Part 1 (2/2)

_Cacao Beans and Coconuts._

In old ma.n.u.scripts the word cacao is spelled in all manner of ways, but _cocoa_ survived them all. This curious inversion, _cocoa_, is to be regretted, for it has led to a confusion which could not otherwise have arisen. But for this spelling no one would have dreamed of confusing the totally unrelated bodies, cacao and the milky coconut. (You note that I spell it ”coconut,” not ”cocoanut,” for the name is derived from the Spanish ”coco,” ”grinning face,” or bugbear for frightening children, and was given to the nut because the three scars at the broad end of the nut resemble a grotesque face). To make confusion worse confounded the old writers referred to cacao _seeds_ as cocoa _nuts_ (as for example, in _The Humble Memorial of Joseph Fry_, quoted in the chapter on history), but, as in appearance cacao seeds resemble _beans_, they are now usually spoken of as beans. The distinction between cacao and the coconut may be summarised thus:

Cacao. Coconut.

Botanical Name Theobroma Cacao Cocos nucifera Palm Tree Palm

Fruit Cacao pod, containing Coconut, which with outer many seeds (cacao beans) fibre is as large as a man's head

Products Cocoa Broken coconut (copra) Chocolate Coconut matting

Fatty Const.i.tuent Cacao b.u.t.ter Coconut oil

CHAPTER I

COCOA AND CHOCOLATE--A SKETCH OF THEIR HISTORY

Did time and s.p.a.ce allow, there is much to be told on the romantic side of chocolate, of its divine origin, of the b.l.o.o.d.y wars and brave exploits of the Spaniards who conquered Mexico and were the first to introduce cacao into Europe, tales almost too thrilling to be believed, of the intrigues of the Spanish Court, and of celebrities who met and sipped their chocolate in the parlours of the coffee and chocolate houses so fas.h.i.+onable in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

_Cocoa and Chocolate_ (Whymper).

On opening a cacao pod, it is seen to be full of beans surrounded by a fruity pulp, and whilst the pulp is very pleasant to taste, the beans themselves are uninviting, so that doubtless the beans were always thrown away until ... someone tried roasting them. One pictures this ”someone,” a pre-historic Aztec with swart skin, sniffing the aromatic fume coming from the roasting beans, and thinking that beans which smelled so appetising must be good to consume. The name of the man who discovered the use of cacao must be written in some early chapter of the history of man, but it is blurred and unreadable: all we know is that he was an inhabitant of the New World and probably of Central America.

_Original Home of Cacao._

The corner of the earth where the cacao tree originally grew, and still grows wild to-day, is the country watered by the mighty Amazon and the Orinoco. This is the very region in which Orellano, the Spanish adventurer, said that he had truly seen El Dorado, which he described as a City of Gold, roofed with gold, and standing by a lake with golden sands. In reality, El Dorado was nothing but a vision, a vision that for a hundred years fascinated all manner of dreamers and adventurers from Sir Walter Raleigh downwards, so that many braved great hards.h.i.+ps in search of it, groped through the forests where the cacao tree grew, and returned to Europe feeling they had failed. To our eyes they were not entirely unsuccessful, for whilst they failed to find a city of gold, they discovered the home of the golden pod.

[Ill.u.s.tration: OLD DRAWING OF AN AMERICAN INDIAN; AT HIS FEET A CHOCOLATE-CUP, CHOCOLATE-POT, AND CHOCOLATE WHISK OR ”MOLINET.”

(From _Traitez Nouveaux et Curieux du Cafe, du The, et du Chocolate_.

Dufour, 1693).]

_Montezuma--the First Great Patron of Chocolate._

When Columbus discovered the New World he brought back with him to Europe many new and curious things, one of which was cacao. Some years later, in 1519, the Spanish conquistador, Cortes, landed in Mexico, marched into the interior and discovered to his surprise, not the huts of savages, but a beautiful city, with palaces and museums. This city was the capital of the Aztecs, a remarkable people, notable alike for their ancient civilisation and their wealth. Their national drink was chocolate, and Montezuma, their Emperor, who lived in a state of luxurious magnificence, ”took no other beverage than the chocolatl, a potation of chocolate, flavoured with vanilla and other spices, and so prepared as to be reduced to a froth of the consistency of honey, which gradually dissolved in the mouth and was taken cold. This beverage if so it could be called, was served in golden goblets, with spoons of the same metal or tortoise-sh.e.l.l finely wrought. The Emperor was exceedingly fond of it, to judge from the quant.i.ty--no less than fifty jars or pitchers being prepared for his own daily consumption: two thousand more were allowed for that of his household.”[1] It is curious that Montezuma took no other beverage than chocolate, especially if it be true that the Aztecs also invented that fascinating drink, the c.o.c.ktail (xoc-tl). How long this ancient people, students of the mysteries of culinary science, had known the art of preparing a drink from cacao, is not known, but it is evident that the cultivation of cacao received great attention in these parts, for if we read down the list of the tributes paid by different cities to the Lords of Mexico, we find ”20 chests of ground chocolate, 20 bags of gold dust,” again ”80 loads of red chocolate, 20 lip-jewels of clear amber,” and yet again ”200 loads of chocolate.”

[1] Prescott's _Conquest of Mexico_.

Another people that share with the Aztecs the honour of being the first great cultivators of cacao are the Incas of Peru, that wonderful nation that knew not poverty.

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