a Mitred Picture Frame.]

PELLETING.--Fig. 357 indicates the method of pelleting and s.c.r.e.w.i.n.g the corner of a picture frame. The mitre joint is first screwed and a pellet of the same timber is made to fill the hole which has been bored to receive the screw head. The pellet is glued in position and levelled off.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 358.--Patera Covers to Hide Screws.]

PATERA COVERS.--In cases where the style of ornament permits of it, patera covers are used instead of pelleting. Fig. 358 shows the jointing of shaped spandrails, etc., to carcase ends of light portable cabinet work, etc. A hole is bored about 3/8 in. deep into the end, and a screw is used to hold the shaping in position. After fixing the rail a small turned b.u.t.ton, called a turned patera, is inserted in the hole, thus giving an ornamental finish, as shown in the front view. The turned patera is driven fairly tightly into the hole, but not glued. When it is required to take the article apart a chisel is carefully inserted under the edge of the patera to remove it, and the screw can then be taken out.

This method is often used for the construction of light hanging bookcases and similar objects. For a bookcase having an end 8 ins. wide three of these turned b.u.t.tons and three screws would be used to secure the shelf to the end. Pateras in different styles may be purchased from any dealer in woodworking sundries.