Volume I Part 9 (1/2)
In the afternoon I rode out with the lord provost to see the cathedral.
The lord provost answers to the lord mayor in England. His t.i.tle and office in both countries continue only a year, except in cases of reelection.
As I saw the way to the cathedral blocked up by a throng of people, who had come out to see me, I could not help saying, ”What went ye out for to see? a reed shaken with the wind?” In fact, I was so worn out, that I could hardly walk through the building.
It is in this cathedral that part of the scene of Rob Roy is laid. This was my first experience in cathedrals. It was a new thing to me altogether, and as I walked along under the old b.u.t.tresses and battlements without, and looked into the bewildering labyrinths of architecture within, I saw that, with silence and solitude to help the impression, the old building might become a strong part of one's inner life. A grave yard crowded with flat stones lies all around it. A deep ravine separates it from another cemetery on an opposite eminence, rustling with dark pines. A little brook murmurs with its slender voice between.
On this opposite eminence the statue of John Knox, grim and strong, stands with its arm uplifted, as if shaking his fist at the old cathedral which in life he vainly endeavored to battle down.
Knox was very different from Luther, in that he had no conservative element in him, but warred equally against accessories and essentials.
At the time when the churches of Scotland were being pulled down in a general iconoclastic crusade, the tradesmen of Glasgow stood for the defence of their cathedral, and forced the reformers to content themselves with having the idolatrous images of saints pulled down from their niches and thrown into the brook, while, as Andrew Fairservice hath it, ”The auld kirk stood as crouse as a cat when the fleas are caimed aff her, and a' body was alike pleased.”
We went all through the cathedral, which is fitted up as a Protestant place of wors.h.i.+p, and has a simple and ma.s.sive grandeur about it. In fact, to quote again from our friend Andrew, we could truly say, ”Ah, it's a brave kirk, nane o' yere whig-malceries, and curliewurlies, and opensteek hems about it--a' solid, weel-jointed mason wark, that will stand as lang as the warld, keep hands and gun-powther aff it.”
I was disappointed in one thing: the painted gla.s.s, if there has ever been any, is almost all gone, and the glare of light through the immense windows is altogether too great, revealing many defects and rudenesses in the architecture, which would have quite another appearance in the colored rays through painted windows--an emblem, perhaps, of the cold, definite, intellectual rationalism, which has taken the place of the many-colored, gorgeous mysticism of former times.
After having been over the church, we requested, out of respect to Baillie Nicol Jarvie's memory, to be driven through the Saut Market. I, however, was so thoroughly tired that I cannot remember any thing about it.
I will say, by the way, that I have found out since, that nothing is so utterly hazardous to a person's strength as looking at cathedrals. The strain upon the head and eyes in looking up through these immense arches, and then the sepulchral chill which abides from generation to generation in them, their great extent, and the variety which tempts you to fatigue which you are not at all aware of, have overcome, as I was told, many before me.
Mr. S. and C----, however, made amends, by their great activity and zeal, for all that I could not do, and I was pleased to understand from them, that part of the old Tolbooth, where Rob Roy and the baillie had their rencontre, was standing safe and sound, with stuff enough in it for half a dozen more stories, if any body could be found to write them.
And Mr. S. insisted upon it, that I should not omit to notify you of this circ.u.mstance.
Well, in consequence of all this, the next morning I was so ill as to need a physician, unable to see any one that called, or to hear any of the letters. I pa.s.sed most of the day in bed, but in the evening I had to get up, as I had engaged to drink tea with two thousand people. Our kind friends Dr. and Mrs. Wardlaw came after us, and Mr. S. and I went in the carriage with them.
Dr. Wardlaw is a venerable-looking old man; we both thought we saw a striking resemblance in him to our friend Dr. Woods, of Andover. He is still quite active in body and mind, and officiates to his congregation with great acceptance. I fear, however, that he is in ill health, for I noticed, as we were pa.s.sing along to church, that he frequently laid his hand upon his heart, and seemed in pain. He said he hoped he should be able to get through the evening, but that when he was not well, excitement was apt to bring on a spasm about the heart; but with it all he seemed so cheerful, lively, and benignant, that I could not but feel my affections drawn towards him. Mrs. Wardlaw is a gentle, motherly woman, and it was a great comfort to have her with me on such an occasion.
Our carriage stopped at last at the place. I have a dim remembrance of a way being made for us through a great crowd all round the house, and of going with Mrs. Wardlaw up into a dressing room, where I met and shook hands with many friendly people. Then we pa.s.sed into a gallery, where a seat was reserved for our party, directly in front of the audience. Our friend Baillie Paton presided. Mrs. Wardlaw and I sat together, and around us many friends, chiefly ministers of the different churches, the ladies and gentlemen of the Glasgow Antislavery Society, and others.
I told you it was a tea party; but the arrangements were altogether different from any I had ever seen. There were narrow tables stretched up and down the whole extent of the great hall, and every person had an appointed seat. These tables were set out with cups and saucers, cakes, biscuit, &c., and when the proper time came, attendants pa.s.sed along serving tea. The arrangements were so accurate and methodical that the whole mult.i.tude actually took tea together, without the least apparent inconvenience or disturbance.
There was a gentle, subdued murmur of conversation all over the house, the sociable clinking of teacups and teaspoons, while the entertainment was going on. It seemed to me such an odd idea, I could not help wondering what sort of a teapot that must be, in which all this tea for two thousand people was made. Truly, as Hadji Baba says, I think they must have had the ”father of all teakettles” to boil it in. I could not help wondering if old mother Scotland had put two thousand teaspoonfuls of tea for the company, and one for the teapot, as is our good Yankee custom.
We had quite a sociable time up in our gallery. Our tea table stretched quite across the gallery, and we drank tea ”in sight of all the people.”
By _we_, I mean a great number of ministers and their wives, and ladies of the Antislavery Society, besides our party, and the friends whom I have mentioned before. All seemed to be enjoying themselves.
After tea they sang a few verses of the seventy-second psalm in the old Scotch version.
”The people's poor ones he shall judge, The needy's children save; And those shall he in pieces break, Who them oppressed have.
For he the needy shall preserve, When he to him doth call; The poor, also, and him that hath No help of man at all.
Both from deceit and violence Their soul he shall set free; And in his sight right precious And dear their blood shall be.
Now blessed be the Lord, our G.o.d, The G.o.d of Israel, For he alone doth wondrous works, In glory that excel.
And blessed be his glorious name To all eternity; The whole earth let his glory fill: Amen; so let it be.”
When I heard the united sound of all the voices, giving force to these simple and pathetic words, I thought I could see something of the reason why that rude old translation still holds its place in Scotland.