Part 12 (1/2)

2 ounces thinly sliced smoked bacon, cut crosswise into -inch thick pieces small carrot, peeled and chopped into -inch dice celery stalk, peeled and chopped into -inch dice 3 shallots, chopped into -inch dice 1 garlic clove, minced cup French green lentils (le Puy), rinsed and picked over for stones 2 bay leaves Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper teaspoon chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

SHAD ROE.

4 cups water cup dry white wine 1 small onion, sliced inch thick 1 celery stalk, peeled and sliced inch thick 2 sprigs thyme 10 peppercorns 2 bay leaves Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 pairs shad roe (about pound each) About cup unbleached all-purpose flour 7 tablespoons unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 shallot, thinly sliced 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 tablespoon capers, rinsed 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley pound bitter greens, such as arugula or chicory 1. In a heavy saucepan, cook the bacon over medium heat until it has rendered its fat but is not yet crispy. Add the carrot, celery, shallots, and garlic and cook until they just begin to brown around the edges but are still crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer the vegetables and bacon to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan. In a heavy saucepan, cook the bacon over medium heat until it has rendered its fat but is not yet crispy. Add the carrot, celery, shallots, and garlic and cook until they just begin to brown around the edges but are still crisp, about 3 minutes. Transfer the vegetables and bacon to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan.

2. Add the lentils and bay leaves to the saucepan. Add enough water to cover the lentils by an inch. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes; add additional water if necessary while the lentils are cooking. Add the lentils and bay leaves to the saucepan. Add enough water to cover the lentils by an inch. Bring to a boil, then immediately lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes; add additional water if necessary while the lentils are cooking.

3. Return the vegetables and bacon to the pan and continue cooking until the lentils and vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 more minutes. The liquid should be almost completely absorbed, with a hint of soupiness. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the thyme and chopped parsley; discard the bay leaves. Keep warm. Return the vegetables and bacon to the pan and continue cooking until the lentils and vegetables are tender, 15 to 20 more minutes. The liquid should be almost completely absorbed, with a hint of soupiness. Season with salt and pepper and stir in the thyme and chopped parsley; discard the bay leaves. Keep warm.

4. To poach the roe, put the water, white wine, onion, celery, thyme sprigs, peppercorns, and bay leaves in a medium saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes. Gently slip the pairs of roe into the liquid and poach for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and allow the pairs to cool in the poaching liquid. To poach the roe, put the water, white wine, onion, celery, thyme sprigs, peppercorns, and bay leaves in a medium saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15 minutes. Gently slip the pairs of roe into the liquid and poach for 1 minute. Turn off the heat and allow the pairs to cool in the poaching liquid.

5. When the shad roe is cool, remove from the liquid. Trim off any dangling membranes, taking care not to rip the membrane that holds the eggs together. Separate each pair into 2 lobes. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour. When the shad roe is cool, remove from the liquid. Trim off any dangling membranes, taking care not to rip the membrane that holds the eggs together. Separate each pair into 2 lobes. Season with salt and pepper. Dredge in flour.

6. Distribute the lentils among four warm plates. Keep warm. Distribute the lentils among four warm plates. Keep warm.

7. Heat 6 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as the foam subsides, add the lobes and sear on each side until golden, about Heat 6 tablespoons of the b.u.t.ter in a large saute pan over medium heat. As soon as the foam subsides, add the lobes and sear on each side until golden, about 3 3 minutes per side. Transfer the roe to the plates with the lentils. minutes per side. Transfer the roe to the plates with the lentils.

8. Add the shallot to the pan and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and capers and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper, add the parsley, and pour over the roe. Add the shallot to the pan and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Add the lemon juice and capers and bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper, add the parsley, and pour over the roe.

9. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan, increase the heat to high, and add the greens. Season with salt and pepper and toss until they're slightly wilted. Divide the greens among the plates and serve immediately. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter to the pan, increase the heat to high, and add the greens. Season with salt and pepper and toss until they're slightly wilted. Divide the greens among the plates and serve immediately.

Salmon Marinated in Mint and Basil with Summer Vegetable Gratin For the most part, I try to keep things as simple as possible when combining seafood and summer vegetables. But not so the French-and on some occasions, jumping through their hoops makes sense. This is a lovely decadent dish whose major effort goes into a rich gratin of summer vegetables with cream. The salmon is very lightly flavored with basil and mint. After the gratin is baked, the salmon is given a quick sear and served atop the vegetables. try to keep things as simple as possible when combining seafood and summer vegetables. But not so the French-and on some occasions, jumping through their hoops makes sense. This is a lovely decadent dish whose major effort goes into a rich gratin of summer vegetables with cream. The salmon is very lightly flavored with basil and mint. After the gratin is baked, the salmon is given a quick sear and served atop the vegetables.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

Grated zest of lemon 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, skin removed Kosher salt pound sugar snap peas, strings removed pound thin string beans, trimmed pound zucchini, scrubbed and cut into -inch dice pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, dried, and coa.r.s.ely chopped 1 ear corn, husked pound leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit 1 baking potato (about 8 ounces), peeled and cut into -inch dice 1 cup heavy cream 1 lemon, halved Freshly ground black pepper 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots cup toasted bread crumbs DO AHEAD: Marinate the salmon with the herbs an hour before cooking. You can shave some preparation time from the final a.s.sembly by blanching the vegetables ahead. Marinate the salmon with the herbs an hour before cooking. You can shave some preparation time from the final a.s.sembly by blanching the vegetables ahead.

1. In a shallow dish, toss the lemon zest with 2 tablespoons of the mint, 2 tablespoons of the basil, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Rub the mixture on the salmon. Marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator. In a shallow dish, toss the lemon zest with 2 tablespoons of the mint, 2 tablespoons of the basil, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Rub the mixture on the salmon. Marinate for 1 hour in the refrigerator.

2. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water-it should be large enough to hold all of the vegetables. One at a time, briefly blanch the snap peas, string beans, zucchini, spinach, and the ear of corn in the boiling water, then plunge them into the ice water to stop the cooking. The goal is to cook everything just to the point where an element of crispness still remains. The snap peas and string beans will take 1 to 2 minutes, the zucchini about a minute; the spinach only 15 to 30 seconds, and the corn 2 minutes. Remove the corn from the water and use a sharp knife to strip the corn kernels from the cob. Discard the cob. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water-it should be large enough to hold all of the vegetables. One at a time, briefly blanch the snap peas, string beans, zucchini, spinach, and the ear of corn in the boiling water, then plunge them into the ice water to stop the cooking. The goal is to cook everything just to the point where an element of crispness still remains. The snap peas and string beans will take 1 to 2 minutes, the zucchini about a minute; the spinach only 15 to 30 seconds, and the corn 2 minutes. Remove the corn from the water and use a sharp knife to strip the corn kernels from the cob. Discard the cob.

3. Fill a small pot with salted water. Add the leeks and potato, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Plunge into the ice water with the other vegetables. Drain and dry all the vegetables. Fill a small pot with salted water. Add the leeks and potato, bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Plunge into the ice water with the other vegetables. Drain and dry all the vegetables.

4. Toss the blanched vegetables (including the corn) in a bowl with 1 tablespoon each of the remaining mint and basil, the cream, and the juice of half the lemon. Season with salt and pepper and toss well. Spread the vegetables in a 1-inch layer in a gratin dish. Toss the blanched vegetables (including the corn) in a bowl with 1 tablespoon each of the remaining mint and basil, the cream, and the juice of half the lemon. Season with salt and pepper and toss well. Spread the vegetables in a 1-inch layer in a gratin dish.

5. Preheat the oven to 350F. Preheat the oven to 350F.

6. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Toss with the bread crumbs and season with salt and pepper. Spread over the vegetables. Bake the gratin until the vegetables are tender and the cream is bubbling, about 10 minutes. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Toss with the bread crumbs and season with salt and pepper. Spread over the vegetables. Bake the gratin until the vegetables are tender and the cream is bubbling, about 10 minutes.

7. While the gratin is baking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets (the side that used to have the skin on it should be up) and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Cook them on one side only. Remove from the heat. While the gratin is baking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets (the side that used to have the skin on it should be up) and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Cook them on one side only. Remove from the heat.

8. As soon as the gratin finishes baking, set the salmon fillets, seared side up, on top of the gratin. Return to the oven until the fish is cooked to medium, another 10 minutes or so. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the fish and garnish with the mint sprigs. Serve immediately. As soon as the gratin finishes baking, set the salmon fillets, seared side up, on top of the gratin. Return to the oven until the fish is cooked to medium, another 10 minutes or so. Squeeze the remaining lemon half over the fish and garnish with the mint sprigs. Serve immediately.

Striped Ba.s.s with Fried Green Tomatoes and Figs I grew up with ”stipers” as grew up with ”stipers” as a summer staple, but overfis.h.i.+ng took it off the table for many years. The inviting pale rose-white color of the fillets seems to predict a delicate flavor, but the fish actually has a strong, meaty taste and a firm texture. In this recipe, the ba.s.s is seared in one pan and then finishes cooking in a second pan atop an aromatic bed of fried green tomatoes sweetened with a few fresh figs. If you have a presentable skillet or saute pan, the fish can brought directly to the table and served as a gorgeous one-pot dish. a summer staple, but overfis.h.i.+ng took it off the table for many years. The inviting pale rose-white color of the fillets seems to predict a delicate flavor, but the fish actually has a strong, meaty taste and a firm texture. In this recipe, the ba.s.s is seared in one pan and then finishes cooking in a second pan atop an aromatic bed of fried green tomatoes sweetened with a few fresh figs. If you have a presentable skillet or saute pan, the fish can brought directly to the table and served as a gorgeous one-pot dish.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

3 green tomatoes (4 to 5 ounces each), sliced inch thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup unbleached all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 ripe figs, cut in half lengthwise 1 large fennel bulb (about 6 ounces), trimmed of tough outer layers, cored, and chopped into -inch dice 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 teaspoon grated orange zest 16 basil leaves 4 striped ba.s.s fillets, about 1 inch thick, skin on cup white wine vinegar cup water 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1. Season the tomato slices on both sides with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the tomato slices and sear on both sides until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add the figs, cut side down, to the pan and sear, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter with the tomatoes and wipe out the pan. Season the tomato slices on both sides with salt and pepper. Dust with the flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the tomato slices and sear on both sides until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add the figs, cut side down, to the pan and sear, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter with the tomatoes and wipe out the pan.

2. Add 2 more tablespoons of the olive oil to the pan. Add the fennel, season with salt and pepper, and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, just a minute or two. Stir in the orange zest and basil leaves and remove the pan from the heat. Return the tomatoes and figs to the pan, laying them atop the fennel. Add 2 more tablespoons of the olive oil to the pan. Add the fennel, season with salt and pepper, and saute until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until aromatic, just a minute or two. Stir in the orange zest and basil leaves and remove the pan from the heat. Return the tomatoes and figs to the pan, laying them atop the fennel.

3. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a second large saute pan over medium-high heat. Season the ba.s.s with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot but not quite smoking, add the ba.s.s, skin side down, and sear until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the fish and cook for 1 minute on the second side. Transfer the ba.s.s to the first saute pan, laying the fillets skin side up atop the tomatoes and figs. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a second large saute pan over medium-high heat. Season the ba.s.s with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot but not quite smoking, add the ba.s.s, skin side down, and sear until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Flip the fish and cook for 1 minute on the second side. Transfer the ba.s.s to the first saute pan, laying the fillets skin side up atop the tomatoes and figs.

4. Pour the vinegar and water into the pan used for cooking the fish. As the liquid starts to boil, sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve the crispy bits. Pour this pan juice over the fish and vegetables. Pour the vinegar and water into the pan used for cooking the fish. As the liquid starts to boil, sc.r.a.pe the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to dissolve the crispy bits. Pour this pan juice over the fish and vegetables.

5. Cover and cook over low heat until the fish is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Transfer the dish to a warm platter or serve directly from the pan. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley just before serving. Cover and cook over low heat until the fish is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Transfer the dish to a warm platter or serve directly from the pan. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley just before serving.

Pan-Roasted Salmon with Warm Cuc.u.mber Salad Isn't it funny how ingredients come in and out of fas.h.i.+on? After receiving some smoked salt from Norway, come in and out of fas.h.i.+on? After receiving some smoked salt from Norway, I I wanted to develop a dish that was consistent with the salt's Scandinavian origins. My instincts led me straight to salmon and then to dill. From there it was an easy to step to cuc.u.mbers, fennel, mustard, and then creme fraiche. The effect reminds me of an old-fas.h.i.+oned Sunday dinner platter-seared salmon fillets accompanied by toast points and a creamy sauce. wanted to develop a dish that was consistent with the salt's Scandinavian origins. My instincts led me straight to salmon and then to dill. From there it was an easy to step to cuc.u.mbers, fennel, mustard, and then creme fraiche. The effect reminds me of an old-fas.h.i.+oned Sunday dinner platter-seared salmon fillets accompanied by toast points and a creamy sauce.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, plus 4 sprigs for garnish 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, skin on 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Smoked sea salt (available in specialty stores; or subst.i.tute regular sea salt) 1 small celery root, peeled and cut into -inch dice 1 small red onion, sliced inch thick Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cuc.u.mber, peeled, halved, seeded, and cut into -inch slices on the diagonal 2 slices dense pumpernickel bread 1 tablespoon unsalted b.u.t.ter firm red apple, skin on, cut into -inch dice cup creme fraiche 3 tablespoons spicy grainy mustard 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1. Mix the chopped dill, tarragon, and lemon zest together. Transfer half the herbs to a small bowl for use in the sauce, cover, and refrigerate. Toss the salmon fillets in the other half. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 24 hours. Mix the chopped dill, tarragon, and lemon zest together. Transfer half the herbs to a small bowl for use in the sauce, cover, and refrigerate. Toss the salmon fillets in the other half. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 24 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Preheat the oven to 400F.

3. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan over medium heat. Season the fillets with the sea salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the salmon skin side down to the pan and cook, on the one side only, until the skin is crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan over medium heat. Season the fillets with the sea salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the salmon skin side down to the pan and cook, on the one side only, until the skin is crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove the fish from the pan.

4. Add the celery root and onions to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes, or until just tender. Add the cuc.u.mber and toss well. Add the celery root and onions to the pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes, or until just tender. Add the cuc.u.mber and toss well.

5. Place the fish skin side up on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven for 7 minutes, or until the fish is cooked to medium. Place the fish skin side up on top of the vegetables and roast in the oven for 7 minutes, or until the fish is cooked to medium.

6. Meanwhile, toast and b.u.t.ter the pumpernickel slices. Trim the crusts, then cut each slice into 4 triangles. Meanwhile, toast and b.u.t.ter the pumpernickel slices. Trim the crusts, then cut each slice into 4 triangles.

7. Transfer the fish to a platter, skin side up. Off the heat, add the apple, creme fraiche, mustard, and the reserved herb mixture to the pan and mix in. Season with salt, pepper, and the lemon juice. Transfer the fish to a platter, skin side up. Off the heat, add the apple, creme fraiche, mustard, and the reserved herb mixture to the pan and mix in. Season with salt, pepper, and the lemon juice.

8. Spoon the salad and sauce next to-not over-the fish. Garnish with the toast points and dill sprigs, and serve. Spoon the salad and sauce next to-not over-the fish. Garnish with the toast points and dill sprigs, and serve.

Salmon with Walnuts and Dried Cranberries Dried cranberries and walnuts are a pair of obvious New England ingredients for an easy variation on seared salmon, and both go well with spinach. Red cranberries, orange salmon, green spinach, and a golden sauce make a seafood entree that looks festive, tastes great, and is easy and quick to prepare. a pair of obvious New England ingredients for an easy variation on seared salmon, and both go well with spinach. Red cranberries, orange salmon, green spinach, and a golden sauce make a seafood entree that looks festive, tastes great, and is easy and quick to prepare.

The dish is easily doubled, especially if you grill the salmon instead of sauteing it. Any leftovers translate into an instant lunch. The spinach is delicious cold, and the salmon can be sliced thin and drizzled with fresh lemon juice or given a completely different spin with a flavored mayonnaise (pages 13-14).

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted b.u.t.ter 1 shallot, minced cup dry white wine 2 tablespoons dried cranberries, soaked in cup freshly squeezed orange juice 2 tablespoons grated fresh horseradish, or 2 tablespoons bottled horseradish, drained 1 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Four 6-ounce salmon fillets, skin on 1 pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried 2 tablespoons chopped toasted walnuts 1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter with the shallots in a saucepan over medium heat and cook until the shallots are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the white wine and reduce to 2 tablespoons. Pour the orange juice from the cranberries into the saucepan (set the cranberries aside). Reduce the orange juice to just cup. Off the heat, whisk in the remaining 7 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, a tablespoon at a time. Add the horseradish and lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep in a warm spot, away from the direct heat-or the sauce will break. Heat 1 tablespoon of the b.u.t.ter with the shallots in a saucepan over medium heat and cook until the shallots are tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the white wine and reduce to 2 tablespoons. Pour the orange juice from the cranberries into the saucepan (set the cranberries aside). Reduce the orange juice to just cup. Off the heat, whisk in the remaining 7 tablespoons b.u.t.ter, a tablespoon at a time. Add the horseradish and lemon juice, then season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep in a warm spot, away from the direct heat-or the sauce will break.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large saute pan (nonstick if possible) over high heat. (Use two pans if all the fish won't fit comfortably in a single pan.) Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets, skin side up, and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Flip and cook on the other side. A 2-inch-thick fillet will take 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large saute pan (nonstick if possible) over high heat. (Use two pans if all the fish won't fit comfortably in a single pan.) Sprinkle the salmon liberally with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, almost smoking, add the salmon fillets, skin side up, and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Do not try to move the fillets until they've gotten a good sear, or they'll stick to the pan. Flip and cook on the other side. A 2-inch-thick fillet will take 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium.

3. While the salmon is cooking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing, until the spinach has just wilted, a minute or so. Add the walnuts and cranberries and cook for another 30 seconds to heat everything through. While the salmon is cooking, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large saute pan over high heat. Add the spinach, season with salt and pepper, and cook, tossing, until the spinach has just wilted, a minute or so. Add the walnuts and cranberries and cook for another 30 seconds to heat everything through.

4. Place a quarter of the spinach and cranberries in the center of each of four warm plates. Set the salmon skin side up over the spinach. Spoon the sauce around the plates. Serve immediately. Place a quarter of the spinach and cranberries in the center of each of four warm plates. Set the salmon skin side up over the spinach. Spoon the sauce around the plates. Serve immediately.

Sea Scallops with Cider Cream Simple ingredients exploited to maximum effect-that's the story behind this recipe. Hard cider combines with creme fraiche to pick up the sweetness of fresh scallops. The scallops rest on a bed of spinach and s.h.i.+take mushrooms, flavors from the opposite end of the taste spectrum, so that everyone's palate isn't exhausted from all of that creamy richness. The most challenging aspect of this recipe is to cook the scallops correctly. The key is to brown them quickly over high heat for just a couple of minutes without disturbing them, then turn them once to finish cooking on the other side. They should still be slightly translucent in the center. Don't shake them around while they're cooking, or they'll release their juices, a double whammy-they dry out and the juice in the pan prevents them from browning correctly. effect-that's the story behind this recipe. Hard cider combines with creme fraiche to pick up the sweetness of fresh scallops. The scallops rest on a bed of spinach and s.h.i.+take mushrooms, flavors from the opposite end of the taste spectrum, so that everyone's palate isn't exhausted from all of that creamy richness. The most challenging aspect of this recipe is to cook the scallops correctly. The key is to brown them quickly over high heat for just a couple of minutes without disturbing them, then turn them once to finish cooking on the other side. They should still be slightly translucent in the center. Don't shake them around while they're cooking, or they'll release their juices, a double whammy-they dry out and the juice in the pan prevents them from browning correctly.

MAKES 4 ENTReE SERVINGS.

1 cups hard cider cup creme fraiche Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper cup vegetable oil 1 pounds large fresh sea scallops, 1 to 1 inches across, tough muscles removed pound s.h.i.+take mushrooms, stems removed and thinly sliced 2 shallots, thinly sliced 1 pound flat-leaf spinach, trimmed of thick stems, washed, and dried cup chopped toasted hazelnuts 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 1. Bring the cider to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the cider has reduced to a glaze, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool. Bring the cider to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the cider has reduced to a glaze, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool.