Part 9 (1/2)

Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the truffle b.u.t.ter and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Caviar SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt cup extra virgin olive oil 4 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 pound spaghetti Caviar-as much as you are willing to use (we like osetra from Russ & Daughters; see Sources) Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the oil and b.u.t.ter in another large pot and heat over medium heat until the b.u.t.ter is melted. Remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and cup of the reserved pasta water to the b.u.t.ter mixture and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl, garnish with the caviar, and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Gla.s.s Eels SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 1 pound spaghetti 8 ounces fresh or frozen gla.s.s eels, thawed if frozen (see Note) Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the garlic and saute until lightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving cup of the pasta water.

Add the gla.s.s eels to the garlic oil and heat over medium-high heat, stirring, until they are opaque. Add the pasta, tossing and stirring to mix well (add a splash of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Serve immediately.

Note: Gla.s.s eels are in season for a few weeks in the spring, when you should be able to find them in a local Chinatown.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.

Kosher salt 5 ounces sliced pancetta, cut into -inch-wide strips cup extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.ely ground black pepper 6 fresh large eggs 1 pound spaghetti cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus extra for serving cup grated pecorino romano Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the pancetta and oil in another large pot and cook over medium-high heat until the pancetta has rendered some of its fat and is lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Stir in the pepper and remove from the heat.

Separate the eggs, being careful to keep the yolks intact, putting the whites in a small bowl and the yolks in a shallow dish.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving 2 2/3 cup of the pasta water. cup of the pasta water.

Add the reserved pasta water to the pancetta and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the egg whites and cook, whisking furiously, until they are frothy but not set, about 1 minute. Add the pasta, stirring and tossing well to coat. Stir in the cheeses.

Divide the pasta among six bowls, making a nest in the center of each portion. Gently drop an egg yolk into each nest and serve immediately, advising your guests to stir the yolk into the pasta so it will cook. Pa.s.s additional grated Parmigiano on the side.

Spaghetti all'Amatriciana SERVES 6 PHOTO PASTA.