Part 17 (1/2)
Julie joined the women in the river, and they giggled as she s.h.i.+vered in the cold water. One handed her a spare sarong to dry herself and when she hurried back to the longhouse the smell of the wood fire and the blue curl of smoke coming from the kitchen was a welcome sign that breakfast was underway.
David looked bleary eyed as he sat cross-legged in the ruai, a blanket around his shoulders, poking at the remains of the small fire in an attempt to get a blaze going.
'Good morning, David,' said Julie coolly.
He grunted. 'b.l.o.o.d.y tuak. Gets you every time.'
'Not me,' said Julie as she went to dress, thinking how annoyed she was with him. While she could dismiss his drunken pa.s.s at her as the result of too much rice wine, he had, nevertheless, sunk in her estimation and she found she actually didn't like him very much at all. She appreciated his help with her mother's bypa.s.s fight and the fact that he'd opened a door to her family's past, but these actions didn't give him any rights of possession, which he'd been suggesting, not just last night, but for the last few days. Now she wondered how she was going to put up with him for the rest of the week.
Nevertheless the day pa.s.sed quickly and was full of interest. Tuai James, acting as tour guide, took them into the jungle, showing the area that had been cleared for their rice fields and other crops. He gave them a demonstration of hunting with the blowpipe, though he said that it was seldom used these days. By the river they watched the Iban catch fish by herding them into the big woven nets and traps and, finally, a group of men showed them how they cleared the jungle with the large and lethal parangs.
They came to a beautiful, clear stream in a magical setting and waded upstream while Tuai James pointed out plants, monkeys and the paw print of a large animal. Barry filmed it all, including the time spent just sitting and smoking. By the time they trudged back to the long-house it was sunset and Julie found that bathing in the river with the women and children that evening was a cool and welcome relief.
There was no singing and dancing that night. After the meal Tuai Jimbun lay back with his cigarette and everyone settled comfortably, looking expectantly at him.
'Grandfather is telling a story,' Chitra told Julie and she translated as the old man's voice droned on, reciting one of the crowd's favourites.
Later, as Julie walked down the ruai to her bilek to go to sleep, Charles stopped her.
'In case you're interested, I am going downriver tomorrow. I have to return to Kuching. If you wish to come with me, you're welcome. I understand the team has a lot more field work to do. Perhaps you are not all that interested in scientific work.'
Julie leapt at the opportunity. 'Yes, I'd like to. That would be great. Very kind of you. I'll tell the others in the morning.'
Charles nodded. 'In that case we can talk on the journey.'
Julie thought it an odd comment, the way he put it, but when she joined the girls on the mats in the bilek she had no trouble sleeping.
David was surprised by her decision to leave suddenly. He said that he was concerned for her welfare and wellbeing, and was worried about her going back to Kuching with Charles. But Julie thought that he was just miffed that she was taking off.
'Charles seems very competent and Ngali is taking us. I'm keen to get back and spend more time in Kuching. I'd like to meet up with Angie again. This has been a wonderful experience and I can't thank you enough for bringing me along, but you have your work to do and I don't want to get in the way. We'll catch up again,' she said vaguely.
'I feel responsible for you, that's all,' he said. 'I promised your mother ...'
'David! I'm a grown woman and while I mightn't be as knowledgeable about the jungle as you, I'm perfectly safe with Charles. Now I'll just say goodbye to the others.'
Chitra explained the order of farewells and the appropriate expressions of thanks that Julie should say to the Iban, and by the time she had completed them all, the others had left on their field work. A small posse of children and some of the women followed her to the boat where Charles and Ngali were waiting for her.
With fewer people and little gear in the boat, the trip downriver was easier and smoother.
Apart from pointing out a few things of interest as the boat nosed through the cocoa-coloured water, Charles had little to say. But the return journey was as relaxing and as interesting as the trip upriver had been.
It wasn't until they'd got to the village near the old fort, thrown their belongings into Charles's old car, which was 'fully air-conditioned' when all the windows were wound down, and had a sweet kopi susu, the local coffee, at a little shop, that Charles took off his dark gla.s.ses and seemed to relax.
'So have you found this little adventure useful?' he asked.
'Interesting but for me it's not like I'm researching, filming or writing anything. I was just trying to get a sense of how things used to be. I feel very privileged.'
'How things were when your aunt visited the Iban?' he said.
'I suppose so. I don't imagine a lot has changed since then.'
'I spoke to my father and he thinks he knows about your aunt. She was married to a rich Chinese trader and came with him to Sarawak. Later she came by herself and stayed with some local people. I asked my father many questions but she didn't stay at our longhouse so he doesn't know very much. She stayed closer to the Kalimantan border. I gather she was also interested in the orangutans.'
'That's amazing,' said Julie. 'I wish I could ask Tuai James and Tuai Jimbun more questions.'
'I don't think they know any more. Have you been to the museum in Kuching?'
'Yes, the lady there was very helpful.'
'Mrs Ping,' said Charles.
'That's right.'
'If anyone can find out anything more, she will. Summum bonum. Hang on to the idea of good luck falling on you.'
'It seems to be,' said Julie.
Charles rose. 'We must go.'
When Julie walked into the Sarawak museum, Angie Ping looked up and smiled at her.
'The traveller returns from the jungle. Was it all right? I thought you'd be away longer.'
'I didn't want to hold up the team, they had work to do. So when there was a chance of a lift back with Charles, the grandson of the old headman, I grabbed it,' said Julie.
'Ah Charles, Tuai James's son, and Tuai Rumah Jimbun's grandson.'
'He did give me some exciting news on our way back. His father and grandfather remember my Great Aunt Bette.'
'That is exciting for you,' said Angie. She shuffled some books and papers on the counter. 'Here, I found this.' She handed Julie a small bound booklet with a faded photograph of an orangutan on the cover. Above it was the t.i.tle, In Peril the Lost World of the Orangutans In Peril the Lost World of the Orangutans, Bette Oldham.' Angie smiled. 'I've photocopied it for you. She sounds quite a woman, your aunt.'
Julie took the stapled, photocopied copy of her great aunt's booklet. 'This is amazing. I'll read it as soon as I can, and thank you so much for finding it.'
'I'm so glad I could help. Come along, I'll take you to my favourite place on the river for a coffee. It's called the Rajah Brooke's Cafe. More history,' laughed Angie as she closed the museum shop and hung a sign, 'Back in 15 mins' on the door.
7.
CURLED IN A DEEP rattan chair after a swim in the pool, the chick blinds lowered against the late afternoon sunlight, a gin and tonic in her hand, Julie felt relaxed and very at home. Shane, Peter and Martine, Shane's beautiful wife, were eager to hear about her trip upriver in Sarawak. rattan chair after a swim in the pool, the chick blinds lowered against the late afternoon sunlight, a gin and tonic in her hand, Julie felt relaxed and very at home. Shane, Peter and Martine, Shane's beautiful wife, were eager to hear about her trip upriver in Sarawak.
'I haven't been to a longhouse and when we went to see the orangutans, there weren't any,' said Martine in her musical French accent. 'I must try again. What do you think, Shane?'
'It was fascinating,' said Julie. 'I fell in love with the orangutans. They have the most wonderful personalities. And the Iban are lovely people. They might have been headhunters once, but they have a very polite and caring society. I can see why Great Aunt Bette was so intrigued with their culture.'
'We didn't expect you back so soon,' said Peter. 'We thought you'd be gone for at least a week with the research team.'
Julie s.h.i.+fted in her chair. 'Oh, well, they had work to do and the living conditions were very primitive.'