Part 13 (1/2)

An alternative method of dovetailing is that of cutting the dovetails first, as shown at Fig. 283. Four or six drawer sides are placed in the vice and the dovetails are sawn at one operation. A little lead (or bevel) from front to back is given whilst sawing, and if this method be used care must be taken to see that the parts of the drawer sides which will be on the inside of the completed drawer are towards the worker, or the lead will be given to the dovetails in the wrong direction.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 283.--Cutting several Dovetails at once.]

After sawing the dovetails in this manner the sides are placed in their respective positions on the drawer fronts or backs, and marked with a pounce-bag or by using the saw-blade method. The pins are then cut in the usual way, care being taken that the saw kerf be on the outside of the marks, otherwise the pins will finish too slack to engage with the tails.

FRAME DOVETAILS.--Fig. 284 is a sketch of a constructional frame such as is used for building up a cornice or plinth. At the joint marked A an edge barefaced dovetail is shown. From the separated sketches of the joint (B) it will be seen that the dovetail can be put together either from the top or the bottom of the framing as all its edges are parallel; glue is relied upon to hold it in position. The centre stretcher rail at Fig. 284 is similar, except that in this case it is a complete dovetail in place of a barefaced one.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 284.--Constructional Frame (as for Plinth or Cornice) showing application of the Dovetail Joint.]

Some workers, when making either of the above joints, prefer to give a slight bevel to the dovetail, so that it drives tightly into the housing when put together.

A variation of this type of dovetail is frequently used to joint internal uprights to the horizontal shelves of writing desks, cabinets, and bookcases, etc. The dovetailed portion is parallel for about three-fourths of its width; the remaining part is tapered towards the front edge and notched away at the face so as to conceal the method of construction. An ill.u.s.tration of the top portion of a division 14 ins.

wide is shown at Fig. 284, C. The other portion is of course dovetailed to fit it.

BLIND LAP-DOVETAILING.--At Fig. 285 is shown a type of blind lap-dovetailing. This makes a good, sound joint, but it has the disadvantage of showing a small portion of the timber of the front rail end-way of the grain. Joints of this kind are used for cornices, boxes, etc., and also for painted furniture.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 285.--Blind Lap-Dovetailing.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 286.--Housed and Mitred Dovetail.]

HOUSED AND MITRED DOVETAIL.--Fig. 286 is another form of dovetail--commonly called a housed and mitred or rebated and mitred dovetail. In this instance we see that a small portion is mitred at top and bottom edges, and when used in plinth or cornice work, or for making tea-caddies, etc., the edges are (when completing the work) covered either with the moulding, which is planted on the cornice or plinth, or with the top and bottom of the box or tea-caddy.

The method of making a housed and mitred dovetail joint is seen in Fig.

286. The ends to be joined are planed up true and square and then rebated as shown. The dotted lines indicate the portion which has been worked away. The dovetails are now sawn and pared out in the usual way and the part denoted by the arrow is afterwards cut away with a chisel and finally finished to a smooth surface with a rebate plane; the method of working is shown at Fig. 287, where the dovetail pins are seen with the waste portions cut away.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 287.--Working a Housed and Mitred Dovetail Joint.]

Fig. 287 also shows the method of cutting away the mitred part. A temporary piece of wood is planed to a true mitre and placed underneath the dovetailed piece to form a template. Both pieces of the timber are now secured to the bench with a handscrew or cramp; the template A will form a guide for the chisel and rebate plane and allow a sharp edge or arris to be worked on the mitre.

A SECRET MITRED DOVETAIL joint is ill.u.s.trated at Fig. 288; it is used in all the better cla.s.s of cabinet and box work. Fig. 288 shows the pieces separated; note the mitre at the top and bottom edge.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 288.--Secret Mitre Dovetailing.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 289.--Dovetailed Keys for Wide Surfaces.]

DOVETAIL KEYING.--Fig. 289 is a method used to prevent wide boards such as signboards, wide and shaped pediments, etc., from casting or warping.

It is called dovetail keying. Beyond calling attention to the fact that the angles at the edges of the keys, where they are bevelled, should be at or about 75 degrees, nothing further need be said, as the drawing is self-explanatory. Angle dovetail keying is shown at Figs. 290 and 291.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 290.--Dovetail Key.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 291.--Dovetail Keying on the Angle.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 292.--Bow-fronted Door Dovetailed Edgeways.]

OTHER VARIETIES.--At Fig. 292 we have an everyday method of jointing circular-fronted cabinet door frames. Great care must be taken in setting out and making, or a twisted frame will result.

Then at Fig. 293 are shown two familiar examples of dovetailing the bearer to the carcase end of a dressing table or washstand.

Fig. 294.--Lap-dovetailing the top of a wardrobe to the carcase end.