Part 17 (1/2)

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the remaining cup sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl. Stir in the vanilla extract, if using, and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions, stopping to add the olive oil about halfway through the freezing process. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

Sprinkle a few flakes of Maldon salt and drizzle a stripe or two of olive oil over each serving of gelato.

Sweet Corn Gelato MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS.

This is a great summer dessert when fresh corn is in season and you can't get enough of it, but it is essential that the corn that you use is sweet and full of flavor. The natural starch in the corn helps give the gelato its creamy texture.

3 ears sweet corn, preferably white, husked 3 cups milk, plus more if needed 1 cup heavy cream 1 cups sugar 8 large egg yolks 1 teaspoon salt Slice the kernels off the corncobs, reserving the cobs. Break each cob into 2 or 3 pieces.

Bring the milk to a simmer in a large saucepan. Add the corn kernels and cobs, remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 45 minutes.

Remove the corncobs from the milk and discard. Use an immersion blender to buzz the milk and corn to break up the kernels; or transfer the milk and corn to a regular blender, in batches, and blend to break up the kernels. Strain through a coa.r.s.e strainer into a bowl (discard the remaining corn mush). Measure the milk and add more if necessary to make 3 cups.

Combine the milk, cream, and 1 cups of the sugar in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring just to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks, the remaining cup sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in 1 cup of the hot milk mixture, then return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato is best served the day it is made.) (The gelato is best served the day it is made.)

Sorbetto Campari Grapefruit Sorbetto MAKES ABOUT 1 PINT PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO.

Use Ruby Red grapefruits for the best flavor and color. Since grapefruits do not always have the same natural sugar content, fine-tuning, using the egg test, may be necessary for the best taste and texture. Remember that liquor acts as an antifreeze, so don't be tempted to add more Campari.

2 cups fresh grapefruit juice (from about 4 medium grapefruits), or as necessary cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, or as necessary 1/3 cup Campari cup Campari Combine the grapefruit juice and sugar in a bowl and whisk together well. Do the egg test (see Gelato & Sorbetto) and add more juice or water or more sugar if necessary. Cover and refrigerate for about 3 hours, stirring occasionally to dissolve all the sugar, until thoroughly chilled.

Stir the Campari into the grapefruit juice. Freeze the sorbet in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The sorbet is best served the day it is made.) (The sorbet is best served the day it is made.)

Cantaloupe Sorbetto MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO 221 221.

Make sure to use very ripe melons for this recipe. Cantaloupes vary in their sugar content, so we definitely recommend doing the egg test for this sorbet.

3 cups strained cantaloupe juice (from 2 large ripe cantaloupes; see Note), or as necessary 1 cups Simple Syrup (recipe follows), or as necessary Juice of 1 lemon teaspoon salt Combine the cantaloupe juice, simple syrup, lemon juice, and salt in a bowl, stirring well. Do the egg test (see below) and add more juice or water or more sugar syrup, a little at a time, if necessary. Cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours, until thoroughly chilled.

Freeze the sorbet in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The sorbet is best served the day it is made.) (The sorbet is best served the day it is made.)