Part 20 (1/2)

3. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

4. Sprinkle the pork all over with salt and rub with the lime juice. Place the b.u.t.t in a small baking pan (about 9 9 inches). There should only be 1 to 2 inches of s.p.a.ce between the pork and the sides of the pan. (A small pan will help prevent the water and acc.u.mulated pork juices from simply boiling away. You want the pork to braise, not dry-roast.) Add inch of water and the quartered lime to the pan. Cover with foil, crimping the edges over the sides of the pan to form a tight seal. Cook for 2 hours. Sprinkle the pork all over with salt and rub with the lime juice. Place the b.u.t.t in a small baking pan (about 9 9 inches). There should only be 1 to 2 inches of s.p.a.ce between the pork and the sides of the pan. (A small pan will help prevent the water and acc.u.mulated pork juices from simply boiling away. You want the pork to braise, not dry-roast.) Add inch of water and the quartered lime to the pan. Cover with foil, crimping the edges over the sides of the pan to form a tight seal. Cook for 2 hours.

5. Remove the pan from the oven. Carefully peel back the foil and flip the pork. Set aside 1 tablespoon of the extra spice rub, and sprinkle the remainder over the pork. Sprinkle with salt. Replace the foil, return the pork to the oven, and braise for 2 more hours, or until the meat is very tender and falls apart when prodded with a fork. Remove from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 450F. Remove the pan from the oven. Carefully peel back the foil and flip the pork. Set aside 1 tablespoon of the extra spice rub, and sprinkle the remainder over the pork. Sprinkle with salt. Replace the foil, return the pork to the oven, and braise for 2 more hours, or until the meat is very tender and falls apart when prodded with a fork. Remove from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 450F.

6. Remove the pork from the pan. Discard the limes. Pour the braising juices into a nonreactive container and skim off the fat. You should have about 1 cup braising juices; if you have less, make up the difference with chicken stock. Refrigerate the juices until needed. Remove the pork from the pan. Discard the limes. Pour the braising juices into a nonreactive container and skim off the fat. You should have about 1 cup braising juices; if you have less, make up the difference with chicken stock. Refrigerate the juices until needed.

7. Return the pork to the pan and roast, uncovered, until the exterior is a crispy brown, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool, then cut into 1-inch slices. Return the pork to the pan and roast, uncovered, until the exterior is a crispy brown, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool, then cut into 1-inch slices.

FOR THE BEANS.

8. Put the beans in a large pot, cover with cold water by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and allow to sit for 1 hour. Drain. Put the beans in a large pot, cover with cold water by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and allow to sit for 1 hour. Drain.

9. While the beans are soaking, toast the c.u.min and coriander seeds in a dry pan over low heat until they start to pop and are aromatic. Remove from the heat and set aside. While the beans are soaking, toast the c.u.min and coriander seeds in a dry pan over low heat until they start to pop and are aromatic. Remove from the heat and set aside.

10. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to brown. Add the garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the beans, tomatoes, jalapenos, c.u.min and coriander seeds, and oregano. Add enough water to cover the beans by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the beans are tender, about 1 hours. Make sure the water level stays inch above the beans until the end of the cooking time nears. Stir regularly. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until it begins to brown. Add the garlic and cook for 3 minutes. Add the beans, tomatoes, jalapenos, c.u.min and coriander seeds, and oregano. Add enough water to cover the beans by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the beans are tender, about 1 hours. Make sure the water level stays inch above the beans until the end of the cooking time nears. Stir regularly.

11. By the time the beans have finished cooking, the water should be almost all absorbed. Add the rum and cook for 10 minutes. Season with salt and allow the beans to cool in their cooking liquid. When cool, drain (there won't be much liquid), taste, and add more salt if necessary. Season with black pepper, then add the lime juice and cilantro. By the time the beans have finished cooking, the water should be almost all absorbed. Add the rum and cook for 10 minutes. Season with salt and allow the beans to cool in their cooking liquid. When cool, drain (there won't be much liquid), taste, and add more salt if necessary. Season with black pepper, then add the lime juice and cilantro.

FOR THE GREENS.

12. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Drop the greens into the boiling water. If using mustard greens, cook for 3 minutes; if using broccoli rabe, cook for 4 minutes. Drain, plunge the greens into the ice water to stop the cooking, and drain again. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Drop the greens into the boiling water. If using mustard greens, cook for 3 minutes; if using broccoli rabe, cook for 4 minutes. Drain, plunge the greens into the ice water to stop the cooking, and drain again.

13. Combine the oil and garlic in a small saute pan over medium heat and cook until the garlic becomes aromatic, about a minute. Add the greens and toss to coat with the garlic and oil. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat. Combine the oil and garlic in a small saute pan over medium heat and cook until the garlic becomes aromatic, about a minute. Add the greens and toss to coat with the garlic and oil. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.

TO a.s.sEMBLE THE DISH.

14. Preheat the oven to 450F. Preheat the oven to 450F.

15. Spread the rice in the bottom of a 3-quart clay pot or ca.s.serole. Spoon the beans over the rice, then top with the greens. Make a final layer of the sliced pork. Pour to 1 cup of the reserved braising juices over everything. The object is to use enough liquid to moisten everything and provide a firmer-than-soupy consistency without everything literally swimming in braising juices. Sprinkle the pork with salt and the reserved tablespoon of spice rub. Spread the rice in the bottom of a 3-quart clay pot or ca.s.serole. Spoon the beans over the rice, then top with the greens. Make a final layer of the sliced pork. Pour to 1 cup of the reserved braising juices over everything. The object is to use enough liquid to moisten everything and provide a firmer-than-soupy consistency without everything literally swimming in braising juices. Sprinkle the pork with salt and the reserved tablespoon of spice rub.

16. Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes, then uncover and continue baking until heated through and bubbling, another 20 to 30 minutes. Cover with foil and bake for 15 minutes, then uncover and continue baking until heated through and bubbling, another 20 to 30 minutes.

17. To serve, top with the salsa, lime wedges, and cilantro sprigs. To serve, top with the salsa, lime wedges, and cilantro sprigs.

[image]Fresh Tomato Salsa[image]

MAKES 1 CUP.

pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into -inch dice cup finely diced red onion 1 garlic clove, minced 1 serrano or jalapeno pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 to 3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice Combine the tomato, onion, garlic, and chopped pepper. Add the cilantro to taste. Season with salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon of lime juice. Taste, adding more lime juice if you like. Cover and refrigerate at least 3 hours. Refrigerated fresh salsa will keep for 24 hours.

Desserts This is a savory cook's-not a pastry cook's-collection of desserts. Savory cooking is flexible; you can often compensate for mistakes without having to jettison all of your previous efforts. Sauces are recouped, soups redeemed, life sails on. Fine pastry, on the other hand, is a pitiless art, akin to high-alt.i.tude mountaineering, where a single misstep can end the project. Understandably, the most ardent pastry chefs are control freaks. Impressive and satisfying as handmade mille-feuille with a spun sugar garnish may be in a restaurant, when I'm cooking at home, I'm looking for ease of preparation as much as great flavor.

I've sifted through menus from Michela's and Rialto, as well as family favorites, for desserts in the spirit of my own savory cooking-that is, they're all a little bit forgiving. Nevertheless, the recipes encompa.s.s a broad range of circ.u.mstances, with some appropriate for formal dinner parties, and others making happy conclusions to family meals and even tagging along on picnics.

The chapter opens with a trio of sweet fruit endings: Grilled Pineapple with Rum, Lime-Ginger Syrup, and Ice Cream; Fresh Fruit with Balsamic Pepper Syrup; and Roasted Pears with 5-Spice Zabaglione. All three are easy, and once you've tasted grilled pineapple, it becomes hard not to have a summer backyard dinner without considering it as the dessert of choice.

The elegant, formal appearance of Chocolate Espresso Torta and Hot Chocolate Creams from Provence belie their straightforward preparation. Both are rich, intensely chocolate treats with distinctly different characters. The torta offers a dense, silken response to lovers of unadulterated dark chocolate; the hot chocolate creams hover somewhere between cake and souffle, served comfortingly warm.

Individual Peppered Peach Tarts with Ginger-Caramel Sauce introduce a section of simple pastries requiring only the most basic skills. Given my druthers, I generally choose tarts over any other dessert. I love the textural contrast of crust, custard, and caramelized fruit. If you can make a basic pastry crust and simple custard, you're capable of dozens of different desserts. In addition to several tarts (my favorite is the Mascarpone Fig), the pastry section includes fruit and nut b.u.t.ter cakes and a couple of desserts that make fine accompaniments to picnics-Ginger Shortbread and Sweet Grape Focaccia.

The desserts conclude with my own family's comfort food favorites, Crema Spessa, the Italian version of baked custard, and Super-Creamy Rice Pudding with Pa.s.sion Fruit Sauce. I'm a peasant at heart, and these are about as simple and rustic as you can get.

Grilled Pineapple with Rum, Lime-Ginger Syrup, and Ice Cream Pineapple's firm texture and high sugar content make it an ideal candidate for the grill. Be sure to buy a pineapple that is already ripe-the fruit does a poor job of ripening on the kitchen counter. The spiced syrup involves little more challenge than a.s.sembling the ingredients and heating them together. The result is an elegant dessert with almost no effort. sugar content make it an ideal candidate for the grill. Be sure to buy a pineapple that is already ripe-the fruit does a poor job of ripening on the kitchen counter. The spiced syrup involves little more challenge than a.s.sembling the ingredients and heating them together. The result is an elegant dessert with almost no effort.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

SYRUP.

1 cup water cup sugar Grated zest and juice of 1 lime Grated zest of 1 orange 2 bay leaves teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger vanilla bean, split lengthwise 2 star anise 1 ripe pineapple 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil or other mild-tasting vegetable oil cup dark rum 4 scoops rum, vanilla, or coconut ice cream 2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves cut into very thin strips, for garnish 1. Combine all the syrup ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove the vanilla bean and allow it to cool. When cool enough to handle, sc.r.a.pe the seeds into the syrup. Discard the pod or save for another use. Combine all the syrup ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove the vanilla bean and allow it to cool. When cool enough to handle, sc.r.a.pe the seeds into the syrup. Discard the pod or save for another use.

2. Prepare a medium fire in a grill. (A grill is medium when you can hold your hand close to the cooking surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away.) Prepare a medium fire in a grill. (A grill is medium when you can hold your hand close to the cooking surface for a count of 4 before having to pull it away.) 3. Chop off the pineapple flower (the sprout of spiky leaves) and the top inch or so of the fruit. Cut a slice off the bottom of the pineapple so it will stand upright. Slice off the skin in long vertical strips. If there are any ”eyes” remaining, cut them out with a paring knife or potato peeler. If you have a pineapple corer, use it to remove the core, then lay the fruit on its side and cut eight -inch-thick slices. If you don't have a corer, just turn the pineapple on its side and cut the 8 slices, then use a paring knife or cookie cutter to remove the woody core at the center of each slice. (Reserve any remaining pineapple for another use.) Chop off the pineapple flower (the sprout of spiky leaves) and the top inch or so of the fruit. Cut a slice off the bottom of the pineapple so it will stand upright. Slice off the skin in long vertical strips. If there are any ”eyes” remaining, cut them out with a paring knife or potato peeler. If you have a pineapple corer, use it to remove the core, then lay the fruit on its side and cut eight -inch-thick slices. If you don't have a corer, just turn the pineapple on its side and cut the 8 slices, then use a paring knife or cookie cutter to remove the woody core at the center of each slice. (Reserve any remaining pineapple for another use.) 4. Brush the pineapple rings with the oil and grill on both sides until lightly charred, about 5 minutes per side. Brush the pineapple rings with the oil and grill on both sides until lightly charred, about 5 minutes per side.

5. Arrange 2 pineapple rings on each plate. Pour a tablespoon of rum over each set of rings, then drizzle with the spiced syrup. Add a scoop of ice cream to each plate. Sprinkle with the strips of mint and serve. Arrange 2 pineapple rings on each plate. Pour a tablespoon of rum over each set of rings, then drizzle with the spiced syrup. Add a scoop of ice cream to each plate. Sprinkle with the strips of mint and serve.

Fresh Fruit with Balsamic Pepper Syrup Where would we be without balsamic vinegar? I can still remember my teenage incredulity when a cooking teacher prefaced my first taste with the explanation that it was often served over strawberries. All it took was one taste of a fine ten-year-old sample to erase my skepticism. This dish should really be prepared only a couple of hours before serving. Raspberries and strawberries are particularly fragile and they will turn mushy if cut and allowed to sit in the syrup too far ahead. balsamic vinegar? I can still remember my teenage incredulity when a cooking teacher prefaced my first taste with the explanation that it was often served over strawberries. All it took was one taste of a fine ten-year-old sample to erase my skepticism. This dish should really be prepared only a couple of hours before serving. Raspberries and strawberries are particularly fragile and they will turn mushy if cut and allowed to sit in the syrup too far ahead.

Ordinarily people jettison macerated fruit after a night in the refrigerator because its texture deteriorates, but we love smoothies for breakfast, especially with whole-milk Greek yogurt. So I always save these leftovers-somebody will puree them into breakfast the next day.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar cup packed brown sugar 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (use a little less if you prefer a milder dish) 2 bananas 1 pint fresh strawberries, washed, hulled, and halved lengthwise 1 pint fresh raspberries 1. Mix the vinegar, brown sugar, and pepper together in a medium bowl. Mix the vinegar, brown sugar, and pepper together in a medium bowl.

2. Peel the bananas and cut into -inch-thick slices. Add all the fruit to the bowl with the syrup and toss gently to coat. Let sit for 15 minutes, then serve. Peel the bananas and cut into -inch-thick slices. Add all the fruit to the bowl with the syrup and toss gently to coat. Let sit for 15 minutes, then serve.

Roasted Pears with 5-Spice Zabaglione Zabaglione, a delightful whipped froth of egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala, can be served as a sauce or a dessert in its own right. Traditional recipes call for it to be served warm, right after it's made, but I sometimes like to thicken it a bit by adding some cream and chilling it. of egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala, can be served as a sauce or a dessert in its own right. Traditional recipes call for it to be served warm, right after it's made, but I sometimes like to thicken it a bit by adding some cream and chilling it.

This particular dessert evolved out of my experience writing Sunday night menus with Gordon Hammersley at his restaurant, Hammersley's Bistro. On Sunday nights, we served a special abbreviated menu, so desserts had to be quick, easy, and flavorful; roasted fruit with zabaglione was ideal. Gordon is a big fan of Chinese 5-spice powder-cinnamon, cloves, fennel seed, star anise, and Szechwan peppercorns-and I happen to like incorporating savory ingredients into sweet desserts. The result is both sensuous and exotic.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS.

ZABAGLIONE.