Part 14 (1/2)

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons paprika 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons ground c.u.min 2 teaspoons ground coriander Pinch of saffron, soaked in cup freshly squeezed lemon juice cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 4 Rock Cornish game hens (about 1 pound each) Kosher salt 2 lemons, washed well and cut into quarters 2 tablespoons dark raisins 2 large white onions (about 1 1 pounds total), sliced 1 inch thick pounds total), sliced 1 inch thick 1 pound ripe plum tomatoes, each cut into 4 wedges, then halved crosswise 2 cups cooked chickpeas (see page 230), if using canned chickpeas, rinse well cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley DO AHEAD: Make the spice paste and rub it into the hens 4 hours ahead of time; cover the hens loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook. Cook the chickpeas. Make the spice paste and rub it into the hens 4 hours ahead of time; cover the hens loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook. Cook the chickpeas.

1. Preheat the oven to 375F. Preheat the oven to 375F.

2. Mix the garlic, paprika, cinnamon, ginger, pepper, c.u.min, coriander, saffron with its lemon juice, and cup of the vegetable oil in a large bowl to make a spice paste. Toss the hens in the bowl with the spice paste and rub them until they're evenly coated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Marinate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours. Mix the garlic, paprika, cinnamon, ginger, pepper, c.u.min, coriander, saffron with its lemon juice, and cup of the vegetable oil in a large bowl to make a spice paste. Toss the hens in the bowl with the spice paste and rub them until they're evenly coated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Marinate for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours.

3. Remove the hens from the refrigerator; do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade. Sprinkle the hens liberally inside and out with salt. Put a lemon quarter and one-quarter of the raisins in the cavity of each bird. Put the onions in the bottom of a roasting pan, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Put two V-racks (or arrange two regular racks into a V) over the onions, and place 2 hens breast side down on each rack. Remove the hens from the refrigerator; do not sc.r.a.pe off the marinade. Sprinkle the hens liberally inside and out with salt. Put a lemon quarter and one-quarter of the raisins in the cavity of each bird. Put the onions in the bottom of a roasting pan, season with salt and pepper, and toss with the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Put two V-racks (or arrange two regular racks into a V) over the onions, and place 2 hens breast side down on each rack.

4. Roast for 30 minutes, then turn the birds breast side up, give the onions a stir, and roast for an additional 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and chickpeas to the pan and roast for an additional 15 minutes, or until the skin has browned and the hens are cooked through. Roast for 30 minutes, then turn the birds breast side up, give the onions a stir, and roast for an additional 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and chickpeas to the pan and roast for an additional 15 minutes, or until the skin has browned and the hens are cooked through.

The juices should run clear from the thickest part of the thigh when poked with a skewer; an instant-read digital thermometer inserted at the same spot should read 165F. Transfer the hens to a platter.

5. Add the chopped parsley to the vegetable mixture in the roasting pan, stir, and taste for seasonings. Spoon the mixture around the platter. Garnish with the remaining lemon quarters. Serve immediately. Add the chopped parsley to the vegetable mixture in the roasting pan, stir, and taste for seasonings. Spoon the mixture around the platter. Garnish with the remaining lemon quarters. Serve immediately.

How to Cook Chickpeas One cup of dried chickpeas will make about 2 will make about 2 cups cooked. Dried chickpeas are so hard they need to be treated more like beans than peas, which means they need to soak before cooking. You can soak them using either the overnight or the quick-soak method. Whichever method you use, pick through them first to remove any stones or debris. cups cooked. Dried chickpeas are so hard they need to be treated more like beans than peas, which means they need to soak before cooking. You can soak them using either the overnight or the quick-soak method. Whichever method you use, pick through them first to remove any stones or debris.

MAKES 2 TO 3 CUPS.

OVERNIGHT METHOD: Soak the chickpeas in 4 times their volume of cold water (e.g., cover 1 cup chickpeas with 4 cups water). Here ”overnight” actually means ”for at least 4 hours, ” which could mean all morning or all afternoon, or whatever your schedule dictates. The point is, they need to soak for at least 4 hours, and a few hours longer won't hurt them. Skim off any chickpeas that float to the surface. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas thoroughly and examine them again to be sure no small stones have escaped your notice. Soak the chickpeas in 4 times their volume of cold water (e.g., cover 1 cup chickpeas with 4 cups water). Here ”overnight” actually means ”for at least 4 hours, ” which could mean all morning or all afternoon, or whatever your schedule dictates. The point is, they need to soak for at least 4 hours, and a few hours longer won't hurt them. Skim off any chickpeas that float to the surface. Drain and rinse the soaked chickpeas thoroughly and examine them again to be sure no small stones have escaped your notice.

QUICK-SOAK METHOD: Place the chickpeas in a large pot with 4 times their volume in water. Bring to a boil for a full minute, then turn off the heat, cover, and let soak for an hour. Drain and rinse thoroughly, and examine again for any remaining stones. Place the chickpeas in a large pot with 4 times their volume in water. Bring to a boil for a full minute, then turn off the heat, cover, and let soak for an hour. Drain and rinse thoroughly, and examine again for any remaining stones.

1 cup dried chickpeas, soaked, drained, and rinsed 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil small onion, cut into quarters small celery stalk 2 bay leaves Kosher salt 1. Put the soaked chickpeas in a medium saucepan with 8 cups cold water. Boil for 10 minutes, then lower the heat to a simmer. Skim off any sc.u.m.

2. Add the olive oil, onion, celery, and bay leaves. Simmer, partly covered, until the chickpeas are tender, 1 hours or more. Depending on their quality and age, chickpeas vary considerably in cooking time.

3. After the chickpeas are tender, add the salt. (If you add the salt before they're tender their skins will toughen.) Simmer for 10 minutes more so they can absorb the salt. Drain. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.

Peppered Chicken Cooked Under a Brick with Hot-and-Spicy Ginger Sauce When I get a craving for chicken with crispy skin, I go straight to this variation on the cla.s.sic for chicken with crispy skin, I go straight to this variation on the cla.s.sic pollo ala diavolo. pollo ala diavolo. Crackling skin and copious amounts of red pepper-that's enough for me. Weighting b.u.t.terflied chickens with bricks or other heavy objects as they cook keeps the birds flat, pressing their skin against the cooking surface so they crisp evenly. I rely on bricks wrapped in foil, but you can use just about anything as long as it's clean and heatproof (antique pressing irons would be ideal). Leftovers are perfect picnic fare; the skin doesn't become soggy after it cools, as cold fried chicken skin does. Crackling skin and copious amounts of red pepper-that's enough for me. Weighting b.u.t.terflied chickens with bricks or other heavy objects as they cook keeps the birds flat, pressing their skin against the cooking surface so they crisp evenly. I rely on bricks wrapped in foil, but you can use just about anything as long as it's clean and heatproof (antique pressing irons would be ideal). Leftovers are perfect picnic fare; the skin doesn't become soggy after it cools, as cold fried chicken skin does.

Look no further than this recipe for a reason to purchase a few extra inexpensive cast-iron skillets (each flattened bird cooks in its own frying pan). I've tried playing with the technique, searing the birds briefly and then letting them finish cooking in the oven, but they just don't taste the same and the skin isn't as crisp.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

CHICKEN.

4 free-range baby (poussin) chickens or Rock Cornish game hens (about 1 pound each) 1 tablespoon hot red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon fennel seeds cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more if needed Kosher salt SAUCE.

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar Kosher salt 2 shallots, thinly sliced cup dry sherry 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups highquality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 3 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar Kosher salt DO AHEAD: Prepare the chickens and marinate overnight (see Step 1). Prepare the chickens and marinate overnight (see Step 1).

1. b.u.t.terfly the chicken (see page 234), removing the backbone and wing tips, but leaving the breastbone. Sprinkle the chickens with the red pepper flakes, ginger, chopped garlic, and fennel seeds. Rub with the oil, cover, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator. b.u.t.terfly the chicken (see page 234), removing the backbone and wing tips, but leaving the breastbone. Sprinkle the chickens with the red pepper flakes, ginger, chopped garlic, and fennel seeds. Rub with the oil, cover, and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.

2. Season the chicken with salt. Heat four large frying pans each with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium heat. Place the chickens skin side up in the pans, flatten each one with a weight, and cook halfway through, about 20 minutes. Flip the chickens, replace the weights, and cook until done, about another 20 minutes. The skin should be crispy and golden brown. Transfer the chickens to a cutting board (set one of the pans aside) and remove the breastbones. Transfer the chickens to a plate, skin side up. Season the chicken with salt. Heat four large frying pans each with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil over medium heat. Place the chickens skin side up in the pans, flatten each one with a weight, and cook halfway through, about 20 minutes. Flip the chickens, replace the weights, and cook until done, about another 20 minutes. The skin should be crispy and golden brown. Transfer the chickens to a cutting board (set one of the pans aside) and remove the breastbones. Transfer the chickens to a plate, skin side up.

3. Saute the ginger, garlic, and sliced shallots in the reserved pan over medium heat, adding an additional tablespoon of oil if necessary, until tender, about 5 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the sherry and cook at a simmer until it has reduced by three-quarters, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the stock and cook until it has reduced by two-thirds, about 30 minutes. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter and season with the vinegar and salt. Saute the ginger, garlic, and sliced shallots in the reserved pan over medium heat, adding an additional tablespoon of oil if necessary, until tender, about 5 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the sherry and cook at a simmer until it has reduced by three-quarters, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the stock and cook until it has reduced by two-thirds, about 30 minutes. Whisk in the b.u.t.ter and season with the vinegar and salt.

4. Make a pool of sauce on one side of each of four warm plates. Set the chicken atop the sauce so it rests half on, half off the sauce (you've worked hard for the crispy skin, so don't drown it in sauce). Serve immediately. Make a pool of sauce on one side of each of four warm plates. Set the chicken atop the sauce so it rests half on, half off the sauce (you've worked hard for the crispy skin, so don't drown it in sauce). Serve immediately.

Grilled Smoked Chicken with Poppy Seeds and Pancetta Poppy seeds may seem like an unusual ingredient in roast chicken, but their nuttiness and affinity for lemon are what started this recipe. It began life as an oven-roasted chicken, but I just couldn't figure out a way to get the smoky flavor as intense as I wanted it without setting off my fire alarm. Time for the outdoor grill. The result is an exquisitely flavored bird the color of pale mahogany, crusted with poppy seeds and a mixture of lemon, rosemary, fennel, and parsley bound together with honey. Slices of pancetta inserted beneath the skin prevent the breast from drying out before the legs are done. The lemon quarters inside the cavity become saturated with the chicken's juices as the bird roasts; squeeze them over the chicken just before serving. an unusual ingredient in roast chicken, but their nuttiness and affinity for lemon are what started this recipe. It began life as an oven-roasted chicken, but I just couldn't figure out a way to get the smoky flavor as intense as I wanted it without setting off my fire alarm. Time for the outdoor grill. The result is an exquisitely flavored bird the color of pale mahogany, crusted with poppy seeds and a mixture of lemon, rosemary, fennel, and parsley bound together with honey. Slices of pancetta inserted beneath the skin prevent the breast from drying out before the legs are done. The lemon quarters inside the cavity become saturated with the chicken's juices as the bird roasts; squeeze them over the chicken just before serving.

The times given for roasting the chicken are somewhat imprecise. My 324-pound bird took 2 hours in a covered gas grill, using medium indirect heat. (A medium heat is one where you can hold your hand near the cooking surface for a count of 4 before having to remove it.) Adjust your time according to the size of your bird and your ability to manage the heat in your grill. Judge the chicken's doneness by using an instant-read digital thermometer and the color of the thigh juices, not by time. Do not omit the wood chips-the smoke is an essential component of the bird's flavor.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

2 cups of wood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes

One 3-to 4-pound chicken 4 thin slices pancetta Grated zest of 3 lemons (reserve the lemons) cup poppy seeds 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, crushed 2 tablespoons honey cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 3 tablespoons vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Using a st.u.r.dy knife or cleaver, chop the wing tips off the chicken. Using your fingers, separate the skin from the b.r.e.a.s.t.s, forming a pocket over each breast. Slip 2 slices of pancetta into each pocket, then press the skin back down to hold the pancetta in place. Using a st.u.r.dy knife or cleaver, chop the wing tips off the chicken. Using your fingers, separate the skin from the b.r.e.a.s.t.s, forming a pocket over each breast. Slip 2 slices of pancetta into each pocket, then press the skin back down to hold the pancetta in place.

2. Drain the wood chips and put them into a small foil pan. Prepare a medium fire in a grill; allow the grill to heat with the top closed and the pan of chips directly over the flames or coals until the entire grate is hot and the chips are smoking well, at least 15 minutes. Then adjust the heat source so there is a s.p.a.ce in the center of the grate that is not directly above the coals or flames, large enough to hold the chicken with plenty of room to spare. Turn off the middle burner if using a gas grill, or push the coals to the sides of a charcoal grill. The chicken should cook by indirect heat-it should not grill. Only the pan of wood chips should be over direct heat. Drain the wood chips and put them into a small foil pan. Prepare a medium fire in a grill; allow the grill to heat with the top closed and the pan of chips directly over the flames or coals until the entire grate is hot and the chips are smoking well, at least 15 minutes. Then adjust the heat source so there is a s.p.a.ce in the center of the grate that is not directly above the coals or flames, large enough to hold the chicken with plenty of room to spare. Turn off the middle burner if using a gas grill, or push the coals to the sides of a charcoal grill. The chicken should cook by indirect heat-it should not grill. Only the pan of wood chips should be over direct heat.

3. Meanwhile, mix the lemon zest with the poppy seeds, garlic, fennel seeds, honey, parsley, rosemary, and oil to form a paste. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Smear the paste evenly over the exterior of the chicken. Cut 2 of the zested lemons into quarters (save the remaining lemon for another use). Place as many of the lemon quarters inside the cavity as will fit comfortably (don't squish them). Tie the legs together with butcher's twine and truss the chicken so the cavity is closed. Meanwhile, mix the lemon zest with the poppy seeds, garlic, fennel seeds, honey, parsley, rosemary, and oil to form a paste. Season the chicken inside and out with salt and pepper. Smear the paste evenly over the exterior of the chicken. Cut 2 of the zested lemons into quarters (save the remaining lemon for another use). Place as many of the lemon quarters inside the cavity as will fit comfortably (don't squish them). Tie the legs together with butcher's twine and truss the chicken so the cavity is closed.

4. Place the chicken breast side up on the grill. Close the grill and roast for 1 to 2 hours. An instant-read digital thermometer should read 165F when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. This will give you a moist juicy chicken. If you prefer chicken a little more well done, wait until the thermometer reads 170F. When the thigh is p.r.i.c.ked near where it joins the body, the juices should run clear. Remove and let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving. Place the chicken breast side up on the grill. Close the grill and roast for 1 to 2 hours. An instant-read digital thermometer should read 165F when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh. This will give you a moist juicy chicken. If you prefer chicken a little more well done, wait until the thermometer reads 170F. When the thigh is p.r.i.c.ked near where it joins the body, the juices should run clear. Remove and let the chicken rest for 10 minutes before carving.

5. Remove the lemon quarters from the cavity (I know-they're a mess) and set aside. Carve the chicken and arrange on a platter. Squeeze the lemon quarters over the chicken, or offer them on the side. Serve immediately. Remove the lemon quarters from the cavity (I know-they're a mess) and set aside. Carve the chicken and arrange on a platter. Squeeze the lemon quarters over the chicken, or offer them on the side. Serve immediately.

HOW TO b.u.t.tERFLY A CHICKENb.u.t.terflying a chicken opens the bird out of its natural football shape into a single flat layer (presumably resembling a b.u.t.terfly), making it easier to grill or saute the entire bird evenly. Theoretically you can b.u.t.terfly any poultry, but the technique is most conveniently applied to small fowl-chickens under 1 pounds, game hens, and quail. Larger birds become unwieldy when b.u.t.terflied and the increased time you have to spend cooking them on top of the stove can make the preparation a ch.o.r.e.Set the chicken breast side down. Using a st.u.r.dy knife, cleaver, or kitchen scissors, split the chicken lengthwise down one side of the backbone. (Do not split the breast.) Cut down the other side of the backbone. Remove the backbone and discard, or save it for stock. Clip off the wing tips (the last joint) and discard. Lay the flat side of a chef's knife or cleaver across the breastbone and apply pressure until you feel the breastbone break. if the chicken doesn't lie perfectly flat after the first break, advance the knife along the ridge of the breastbone and break it again. Keep doing this along the bone until the chicken lies flat. (Do not remove the breastbone.) Braised Chicken in Mustard with Garlic and Mascarpone Once in a while I taste a cla.s.sic treatment for meat or fish and immediately imagine applying the same approach to a completely different animal. A French recipe for rabbit in a luscious mustard cream was the springboard for this dish. Instead of the creme fraiche called for in the version with rabbit, I've used mascarpone. American creme fraiche is more acidic than the French product, and I wanted a softer, sweeter flavor for the chicken. This dish definitely falls into the category of braises that improve with a day of sitting, so make it a day ahead if you can. taste a cla.s.sic treatment for meat or fish and immediately imagine applying the same approach to a completely different animal. A French recipe for rabbit in a luscious mustard cream was the springboard for this dish. Instead of the creme fraiche called for in the version with rabbit, I've used mascarpone. American creme fraiche is more acidic than the French product, and I wanted a softer, sweeter flavor for the chicken. This dish definitely falls into the category of braises that improve with a day of sitting, so make it a day ahead if you can.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

MARINADE.

1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed cup Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon cracked black pepper 2 bay leaves

4 chicken leg-thigh quarters 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 ounces sliced pancetta, cut into -inch pieces 12 garlic cloves, peeled 12 shallots, peeled cup white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon tomato paste 2 cups Chicken Stock (page 31) or 4 cups highquality canned low-sodium chicken broth, reduced to 2 cups (see page 32) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme teaspoon hot red pepper flakes pound DO AHEAD: Prepare everything through Step 5 (i.e., don't make the sauce or add the mascarpone) and refrigerate the chicken in the braising juices. Reheat everything on top of the stove the next day and make the sauce just before serving. Prepare everything through Step 5 (i.e., don't make the sauce or add the mascarpone) and refrigerate the chicken in the braising juices. Reheat everything on top of the stove the next day and make the sauce just before serving.

1. To make the marinade, heat the vegetable oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Transfer the shallots and garlic to a larger bowl. To make the marinade, heat the vegetable oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Let cool. Transfer the shallots and garlic to a larger bowl.

2. Whisk the cooked shallots and garlic, Dijon mustard, thyme, cracked pepper, and bay leaves together in a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss it about so all of the surfaces come in contact with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (it can be left overnight, if that's more convenient), turning the chicken once or twice. Whisk the cooked shallots and garlic, Dijon mustard, thyme, cracked pepper, and bay leaves together in a large bowl. Add the chicken and toss it about so all of the surfaces come in contact with the marinade. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (it can be left overnight, if that's more convenient), turning the chicken once or twice.

3. Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Remove the chicken from the bowl, reserving the marinade, and season all over with salt and pepper. Sear the chicken on both sides until brown. Transfer to a plate. Add the pancetta to the pan and cook just until the fat starts to melt but the pancetta is not yet crispy, about a minute. Remove from the pan and set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Remove the chicken from the bowl, reserving the marinade, and season all over with salt and pepper. Sear the chicken on both sides until brown. Transfer to a plate. Add the pancetta to the pan and cook just until the fat starts to melt but the pancetta is not yet crispy, about a minute. Remove from the pan and set aside.

4. Add the whole garlic cloves and shallots to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Saute until lightly browned. Pour off the fat. Add the vinegar to the pan. The vinegar will foam up and reduce almost instantly; sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve any crispy bits. Continue stirring as the vinegar quickly reduces to a glaze, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook 1 minute, then add the reserved marinade and the chicken stock. Bring to a boil. Add the whole garlic cloves and shallots to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Saute until lightly browned. Pour off the fat. Add the vinegar to the pan. The vinegar will foam up and reduce almost instantly; sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve any crispy bits. Continue stirring as the vinegar quickly reduces to a glaze, about 30 seconds. Add the tomato paste and cook 1 minute, then add the reserved marinade and the chicken stock. Bring to a boil.

5. Return the chicken pieces to the pan. Stir in the pancetta, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the chicken is tender, but not falling off the bone, 40 to 45 minutes. Turn the chicken every 10 minutes so the exposed side doesn't dry out. Return the chicken pieces to the pan. Stir in the pancetta, thyme, and red pepper flakes. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the chicken is tender, but not falling off the bone, 40 to 45 minutes. Turn the chicken every 10 minutes so the exposed side doesn't dry out.

6. Remove the chicken from the pan and keep warm. Cook the sauce, uncovered, until it thickens slightly, about 10 minutes. To finish the sauce, remove the pan from the heat and add the mascarpone, whisking until smooth. Remove the chicken from the pan and keep warm. Cook the sauce, uncovered, until it thickens slightly, about 10 minutes. To finish the sauce, remove the pan from the heat and add the mascarpone, whisking until smooth.

7. Place a chicken quarter on each of four warmed plates, top with the sauce, and serve immediately. Place a chicken quarter on each of four warmed plates, top with the sauce, and serve immediately.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Ancho Peppers and Andouille Sausage This recipe came about when I needed seasoned chicken to go into the paella at our second restaurant, Red Clay. Then the chicken thighs began showing up at the staff family meal more frequently, and in larger portions, than would suggest they were simply leftovers from the paella. When a dish becomes a staff favorite, it's worth trying to figure out the appeal. The paprika, sausages, and ancho peppers give the chicken a smoky peppery quality usually found with ”hotter” dishes. Using skinless thighs allows the flavor of the spices to penetrate the chicken meat instead of remaining on the surface. With a little rice, this makes a comforting supper for cold nights. I can serve it to my four-year-old without fear of rejection. I needed seasoned chicken to go into the paella at our second restaurant, Red Clay. Then the chicken thighs began showing up at the staff family meal more frequently, and in larger portions, than would suggest they were simply leftovers from the paella. When a dish becomes a staff favorite, it's worth trying to figure out the appeal. The paprika, sausages, and ancho peppers give the chicken a smoky peppery quality usually found with ”hotter” dishes. Using skinless thighs allows the flavor of the spices to penetrate the chicken meat instead of remaining on the surface. With a little rice, this makes a comforting supper for cold nights. I can serve it to my four-year-old without fear of rejection.

This dish improves with a day of sitting, so prepare it ahead if possible. Also, if fat is a concern, a day of refrigeration makes it easy to sc.r.a.pe off the layer of fat that rises to the top of the dish. If you're in a hurry, pour the sauce into a Pyrex measuring cup, put it in the freezer for an hour, and then sc.r.a.pe off the fat.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.