Part 28 (1/2)

[B] BETTWS-Y-COED. At this village, which contains scarcely a hundred houses, is the picturesque bridge of Pont-y-Pain, beneath which is a famous salmon leap; and the road leads into the luxuriant vale of Llanwrst, in the neighbourhood of which are many seats. The princ.i.p.al of these is Gwydir House, an ancient mansion of the Wynnes; and now an occasional residence of Lord Gwydir. Two miles northward is the village of Trefrew, remarkable chiefly for a saline spring, and the site of a royal palace, built by Llewelyn. Between two mountains, near this place are some capital mines, the produce of which are lead, calamine, mixed with iron, ochre, and pyrites. Bettws-y-Coed lies on the mail-coach road to Holyhead. From Cernioge Mawr, through this place to Ogwen Lake, a broad smooth, and well protected road has been made among the rocky precipices with which the mountainous country abounds. The village church contains an ancient but very perfect tomb of Gryffyd, grand nephew of Llewellyn, the last prince of Wales. This interesting monument is concealed rather awkwardly beneath one of the benches.

_Fairs_, May 15, and December 3.--_Mail_ arrives 6.30 afternoon; departs 6.0 morning.

[Sidenote: Gwydir House.]

[C] BEVERLEY. This important market town lies at the foot of the wolds, it was anciently called Dierwald: the wood of the Deiri; from its extensive forest. Its present appellation may be a corruption of Beaver ley; beavers having abounded in the neighbouring river, Hull. Its origin and early history were totally unknown, till the beginning of the eighth century, when St. John of Beverley founded a church and monastery, and died there. This inst.i.tution was several times destroyed by the Danes; and there is a pause in its history, till Athelstan granted to it many priviledges, and built a new college. Many archbishops of York were benefactors to the monastery, and expended large sums in beautifying the church. In the early part of the civil war, Charles I. had his quarters here; and subsequently the town was taken by the parliamentarians. It appears that Beverley derived its first and greatest importance from its connexion with the saint. In its present state, the town is extensive and pleasant. The entrance from Driffield, through an ancient gateway into a s.p.a.cious street of elegant houses, is particularly beautiful. Its market-place also being large and commodious, is a princ.i.p.al ornament.

The church of St. John, which is in excellent preservation, is a superb edifice, adorned at its west end with two lofty steeples. Within it is rich in relics of antiquity. Gisbon, describing it, says ”the minster here is a very fair and neat structure: the roof is an arch of stone. In it are several monuments of the Earls of Northumberland, who have added a little chapel to the choir; in the windows whereof are the pictures of several of that family, drawn in the gla.s.s. At the upper end of the choir, on the right side of the altar place, stands the freedstool, made of one entire stone, and said to have been removed from Scotland; with a well of water behind it. At the upper end of the body of the church, next the choir, hangs an ancient tablet, with the pictures of St. John and king Athelstan, and this distich:

'Als free make I thee, As heart can wish, or egh can see.'”

Hence, adds our author, the burgesses of Beverley pay no toll or custom in any port or town of England. The choir is paved with marble of four colours. Over the altar is a magnificent wooden arch supported by eight fluted Corinthian pillars. The east window now contains all the painted gla.s.s which could be collected from the others. The screen, between the choir and the nave, is Gothic, and is justly esteemed a princ.i.p.al ornament of the edifice. At the lower end of the body of the church stands a large font of agate stone. In 1664, a vault was discovered of free-stone, in which was a sheet of lead, containing the relics of St.

John, with an inscription, dated 1197, which imported that, the church having been destroyed by fire, the ashes had been for some time lost, but that at length they had been found and there deposited. They were contained in a small leaden box, and consisted of a few bones, six beads, some large nails, and three bra.s.s pins. The whole was piously replaced, with an appropriate inscription; and, in 1726, the spot was adorned with an arch of brick-work.--The church of St. Mary is also a large and handsome structure; and like the minster, was destroyed in 1528, by the fall of its steeple. It contains some monuments and inscriptions; but none of note.--Beverley is a corporate town, and is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and thirteen of the princ.i.p.al burgesses. The whole number of these last is about 1200; and many persons are induced to purchase their freedom, by the privileges and immunities which it confers: among these are extensive rights of pasture on four commons, near the town; and, as we have observed, liberation from all tolls throughout the kingdom. Besides its churches, Beverley has the following public edifices and charitable inst.i.tutions: the Hallgarth, a beautiful and s.p.a.cious hall, in which are held the sessions, and a register-office for deeds and wills; an elegant market cross, supported by eight columns; each one entire piece of free-stone; a common gaol, which was rebuilt thirty-five years since, with due attention to the suitable accommodation of its inmates; seven alms-houses with funds, for the erection of two more; a work-house, which cost 700; and finally, an excellent free-school, to the scholars of which are appropriated two fellows.h.i.+ps at St. John's Cambridge, six scholars.h.i.+ps, and three exhibitions. The trade of Beverley arises chiefly from the making of malt, oat-meal, and leather: formerly it was somewhat celebrated for clothing. The vicinity of the town, particularly towards the west, is rather pleasing; and commands several interesting prospects. At the distance of three miles, is the moated site of Lekingfield House, which was demolished, probably, about the end of the sixteenth century. The barbarous custom of baiting a bull on the day of the mayor being sworn into office, to the disgrace of the town, still continues. In the Grammar school were educated Bishops Allc.o.c.k, Fisher, and Green; and here was painted as early as 1509, the figure of a man on horseback, by 'Hugh Goes.' Beverley is remarkable as being the birth-place of the following eminent persons, viz.: Aluridus, an ancient historian, who died in 1129. Dr. John Allc.o.c.k, the founder of Jesus College, Oxford, who was the most celebrated divine, scholar, and architect of his time. In 1470, he was made a privy counsellor and emba.s.sador to the King of Castile. He was successively Bishop of Rochester, Worcester, and Ely, Lord High Chancellor of England, and lord President of Wales. In his capacity of an architect, few, if any, ever excelled him, and his correct judgment in this science procured him the appointment of Comptroller of the Royal Works. He founded the Grammar School of Kingston upon Hull, and built a chapel, on the south side of the church, where his parents were buried. The beautiful hall of the episcopal palace of Ely was erected from his design and at his expense.

He very elegantly enlarged the parish church of Westbury, and built that sumptuous and beautiful chapel in the Presbytery of Ely Cathedral, where he was buried, and which remains at the present day, a monument of his correct judgment; but all these fall into shadow, when compared with that gorgeous and exquisite ma.s.s of enrichment, Henry the Seventh's Chapel at Westminster; of which, if he was not the immediate designer, he was at least the able manager and superintendant of its erection--a monument of pious munificence that will be endeared to every lover of art, when the living temple of its projector is forgotten. He died at his castle of Wisbeach, October 1, 1500.--John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, was born here in 1459. His father was so eminent a scholar and divine, that Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., although unknown to him, sent for him, and appointed him her domestic chaplain; and to his councils posterity are mainly indebted for those magnificent foundations, St. John's and Christ's College at Cambridge.

This amiable bishop, with all his virtues, could not preserve himself from the malignity of ”the worst of England's monarchs”--Henry VIII.; and under the pretence of being inimical to the marriage of the king with Ann Bolyen, he was thrown into prison, and most barbarously treated; here he continued for nearly a year, and might have been left to die of ill treatment and old age, had it not been for the unseasonable mark of respect paid him by Pope Paul III., who created him, May 15, 1535, Cardinal Priest of St. Vitalis. Henry forbade the hat to be brought into England, and sent Lord Cromwell to examine the Bishop about the affair. ”My Lord of Rochester,” (says Cromwell) ”what would you say if the Pope should send you a Cardinal's hat,” upon which the Bishop replied, ”Sir, I know myself to be so far unworthy of such dignity that I think of nothing less; but if any thing should happen a.s.sure yourself that I should improve that favour to the best advantage that I could, by a.s.sisting the Holy Catholic Church of Christ, and in that respect I would receive it upon my knees.” When the answer was brought, the king said in a great pa.s.sion, ”yea! is he yet so l.u.s.ty--well, let the Pope send him a hat when he will--mother of G.o.d! he shall wear it on his shoulders then, for I will leave him never a head to set it on.” His ruin being now determined, but hardly daring to take his life upon such trivial grounds, the king sent that most fawning and contemptible creature, Sir Richard Rich, Solicitor-General, to draw from him something that might convict him. This wiley wretch gradually drew from him a private opinion concerning the king's supremacy, telling the Bishop at the same time, that it was a scruple of the King's conscience that made him ask for it. Thus entrapped he was not allowed to make a defence, but was tried by a bill of attainder for high treason, and executed on the 22d of the same month, and his head placed on London bridge. Thus perished this good, but ill-fated prelate, in the 77th year of his age, which dreadful tragedy, as Bishop Burnet observes, ”Has left one of the greatest blots upon this kingdom's proceedings.”--The Rev.

John Green was also a native of this place, he was born in 1706, educated at the Grammar School here, and finished his university education at St. John's College, Cambridge, where he became master of arts; he afterwards engaged himself as usher of a school at Litchfield, where he became acquainted with Dr. Johnson, and Mr. Garrick. In 1730, he was elected a fellow of St. John's College, and soon afterwards the Bishop procured for him the vicarage of Hingeston. In 1744, Charles, Duke of Somerset, and Chancellor of the University, made him his domestic chaplain. In June 1750, he was elected master of Bennet College, and in 1756, Dean of Lincoln, then Vice-chancellor of the University of Cambridge; and at last, through the influence of his patron, the Duke of Newcastle, preferred to the See of Lincoln. He was the friend and colleague of Archbishop Secker, who had always a just esteem for his virtues and abilities. After the death of Lord Willoughby, of Parham, in 1765, the literary meetings of the Royal Society used to be held in his lords.h.i.+p's house, as one of its most accomplished members. In June 1761, he exerted his problematical talents in two letters ”On the Principles and Practice of the Methodists,” which he addressed to the Rev. Mr. Berridge and Mr. Whitfield; and to the honour of this prelate be it spoken, that when the Bill for the Relief of the Dissenters, was brought before the House of Lords, in May 1772, and lost upon a division of 102 to 27, he was the only member of the clerical brotherhood, who voted in its favour. He died suddenly at Bath, April 25, 1779. This elegant scholar was one of the writers of the celebrated ”Athenian Letters,” published by the Earl of Hardwick, in 1798, 2 vols. 4to. Beverley returns two Members to Parliament. The 10 householders are about 507. The returning officer is the Mayor.

_Markets_, Wednesday and Sat.u.r.day.--_Fairs_, Thursday before Old Valentine; Holy Thursday; July 5; November 5, for horses and sheep; and every alternate Wednesday for horned cattle.--_Bankers_, Mach.e.l.l and Co.; draw on Glyn and Co.; Bower and Co., draw on Curries and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 10.45 morning; departs 6.0 afternoon.--_Inn_, Tiger.

[Sidenote: Its origin and early history.]

[Sidenote: Ancient superst.i.tions.]

[Sidenote: Public edifices.]

[Sidenote: Dr. John Allc.o.c.k born here.]

[Sidenote: Bishop Fisher born here.]

[Sidenote: His head placed on London-bridge.]

Map

Names of Places.

County.

Number of Miles From

+--+------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ 46

Beverley Park to

E.R. York

Beverley 2

Hull 7

15

Beverstone pa

Gloucester

Tetbury 3

M. Hampton 5

39

Bevington ham

Warwick

Alcester 4

Bitford 4

39

Bevington Wood ham

Warwick

... 4

... 5

9

Bewaldeth to

c.u.mberland

c.o.c.kermouth 7

Keswick 9

+--+------------------+----------+-------------+------------+

Dist.

Map

Names of Places.

Number of Miles From

Lond.

Population.

+--+------------------+------------------------+-----+------+ 46

Beverley Park to

Hornsea 12

181

15

Beverstone pa

Dursley 8

102

174

39

Bevington ham

Stratford 12

106

39

Bevington Wood ham

... 13

107

9

Bewaldeth to

Wighton 10

299

172

+--+------------------+------------------------+-----+------+

Map

Names of Places.

County.

Number of Miles From

+--+-----------------+----------+-----------+-----------+ 9

Bewcastle[A] pa

c.u.mberland

Brampton 10

Longtown 14

+--+-----------------+----------+-----------+-----------+

Dist.

Map

Names of Places.

Number of Miles From

Lond.

Population.

+--+-----------------+----------------------+-----+-----+ 9

Bewcastle[A] pa

Haltwhistle 15

300

1336

+--+-----------------+----------------------+-----------+

[A] BEWCASTLE is supposed to have been a Roman station, and garrisoned by part of the Legio Secunda Augusta, as a security to the workmen who were employed in erecting the famous wall, it is situated in the midst of a wild and unfrequented district, in the Ward of Eskdale. Some vestiges of ancient buildings still remain, and numerous Roman coins and inscriptions have been discovered here. The present name of the village is reported to have been derived from Bueth, who was Lord of the Manor at the time of the Conquest, and is said to have repaired a Roman castle here, and called it after his own name. The castle was of a square form, each front about twenty-nine yards in length: it is now in ruins: the south side, of which there are most remains, is nearly fourteen yards high. This structure was destroyed by the parliamentary forces in the year 1641. It seems to have been a dark gloomy fortress. Gils Bueth, the son of Bueth, mentioned above, was treacherously killed by Robert De Vallibus, at a meeting which had been held for friendly purposes. His possessions then fell to the crown, and were bestowed by Henry II. on the last Hubert de Vallibus, whose daughter conveyed them to the family of the Multons by marriage. The estates afterwards pa.s.sed through several hands. Bewcastle in the fifth of Charles I. was granted to Sir Robert Graham, in whose family it remains. Upon one occasion the captain of Bewcastle is said to have made an incursion into Scotland, in which he was defeated and forced to fly. Watt Tinlinn, a celebrated retainer of the Buccleuch family, who held for his border service a small tower on the frontiers of Liddisdale, pursued him. Watt Tinlinn was, by profession, a cobbler, but by inclination and practice an archer, and warrior. He closely followed the fugitive through a dangerous mora.s.s: the captain, however, gained the firm ground; and seeing Tinlinn dismounted, and floundering in the bog, used these words of insult: ”Sutor Watt, ye cannot sew your boots: the heels _risp_, and the seams _rive_.” ”If I cannot sew,” retorted Tinlinn, discharging a shaft, which nailed the captain's thigh to his saddle. ”If I cannot sew, I can yerk.”

Bewcastle Church is a small edifice, standing on a rising ground near the castle, a fosse surrounding them both. In the churchyard is a celebrated obelisk, which has for many years attracted the attention of the curious. Its height is fourteen feet, two inches: its breadth, on the bottom of the broadest side, is one foot ten: on the top was originally a cross, which is supposed to have been abolished in some ebullition of popular enthusiasm. Various sculptured ornaments appear on its different sides, executed with much fancy, together with an illegible Roman inscription, and some human figures. On the wastes of Bewcastle parish, several thousands of sheep and black cattle are annually fed. The inhabitants of the parish live chiefly in single and scattered houses; their religious opinions are mostly conformable to the doctrines of the church of England; but about thirty years ago a meeting house was built for a small congregation of Presbyterians. In this parish, a fine is paid of four years, ancient rent, on change of the Lord of the Manor by death: or of the tenants either by death or alienation: besides various customary works and carriages; and for a heriot, the best beast of which the tenant may die possessed, except the riding-horse kept for the lord's service. Bewcastle parish has two schools supported by subscription, the masters of which have a salary of about ten pounds a year, and the privilege of a whittle-gate. The custom of whittle-gate was formerly much observed in this and the neighbouring counties: it consists in the master going to all the abodes of his scholars in rotation, and being supplied with victuals by the parents or friends.

[Sidenote: Anecdote of Watt Tinlinn.]

[Sidenote: Ancient fine]

Map

Names of Places.

County.

Number of Miles From

+--+---------------------+---------+-----------+-------------+ 42

Bewdley[A] bo. & m.t.

Worcester

Ludlow 21

Kiddermin 3

44

Bewerley to

W.R. York

Ripley 8

Boro'bridge 8

29

Bewick, New to

Northumb.

Wooler 8

Belford 10

29

Bewick, Old to

Northumb

... 8

... 9

46

Bewholm to

E.R. York

Beverley 12

Hornsea 5

38

Bexhill pa

Suss.e.x

Hastings 6

Battle 6

12

Bexington, West

Dorset

Bridport 7

Abbotsbury 4

+--+---------------------+---------+-----------+-------------+

Dist.

Map

Names of Places.

Number of Miles From

Lond.

Population.

+--+---------------------+---------------------+-----+-------+ 42

Bewdley[A] bo. & m.t.

Worcester 15

129

3908