Part 10 (1/2)

CHAPTER IX

AMBERLEY AND PARHAM

Suss.e.x fish--A straw-blown village--A painter of Suss.e.x light--A castle only in name--Parham's treasures--The Parham heronry--Storrington and the sagacious Jack Pudding--A Suss.e.x audience.

[Sidenote: SUSs.e.x FISH]

Five miles to the north of Arundel by road (over the Arun at Houghton's ancient bridge, restored by the bishops of Chichester in the fifteenth century), and a few minutes by rail, is Amberley, the fis.h.i.+ng metropolis of Suss.e.x, where, every Sunday in the season, London anglers meet to drop their lines in friendly rivalry. ”Amerley trout” (as Walton calls them) and Arundel mullet are the best of the Arun's treasures; and this reminds me of Fuller's tribute to Suss.e.x fish, which may well be quoted in this watery neighbourhood: ”Now, as this County is eminent for both _Sea_ and _River-_fish, namely, an _Arundel Mullet_, a _Chichester Lobster_, a _Shelsey c.o.c.kle_, and an _Amerly Trout_; so _Suss.e.x_ aboundeth with more _Carpes_ than any other of this Nation. And though not so great as _Jovius_ reporteth to be found in the _Lurian Lake_ in _Italy_, weighing more than fifty pounds, yet those generally of great and goodly proportion. I need not adde, that _Physicians_ account the galls of _Carpes_, as also a stone in their heads, to be _Medicinable_; only I will observe that, because _Jews_ will not eat _Caviare_ made of _Sturgeon_ (because coming from a fish wanting Scales, and therefore forbidden in the _Levitical Law_); therefore the _Italians_ make greater profit of the _Spaun_ of _Carps_, whereof they make a _Red Caviare_, well pleasing the _Jews_ both in _Palate_ and _Conscience_. All I will adde of _Carps_ is this, that _Ramus_ himself doth not so much redound in _Dichotomies_ as they do; seeing no one bone is to be found in their body, which is not _forked_ or divided into two parts at the end thereof.”

Amberley proper, as distinguished from Amberley of the anglers, is a mile from the station and is built on a ridge. The castle is the extreme western end of this ridge, the north side of which descends precipitously to the marshy plain that extends as far as Pulborough.

Standing on the castle one sees Pulborough church due north--height calling unto height. The castle is now a farm; indeed, all Amberley is a huge stockyard, smelling of straw and cattle. It is sheer Suss.e.x--chalky soil, whitewashed cottages, huge waggons; and one of the best of Suss.e.x painters, and, in his exquisite modest way, of all painters living, dwells in the heart of it--Edward Stott, who year after year shows London connoisseurs how the clear skin of the Suss.e.x boy takes the evening light; and how the Southdown sheep drink at hill ponds beneath a violet sky; and that there is nothing more beautiful under the stars than a whitewashed cottage just when the lamp is lit.

[Sidenote: AMBERLEY AND PARHAM]

Amberley has no right to lay claim to a castle, for the old ruins are not truly, as they seem, the remains of a castellated stronghold, but of a crenellated mansion. John Langton, Bishop of Chichester in the fourteenth century, was the first builder. Previously the Church lands here had been held very jealously, and in 1200 we find Bishop Gilbert de Leofard twice excommunicating, and as often absolving, the Earl of Arundel for poaching (as he termed it) in Houghton Forest. The Church lost Amberley in the sixteenth century. William Rede, who succeeded Langton to both house and see, wis.h.i.+ng to feel secure in his home, craved permission to dig a moat around it and to render it both hostile and defensive. Hence its lion-like mien; but it has known no warfare, and the castle's mouldering walls now give what a.s.sistance they can in harbouring live stock. Twentieth-century sheds lean against fourteenth-century masonry; f.a.ggots are stored in the moat; lawn tennis is played in the courtyard; and black pigeons peep from the slits cut for arquebusiers.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Amberley Castle._]

Amberley Castle only once intrudes itself in history: Charles II., during his flight in 1651, spent a night there under the protection of Sir John Briscoe, as we saw in Chapter III.

In winter, if you ask an Amberley man where he dwells, he says, ”Amberley, G.o.d help us.” In summer he says, ”Amberley--where _would_ you live?”

From Amberley to Parham one keeps upon the narrow ridge for a mile or so, branching off then to the left. Parham's advance guard is seen all the way--a clump of fir trees, indicating that the soil there changes to sand.

[Sidenote: A n.o.bLE DAME]

For two possessions is Parham noted: a heronry in the park, and in the house a copy of Montaigne with Shakespeare's autograph in it. The house, a spreading Tudor mansion, is the seat of Lord Zouche, a descendant of the traveller, Robert Curzon, who wrote _The Monasteries of the Levant_, that long, leisurely, and fascinating narrative of travel. In addition to Montaigne, it enshrines a priceless collection of armour, of incunabula and Eastern MSS. Among the pictures are full lengths of Sir Philip Sidney and Lady Sidney, and that Penelope D'Arcy--one of Mr.

Hardy's ”n.o.ble Dames”--who promised to marry three suitors in turn and did so. We see her again at Firle Place.

A hiding hole for priests and other refugees is in the long gallery, access to it being gained through a window seat. There was hidden Charles Paget after the Babington conspiracy.

[Sidenote: THE PARHAM HERONS]

Parham Park has deer and a lake and an enchanted forest of sombre trees.

On the highest ground in this forest is the clump of firs in which the famous herons build. The most interesting time to visit the heronry is in the breeding season, for then one sees the lank birds continually homing from the Amberley Wild Brooks with fishes in their bills and long legs streaming behind. The noise is tremendous, beyond all rookeries.

Mr. Knox's _Ornithological Rambles_, from which I have already quoted freely, has this pa.s.sage: ”The herons at Parham a.s.semble early in February, and then set about repairing their nests, but the trees are never entirely deserted during the winter months; a few birds, probably some of the more backward of the preceding season, roosting among their boughs every night. They commence laying early in March, and the greater part of the young birds are hatched during the early days of April.

About the end of May they may be seen to flap out of their nests to the adjacent boughs, and bask for hours in the warm suns.h.i.+ne; but although now comparatively quiet during the day, they become clamorous for food as the evening approaches, and indeed for a long time appear to be more difficult to wean, and less able to s.h.i.+ft for themselves, than most birds of a similar age. They may be observed, as late as August, still on the trees, screaming for food, and occasionally fed by their parents, who forage for them a.s.siduously; indeed, these exertions, so far from being relaxed after the setting of the sun, appear to be redoubled during the night; for I have frequently disturbed herons when riding by moonlight among the low grounds near the river, where I have seldom seen them during the day, and several cottagers in the neighbourhood of Parham have a.s.sured me that their shrill cry may be heard at all hours of the night, during the summer season, as they fly to and fro overhead, on their pa.s.sage between the heronry and the open country.

[Ill.u.s.tration: _Amberley Castle, entrance to Churchyard._]

[Sidenote: MANY MIGRATIONS]

”The history or genealogy of the progenitors of this colony is remarkable. They were originally brought from Coity Castle, in Wales, by Lord Leicester's steward, in James the First's time, to Penshurst, in Kent, the seat of Lord de Lisle, where their descendants continued for more than two hundred years; from thence they migrated to Michelgrove, about seventy miles from Penshurst and eight from Parham; here they remained for nearly twenty years, until the proprietor of the estate disposed of it to the late Duke of Norfolk, who, having purchased it, not as a residence, but with the view of increasing the local property in the neighbourhood of Arundel, pulled down the house, and felled one or two of the trees on which the herons had constructed their nests. The migration commenced immediately, but appears to have been gradual; for three seasons elapsed before all the members of the heronry had found their way over the Downs to their new quarters in the fir-woods of Parham. This occurred about seventeen years ago [written c. 1848].”

Suss.e.x, says Mr. Borrer, author of _The Birds of Suss.e.x_, has two other large heronries--at Windmill Hill Place, near Hailsham, and Brede, near Winchelsea--and some smaller ones, one being at Molecomb, above Goodwood.