Part 5 (1/2)

Fig. 111 is a ”Combing or corner locking” joint, a method of making boxes by means of a continuous use of tongues and grooves instead of dovetails.

This type of joint is generally machine made. The amateur, however, who is not proficient to undertake a dovetailed box frequently uses this method.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 110.--Corner of Barred Door.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 111.--Combing or Locking Joint.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 112.--Single Loose Tongue and Double-tongue Joint.]

CORNER JOINTS.--Fig. 112 shows both a single loose tongue and a double solid tongue. Both are methods used to connect circular cornered work, such as a counter end, to the front framing.

Fig. 113 indicates a tongued and grooved joint suitable for edge or end jointing, such as fitting matchboarding round a chimney breast, making small jewel drawers, etc.

Fig. 114 is a tongued and grooved joint with a bead worked on same to hide the joint, sometimes called a staff-bead. It would be used in positions such as boarding around an upright iron pillar, etc., the bead giving a neat finish at each corner.

Fig. 115 is a similar joint, but at an obtuse angle. An example of its use is in fixing boarding around an octagonal column of brickwork.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 113., Fig. 114., Fig. 115. Examples of Tongued and Grooved Corner Joints.]

Fig. 116 shows a tongued and grooved mitre as used for strengthening the corners of cabinet work, such as tea caddies, small boxes, plinths, etc.

Two pieces of wood are glued in position and allowed to set prior to glueing and cramping the joint proper. These pieces are afterwards planed away, thus leaving a clear surface to the box sides.

Fig. 117 shows the method of working the groove in the above joints. The pieces are turned back to back, the mitres thus making a right angle. The guide on the grooving plane thus works against each face of the joint, and this ensures correct jointing.

Fig. 118 is somewhat similar to Fig. 113, but with a quarter circle mould to hide the joint.

Fig. 119 indicates the building up of a double skirting mould. C represents the brickwork, A the oak-framed panelling, and B the packing and fixing block. A wide skirting of this type is made in two portions for convenience in working the moulding and to prevent undue shrinkage.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 116.--Cramping a Tongued and Grooved Mitre.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 117.--Working a Groove.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 118.--Corner Joint with Corner Mould.]

Fig. 120 ill.u.s.trates the use of a tongued and grooved joint for fixing together the sides of a corner bracket, and the same method holds good when jointing a corner cupboard. A capping mould or top shelf will conceal the joint; it then has the appearance of a glued b.u.t.t joint, but is of course considerably stronger. No screws or nails are required if this joint be used.

PLOUGHING.--When grooves have to be worked in the edge or face of a board to receive tongues, the process is generally called ploughing, and it is usually accomplished by a special tool called a plough (or, as it is occasionally spelt, ”plow”). When a plough plane is bought it is usual to procure eight plough bits or blades of various sizes to fit the plane. In Fig. 121 is given the sketch of a plough plane with the names of the various parts lettered thereon.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 119.--Double Skirting Mould.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 120.--Joint for Corner Bracket or Cupboard.]

The board or boards which it is desired to groove are first planed straight and true, exactly as though it were desired to make a glued or b.u.t.t joint. One of the boards is now placed edge way up in the vice and with the face side to the worker.

Take the plough plane and select a suitably-sized blade; fix it in the plane in the usual way, allowing the cutting edge to project beyond the steel skate about 1/32 in., and securely drive up the wedge. Next loosen the small boxwood wedges at the side of each stem, and adjust the plane by tapping the stems with a hammer until the cutting iron is in the desired position; then knock up the small wedges nice and tight. When setting the fence to or from the blade it is a wise precaution to measure the distance from the fence to the skate at each end of the plane; this will ensure the skate being parallel to the fence. The neglect of this is a source of annoyance to many amateurs. Now adjust the depth stop by turning the screw at the top of the plane, measuring the depth of the required groove from the edge of the blade to the stop, and carefully lock the screw which adjusts this stop.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 121.--The Plough Plane and its Parts.]

The plane is now ready for use. Hold the fence close up to the side of the timber, the hands in position as shown at Fig. 122, the position of the body being that generally a.s.sumed in planing. Move the plane backwards and forwards in the usual manner, beginning the cut at the end of the board nearest to the vice jaws (the front), and proceed with the planing until the depth stop is in contact with the wood. Then take a step backwards and repeat the process until the whole length of the groove is ploughed. Care must be taken to force the fence up to the board with the left hand, whilst the right hand thrusts the plane backwards and forwards, and the plane must be kept vertical.