Part 15 (2/2)

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

8 beef short ribs (6 ounces each) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour for dusting 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 ounces smoked bacon, cut into 1x-inch lardons 2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice 16 garlic cloves, smashed 1 tablespoon tomato paste 2 cups dry red wine cup brandy 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves 1 teaspoon celery seeds 2 cinnamon sticks 5 whole cloves 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth cup Kalamata olives, pitted 18 dried apricot halves 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

2. Season the ribs with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until most of the fat is rendered, then remove and set aside. Season the ribs with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and cook until most of the fat is rendered, then remove and set aside.

3. Add as many ribs as can fit in a single layer to the pan. You will need to cook them in batches. Sear the ribs on both sides until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside. Repeat with the remaining ribs. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan. Add as many ribs as can fit in a single layer to the pan. You will need to cook them in batches. Sear the ribs on both sides until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside. Repeat with the remaining ribs. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pan.

4. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrots and onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 4 more minutes. Add the red wine and brandy and reduce by half, about 6 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add the carrots and onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until the vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 4 more minutes. Add the red wine and brandy and reduce by half, about 6 minutes.

5. Return the ribs and bacon to the pot. Add the remaining ingredients except the apricots and parsley and bring to a boil. The liquid should come one-third of the way up the ribs-if not, add some water. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, turn off the heat and cover the ribs tightly with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan. Return the ribs and bacon to the pot. Add the remaining ingredients except the apricots and parsley and bring to a boil. The liquid should come one-third of the way up the ribs-if not, add some water. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, turn off the heat and cover the ribs tightly with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan.

6. Braise the ribs in the oven for 2 hours, turning them every 30 minutes so they cook evenly. Add water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the ribs. Braise the ribs in the oven for 2 hours, turning them every 30 minutes so they cook evenly. Add water as necessary to keep the braising juice one-third of the way up the ribs.

7. After 2 hours, add the apricots and cook for an additional 30 minutes. The meat should be almost falling off the bones. Transfer the short ribs to a large platter. Spoon the vegetables, olives, and apricots over them. Keep warm. After 2 hours, add the apricots and cook for an additional 30 minutes. The meat should be almost falling off the bones. Transfer the short ribs to a large platter. Spoon the vegetables, olives, and apricots over them. Keep warm.

8. Strain the braising juices into a clear gla.s.s container and siphon or skim off the fat. The braising juices may already be the consistency of a sauce. If not, return them to the pan and boil for a few minutes to thicken. If you prefer an absolutely smooth sauce, strain out any remaining pieces of vegetable. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley. Pour the sauce over the ribs and serve immediately. Strain the braising juices into a clear gla.s.s container and siphon or skim off the fat. The braising juices may already be the consistency of a sauce. If not, return them to the pan and boil for a few minutes to thicken. If you prefer an absolutely smooth sauce, strain out any remaining pieces of vegetable. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and add the parsley. Pour the sauce over the ribs and serve immediately.

Pot Roast of Beef with Green Peppers and Pancetta Pot roast ought to be one of the great glories of anyone's home repertoire-once you know the rules, it's actually quite easy to produce a fork-tender masterpiece. Unfortunately, if you don't know the rules, it's easy to go wrong with either the texture or flavor. Pot roasts cook by braising. Long, slow cooking breaks down muscle fibers, helping to tenderize the meat, but if there isn't enough fat in the muscle fibers to keep the meat moist during the cooking, then the end result will be dry. The greater the marbling of fat in the meat, the more tender and juicy the pot roast will be. Use chuck or rump cuts, not the bottom round (a boneless muscle from the back leg) that is often promoted as an ideal pot roast cut. To my taste, there just isn't enough fat to make bottom round work. Chuck and rump cuts, by contrast, are richly marbled and produce beefy, juicy pot roasts. one of the great glories of anyone's home repertoire-once you know the rules, it's actually quite easy to produce a fork-tender masterpiece. Unfortunately, if you don't know the rules, it's easy to go wrong with either the texture or flavor. Pot roasts cook by braising. Long, slow cooking breaks down muscle fibers, helping to tenderize the meat, but if there isn't enough fat in the muscle fibers to keep the meat moist during the cooking, then the end result will be dry. The greater the marbling of fat in the meat, the more tender and juicy the pot roast will be. Use chuck or rump cuts, not the bottom round (a boneless muscle from the back leg) that is often promoted as an ideal pot roast cut. To my taste, there just isn't enough fat to make bottom round work. Chuck and rump cuts, by contrast, are richly marbled and produce beefy, juicy pot roasts.

The second issue is flavor. Slow cooking gives the meat the opportunity to absorb the flavors of other ingredients. The more intense the flavors, the stronger their influence. If the ingredients are too mild, the final taste will be bland. This recipe includes red wine vinegar, a potent enhancement to the powerful influence of pancetta, anchovies, and green peppers. When I first made this dish, the flavor reminded me so much of the American South that I served it with grits instead of potatoes, but polenta would be just as good.

MAKES 6 TO 8 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 boneless beef chuck or rump roast (about 4 pounds) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons vegetable oil pound pancetta, cut into -inch dice 2 medium onions, chopped into -inch dice 8 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 8 anchovies, rinsed and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup red wine vinegar 4 bay leaves 4 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth, or as needed 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 4 green peppers, roasted (see page 99), peeled, stemmed, seeded, and cut into -inch-wide strips 2 cups canned tomatoes, drained and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1. Season the meat all over with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat is partially rendered, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Season the meat all over with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta and cook until the fat is partially rendered, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2. Sear the meat all over in the fat until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside. Sear the meat all over in the fat until well browned, then remove from the pan and set aside.

3. Lower the heat to medium. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 more minutes. Add the anchovies and vinegar. Lower the heat to medium. Add the onions, season with salt and pepper, and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring occasionally, for 4 more minutes. Add the anchovies and vinegar.

4. Return the meat and pancetta to the pan, then add the bay leaves and enough chicken stock to come one-quarter of the way up the roast. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cover the roast with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan. Return the meat and pancetta to the pan, then add the bay leaves and enough chicken stock to come one-quarter of the way up the roast. As soon as the liquid comes to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer and cover the roast with foil, pressing the foil down into the pan, then place a lid on the pan.

5. Braise the meat for 3 hours, turning the meat every 30 minutes or so, and adding more stock as needed to keep the juices one-quarter of the way up the meat. Adjust the heat if the liquids are at more than a simmer. The meat should be very tender, offering little resistance when pierced with a fork. Braise the meat for 3 hours, turning the meat every 30 minutes or so, and adding more stock as needed to keep the juices one-quarter of the way up the meat. Adjust the heat if the liquids are at more than a simmer. The meat should be very tender, offering little resistance when pierced with a fork.

6. Add the sage, peppers, and tomatoes and cook for an additional 30 minutes. Transfer the meat to a large platter. Add the sage, peppers, and tomatoes and cook for an additional 30 minutes. Transfer the meat to a large platter.

7. Skim any fat off the juices. Remove the bay leaves. If the braising liquid seems too thin, increase the heat to medium and cook until the liquid thickens. Skim any fat off the juices. Remove the bay leaves. If the braising liquid seems too thin, increase the heat to medium and cook until the liquid thickens.

8. Thinly slice the roast and arrange overlapping slices on the platter. Spoon the braising liquid and vegetables over the slices and serve. Thinly slice the roast and arrange overlapping slices on the platter. Spoon the braising liquid and vegetables over the slices and serve.

Braised Oxtails with White Beans Imagine a pot roast so juicy and tender it falls apart as soon as you wave your fork over it-you're really thinking about oxtails, you just don't know it. If there were a Braising Hall of Fame, the oxtails display would be front and center. Their secret advantage is a huge reservoir of collagen that melts during braising. The collagen thickens the braising liquid into a sensuously velvety sauce and the meat, which has its own helpfully high fat content, takes on the remarkably tender richness that only happens in braising. juicy and tender it falls apart as soon as you wave your fork over it-you're really thinking about oxtails, you just don't know it. If there were a Braising Hall of Fame, the oxtails display would be front and center. Their secret advantage is a huge reservoir of collagen that melts during braising. The collagen thickens the braising liquid into a sensuously velvety sauce and the meat, which has its own helpfully high fat content, takes on the remarkably tender richness that only happens in braising.

You can certainly enjoy this the day you make it, but to my palate, braises taste better if made a day or two before serving, allowing their flavors to blend. Refrigerate everything in the same container, then reheat after sc.r.a.ping any congealed fat off the surface of the sauce.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 cup navy beans, picked over for stones and broken beans and rinsed 4 pounds oxtails (from the thick end of the tail), cut into 3-inch sections, trimmed of excess fat Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup unbleached all-purpose flour for dusting 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into 1-inch lengths 3 medium onions, sliced 1 inch thick 1 celery stalk, peeled and cut into -inch pieces 3 red peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped into 1-inch pieces 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 cups dry red wine cup red wine vinegar 2 cups canned tomatoes, drained Grated zest of 1 lemon 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons coriander seeds 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Either soak the beans overnight or put them in a pot, cover with 1 inch of water, and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain. Either soak the beans overnight or put them in a pot, cover with 1 inch of water, and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain.

2. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

3. Season the oxtails with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Sear the oxtails in batches, cooking no more than will fit in a single layer in the pan at a time, until browned all over. Remove from the pan and set them aside. Season the oxtails with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat the oil in a large braising pan or ovenproof ca.s.serole over medium-high heat. Sear the oxtails in batches, cooking no more than will fit in a single layer in the pan at a time, until browned all over. Remove from the pan and set them aside.

4. Lower the heat to medium. Add the carrots, onions, celery, and peppers to the pan and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until it becomes aromatic, a couple of minutes. Add the red wine and vinegar and cook until reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes. Lower the heat to medium. Add the carrots, onions, celery, and peppers to the pan and saute until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until it becomes aromatic, a couple of minutes. Add the red wine and vinegar and cook until reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes.

5. Return the oxtails to the pan and add the remaining ingredients, except the parsley; add the drained beans. Cover the oxtails tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid. Put the pan in the oven to braise. Return the oxtails to the pan and add the remaining ingredients, except the parsley; add the drained beans. Cover the oxtails tightly with a piece of aluminum foil, pressing it down into the pan, then cover with a lid. Put the pan in the oven to braise.

6. After 45 minutes, remove the pan from the oven and give everything a quick stir, so the beans will cook evenly. Check to make sure the liquid hasn't dropped below halfway up the bones; if necessary, add more liquid. Replace the foil and lid and return the pan to the oven. Braise the oxtails for approximately After 45 minutes, remove the pan from the oven and give everything a quick stir, so the beans will cook evenly. Check to make sure the liquid hasn't dropped below halfway up the bones; if necessary, add more liquid. Replace the foil and lid and return the pan to the oven. Braise the oxtails for approximately 3 3 more hours, stirring and checking the level of the liquid every 30 minutes. The dish is done when the meat is beginning to fall off the bone and the beans are tender. Taste and adjust the seasonings. (If giving the dish a day or two of rest before serving, remove the oxtails from the heat and allow them to cool, then transfer the entire dish to a fresh container for refrigerating. The next day, after skimming off the fat, reheat on top of the stove; if you prefer the dish without bones, remove them as described below before reheating. Proceed as directed.) more hours, stirring and checking the level of the liquid every 30 minutes. The dish is done when the meat is beginning to fall off the bone and the beans are tender. Taste and adjust the seasonings. (If giving the dish a day or two of rest before serving, remove the oxtails from the heat and allow them to cool, then transfer the entire dish to a fresh container for refrigerating. The next day, after skimming off the fat, reheat on top of the stove; if you prefer the dish without bones, remove them as described below before reheating. Proceed as directed.) 7. Skim the fat off the surface of the braising liquid. If you prefer to serve the dish without bones (I leave the bones on board), remove the oxtails from the pan, trim off the meat, and return it to the pan. Stir everything together, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve from the pan at the table. Skim the fat off the surface of the braising liquid. If you prefer to serve the dish without bones (I leave the bones on board), remove the oxtails from the pan, trim off the meat, and return it to the pan. Stir everything together, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve from the pan at the table.

Tuscan-Style Sirloin with Parmesan, Lemon, and Truffle Oil Bistecca alla fiorentina is a staggeringly simply preparation: top-quality steak dressed with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper, grilled quite rare, and garnished with lemon. Traditionally prepared with a T-bone steak, weighing in at a little over a pound, this is a dish for devoted carnivores. I put my version of this dish on the menu when we opened Rialto, using sirloin instead of T-bone and serving it atop a salad of endive, arugula, mushrooms, shavings of Parmesan, and a drizzle of truffle oil. Eight years later, I can't take it off the menu-it is by far our biggest seller. All you need is a sangiovese wine from Tuscany. is a staggeringly simply preparation: top-quality steak dressed with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper, grilled quite rare, and garnished with lemon. Traditionally prepared with a T-bone steak, weighing in at a little over a pound, this is a dish for devoted carnivores. I put my version of this dish on the menu when we opened Rialto, using sirloin instead of T-bone and serving it atop a salad of endive, arugula, mushrooms, shavings of Parmesan, and a drizzle of truffle oil. Eight years later, I can't take it off the menu-it is by far our biggest seller. All you need is a sangiovese wine from Tuscany.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

4 sirloin steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), preferably prime Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil for brus.h.i.+ng the steaks 1 head endive, separated into leaves (about 12 leaves) 4 cups lightly packed arugula leaves, washed and dried 1 large portabella mushroom cap (about 5 inches across), cleaned and sliced paper-thin 1 lemon, halved 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 ounces Parmesan shavings 4 teaspoons truffle oil (optional) 1. Prepare a grill with hot and medium cooking areas (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this). Prepare a grill with hot and medium cooking areas (see page 265 if you're unfamiliar with how to do this).

2. Sprinkle the steaks liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush on each side with vegetable oil. Sprinkle the steaks liberally on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush on each side with vegetable oil.

3. Set the steaks on the hottest part of the grill. Sear the steaks for 2 minutes, then flip and sear on the other side for 2 minutes. After the initial searing, move the steaks to the medium part of the grill and continue cooking until done, flipping them regularly so they cook evenly. When their temperature registers between 5 and 10 degrees below the desired state of doneness pull them off the grill: Figure on 120F for rare; 126F for medium-rare; or 134F for medium. If you like your steaks rare, begin checking their internal temperature as soon as the initial searing finishes. It's unlikely they'll be done, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. Steaks and grills are variable, so judge when a steak is done by its look and feel, or internal temperature as indicated by an instant-read digital thermometer, not by the number of minutes it has cooked. (As a Set the steaks on the hottest part of the grill. Sear the steaks for 2 minutes, then flip and sear on the other side for 2 minutes. After the initial searing, move the steaks to the medium part of the grill and continue cooking until done, flipping them regularly so they cook evenly. When their temperature registers between 5 and 10 degrees below the desired state of doneness pull them off the grill: Figure on 120F for rare; 126F for medium-rare; or 134F for medium. If you like your steaks rare, begin checking their internal temperature as soon as the initial searing finishes. It's unlikely they'll be done, but it's always better to be safe than sorry. Steaks and grills are variable, so judge when a steak is done by its look and feel, or internal temperature as indicated by an instant-read digital thermometer, not by the number of minutes it has cooked. (As a very general very general guideline, for 1-inch-thick steaks cooked on a charcoal grill, rare steaks should be pulled 2 to 4 minutes after the initial searing; medium-rare steaks will need another 5 to 7 minutes, medium steaks, 8 to 9 minutes. Steaks cooked on a gas grill will take slightly longer.) guideline, for 1-inch-thick steaks cooked on a charcoal grill, rare steaks should be pulled 2 to 4 minutes after the initial searing; medium-rare steaks will need another 5 to 7 minutes, medium steaks, 8 to 9 minutes. Steaks cooked on a gas grill will take slightly longer.) 4. Put the steaks on a warm platter, cover loosely with foil, and let them rest for 5 minutes. Put the steaks on a warm platter, cover loosely with foil, and let them rest for 5 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, put the endive, arugula, and mushroom slices into a large bowl. Squeeze the juice of one lemon half over the salad. Add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Taste, then adjust the seasonings if necessary. Meanwhile, put the endive, arugula, and mushroom slices into a large bowl. Squeeze the juice of one lemon half over the salad. Add the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss well. Taste, then adjust the seasonings if necessary.

6. Cut the second lemon half into 4 wedges. Distribute the salad among four plates. Set a steak on top of each salad, sprinkle with the shaved Parmesan, drizzle with the truffle oil, if using, and garnish each with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately. Cut the second lemon half into 4 wedges. Distribute the salad among four plates. Set a steak on top of each salad, sprinkle with the shaved Parmesan, drizzle with the truffle oil, if using, and garnish each with a lemon wedge. Serve immediately.

GRILL NOTESThin cuts of meat, poultry, or fish can cook on a hot grill, but the outside of thicker pieces tends to incinerate before the interior is properly cooked. The easiest method of dealing with the problem is to use a grill with two temperature regions-one hot and one medium. A grill is hot when you can hold your hand near the grill surface for no longer than a count of 2 before having to pull it away; it is medium when you can keep your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds before you have to move it. After searing a thick steak or piece of chicken over the hot region of the grill, s.h.i.+ft it to the cooler area, where it can finish cooking without burning on the outside.For a gas grill, preheat the grill on high with the cover closed for 15 minutes so everything is nice and hot when you start to cook. After the grill has had time to heat, leave the burners on one part of the grill on high, and lower the heat on the others until you can hold your hand near the grilling surface for 4 seconds.For a charcoal grill, arrange the hot coals in two zones. The area below what will be the hot part of the grill should be several times as thick as the layer below the medium part of the grill. After arranging the coals but before putting the grate in place, hold your hand over the two regions to make sure you've distributed the coals properly. Replace the grate and allow it to heat for 10 minutes before beginning to cook.

Also bear in mind:[image]A clean grill grate minimizes sticking.[image] Most home gas grills do not get as hot on ”high” as grills using charcoal. Adjust cooking times accordingly. Learn to judge doneness by look and feel or by using an instant-read digital thermometer, not by relying on cooking times. Most home gas grills do not get as hot on ”high” as grills using charcoal. Adjust cooking times accordingly. Learn to judge doneness by look and feel or by using an instant-read digital thermometer, not by relying on cooking times.[image] Grilling with the cover in place shortens cooking time. Refer to your grill's instructions regarding the vents in your grill's cover. Grilling with the cover in place shortens cooking time. Refer to your grill's instructions regarding the vents in your grill's cover.[image]Use charwood, if possible, not charcoal, for covered grilling. Most popular brands of charcoal briquettes are compressed sawdust impregnated with flammable chemicals and molded into briquettes. For open grilling, briquettes can be acceptable, but I often detect a chemical element in the flavor of food cooked with briquettes in a covered grill. Charwood, by contrast, is composed of solid chunks of genuine charcoal, that is, whole pieces of wood heated in a low-oxygen environment until they carbonize. Charwood burns hotter (but shorter) than commercial briquettes, without any chemical aroma.[image] Keep a small spray bottle handy when grilling meats to extinguish fat fires. Alternatively, lower the heat or use the grill cover to help minimize flaming. Keep a small spray bottle handy when grilling meats to extinguish fat fires. Alternatively, lower the heat or use the grill cover to help minimize flaming.

Braised Veal Shanks with Flageolets and Preserved Lemon February is the absolute nadir of the culinary year in New England. Spring has yet to arrive, and root vegetables have grown too familiar. These veal shanks are my personal antidote to the late-winter blahs. As a genre, braised veal shanks can be fairly heavy going-rich beyond enduring. This is a lighter treatment. None of the ingredients is actually from spring, but the bright fresh flavors of vermouth, pale green flageolets, tarragon, and tangy preserved lemon seem to suggest that lighter days are just around the corner. And there's always the b.u.t.tery marrow for the die-hard lover of rich culinary treasures. culinary year in New England. Spring has yet to arrive, and root vegetables have grown too familiar. These veal shanks are my personal antidote to the late-winter blahs. As a genre, braised veal shanks can be fairly heavy going-rich beyond enduring. This is a lighter treatment. None of the ingredients is actually from spring, but the bright fresh flavors of vermouth, pale green flageolets, tarragon, and tangy preserved lemon seem to suggest that lighter days are just around the corner. And there's always the b.u.t.tery marrow for the die-hard lover of rich culinary treasures.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

pound dried flageolet beans (if flageolets are unavailable, use Great Northern white beans), picked over for stones or broken beans and rinsed pound pearl onions 2 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon sugar 3 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or high-quality canned low-sodium chicken broth 4 large meaty veal shanks, about 2 inches thick (about 3 pounds total) 3 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 large carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 1 medium onion, chopped into -inch dice 6 garlic cloves, minced 3 bay leaves 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme 1 cup dry vermouth 5 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1 cup water 4 plum tomatoes, seeded (see page 55) and coa.r.s.ely chopped cup chopped fresh curly parsley Preserved Lemon (page 268; also available in stores that sell Middle Eastern food), pulp and pith removed, the skin cut into thin strips (if preserved lemon is unavailable, subst.i.tute the zest of 1 lemon removed with peeler and cut into thin strips) 1. Soak the flageolets overnight, or put them in a pot, add water to cover by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain. Soak the flageolets overnight, or put them in a pot, add water to cover by 1 inch, and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat and let sit for 1 hour. Drain.

2. While the flageolets are soaking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Blanch the pearl onions in the boiling water for 10 seconds, then plunge them into the ice water. Drain, then remove their skins with a sharp paring knife. While the flageolets are soaking, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water. Blanch the pearl onions in the boiling water for 10 seconds, then plunge them into the ice water. Drain, then remove their skins with a sharp paring knife.

3. Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the pearl onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook until they start to brown, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle them with the sugar. As soon as the sugar melts (watch closely so it doesn't burn), add Heat the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the pearl onions and season with salt and pepper. Cook until they start to brown, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle them with the sugar. As soon as the sugar melts (watch closely so it doesn't burn), add cup of the chicken stock and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 10 minutes, then add another cup of the chicken stock and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 10 minutes, then add another cup chicken stock and continue cooking until the onions are tender and golden and the stock has reduced to a glaze, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside. cup chicken stock and continue cooking until the onions are tender and golden and the stock has reduced to a glaze, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.

4. Preheat the oven to 325F. Preheat the oven to 325F.

5. Season the veal shanks all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear the shanks on both sides until browned, about 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer the shanks to a platter. Season the veal shanks all over with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large braising pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Sear the shanks on both sides until browned, about 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer the shanks to a platter.

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