Part 8 (1/2)

The church itself is most interesting, and was at one time very formidable also. Surrounded by a high wall pierced with loopholes in a double row, lies the graveyard, which is only a narrow strip between the ramparts and the church, the body of which lies between two towers.

Under the higher of these, facing north, and built for defence with loopholes and embrasures, is one of the church doors, which leads to the high altar steps in a direct line from the entrance into the churchyard. Further to the right, but also facing north, is the most remarkable entrance, the inscriptions on the arch dating from the 12th century. On the extreme right is a door leading into the chapel, built in the 16th century, and dedicated to St. Roch. We found the inside interesting, without possessing any very striking features.

[Ill.u.s.tration]

The effect from the main gallery is perhaps best, and the smaller ones running along the sides have a weird and aged appearance. Near the entrance to the church, low down, is shown what was once the door for that wretched race of beings, the ”Cagots.”

[Footnote: We found it difficult to obtain any reliable information about these creatures. They seem to have led an existence like the lepers in Palestine, being avoided and despised by the inhabitants generally, and they appear to have been both diminutive and ugly.(See St. Savin, p. 73).]

The Chapelle de St. Roch, which we pa.s.sed into from the gallery in the main building, is the most striking of the two. The gallery and stairs were in a very shaky condition, and two candle-stands near the latter seemed to have been in their prime many generations ago. The vaulted roof, with the curious wooden groins, and the ancient _benitier_ near the door, are worthy of inspection. Without scrambling up the tower to the ”Pyrenean Museum,” but not forgetting to examine the old bell-tower and its bells facing west, we walked down to the left and joined the main road.

The ancient Castle de Sainte Marie--a very interesting and historic ruin--being in the vicinity, we followed the princ.i.p.al highway to the right, and pa.s.sing the much-recommended Hotel de l'Univers, were soon in the proximity of the chateau, which, standing alone on the summit of a pointed hill, was charmingly conspicuous. The path, after winding up the hill, leads to an entrance at the back, which is locked, the castle being now the property of the Precepteur of Luz, who, however, is always willing to accommodate strangers by allowing them to enter, as well as to inspect his garden, and the very striking image of the Virgin which he has had perched on the front walls. A great number of jackdaws have taken up their quarters in the old towers, and as one of them kept continually cawing as though anxious to be heard, we append what we made out to be the meaning of his chatter (it is said they never speak without _cause_), which we call

”THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE.”

”THE JACKDAW'S CAUSERIE.”

Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, and cawed again, As he circled out of the ancient tower: Caw, caw! and he circled thrice over the plain, And cawed once more as he reached his bower.

Caw, caw! I was born in this fortress old, As old as the hills, some folks might say; Five hundred centuries, caw, have rolled Since first it stood in the light of day.

Caw, caw! just to think I have built my nest Where the Black Prince ruled in such royal state.

Caw, caw! I wonder if ever he guess'd That this would in time be his castle's fate.

Caw, caw! but I never could quite perceive Why one tower is round and the other square.

If I'd been the prince, I can well believe I'd have made the architect build a pair.

Caw, caw! by-the-bye, there was old Coffite[1]

And Jean de Bourbon, that fought so well; And 'tis said that the prince underwent defeat-- At least my mother this tale would tell.

Caw, caw! they've finished with siege and fight; The castle's too old for that, of course; They go in for piety on the right,[2]

And we caw away till our voice grows hoa.r.s.e.

Caw, caw! I'm a Catholic right sincere, But somehow or other I cannot see Why they put up the Virgin's statue[3] here-- The place is as wrong as a place could be.

Caw, caw! I must see how my youngsters look In their quiet nursery 'mid the stones; Next week they'll be able ”to take their hook,”[4]

And--but there they go with their squeaking tones.

Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, the world is vain, But I love to dwell in my ancient tower.

Caw, caw!--why the wretches want feeding again, They've a ”diet of worms” nearly every hour.

And he cawed as he flew to the nursery bower.

[Footnote 1: It is said that Jean de Bourbon, Comte de Clermont, and Auger Coffite of Luz, took this castle in 1404.]

[Footnote 2: The author does not hold himself responsible for the jackdaw's slang, which refers to the statue.]

[Footnote 3: This statue is in honour of ”Notre Dame de Lourdes.”]